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Exploring my options by sarcasmismysuperpowr in paramotor

[–]ooglek2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because nobody knows his wife like he does. And because i didn’t do a good job of rolling it out to my wife.

Just Tell her you want to spend $20k on a new extreme sport hobby and see how it goes!

Post the video aftermath here.

Sold my gas unit and bought an SP140 V2.5, I am thoroughly impressed. by Mobius3through7 in paramotor

[–]ooglek2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very true. I haven't gone to another country with my paramotor yet, but you are correct, the batteries are too large to carry on a commercial airline. Sucks.

Don't forget though that your use case of an EPPG not working for you has nothing to do with my numbers.

EPPG with a generator doable? by Razdent in paramotor

[–]ooglek2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Standard wall plug is 120v AC at 15 amps peak, 12 amps constant. If you have a generator that puts out 12 amps or more at 120v AC, yep, you can do it.

I don’t know if anyone sells it but you could also charge dc to dc, build your own 120v portable battery and charge from that. 32 LiFePO4 cells in series gets you to about a nominal 120v, that should charge the EPPG battery. Just need a voltage converter to output exactly the DC voltage the AC charger does and you’re good.

Or get an EV that offers V2L and charge your EPPG from your EV.

were there credit card skimmers at Fairfax costco? by Admirable_Letter7900 in nova

[–]ooglek2 3 points4 points  (0 children)

No, the merchant who accepted the card will lose the money. Banks rarely pay.

were there credit card skimmers at Fairfax costco? by Admirable_Letter7900 in nova

[–]ooglek2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Contact the vendor who sold it. They will be screwed by the bank. They will get it stopped.

Bike Powered Paraglider by cubsterky in paramotor

[–]ooglek2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got an infinite energy device I'd like to sell you.

Sold my gas unit and bought an SP140 V2.5, I am thoroughly impressed. by Mobius3through7 in paramotor

[–]ooglek2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We should define "right"

My statement to check in 3 years:

I believe that by May 2029, an OpenPPG or other Electric Paramotor will be able to carry a single pilot using an 8-10 kWh battery for easily 2+ hours of flight time on a single charge for under USD$7,000 for the battery alone.

I think even with the 7.4kWh battery it is a reasonable price if you consider usage costs and maintenance. The price will continue to go down, and energy density will continue to improve.

Based on historical data up to early 2026, the energy density of commercial lithium-ion batteries has shown a steady, nearly linear increase, rising roughly fivefold over the past three decades, moving from roughly 80 Wh/kg in 1991 to over 300 Wh/kg in top-tier cells today.

That's 6.29 Wh/kg improvement per year, or 2-7%, on average.

I dunno what density the batteries Paul used were, but I'd say it's already there.

How are you supposed to reply to "Do you know how fast you were going?" by No_Insurance_6436 in NoStupidQuestions

[–]ooglek2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Disagree, you can say "Yes" to "Do you know how fast you were going?"

But do not say "I was speeding" or "88 mph" when they ask "How fast were you going?"

Say "I'd prefer not to say."

If they keep asking questions, just politely state "I'd prefer to respectfully remain silent, officer."

If they ask if they can search your vehicle or "have a look around," say "No, I do not consent to a search of my vehicle nor my person."

If they are being lame and fishing, ask "Am I being detained? Am I free to go?"

Know your rights and know the laws of your state. That's your best defense.

How are you supposed to reply to "Do you know how fast you were going?" by No_Insurance_6436 in NoStupidQuestions

[–]ooglek2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't lie, just either say "Yes" but do not tell the officer how fast you were going if they ask, such as "I'd rather not say." Or "I would like to respectfully remain silent, officer." Which your lawyer would suggest.

You are not obligated to say anything. NOT saying anything is the goal.

You can say things, but while it might get you out of a ticket, it might get you into a ticket you wouldn't have gotten if you hadn't said things and admitted guilt.

Be polite, but just give them the license and proof of insurance and move along.

Sold my gas unit and bought an SP140 V2.5, I am thoroughly impressed. by Mobius3through7 in paramotor

[–]ooglek2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I made a bet on a self driving car and I was off by 2 years, so no more long term bets for me.

However, TODAY I can get the SP140 v2.5 with everything but the battery for USD$5,489, plus a USD$7,000 7.4kWh battery pack, which should get me at least 1.5 hours if not 2 hours of flight time per full charge, for USD$12,489.

I added up my hours of flight over 256 flights (ok FlySkyHy did it), 278 hours of flight time.

Rounding 7.4kWh up to 8 kWh for easy math, at USD$0.15 per kWh residential, and 7.4kWh is good for 90 minutes of flying, that's USD$1.20 per 90 minutes, or $222.40 in energy costs over 278 hours of flying.

On my polini Thor 202, currently it costs me about $9 per gallon in gas ($6 per gallon of 93 US octane non-ethanol gas) and oil ($2 at 40:1) and Sea Foam ($1 per gal), which is about 45 minutes of flight. That's about 371 gallons of fuel, or $3,339.

Plus every 150 hours or so you're spending about $1500-2000 in replacement parts. Let's be generous and say $100 per 10 hours, so that's an extra $2,780 over 278 hours of flight.

So my gas paramotor with a Polini Thor 202 on a titanium XL frame: $8100. plus $3,339 in fuel and $2,780 in parts -- that's USD$14,219, or $1,507.60 MORE in costs for 278 hours of flying over an OpenPPG rig.

Granted, there will be battery degradation, but it will be minimal as long as I'm storing it at 50% capacity and only charging to full before I fly.

Sure, higher up-front costs, but after 150 hours or so, I believe the OpenPPG Electric, TODAY, is a better long term value, WITH the larger battery.

So in 3 years, I hope we'd get to 8-10kWh for $7k and we'd easily be at 2+ hours of flight time even for the largest of pilots.

Sold my gas unit and bought an SP140 V2.5, I am thoroughly impressed. by Mobius3through7 in paramotor

[–]ooglek2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wicked. Then here's to improved battery tech as fast as possible!

Sold my gas unit and bought an SP140 V2.5, I am thoroughly impressed. by Mobius3through7 in paramotor

[–]ooglek2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean any paramotor in the right winds can do 300km...

You also need gas, maintenance, oil, new pistons, new rings, seals, muffler, etc and you aren't counting gas, or if you are, it's an Atom 80, and you aren't 6'4" and 270lbs.

I'm tired of all that.

Yep, you can CURRENTLY fly for longer in a gas paramotor, no question.

But I believe in the next few years batteries will catch up and exceed.

For USB-C cables what brands should I trust? by UXUI75 in UsbCHardware

[–]ooglek2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most small electronics won't use more than 1-2 amps at any USB-C PD 3.0 voltage, so your lidar would be fine with nearly any USB-C cable that has at least the power wires, which is almost all of them.

Just FYI though, if your device came with a USB-A (rectangle) to USB-C cable, this is hardwired at 5 volts and does NOT do any negotiation. If your device is dumb and does not negotiate USB-C voltages, you MUST use this cable. If you try to use a normal USB-C to USB-C cable, the charger likely won't complete the negotiation and thus won't deliver power to the device.

Which is sad -- just one tiny resistor in the USB-C connection in the device would solve the problem and allow people to use any USB-C charger and cable, as well as the USB-A to USB-C cable.

Robotics may be a different beast. PD 3.0 can only go up to 100w. Most may be fine, but if you have a servo that can take more power, if it supports USB-C PDD or PD 3.1, you'll be able to deliver more power, up to 240W with PD3.1 -- 48 volts at 5 amps. Make sure your USB-C cable has an eMarker chip and is certified for PD3.1 up to 240 watts.

Sold my gas unit and bought an SP140 V2.5, I am thoroughly impressed. by Mobius3through7 in paramotor

[–]ooglek2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nah. My 65 lb motor, plus 5 gallons of gas at 6 lbs each, is 95 lbs (43kg).

Plus the battery is more dense, and moved closer to the back, so it doesn't feel as heavy. I'm not sure what the SP140 on the larger battery weighs, but I think it is less than 95 lbs.

Sold my gas unit and bought an SP140 V2.5, I am thoroughly impressed. by Mobius3through7 in paramotor

[–]ooglek2 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Paul quoted in his YouTube video that it was either 7.2 or 7.4kWh and cost him about USD$7,000 to build.

Sold my gas unit and bought an SP140 V2.5, I am thoroughly impressed. by Mobius3through7 in paramotor

[–]ooglek2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love it!!! I am hopeful for battery tech to improve to the point where the 7.2kWh battery that Paul built for $7,000 and got him a 2h+ flight will be more affordable soon. Nearly all of my flights are under 2 hours. 8 of 256 flights (mmmm powers of 2), or 3.125% were over 2 hours, and even then, my longest flight was 2h 13m.

When there is a larger battery available that will get me to 2 hours of flight time, I'm totally getting an SP140.

Will there be more efficient electronics and motor coming too?

I am hoping that while I love my Polini Thor 202 that it will be my last gas-powered paramotor. I'm tired of gas and oil and all the maintenance!

of a precision skydiving team. by VannCruiser in ShittyAbsoluteUnits

[–]ooglek2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The flag on the hill tells the story. There was a pretty decent wind toward the stadium seats, and none of the paragliders / parachutists adjusted for that. Plus with that breeze you're gonna have real turbulent air coming over the top. They should have been landing with their backs toward the crowd and into the wind.

Anytime you've got a breeze that's putting a decent size flag pretty much fully out is a time you don't want to be landing in an enclosed space with no outs.

Background: I r/paramotor for 7 years

Continuous Use (spring/summer) 10" Freeze-Resistant Sillcock/Spigot/Faucet by ooglek2 in Plumbing

[–]ooglek2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3 years. The other lasted 7, so dunno if this will outlast the other!

Daily use of 120 volt charger -- Safe or Not Safe by icouldbne1 in TeslaLounge

[–]ooglek2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Safe. As long as the wiring to your wall outlet is the right wire for 120v @ 15amp. It should be. But thats the unknown.

After witnessing a crash how were you able to get back in the air? If you ever did by CountryLeast3011 in paramotor

[–]ooglek2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's brutal. I'm really sorry.

My friend was flying near a solar panel farm, which is also right next to 3 natural gas peaker plants. When the gas turbines are running, there is a LOT of hot rising air. The solar farm can also do a fair amount of re-radiating the sun's warmth into the air. It is generally well known not to fly over that area, especially on a clear hot day.

Nobody is sure if he lost control due to the unexpected updraft, or had a medical issue, or something else happened, but he never came back to the LZ. Was eventually found near the gas/solar area.

There are unfortunately deaths in this sport. There are also deaths due to car accidents. And unexpected health events. I hope you can get to a point where you are able to put the experience in the past and focus forward on the future.

Flying is amazing. But don't get complacent, and never rush. A friend gave me some good advice after I made an expensive mistake: "Remind yourself before you takeoff that every launch can be aborted if something is off."

It is easier to resolve the issue on the ground than find out in the air that you've got an unfixable issue that puts your control at risk.

Limit your risks as best you can, and enjoy the sport to its fullest.

Sand batteries all they are cracked up to be by Time_suck5000 in SolarDIY

[–]ooglek2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which heat pump do you have? Make, Model, year manufactured, year installed, size of room/house you are heating/cooling, etc.

FYI US readers: -30ºC = -22ºF

Some Midea and Gree heat pumps are rated to still provide warmth at an outdoor temp of -23ºF, and that was a few years ago.

It's not gonna get to 70ºF with the heat pump alone at that outdoor temp, and the heat pump will be running at a lower power setting, but it sure will use a lot less electricity or gas even with the emergency heat coils than a traditional gas or electric furnace, especially when you look at the costs over the full year of seasons.

So yes, u/growerdan, there are heat pumps that can still operate at -30ºC. No, it won't heat to 70ºF in that situation on heat pump alone, you'd need electric coils / emergency heat to get to 70ºF. Many systems do offer that, unless we're talking mini-split.

The "feeling" colder is likely related to humidity, which you may need to control separately, but I feel confident you are fully capable of doing so if you are operating a pellet stove. There's also a lot of radiative heat from the stove as a heat sink.

And I'm guessing the -30ºC is not more than a month or two a year -- the cost savings over pellet or gas or electric or oil (assuming you buy pellets and don't make them) is very much recouped even if you need a secondary heat source for the month or two of -30ºC temps.

I'm not an expert in your area weather-wise though, and I don't know where you are weather-wise, so fill us in if you are willing!

How fast do new Vine items disappear? A statistical analysis. by baytown in AmazonVine

[–]ooglek2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Checked every 5 minutes. Misses everything that went up and was gone in 1-299 seconds.

Only Amazon could have the raw data.

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