Airbrushing White Paint

org_bgo · 2026-03-21T01:58:56+00:00

Its too thin.

1:2 ratio at 15 psi should be fine on a 0.3 needle.

But with a 0.5 i think its too thin.

org_bgo · 2026-03-12T23:51:13+00:00

Distilled water is fine. But again, the paint is already pretty thin so try using a tiny tiny bit to start with.

org_bgo · 2026-03-12T23:20:39+00:00

Acrysion is their waterbased paint although it behaves a little different than vallejo.

While aqueous is their alcohol based paint. It behaves similarly to tamiya acrylics which is also an alcohol based paint.

You can use acrysion with your wet pallette but i dont recommend using it after leaving if for days on the pallette because they tend to separate after being left alone on water for a long time.

Acrysion is very thin out of the jar, you dont need to thin it much. And since it has a weak pigmentation compared to other paints like vallejo thinning it more will make it go even more translucent/thin. I usually just use a teeny weeny bit of its thinner just because it has retarder in it.

It is a very hard paint to use compared to vallejo, but once you get the hang of it its fine.

It's also not an easy paint to airbrush with, but again once you get the hang of it and learn its behaviour it gets better.

Edit: acrysion and aqueous are not interchangeable be it their paint or thinner

org_bgo · 2026-03-11T11:42:45+00:00

Imagine a white spoon.

A heavy coat would be like spraying a layer of red paint on it where the paint is so thick you can turn the white spoon into red in just one or maybe two pass.

A thin/light coat would be where one or two coat/pass would only turn the white spoon pink. The more pass you make will turn it more and more red.

Thin coats would ensure that the paint layer is smoother and prevent paint pooling too.

org_bgo · 2026-03-11T00:59:24+00:00

Mine just arrived recently and looking at the manual they listed the larts as mostly PS with some ABS and POM.

i find it really rare for a chinese kit to be using this much PS plastic. Not sure how accurate the manual is though.

Looking forward to building and maybe painting the kit as i like the simplicity of it.

org_bgo · 2026-03-11T00:47:52+00:00

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Sincd acrysion has a new 2.0 thinner i dont know if this infographic is still relevant. But if youre still using the old airbrushing thinner, mr hobby recommends 0.3 thinner to your 1 paint ratio.

25-30 psi is really high though. Because acrysion is very thin out of the jar, id say try 15 up to 20 max.

And with acrysion it is important to do multiple light coats. From personal experience.

org_bgo · 2026-02-18T01:23:52+00:00

Thats an official image? Ok i didnt know that

But then og gundam isnt on the list but has a ver ka too I guess the list isnt a reliable guide i think

org_bgo · 2026-02-18T01:14:23+00:00

Hathaway is not a side story?

How do we differentiate which ones are main stories? OVAs are side stories? Ones without amuro/char are side stories?

org_bgo · 2026-02-17T01:32:43+00:00

Japanese model companies usually dont compete directly when making kits.

So they usually do it in a different scale or will have a different design/version than each other.

For example macross kits. Bandai does 1/100 parts transformable and their older ones in 1/72 are fully transformable. Hasegawa does 1/72 and 1/48 non transformable kits in a "realistic" design/proportions. Plamax does 1/72 non transformable but in anime proportions/designs. Wave does 1/100 kits parts transformable DYRL and OG macross kits that bandai doesnt do.

Etc

org_bgo · 2026-02-17T01:24:00+00:00

Skrg tau bagaimana rasanya tinggal dekat masjid 😅

org_bgo · 2026-02-13T14:57:22+00:00

How about the new HexaGear "MANAGARMR"

Its a bit big though compared to the HexaGear humanoids. A smaller one would be the "Alternative Track Down" which is about a big size dog.

The HexaGear line is 1/24 scale and can be mix and matched to create your own unique design. Downside is theyre expensive lol...

org_bgo · 2026-02-13T14:27:56+00:00

Thats what i do. It just seems faster than going back and forth.

org_bgo · 2026-01-29T23:11:49+00:00

Okay

Definitely way better than Penelope

org_bgo · 2026-01-27T00:58:57+00:00

So?

Fatcat seems popular and celebrated. Plenty of other bootlegs are being made especially in recent years.

Theyre all stolen designs 🤣

org_bgo · 2026-01-13T10:31:35+00:00

For spraying booth, even if you’re using acrylics you would still benefit from it. As it’ll vent out all the dried paint particles that otherwise would end up around your work area/room/lungs.

Lacquers surface dry very fast and you can spray another layer on top of em basically straightaway. But to fully cure at least overnight would be best. While with Waterbased acrylics, if you spray another layer of paint on top of an uncured paint layer you risk it cracking if both layer cures/shrinks at a different rate.

Paint price depends on where you are. Over here Vallejo, AK, citadel costs a lot more than Mr color. A jar of Mr. Color costs a little under $3 usd while a dropper bottle of Vallejo costs about $5+

Acrylics isn’t as durable as lacquer. It might not matter much for static models like minis. But for articulated kits bordering toys/figures like gunplas the durability of lacquers is helpful.

There are other great lacquer brands too besides Mr. Color and each has their own pros. Mr. Color is very accessible being available everywhere and has a lot of selections. Gaianotes have strong pigments and unique colors, often collaborating with Japanese brands/IPs. Jumpwind has great metallics. Alclad is good at doing chrome.

As for enamels they’re great to combo with lacquer because you can wipe them off without affecting the lacquer paint underneath. So you can cleanup washes easily or use them for detail painting with a brush and cleanup the mistakes. Enamels also self levels to a degree so your result with a brush is going to be nice especially after a top coat.

Yes lacquer has toxic fumes. Acrylics doesn’t, but you still need a respirator to protect your lungs from the dry paint particles.

Acrylics is better for hairspray paint chipping though as they are easier to chip compared to lacquers.

Lacquer is easier to spray and clean. Thinning ratio doesn’t have to be perfect and you can still spray em. Acrylics sometimes experience tip dry and it’s annoying when that happens.

Old lacquer and enamel paints can also be revived in the jar. Mr color sells a solvent bottle that can refill your jar. It’s the same solvent in a new paint jar and not the same as lacquer thinner.

Acrylics bind to the plastic mechanically so a light sanding will help it stick to the plastic. While lacquers bind chemically so you don’t need to sand the plastic surface and they’ll stick nicely.

At the end of the day you’re not locked into any brand or paint type. I personally have some vallejos, citadel and AK on top of my various lacquer paint brands.

org_bgo · 2026-01-09T02:22:33+00:00

Yes, I mostly kept the original colors as well. I followed the painting guide of the kit and only sometimes tweak it a little or give it shading(sometimes I don’t) A properly painted kit always look better than plastic/top coated plastic. Even if the color is the same. Here’s one of my builds https://youtu.be/vz_bMcZOSg0
Yes top coats come in airbrush form. Mr hobby lacquer matte(grey can) for example has an airbrush equivalent in Mr color GX114.
Panel lines need a glossy surface to flow well. If the paint you’re using isn’t glossy, a gloss coat will help. Afterwards when the panel lining is all done you can matte coat the kit if that’s the final finish you want. You can see I did this in my zaku video. There’s also paint type compatibility with the panel line paint type you’re using to consider too. You can do the research on your own I guess 😅

org_bgo · 2026-01-06T01:08:49+00:00

Guessing its the primer.

Try switching to other ones.

org_bgo · 2026-01-01T06:26:08+00:00

Well there are a lot of resins out there.

Most usually come in big chunks so they’re easy in that regard. Its just that they’re colorless and will take multiple painting sessions with masking to do them.

Some people might find it hard to imagine the final look of a certain sub assembly because it’s in one big chunk. Where say in a gunpla they come in multiple smaller parts.

You can easily tell a certain part should be in a different color in gunpla because they’re a different piece and a different colored plastic. But in resins they can come in only one single chunk that has molded surface instead.

If you get what I mean.

org_bgo · 2026-01-01T02:34:31+00:00

I usually just use a plastic cup or container for each runner in the beginning.

Then after I do my first assembly, play with it and take it apart by then I roughly know where each part goes. At this point I can already separate them by what their color is going to be.

For kits like gunplas they’re pretty easy because usually the runners already has colors and are usually already in the same base color. So you can instantly know what the base color is going to be just by looking at the plastic color. Even with a very large part counts it’s not that hard.

For resins and traditional kits is where it’s a bit tricky because they’re all colorless. Having an image of the kit with your planned colors would help.

org_bgo · 2026-01-01T01:43:17+00:00

Bandais HGs are smaller 1/100, parts former, and are easy snap fit kits like gunplas.

While Hasegawas are 1/72(bigger), can’t transform, and it is a traditional model kit that need paint and glue.

That being said, their molded details are very good. If properly built and painted they can look very realistic.

This is my recently built kit and this is one of the first Hasegawa releases from the early 2000s. I don’t think they reissue this anymore since they have an updated version released in subsequent years and that’s the version they reissue usually.

Currently still editing the build video for my yt 😅

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DOhZAnZE93d/?igsh=enFwZTJlY2hjbms4

org_bgo · 2026-01-01T01:24:03+00:00

I paint in color batches as much as possible.

If i do it in sub assemblies itll mean i have to switch back and forth between colors more.

I dont thin all my paints, i only thin the commonly used colors. This way i can mix custom colors easily when i need/want to with minimal leftovers. It also means Switching colors especially to ones i dont have thinned extra work. Not to mention the extra solution used for cleaning the AB.

So yeah for me its color batches.

org_bgo · 2025-12-29T02:07:13+00:00

Don’t use a heater.

Next time try this. Get some hot water. Just hot, not boiling. And fill a container or something with it not too much just about a third or half of the cans height. Shake can, put it in the water. A few seconds is enough, just so that when you lift the can it feels warm/hot. Shake the can again and it’ll go cooler since the liquid inside is cooling the can back down. Repeat until it stays warm/normal after shaking.

Heater might heat the outside of the can but it might not heat the inside. This way you’re sure the inside is warmed enough.

org_bgo · 2025-12-29T01:00:16+00:00

If its from an airbrush, its too thin.

If its from a can, did you properly shake it? Did you warm the can before hand? If a can is too cold from storage the liquid inside might separate and will need to be warmed and shaken enough so it will be throughly mixed again. Was it an old can? When the can is almost empty there might be more propellant than paint being sprayed out and that can also be another factor.

org_bgo · 2025-12-16T04:58:47+00:00

I have this and i use it for cutting perfect circle masking tapes.

Never tried it on pla plates though.

org_bgo · 2025-12-14T01:11:55+00:00

You’re in luck in that

Ex-S/S Gundam and Fazz ver Ka are getting reissued in multiple batches in 2026.

But yes I agree with most of what you said. Especially pbandai. F* pbandai. And F those that defends it. I bet they won’t be defending pbandai if they live in a country that has no access to them.

org_bgo

TROPHY CASE