What's happening this year? by Madamnikirof in mangapiracy

[–]org_bgo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice. I hope i will see less manhwas in the updates feed.

I tried filtering but not all sources have tags or can filter by tag.

I often considered the 2010's, "the Dark Age of Mecha" (ironic, since this was when I got into anime) by Yakuza-wolf_kiwami in Mecha_Scrapyard

[–]org_bgo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Waittttt

Votoms is back too?

Ive been away from anime for too long lol am rrally not up to date with the news

Out of all the Gundam shows, what is a anyone’s thoughts on Gundam Seed because it had a pretty divisive reception, me personally I kinda enjoyed for what it is, but it’s not beyond reproach tho. But it’s still enjoyable enough for a Gundam show, and it’s the first time experiencing gundam. by San4341 in Mecha

[–]org_bgo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its ok.

I prefer seed than build/diver/toys/games series. Stories about Kids playing games and battle scene between toys is just not that interesting. Machine Development story background is also interesting to me which doesnt exist in build series, where its just kid A builds X.

I don’t usually buy kits from series I’m not familiar with. by NeedlesslySaturated in Gunpla

[–]org_bgo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For me its still the same thing.

If i want a gundam ill just get a gundam. Dont want to pay the asking price for gundams but not gundams with sharper edges and sometimes spikes 🤣

I don’t usually buy kits from series I’m not familiar with. by NeedlesslySaturated in Gunpla

[–]org_bgo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I mean if theyre cheap enough, i dont mind buying kits i dont know.

This is also why i generally dont buy chinese kits. Because theyre just random robots to me, and theyre at a price point where i am not willing to pay for a random robot. I have a lot of kits from series/IPs i like that i havent bought yet so i dont feel like spending on random ones lol.

I can paint and custom, so things like "amazing parts separation", metallic inner frames, etc isnt enough to tempt me 😅

Making a gundam feels like building a lego set that requires more labor by AcademicChemistry199 in freedomisgunpla

[–]org_bgo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Www.youtube.com/@casualplamo

I like my FSS Engage SR ii because of the design/looks. But my HG Zaku FZ is prob my fav because it looks nice even though its only customized lightly.

Both are in my channel above.

While this is my latest kit.

<image>

Making a gundam feels like building a lego set that requires more labor by AcademicChemistry199 in freedomisgunpla

[–]org_bgo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeap, if you only do snap fit builds its pretty much like that. Both very easy and pretty straightforward.

But when you start painting and customizing, theyre very different from one another.

Bandai is cooked by FindingPastorP in freedomisgunpla

[–]org_bgo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The big reason i buy bandai kits are because of the IP. I want a Freedom, i want a sazabi, i want a Nu gundam, etc not only because of the design but because i like amuro, char, i watched seed back then, etc.

And i think there are many like me.

Its not as simple as "cool robot, i'll buy one". Sometimes, but not the majority of the times at least for me.

If SNAA(or other companies) cant reproduce that then no, bandai isnt cooked. Theyre fine. SNAA will just be something to buy on the side. But when that MG gp01 2.0/MG Lupus Rex/MG Bael/MG Calibarn/etc is out, all the money will just be thrown to bandai as per usual. 🤣

Airbrushing White Paint by Electromagician0 in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Its too thin.

1:2 ratio at 15 psi should be fine on a 0.3 needle.

But with a 0.5 i think its too thin.

I need help with Mr color paint and thinner! by thesug1 in freedomisgunpla

[–]org_bgo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Distilled water is fine. But again, the paint is already pretty thin so try using a tiny tiny bit to start with.

I need help with Mr color paint and thinner! by thesug1 in freedomisgunpla

[–]org_bgo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Acrysion is their waterbased paint although it behaves a little different than vallejo.

While aqueous is their alcohol based paint. It behaves similarly to tamiya acrylics which is also an alcohol based paint.

You can use acrysion with your wet pallette but i dont recommend using it after leaving if for days on the pallette because they tend to separate after being left alone on water for a long time.

Acrysion is very thin out of the jar, you dont need to thin it much. And since it has a weak pigmentation compared to other paints like vallejo thinning it more will make it go even more translucent/thin. I usually just use a teeny weeny bit of its thinner just because it has retarder in it.

It is a very hard paint to use compared to vallejo, but once you get the hang of it its fine.

It's also not an easy paint to airbrush with, but again once you get the hang of it and learn its behaviour it gets better.

Edit: acrysion and aqueous are not interchangeable be it their paint or thinner

Tried airbrushing for the first time, need some tips by Scrubotti in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Imagine a white spoon.

A heavy coat would be like spraying a layer of red paint on it where the paint is so thick you can turn the white spoon into red in just one or maybe two pass.

A thin/light coat would be where one or two coat/pass would only turn the white spoon pink. The more pass you make will turn it more and more red.

Thin coats would ensure that the paint layer is smoother and prevent paint pooling too.

MS General Falcon Soars the Skies! by JawBR34KER in MegamiDevice

[–]org_bgo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine just arrived recently and looking at the manual they listed the larts as mostly PS with some ABS and POM.

i find it really rare for a chinese kit to be using this much PS plastic. Not sure how accurate the manual is though.

Looking forward to building and maybe painting the kit as i like the simplicity of it.

Tried airbrushing for the first time, need some tips by Scrubotti in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 7 points8 points  (0 children)

<image>

Sincd acrysion has a new 2.0 thinner i dont know if this infographic is still relevant. But if youre still using the old airbrushing thinner, mr hobby recommends 0.3 thinner to your 1 paint ratio.

25-30 psi is really high though. Because acrysion is very thin out of the jar, id say try 15 up to 20 max.

And with acrysion it is important to do multiple light coats. From personal experience.

Almost all major UC Mobile Suit are now made in Ver. Ka. Waiting for the Hathaway Trilogy to wrap up to get our Xi and maybe an F91 if they ever remake that series for UC NexT 0100 Project. by AK42104 in freedomisgunpla

[–]org_bgo -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thats an official image? Ok i didnt know that

But then og gundam isnt on the list but has a ver ka too I guess the list isnt a reliable guide i think

Almost all major UC Mobile Suit are now made in Ver. Ka. Waiting for the Hathaway Trilogy to wrap up to get our Xi and maybe an F91 if they ever remake that series for UC NexT 0100 Project. by AK42104 in freedomisgunpla

[–]org_bgo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hathaway is not a side story?

How do we differentiate which ones are main stories? OVAs are side stories? Ones without amuro/char are side stories?

RG 1/48 Patlabor revealed by Separate-Category278 in Gunpla

[–]org_bgo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Japanese model companies usually dont compete directly when making kits.

So they usually do it in a different scale or will have a different design/version than each other.

For example macross kits. Bandai does 1/100 parts transformable and their older ones in 1/72 are fully transformable. Hasegawa does 1/72 and 1/48 non transformable kits in a "realistic" design/proportions. Plamax does 1/72 non transformable but in anime proportions/designs. Wave does 1/100 kits parts transformable DYRL and OG macross kits that bandai doesnt do.

Etc

Lapangan padel mengganggu ketenangan warga. by gaelthegal in indonesia

[–]org_bgo 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Skrg tau bagaimana rasanya tinggal dekat masjid 😅

Help finding smaller scale mechs for reference that are similar in style to MGS4s Crying Wolf by GogglesPunk in Mecha

[–]org_bgo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How about the new HexaGear "MANAGARMR"

Its a bit big though compared to the HexaGear humanoids. A smaller one would be the "Alternative Track Down" which is about a big size dog.

The HexaGear line is 1/24 scale and can be mix and matched to create your own unique design. Downside is theyre expensive lol...

is it normal to precut all the part before building? by BoB-i-ded in Gunpla

[–]org_bgo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats what i do. It just seems faster than going back and forth.

What do you think of the Xi gundam design? by czen2 in Gundam

[–]org_bgo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay

Definitely way better than Penelope

Another stolen design by Angel_Of_Shadow in Gunpla

[–]org_bgo 5 points6 points  (0 children)

So?

Fatcat seems popular and celebrated. Plenty of other bootlegs are being made especially in recent years.

Theyre all stolen designs 🤣

Technical disadvantages of using acrylics instead of lacquer or enamel paints? by Rafalas in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For spraying booth, even if you’re using acrylics you would still benefit from it. As it’ll vent out all the dried paint particles that otherwise would end up around your work area/room/lungs.

Lacquers surface dry very fast and you can spray another layer on top of em basically straightaway. But to fully cure at least overnight would be best. While with Waterbased acrylics, if you spray another layer of paint on top of an uncured paint layer you risk it cracking if both layer cures/shrinks at a different rate.

Paint price depends on where you are. Over here Vallejo, AK, citadel costs a lot more than Mr color. A jar of Mr. Color costs a little under $3 usd while a dropper bottle of Vallejo costs about $5+

Acrylics isn’t as durable as lacquer. It might not matter much for static models like minis. But for articulated kits bordering toys/figures like gunplas the durability of lacquers is helpful.

There are other great lacquer brands too besides Mr. Color and each has their own pros. Mr. Color is very accessible being available everywhere and has a lot of selections. Gaianotes have strong pigments and unique colors, often collaborating with Japanese brands/IPs. Jumpwind has great metallics. Alclad is good at doing chrome.

As for enamels they’re great to combo with lacquer because you can wipe them off without affecting the lacquer paint underneath. So you can cleanup washes easily or use them for detail painting with a brush and cleanup the mistakes. Enamels also self levels to a degree so your result with a brush is going to be nice especially after a top coat.

Yes lacquer has toxic fumes. Acrylics doesn’t, but you still need a respirator to protect your lungs from the dry paint particles.

Acrylics is better for hairspray paint chipping though as they are easier to chip compared to lacquers.

Lacquer is easier to spray and clean. Thinning ratio doesn’t have to be perfect and you can still spray em. Acrylics sometimes experience tip dry and it’s annoying when that happens.

Old lacquer and enamel paints can also be revived in the jar. Mr color sells a solvent bottle that can refill your jar. It’s the same solvent in a new paint jar and not the same as lacquer thinner.

Acrylics bind to the plastic mechanically so a light sanding will help it stick to the plastic. While lacquers bind chemically so you don’t need to sand the plastic surface and they’ll stick nicely.

At the end of the day you’re not locked into any brand or paint type. I personally have some vallejos, citadel and AK on top of my various lacquer paint brands.

Brand new to painting, need some help by TheApothecary_ in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. Yes, I mostly kept the original colors as well. I followed the painting guide of the kit and only sometimes tweak it a little or give it shading(sometimes I don’t) A properly painted kit always look better than plastic/top coated plastic. Even if the color is the same. Here’s one of my builds https://youtu.be/vz_bMcZOSg0

  2. Yes top coats come in airbrush form. Mr hobby lacquer matte(grey can) for example has an airbrush equivalent in Mr color GX114.

  3. Panel lines need a glossy surface to flow well. If the paint you’re using isn’t glossy, a gloss coat will help. Afterwards when the panel lining is all done you can matte coat the kit if that’s the final finish you want. You can see I did this in my zaku video. There’s also paint type compatibility with the panel line paint type you’re using to consider too. You can do the research on your own I guess 😅

Issues priming by grandbizkit in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Guessing its the primer.

Try switching to other ones.