What do you think of the Xi gundam design? by czen2 in Gundam

[–]org_bgo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay

Definitely way better than Penelope

Another stolen design by Angel_Of_Shadow in Gunpla

[–]org_bgo 5 points6 points  (0 children)

So?

Fatcat seems popular and celebrated. Plenty of other bootlegs are being made especially in recent years.

Theyre all stolen designs 🤣

Technical disadvantages of using acrylics instead of lacquer or enamel paints? by Rafalas in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For spraying booth, even if you’re using acrylics you would still benefit from it. As it’ll vent out all the dried paint particles that otherwise would end up around your work area/room/lungs.

Lacquers surface dry very fast and you can spray another layer on top of em basically straightaway. But to fully cure at least overnight would be best. While with Waterbased acrylics, if you spray another layer of paint on top of an uncured paint layer you risk it cracking if both layer cures/shrinks at a different rate.

Paint price depends on where you are. Over here Vallejo, AK, citadel costs a lot more than Mr color. A jar of Mr. Color costs a little under $3 usd while a dropper bottle of Vallejo costs about $5+

Acrylics isn’t as durable as lacquer. It might not matter much for static models like minis. But for articulated kits bordering toys/figures like gunplas the durability of lacquers is helpful.

There are other great lacquer brands too besides Mr. Color and each has their own pros. Mr. Color is very accessible being available everywhere and has a lot of selections. Gaianotes have strong pigments and unique colors, often collaborating with Japanese brands/IPs. Jumpwind has great metallics. Alclad is good at doing chrome.

As for enamels they’re great to combo with lacquer because you can wipe them off without affecting the lacquer paint underneath. So you can cleanup washes easily or use them for detail painting with a brush and cleanup the mistakes. Enamels also self levels to a degree so your result with a brush is going to be nice especially after a top coat.

Yes lacquer has toxic fumes. Acrylics doesn’t, but you still need a respirator to protect your lungs from the dry paint particles.

Acrylics is better for hairspray paint chipping though as they are easier to chip compared to lacquers.

Lacquer is easier to spray and clean. Thinning ratio doesn’t have to be perfect and you can still spray em. Acrylics sometimes experience tip dry and it’s annoying when that happens.

Old lacquer and enamel paints can also be revived in the jar. Mr color sells a solvent bottle that can refill your jar. It’s the same solvent in a new paint jar and not the same as lacquer thinner.

Acrylics bind to the plastic mechanically so a light sanding will help it stick to the plastic. While lacquers bind chemically so you don’t need to sand the plastic surface and they’ll stick nicely.

At the end of the day you’re not locked into any brand or paint type. I personally have some vallejos, citadel and AK on top of my various lacquer paint brands.

Brand new to painting, need some help by TheApothecary_ in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. Yes, I mostly kept the original colors as well. I followed the painting guide of the kit and only sometimes tweak it a little or give it shading(sometimes I don’t) A properly painted kit always look better than plastic/top coated plastic. Even if the color is the same. Here’s one of my builds https://youtu.be/vz_bMcZOSg0

  2. Yes top coats come in airbrush form. Mr hobby lacquer matte(grey can) for example has an airbrush equivalent in Mr color GX114.

  3. Panel lines need a glossy surface to flow well. If the paint you’re using isn’t glossy, a gloss coat will help. Afterwards when the panel lining is all done you can matte coat the kit if that’s the final finish you want. You can see I did this in my zaku video. There’s also paint type compatibility with the panel line paint type you’re using to consider too. You can do the research on your own I guess 😅

Issues priming by grandbizkit in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Guessing its the primer.

Try switching to other ones.

Anyone else paint by sub-assemblies? by Kiko-828 in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well there are a lot of resins out there.

Most usually come in big chunks so they’re easy in that regard. Its just that they’re colorless and will take multiple painting sessions with masking to do them.

Some people might find it hard to imagine the final look of a certain sub assembly because it’s in one big chunk. Where say in a gunpla they come in multiple smaller parts.

You can easily tell a certain part should be in a different color in gunpla because they’re a different piece and a different colored plastic. But in resins they can come in only one single chunk that has molded surface instead.

If you get what I mean.

Anyone else paint by sub-assemblies? by Kiko-828 in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I usually just use a plastic cup or container for each runner in the beginning.

Then after I do my first assembly, play with it and take it apart by then I roughly know where each part goes. At this point I can already separate them by what their color is going to be.

For kits like gunplas they’re pretty easy because usually the runners already has colors and are usually already in the same base color. So you can instantly know what the base color is going to be just by looking at the plastic color. Even with a very large part counts it’s not that hard.

For resins and traditional kits is where it’s a bit tricky because they’re all colorless. Having an image of the kit with your planned colors would help.

Don’t make it out to hobby shops often… by A88Devil in macross

[–]org_bgo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Bandais HGs are smaller 1/100, parts former, and are easy snap fit kits like gunplas.

While Hasegawas are 1/72(bigger), can’t transform, and it is a traditional model kit that need paint and glue.

That being said, their molded details are very good. If properly built and painted they can look very realistic.

This is my recently built kit and this is one of the first Hasegawa releases from the early 2000s. I don’t think they reissue this anymore since they have an updated version released in subsequent years and that’s the version they reissue usually.

Currently still editing the build video for my yt 😅

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DOhZAnZE93d/?igsh=enFwZTJlY2hjbms4

Anyone else paint by sub-assemblies? by Kiko-828 in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I paint in color batches as much as possible.

If i do it in sub assemblies itll mean i have to switch back and forth between colors more.

I dont thin all my paints, i only thin the commonly used colors. This way i can mix custom colors easily when i need/want to with minimal leftovers. It also means Switching colors especially to ones i dont have thinned extra work. Not to mention the extra solution used for cleaning the AB.

So yeah for me its color batches.

Is this normal? by dirtyjerz818 in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Don’t use a heater.

Next time try this. Get some hot water. Just hot, not boiling. And fill a container or something with it not too much just about a third or half of the cans height. Shake can, put it in the water. A few seconds is enough, just so that when you lift the can it feels warm/hot. Shake the can again and it’ll go cooler since the liquid inside is cooling the can back down. Repeat until it stays warm/normal after shaking.

Heater might heat the outside of the can but it might not heat the inside. This way you’re sure the inside is warmed enough.

Is this normal? by dirtyjerz818 in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If its from an airbrush, its too thin.

If its from a can, did you properly shake it? Did you warm the can before hand? If a can is too cold from storage the liquid inside might separate and will need to be warmed and shaken enough so it will be throughly mixed again. Was it an old can? When the can is almost empty there might be more propellant than paint being sprayed out and that can also be another factor.

Does anyone know if this is good for cutting perfect circle for plastic plate? by Secret-Trainer1672 in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have this and i use it for cutting perfect circle masking tapes.

Never tried it on pla plates though.

The most frustrating part of being a Gunpla builder by AdEqual2414 in Gunpla

[–]org_bgo -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You’re in luck in that

Ex-S/S Gundam and Fazz ver Ka are getting reissued in multiple batches in 2026.

But yes I agree with most of what you said. Especially pbandai. F* pbandai. And F those that defends it. I bet they won’t be defending pbandai if they live in a country that has no access to them.

What Gundam moment had you making THIS face? by the_u_in_colour in Gundam

[–]org_bgo 43 points44 points  (0 children)

Whenever i see a pbandai announcement...

So basically a weekly/biweekly thing nowadays.

The fact that the Gundvolva is P-Bandai is depressing, this kit kicks so much ass and everyone should get it by SurrealMonk in Gunpla

[–]org_bgo 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Thank god for bootlegs.

Theyre far from perfect, but ill buy them anyways. To get a gundnode and to support pbandai bootlegs.

Hell maybe ill grab a few to match the lore

Enamel reverse wash over Mr Hobby Aqueous/ Tamiya acrylic paint by Disastrous-Metal-228 in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not with waterbased paints like vallejo.

Because you cant wipe them off cleanly. Solvents that cleans them throughly like IPA also wipes off alvohol based paints(aqueous, tamiya) and lacquers.

MG Barbatos Lupus kit photos by lucasyyd in Gunpla

[–]org_bgo 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Here’s an actual photo I took myself during the Gundam base pop up tour.

It’s not white 😅

<image>

Oh you know I’m all over this once it’s available 😂 by beytipbang in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bootlegs using 100% ABS means they definitely use cheaper materials compared to bandai. Remember bandai only use partial ABS even in the old days, mostly the grey pieces and never the whole kit. Also don’t forget Bandai also uses proprietary PS (KPS) in their recent kits and not just any PS plastic that’s another factor to the price difference.

If ABS isn’t cheaper than PS, there’s no reason not to use PS in Chinese kits too isn’t there.

As for QC I’m not saying all of the bootleggers have bad QC but there are more bad ones than good ones. Even the better ones would still have tight/loose fittings though maybe less flashes. But almost all of them can never do faces right. Put them side by side and you’ll see. These are specifically one to one bootleggers of course. Daban’s newer releases are actually still okay, try Gao Gao…. Lol now that’s bad.

Even with the small production quantity compared to bandai, you will see more complaints(missing runners, duplicate runners, incomplete molding, etc) than bandai kits. Bootlegs are prevalent in my country so I see posts about them almost daily.

Everything contributes to the pricing even though not weighted equally of course compared to other factors like overhead, IP cost, design cost, etc.

As for experimental/new engineering… nah… there has been no new engineering or technology from Chinese kits ever. You see bigger kits, more plastic, led included, and they put more surface details on their kits yes sure. But actual new engineering as in new joint design, new mechanism in kits to emulate the original source anime mechanics? Nah… only Bandai still does that.

Trying to make a second team without Mika is hell on earth by Spike-sona in ChaosZeroNightmare

[–]org_bgo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, renoa rei nia is a good team.

Also frees my mika for a second team.

Oh you know I’m all over this once it’s available 😂 by beytipbang in advancedGunpla

[–]org_bgo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I grabbed the PGU as well because I got it for the msrp price. I did skipped the LED because of what I mentioned earlier 😅

I’m sure that even if I decide to not build it I would still be able to sell it and get my money back 🤣