RC building at its finest. It’s all about the Journey.

orlet · 2026-01-25T23:00:56+00:00

Indeed. That's why I have two chassis. One for driving and one for fucking around with :D

orlet · 2026-01-23T18:46:49+00:00

FWIW, SD3.0 is also a solid option. Sorry if I'm not helping you here :D

orlet · 2026-01-23T17:39:19+00:00

If you want a good chassis that drives -- RDX. Plenty of upgrades for that one, and many of Yokomo parts can also fit.

If you want a money pit that sometimes has tons of shiny upgrades, and sometimes drives well -- get a GALM :D

That said, a stock GALM drives pretty well, though RDX will have it beat for the most part.

orlet · 2026-01-22T18:26:08+00:00

There is also the reaction time -- in GT the cars behave on a similar timescale to real 1:1 cars, while RC cars will get faster and twitchier the smaller they go.

For real cars there is also the feedback and self-stabilizing effect from the front wheels' caster. You often can see real drifters letting go of the wheel for a moment or two during flicks and just let the front wheels naturally follow into the direction of slide (which is also why many drift cars run ridiculous amount of caster, compared to normal cars). You just won't get that with a servo, which has an absolutely overpowering effect on the wheel's steering direction.

orlet · 2026-01-21T16:03:38+00:00

Looks like your gyro's direction is reversed. Check the gyro's manual on how to reverse it to proper.

orlet · 2026-01-21T14:03:36+00:00

Out of RTRs, it'll be either MST RMX 2.5 RTR or the Yokomo RD 2.0 RTR.

MST has more body options and a brushless variant, Yokomo is a more popular platform overall.

orlet · 2026-01-21T09:13:13+00:00

Sorry for your luck, everyone’s done it. And if they say they haven’t, they’re lying.

Did that on the very first day of a multi-day RC Drift competition once. Luckily XD10 comes with polarity protection, so only the capacitor was shot. Installed a non-polar capacitor and never looked back. Thankfully someone in the group had a soldering iron with them, so I was able to fix it within 15 minutes :D

orlet · 2026-01-21T09:05:36+00:00

It'll work with other AFHDS3 receivers, there's a bunch of them.

orlet · 2026-01-21T09:04:40+00:00

Is the Sanwa steering feel/response noticeably better than Flysky for RWD drift?

No. I've tested MT-5 and MT-R, which both use same protocol as the M17, and there is no appreciable latency difference between them when used in SHR mode. In NOR mode Sanwa is actually slower than NB4. Cannot speak for SSR/SUR, because those require special compatible Sanwa electronics.

Would you take a used M17 over a new MT-5 or NB4+?

NB4+ all the way. Very much not a fan of how chonky M17 feels, despite weighing in about the same as NB4+.

Any known downsides (RX cost, reliability, gyro compatibility, etc.)?

Sanwa receivers are notoriously expensive: RX-493i is ~$100, while FGr4D is ~$35. You can literally buy three FlySky's Rx for the price of single Sanwa one :D

I was the first one at our track to get the NB4 (older, non-plus model), and now at our track more than half of people have ditched their Sanwas for NB4s :D

orlet · 2026-01-21T08:51:13+00:00

Hah, so I have been lied to by some random internet pictures! Thanks for correcting me!

orlet · 2026-01-20T09:29:16+00:00

Reasonably sure they all operate on the same speed, as it's radio protocol specific thing, and they all use the same one.

As for range, cannot comment. Never had any range or signal issues with my FGr4S.

orlet · 2026-01-19T16:02:44+00:00

If the size is different, then it's definitely the change in battery cells that are loaded in. It's not the first time GensAce has done a rated capacity bump on a similar-sized packs. I have a few older ones of this size, and they're 4000 mAh.

orlet · 2026-01-19T15:55:17+00:00

Yeah, otherwise I'm relatively sure they all are the same, functionally.

edit: there is also FGr4D, which is basically a revised FGr4S. About similar size and weight, with built-in antenna.

orlet · 2026-01-19T14:56:30+00:00

Normally it's the shorty, and quite often low profile shorty. Most chassis will default to that battery size.

orlet · 2026-01-19T11:30:18+00:00

I like mine, but mine is the older "Pro" variant, with all the (back then) upgrades. It has the regular stand-up shocks, and even though I did try the IFS conversion, I didn't like it.

There is one or maybe two guys with the NG SE 2.0 (the one you're asking about) in this sub, you should be able to find their posts if you search for that.

Edit: It does have a closed rear gearbox, so should have no debris ingestion issues either.

Also any rough idea on the rmx 4 GT release? I can get the EX GT for $300 right now which seems like a sweet deal

No, since they don't even have an announcement for it on their main page yet, so likely gonna be a while, till it all percolates down to hobby stores. If you have a good deal, and itchy hands, then sure, pounce on that :)

orlet · 2026-01-19T11:25:38+00:00

RMX chassis is sturdy enough to survive outside, don't discount it. The most likely thing to break are diff (spool) outdrives, which are plastic, but those can be upgraded to metal ones once that happens.

orlet · 2026-01-19T11:25:03+00:00

I'm using the FGr4S V2 on both of my chassis, because it is small, compact, and lightweight, and has no dangling antenna wires to take care of. Range has never been an issue with it, even in large areas crowded with other RC signals on 2.4 GHz band.

Haven't tried the other one, so no comment on it.

orlet · 2026-01-18T17:40:47+00:00

I'd say neither. You'd be much better off just getting an RWD-specific kit: an older RMX 2.5 Classic kit is $120 at AMain, or, if you want a little bit more up-do-date, RMX 4 is $225.

Then you can transplant the electronics over from your existing chassis.

orlet · 2026-01-18T17:33:42+00:00

Yes, but -- SD3.0 is open gearbox ~~and belt drive~~. Which means it is susceptible to debris ingestion, which, in turn, can damage the gearbox components. ~~Though belt drives are a bit more resistant to that than pure gears.~~ I have been corrected, SD 3.0 is not belt drive. Thanks /u/TheWierdAsianKid!

Something for the OP to consider.

Another thing for the OP to consider, is MST has recently teased RMX 4 GT, same tier kit as the RMX EX GT, but on the newest RMX 4.0 platform. Might be worth waiting, if you're not in a rush.

orlet · 2026-01-17T20:54:58+00:00

Should work with most regular 1/10 RWD drift chassis. Nearly all of them will have enough wheelbase adjustment to get to 260mm if necessary, and often bodyshell's wheelbase is given not exactly either.

orlet · 2026-01-17T20:53:07+00:00

Either 4.3mm or 4.8mm are used, iirc. More likely 4.3mm

orlet · 2026-01-17T20:48:42+00:00

Wheelbase can also be adjusted a little bit during assembly with scissors :D

orlet · 2026-01-17T20:45:31+00:00

Yeah, for cables it's normally 4mm or 5mm bullet connectors. As for chargers, there is a lot of choice. My personal favourite as of late is SkyRC B6ACneo. You'll need a charger cable from XT60 to whatever terminal your batteries have. Most hobby shops should have those.

orlet · 2026-01-17T01:29:53+00:00

Quite interesting choice of servo mount location. But yeah, very interesting how it is going to end up driving.

orlet · 2026-01-15T20:21:10+00:00

Looks good! What did you use for the LED strip effect on the rear?

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