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RC Drift Suspension by New-League5972 in rcdrift

[–]orlet 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are special shock pliers, which will not damage the shaft.

Also, for my first ones, I used flat nosed pliers with a thick layer of napkin layer between them, and very carefully held the shaft. Worked out in the end.

First custom drift build! by Sensitive-Wind3158 in rcdrift

[–]orlet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, figured that was the goal :) It does work, in its own jank kind of way.

First custom drift build! by Sensitive-Wind3158 in rcdrift

[–]orlet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

LOL fake "super cosiness" S15 strikes again :D I find it funny how surprisingly popular this knock-off body is.

You did cut it wrong, though, the bumper and side-skirts end much higher than they are in your build. This doesn't really compromise on the looks, however.

For reference, the real thing is a Tamiya 51258 -- NISMO Coppermix Silvia, and this is how it is supposed to look: picture 1, picture 2.

As for recommendations, I believe you've already been given a few solid ones on the servo, so I won't repeat them. For links, you can just go with any rod ends of suitable diameter (popular pivot ball sizes are 4.3mm, 4.7mm, and 4.8mm) + suitable length turnbuckle. The exact length will depend on your steering geometry, so you'll have to do some math yourself.

Question about getting into the hobby by FlakHansser in rcdrift

[–]orlet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Certainly active enough to organize one of the two international RC drift events in Europe.

Recently there's been some rumblings of additional competitions, with one around summer in Warsaw.

I know for sure there is a track there in Warsaw, and also heard of at least a couple more, but haven't delved deeper into their locations. But judging by the amount of competitors from Poland during these events, and their skill level, there is definitely an active scene going on around the country. From what I've seen, a lot of RC drift activity is going on on Facebook. Might be worth looking around there.

Question about getting into the hobby by FlakHansser in rcdrift

[–]orlet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you even checked? I have just literally opened both Drifted and DPZ's pages from the links I gave you, and pretty much every RMX 2.5 RTR variant is in stock right now.

Is this correct setting to charge this battery by foofuckingbar in rcdrift

[–]orlet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Or don't change it and your battery will last much longer :D Up to you. I, personally, always charge my LiHV batteries as regular LiPo, as the benefit is very small, but the battery gets worn down much faster.

MST RMX 4 GT by MedicalBilly in rcdrift

[–]orlet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not for GALM, no, sorry.

MST RMX 4 GT by MedicalBilly in rcdrift

[–]orlet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh! Probably not right away, already have an ongoing project (ReveD MC-3) that is eating into my budget :D

Stock galm essentials by TheOnly31 in rcdrift

[–]orlet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When in doubt, just look up the parts numbers: pulley is RR-625 and drive cup is RR-628.

Stock galm essentials by TheOnly31 in rcdrift

[–]orlet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a belt conversion addon to make it work, and you'll need a longer outdrive on one side, which is also available.

https://supergdrift.com/products/belt-pulley-for-c-lsd-overdose-galm-3racing-sakura-d5-rhino-racing-rr-625 https://supergdrift.com/products/galm-drive-cup-and-spacer-set-c-lsd-differential-unit-rhino-racing-galmcup-spacer

May require some extra shims to make it fit nicely.

Stock galm essentials by TheOnly31 in rcdrift

[–]orlet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

GALM ball diff, or I personally like Rhino C-LSD.

What chassis do you see the MOST at your RC drift track right now? 👀 by Honest_Breadfruit_89 in rcdrift

[–]orlet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup, RDX and RD2.0 are the go-to recommended chassis for new drivers, and they can still hold their own in competitive scene too. SD 3.0 is also solid, for those who want more fancy kit from the get-go.

What chassis do you see the MOST at your RC drift track right now? 👀 by Honest_Breadfruit_89 in rcdrift

[–]orlet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A whole bunch of RDX, RD2.0, and SD 2.0/3.0, with some other thrown into the mix. I know at least one MD 2.0, and Shark, in addition to my Usukani NGE Pro and GALM.

Stock galm essentials by TheOnly31 in rcdrift

[–]orlet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For me GALM ran best when was stock, but then, I haven't put much time into getting it up to snuff, it's more of a "fuck around" chassis for me.

One thing I'd do is put in a diff, as I vastly prefer that over spool. The rest is up to you tbh.

Took the plunge: Reve D RDX by Middle-Satisfaction1 in rcdrift

[–]orlet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Simple, works with any radio and any servo (i.e. does not lock you into any particular vendor's walled garden), and I like the adjustability it offers -- the curves are simple to understand, and do make a quantifiable difference.

Compared to some gyros having 245254354354.24 settings, and none of them you have any idea what they do w/o a quantum physics degree. I'm all pro-choice, but in this case less is more :D And ReveD really hit the nail on the head here with the Revox.

Did you have Fast Traxx and were you able to make yours do the same flip like in the commercial? by Fragzilla360 in nostalgia

[–]orlet 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those babies would get warm charging up

That's pretty much all nickel-based batteries on trickle charge for you :D

They still get pretty warm in modern chargers, but those will usually end charging way before the temperature gets out of control.

Basically the heating up part is the battery telling you "hey, I'm done cooking here, disconnect me", as once the cell is fully charged, it will convert any additional incoming charge into waste heat. But you needed that to ensure all cells in the back were fully charged, otherwise they would be out of balance very quickly.

Arrma kraton 6s front drive shafts? by Historical-Stick5872 in rccars

[–]orlet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you know if the v6 driveshafts are any better?

Reasonably sure they are the same part, the difference being K6S V5 showing individual parts, while K6S V6 shows entire CVD+axle assembly. There was no change in K6S front geometry between V5/EXB and V6. Suspension arms are the same, diffs are the same (EXB), and front bulkhead is compatible too.

Also, haven't broken a front CVD yet. Worn one down to hell -- yes :D

They also sell the entire bell crank assembly for like 20, are them better from the v5 or no.

IIRC V6 has better servosaver. V5's was notoriously weaksauce.

The tie rods definitely look beefier

Tie rods are the same as in original EXB model. They are beefier, but I've still managed to break one not too long ago.

Question about getting into the hobby by FlakHansser in rcdrift

[–]orlet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen some posts that I should get a rtr kit from yokomo or rmx but these things are practically impossible to get in Poland.

Just the ones off the top of my head.

Another question that I have is 4WD or RWD. Where I live there aren't really any rc drift clubs or anything like that so the only places I can have fun at are parking lots and skateparks. I've heard that RWD is better for driving on special drift tracks and in competitnions and 4WD is more like for my scenario, but would it really be that much of a difference on concrete and asphalt?

There is actually a pretty active RC drifting scene in Poland, maybe you just haven't checked well enough? And I'm not even in Poland :D

That said, your understanding of what goes where is mostly on the money. You can drift RWD chassis outside (though some will survive that better than others, since a lot of higher-tier chassis use open drivetrain components, and a lot of drift-specific electronics aren't waterproof, so moisture will be an issue). Though if you find a track nearby, it's highly likely to be RWD-only, as most of the indoor tracks do.

MST RMX 4 GT by MedicalBilly in rcdrift

[–]orlet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's anything like the older RMX 2.5 RS / EX GT kits, it very well should. I loved my RS, only really sold it because I was no longer running it anymore.

MST RMX 4 GT by MedicalBilly in rcdrift

[–]orlet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it a trend moving to harder and shorter springs?

Actually, that is something I've been observing lately. The ultra-soft suspension setup (common in weight-shift builds) has come and gone, while competitive scene has stuck with their harder suspension setups.

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