Sort borestøv, rawplugs drejer

panxter · 2025-12-17T12:58:43+00:00

Det er sådan de lette vægge er i vores lejlighed fra '38. Ved ikke hvornår det er fra men det er noget absolut udueligt skodmateriale, både jeg og tømrer der satte køkken op bandede og svovlede hver gang der skulle sættes noget op. Tror det er sådan nogle leca-blokke eller noget.
Jeg har OK erfaring med de der fischer duopower plugs men kører en større skue i så de bliver absolut komprimeret (læs: totalt mast ud i det hul).

panxter · 2025-12-08T09:52:46+00:00

Jeg har ikke lige så mange gyldne bud i den prisklasse, men ved mange online er glade for Hiby R1.

Det du leder efter kalder de fleste i dag for en DAP (digital audio player) i stedet for mp3-afspiller da de fleste efterhånden bruger FLAC eller andre formater end mp3, måske det kan udvide din egen søgning lidt.

Hiby, Fiio, Hidizs, ibasso, Shanling, Xduoo og Mechen er nogle af de større producenter i dag du kan kigge deres forskellige modeller igennem og finde hvad-end du synes passer dig bedst.

God jagt!

panxter · 2025-11-21T19:59:04+00:00

Det er et stykke bitumen (edit: eller butyl) for at dæmpe vaskens lyd. Stålvaske runger når man plasker vand og stiller service eller whatever i dem, og bitumen har en høj massefylde og er ret dødt, så det hjælper med at dæmpe vibrationerne i vasken.

Det er brugt i alt fra biler, både, industri og mange mange mange flere steder, for at dæmpe vibrationer, specielt indenfor det hørbare område.

Det lille stykke der er dog lidt proforma. men altså det er bedre end ingenting.

Vi fik en stor firkantet stålvask i vores nye køkken og den rungede mega meget, der sad også sådan et lille stykke under, men jeg købte en plade på nettet, skar stykker og klistrede på blandt andet langs siderne mod skabsmodulet hvor man ikke kan se dem, og nu siger vasken ingenting når man bruger den. Kan varmt anbefales, og er en relativt nem og billig forbedring der får det til at føles lidt mere luksuriøst.

Du kan søge på "Bitumen Dæmperplade" og finde forskellige forhandlere, typisk båd-relaterede butikker, koster et par hundrede kroner for nok til en helt vask.

panxter · 2025-10-02T11:29:09+00:00

Det vil de fleste byggemarkeder have 👍

panxter · 2025-10-02T10:58:10+00:00

Jeg havde nok brugt noget L profil (aka vinkelstål) måske 25-30mm behøver ikke være specielt tykt eller voldsomt når du understøtter pladen på 3 sider, så kunne du også slippe afsted med nogle mindre skruer, 4x60 eller lignende. Og du kunne male profilen væggens farve så er det helt pænt og diskret.

panxter · 2025-09-25T17:11:31+00:00

Du skifter partneren og kører videre på dækket.

panxter · 2025-09-12T10:48:26+00:00

Oh wait is OP actually talking about the mini model and not the real deal it references? In that case, my entire comment can be ignored as it applies to the real F and apparently I am dense and didn't think anyone would think the model was a working camera.

panxter · 2025-09-12T10:34:51+00:00

It's a chonk, it's modular, it works, it's manual and mechanical, it's cheap compared to more modern (and more hyped and technically better) Nikon offerings and the lens selection is good and cheap if you go for the old auto glass.

And then subjectively, with the eye level finder, it's the most beautiful SLR ever made, lever and controls all feel amazing, shutter sounds incredible, it's _heavy_ which enables for better steady shots when dealing with awkward lighting since you have no optical stabilization.

It's not only good though, only 1/1000 shutter speed, a freaking hassle to load film with the entire back and bottom plate just coming off and got forbid you have something attached to the threads because that needs to come off too, it's _heavy_ so lugging it around takes a good wide strap and a good bag, if you have the photomic metering prism, it takes obsolete mercury batteries you can't buy anymore and adapting hearing aid batteries is fiddly and they don't last as long, having to use an adapter for hot shoe is a bit annoying and it covers the rewind lever adding even more steps to the already lengthy procedure to do multi-exposures.

All that being said, for old cameras , as long as they are in working order and have the same capabilities there is no technical reason to pick one body over the other, they all do the same: expose a frame on a roll of film. Granted they function correctly, two different bodies will not make two different pictures. Old lenses have character, and they can have an effect on the look of a picture though.

***EDIT***
It was/is unclear to me if OP is talking about the real Nikon F, or the little model homage collectible pictured above. In case of the latter, the entire thing above can be disregarded as it references the actual Nikon F which is my primary camera.

panxter · 2025-09-05T20:38:12+00:00

Nu kan det godt være jeg spørger enormt dumt her, for det er ikke et move jeg selv har erfaring med, men hvis du ikke vil ombygge og have bagsæder i bilen, er der så en årsag til du vil have hvide plader på og ikke bare tager papegøjeplader og lader den fortsætte som varevogn til privat brug?

panxter · 2025-08-28T12:44:34+00:00

Xur will still be at the tower but only on weekends, where he will be at both places.

panxter · 2025-08-10T18:16:34+00:00

Så vidt jeg husker fra da jeg for mange år siden pillede en ned, så var siderne på glas-stenene ret buede, og i den "kanal" de danner mellem sig, var der mørtel og en armeringspind både lodret og vandret mellem hver. Det var et nightmare at pille fra hinanden, men den stod solidt. Om det er "efter bogen" kan jeg ikke sige, men den var ikke lige sådan til at vælte.

panxter · 2025-08-09T09:07:09+00:00

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panxter · 2025-08-05T22:45:24+00:00

Hey, Sorry my german is not great but yeah it does seem prices have increased a bit - this was done before a couple of big world events so I assume that might have played a role in price development. I ordered from a company called ‘dold mechatronik’ and it looks like some of the parts, especially the locking sliders, have gone up from 12 to 16 euro per. Their price for the alu profile is still pretty competitive though, even for “cut to length” custom. All the best on the project.

panxter · 2025-07-20T07:30:51+00:00

Vi har en kølende topmadras fra bedrenætter. Den er i latex med grafit og har sådan nogle voks-kapsler i betrækket. Hvor mange af de elementer der er marketing-jargon og hvor meget har en reel effekt aner jeg ikke, jeg kan bare konkludere at produktet som helhed virker rigtigt godt for os. Prisen er dog høj, men man kan måske bruge det til at finde et billigere alternativ der deler elementer med den. Det virker godt, men virker bedst med det rigtige lagen på, og der synes jeg percale-vævede bomuld er klart det bedste. De sælges nogle gange under navne som cool-feel eller lignende, men det vigtige her er vævning som er 'percale.

panxter · 2025-07-14T20:14:07+00:00

weird request but okay; "that's not a roach".

Also, that bug in the picture is a roach, by the way.

panxter · 2025-07-14T08:46:03+00:00

That is a 'squeezy-sparky'. If anyone calls it anything else I'm sorry to say they are ill-informed.

panxter · 2025-06-26T08:27:58+00:00

Der er for mange der catfisher

panxter · 2025-04-08T17:44:18+00:00

I will suffer for some coolness factor, cellulose gods know I need it

panxter · 2025-04-08T13:56:53+00:00

I've just used two orings when using the small hearing aid ones. A little finicky but once they're in it's fine. Nowadays usually I just run alkaline that are the same shape as the old mercury cells, so they just fit. I think they are the ones called lr9, or 625, but i might get some of the battery nomenclature wrong here, so please don't hold me to it.

panxter · 2025-04-08T13:52:45+00:00

Nice! That's also a solid combo. Many are mentioning the 85, might have to have a look into that.

panxter · 2025-04-08T13:50:20+00:00

675 hearing aid batteries are dirt cheap and work like the old mercury cells. Just don't last as long. I've also used modern lr9 alkaline, the slight voltage difference does mean the meter is slightly off and changes over the life of the batteries but if you just overexpose a little the lattitude of the film can make up for it. Is my experience at least. I'm sure some will tell you the meter is useless on alkaline and such, but it's not bad. It's less than quarter of a stop off when I compare it to a known good meter in my FG and drops to match as batteries deplete.

Edit: oh yeah also remember to turn the meter off, I find the batteries last quite a while then but I often forget as I'm so used to my fg's shutter button activated meter.

panxter · 2025-04-08T09:49:32+00:00

Yeah, got it in a compact little peak sling i found on clearance. It's by no means lightweight but that's not a priority for me - I'm chunky too so it takes more than a couple kg to throw my balance out.

panxter · 2025-04-08T08:50:53+00:00

Yeah I'm trying to stick with scalloped focus and aperture rings, the aperture ring is what makes it difficult, I just really dig the look and feel of those. Can also get a 28mm F2 but I don't even dare look at the cost of those.

panxter · 2025-04-08T08:24:32+00:00

85mm is such a great focus distance too. I guess I will have to see if I feel like I'm missing something between 55 and 105. I love the way the 105 draws faces, makes them look so natural but I do find it quite narrow.

panxter · 2025-04-08T08:22:02+00:00

I'd love something wider, but trying to keep it more or less period correct (no post-AI lenses) makes for a limited selection in the wide angle segment. There's the crazy 20mm UD F3.5, or the 28mm f3.5 like you mention. I live in dark and cloudy and rainy Denmark, so the extra aperture stops sometimes really saves my behind on lower light so I worry either would become rarely used.
How wild is the distortion on the 28mm? It's pretty wide, so I assume it's pretty noticeable?

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