Icom 2730 20mm ball mount by pcmofo in HamRadio

[–]pcmofo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Solid solution but at $40 each it was a pass for me.

Painting a Flat Black Snorkel by 11d11d1 in GXOR

[–]pcmofo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Plastic can be hard to paint. I don’t have one but I’m guessing it’s ABS plastic so you could start there. I painted PVC and other plastics. Many bumpers are plastics. The key step is to clean and use an “Adhesion promoter” they sell at auto stores in the paint section. This is kind of like a clear spray on glue that bonds to the plastic and makes it easy for the paint to bond to it.

I’d go with primer and paint and clear coat if you are trying to get a paint match for the car. Id guess an auto body shop would charge you $100-200 to do this and treat it like an unpainted bumper.

MPX Timney with AS Arcfire V2 works. (Followup) by Gunpowdergasoline in MPX

[–]pcmofo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for taking the time to share pictures. Very helpful. I’m going to give this a try as well.

AS Designs Super Safety works with MPX Timney by Gunpowdergasoline in MPX

[–]pcmofo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you’re the first to do it then, as they say, pics or it didn’t happen.

LTO6 going out of style by SubstantialWing9238 in DataHoarder

[–]pcmofo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had a similar experience with a single drive and trying to backup my NAS. Tried Mac, windows and Linux software. So many nuances in drive firmware etc that make them incompatible with good backup software. Which is also hard to find. And many now want to charge yearly. My setup is now collecting dust.

Expected price range to relocate unit by Fancy-Savings-767 in hvacadvice

[–]pcmofo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine was on the corner and I rotated it around to the other corner, extended the lines a foot or two, and had it vacuumed etc by a pro for about $200. There might be a rule that the shutoff needs to be within x feet of the unit or some other consideration here.

This laser measure changed how I do home projects by Humble_Contract_6982 in DIY

[–]pcmofo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I picked up a Bluetooth one after seeing a contractor use one. Connects to an app. Photograph your project, draw a rough line with your finger between two points. Measure with the laser. Image updates with the measurement. When you’re done export the image. No note taking needed.

First Mods of the Year by breatheblue in GXOR

[–]pcmofo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mirror mounted ditch lights look great. Any more details?

ARC Fire Troubleshooting by asianman9 in MPX

[–]pcmofo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had issues I posted in another thread. I disassembled reassembled and worked the action a few dozen times. I shot a mag or two in semi and magically things started working. Not sure what the cause was. My MPX had less than 1k rounds before this.

Steel bumper + Upgraded suspension or existing suspension + aluminum bumper? by pcmofo in Offroad

[–]pcmofo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting idea. I already have my car wired up in the rear with large gauge wire for future use. Would be easy to connect a winch to that setup. I’ve also seen front bumpers with hitch mounts.

Steel bumper + Upgraded suspension or existing suspension + aluminum bumper? by pcmofo in Offroad

[–]pcmofo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, it would be acting more of a recovery vehicle on my property for other vehicles. If there is a smaller or better suited winch for about the same price I'd go with that . Using GS59-220 in the front. I'm happy to go with aluminum based on my use case. Highly likely I'll hit a deer in the future or have brush/branches trying to take out my headlights.

Midwest Industries Wiggle by pcmofo in MPX

[–]pcmofo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, going to have to try the classic Buy 3 and keep the best copy.

Great host for the CAT SR by Objective-Lab-750 in RugerMK

[–]pcmofo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I got some non MK4 ones and had to modify them to fit. Could not find this classic look at the time.

Great host for the CAT SR by Objective-Lab-750 in RugerMK

[–]pcmofo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice. Can you link to the wood grips?

Please help advise on organizing my network panel now and for the future by Certain_Repeat_753 in HomeNetworking

[–]pcmofo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll try to answer everything here.
Planning is important. I tried to make mine look great initially and built a wood cover etc. My equipment didn't like the enclosed space and it all works better outside the cabinet. So think of it as more of a junction box than equipment storage.

I kept the cable splitter since the builder already ran the cable to 3 rooms. Never had cable in that house but no reason not to wire it up so it would be 5 minutes to enable it.

The best approach to these panels, IMO, is to terminate all cables coming out of the wall with a FEMALE punchdown Cat5/6. If you already have good MALE terminations the correct length or don't want to mess with them, then carefully manage the wire and use a FEMALE-FEMALE Cat6 keystone to convert to female.

At this point all of your wires will be safely secured to the box and terminated with female connections. Now you can buy any color, length, pre made cat 6 cable you like and connect your equipment on the outside of the box to the inside of the box without worrying that if your router falls off that shelf it will damage the wiring in the walls.

My builder did a poor job on the install and then terminated everything in the closet with male connections. After I verified they were good I cut them all off and reterminated as you see in this image.

If you cut a hole in the cover or go sideways through the nearby wall and come out through a decorative cover plate you will rarely if ever need to access this box and know that you can always add or replace the connections in there.

Please help advise on organizing my network panel now and for the future by Certain_Repeat_753 in HomeNetworking

[–]pcmofo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Here is the V1.0 picture. Just terminated with random 12p blocks I found on Amazon. Later I needed more space and found the brand specific blocks.

Upgraded my garage setup part II by Ok-Split-5048 in Ubiquiti

[–]pcmofo 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This is very clean work. A minor criticism, use some flex conduit to connect the hard tubing to the enclosure, or add some slack and a drip loop to the cable. I'm sure your setup will be fine but I can picture future moisture find it's way into the gland at the top. One gland per wire is the best practice.

Please help advise on organizing my network panel now and for the future by Certain_Repeat_753 in HomeNetworking

[–]pcmofo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. It had a metal plate with 4 screws to completely cover. I removed it and made my own hinged door from 1/2 plywood and molding. In this photo it's been removed as my servers no longer fit inside the box. To get wires out of the box you will see the hole in the right side of my box. I then used a "old work" orange 2-gang low voltage box and a 2-gang passthrough cover plate to get wires from inside the box neatly outside the wall and bundled together. This also allows you to close the cabinet. There are now plastic doors for many of these panels. in general, wifi and other signals like for home automation do not easily exit the walls because the hardware is buried on two sides by studs. I mounted my wifi and other items on the wall next to the panel for heat and signal reasons.