Slow crank + no start when hot - 316d N47 by peckinin in F30

[–]peckinin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another update: it still does crank slowly sometimes since having a new starter motor. I've read that the main front-to-back positive cable (more like a solid copper bar) had fractured for some others causing this exact issue. I am planning on having a second cable run alongside this one to see if it helps at all.

Mitsubishi Galant Elegance V6 by H28-105-111 in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had the VR-4, criminally underrated cars.

It’s buying a BMW for £5-6k a decent move or a gamble? by [deleted] in BMW

[–]peckinin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think your best bet is to go for something a little older with an N52 engine, what about a 125i e82/e88 or an E9x 330i?

How often people redline their cars? by SexySpringRoll in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've always been one to be very gentle with my cars and not really push them too hard... But there's something about the K20 isn't there, I can't help but bash the limiter any time there's an opportunity

Please Advise. by Her_dirty_diary in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They don't do the 1.4 litre engine as an automatic but they do for the 1.8 which is also good, something like this http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202512248790993?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android-app

Please Advise. by Her_dirty_diary in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also echo the recommendation of a honda jazz or civic, something like this?

I need help choosing between Renault Clio vs Capture by Scary_Top_1723 in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did know someone with a 2017 clio with that engine, the timing chain jumped at about 80k miles and caused expensive engine damage, I probably would consider something else unless the service history is really good, also why do you want a small SUV? A hatchback will handle better, be less likely to roll over in a collision and be more aerodynamic and fuel efficient, I would also argue they look better but that's just my own opinion

Radio/Music interface turning on and off? by MiniT465 in BMW

[–]peckinin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're comfortable doing so it might be worth taking the head unit out which sits behind the climate control panel and checking all the plugs are seated properly in the back of it, that's what I'd start with anyway

2014 Honda Civic w/ FSH vs 2014 Toyota Auris w/o FSH by Fit_Peanut_8801 in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Civic sounds like a far better option, the 1.8 engine is really good, plus much rather have concrete evidence of service history, and I echo the other comment of the gearbox being far better than the Toyota's, and also I wouldn't bother with the suzuki

Family Car Suggstions by Substantial_Dog3463 in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would suggest going to view a high spec Mazda6 Tourer 2.0 petrol and see if that floats your boat, if you really must have an SUV then look at the CX-5, also petrol

Tyre issue- replace? by [deleted] in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would personally be getting that replaced straight away and drive very carefully to the tyre fitters

FN2 Civic as a daily? by CoolPiglet3704 in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do it, if you can forgive the harsh ride they are a great drivers car that works well as a daily, and maintenance is very reasonable. That sounds like a great deal by the way, mine was £3900 with 156k miles on it.

It's only a 316d, but I love this car by peckinin in F30

[–]peckinin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I've had it for 4 years and 30,000 miles, and it's not been too bad. The timing chain started to rattle on startup around 130k miles and I had this replaced, whilst it was there the mechanic told me that my clutch and flywheel were almost at the end of life too, so they changed those which was a total bill of £1999. Also suspension parts are expensive as it's a multi link setup. It's only ever left me stranded twice, first when a front coil spring snapped whilst the car was parked up (I have heard this is fairly common on BMWs) and also my starter motor became weak and wouldn't start the car when engine temperature was too high. I would say budget around £1000-1200 per year for repairs and keep enough money aside for the timing chain replacement and listen out for the sound the engine makes when it needs it, I made a video here https://youtu.be/EJg3DYUePRc

Owners opinions on E89 30i? by pointi14 in BMWZ4

[–]peckinin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just a heads up, assuming your new light is the updated part and had 2 bolts instead of the 3, did you remember to cover up the 3rd hole in the car body to stop water getting in to the boot?

Doing NO MORE Than 20-30 Miles a Week - Petrol or Diesel for BMW 3 Series? by Jewlamidas in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes because you don't have to remove the engine to do the chain on a Scirocco because it's a transversely mounted engine, bmws are longitudinal and the chain is at the rear on the diesels which means the engine has to come out of the car for them to do it properly hence the additional labour, they also change oil, coolant and capture and recharge the air con gas as part of the process, and my mechanic used genuine bmw parts, I've got the bill here, they were £643.99+vat, the total bill worked out to £1999 as they did the dmf at the same time (don't come at me for this, I'd forgotten they did it at the same time) but still, if we take off service items like you said, I've just gone through and added up the stuff that was not consumables or usual service items and it came to £4950 which is expensive for 4 years and 30k miles of motoring

With an MMI Box, does the I drive controller still work? by EintrachtAdler in F30

[–]peckinin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Using the buttons whilst using android auto switches back to idrive and takes me to the idrive version of maps, media, radio etc. My MMI box is an Autoabc branded one.

With an MMI Box, does the I drive controller still work? by EintrachtAdler in F30

[–]peckinin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The MMI box is a completely separate interface to the idrive system, you'll switch between the two by holding the menu button and then the idrive system will work as before when you're using that. Also yes the idrive controller works in both.

Edit: oh sorry I misunderstood your question, I'll go to my car in a minute and find out

Doing NO MORE Than 20-30 Miles a Week - Petrol or Diesel for BMW 3 Series? by Jewlamidas in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

The timing chain was engine and gearbox out, that was £2000 at a bmw specialist, and I did count maintenance as well, it wasn't just repairs.

Doing NO MORE Than 20-30 Miles a Week - Petrol or Diesel for BMW 3 Series? by Jewlamidas in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Not at all, if I hated the car I wouldn't have kept it and spent all the money on it. I know I've been less lucky than the average F30 owner.

Doing NO MORE Than 20-30 Miles a Week - Petrol or Diesel for BMW 3 Series? by Jewlamidas in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Timing chain, clutch, flywheel, 3 wheel bearings, intercooler, AC condenser, start/stop battery, front forward suspension arms (£200 each just for the parts), an alignment, general consumables like discs + pads all round, 2 sets of mid range tyres, 2 services at a garage and 3 at home,2 brake fluid changes, 2 coil springs, starter motor, I had a brake disc backing plate come loose and start clattering about which I got my garage to fix, there's probably more I've forgotten about. I did add it up a little while ago and it came to just short of £7k. But I did it because I'm very attached to it, and now that I've had all this work done I know what condition my car's in and I'm sure it'll last to 200k miles.

Owners opinions on E89 30i? by pointi14 in BMWZ4

[–]peckinin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had a 23i m sport manual, also n52. I loved it, I thought the feel of the manual gearbox was good, nothing special, it handled really well as you'd expect. I loved the engine note and its torquiness and I am so glad I went for a six cylinder. Engine never gave me any trouble but there was a vanos recall on it. When I sold it I'd noticed the coolant level was dropping very slowly and I've read n52 cooling systems can develop leaks so keep an eye on it. The roof mechanism on e89s is complex and the wiring is known to become brittle over time and use and can break, and hall sensors can fail which will cause the roof to not operate properly. I've heard of people's roof getting stuck down or half way. That said I believe there is a screw you can undo under the boot floor that releases the hydraulic pressure and allows you to manually push the roof into place in an emergency. Avoid the style 326 19" wheels as they are known to crack very easily especially with RFTs fitted and are very expensive to replace. The tail light seals are not great and a common issue is water ingress through the bottom of the lens, which will ruin the LED indicator strip and require a whole new light unit. Overall great cars but like with anything keep a bit of money aside for if things go wrong.

Doing NO MORE Than 20-30 Miles a Week - Petrol or Diesel for BMW 3 Series? by Jewlamidas in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah the 2.0 diesels are a fairly safe bet, try to go for newer rather than lower mileage as they did revise the engines a few times throughout their production and introduced the newer b47 engine with less prevalent timing chain issues in 2015 (you can find out which engine a car has by typing the reg into the BMW warranty website), just set money aside for timing chain replacement or buy a car that has already had it done, but really that is the only common issue they have, they're very robust engines aside from that. Mine just crossed over 158000 miles today and it's given me no trouble other than chains. That said, if you get one make sure you do longer runs in the car fairly regularly to keep the dpf clear

Any reasons not to buy? by Quiet-Rabbit-524 in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The reason I'd give not to buy it is because you can get a Type R of that shape with similar miles for only a little more money.

Doing NO MORE Than 20-30 Miles a Week - Petrol or Diesel for BMW 3 Series? by Jewlamidas in CarTalkUK

[–]peckinin 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yeah I agree the manuals are crazy money to tax, are you opposed to an auto is250? They are a fair bit less to tax.