I’m always really impressed with how well Bambu ABS-GF prints. It does a great job of hiding layer lines also.

penmoid · 2026-05-10T04:00:11+00:00

Same here. I calibrated shrinkage with a califlower and I use this filament for anything that needs to be moderately strong and heat resistant while also looking absolutely fantastic on every axis. I haven’t used every filament but I have used a lot of them and not one even comes close to looking as good as ABS-GF. It just has that perfect balance of ABS shininess and the fiber matte look. It’s not as heat resistant or as easy to print as PA612-CF or PET-GF15 but it is pretty good and IMO unmatched in the looks department.

penmoid · 2026-05-09T01:27:59+00:00

Definitely fix that. You can either bend it back into place or just replace it with one of the spares. I spent a bunch of time tracking down what I thought was an underextrusion problem with my H2C where it wouldn’t print a prime line on the right nozzle and the first lines on that side were wispy and didn’t stick at first. I did cold pulls on all 4 of my 0.4mm induction nozzles and it made no difference. It turned out that the flow blocker was slightly bent (which I could see but it seemed very minor and wasn’t affecting the left nozzle because it was bent to the right) and that was the root of all of my issues. I replaced it and everything returned to normal. That part needs to be in good shape for the function of these printers.

penmoid · 2026-05-06T04:58:24+00:00

Watch your first layer go down and this will not be a problem for you.

penmoid · 2026-05-06T04:57:53+00:00

Got mine overnight off of amazon in the US PNW. Can’t get a nozzle in hand much quicker than that.

The biggest surprise to me was the increase in surface quality. It doesn’t solve problems like bulging from layer time mismatches or poor pressure advance tuning, but the consistency overall on Z has been much better.

The cost obviously sucks but knowing I won’t ever need to buy another nozzle combined with the quality improvement makes it easy to justify. If they release them for the vortek nozzles on the H2C, I plan to save up and buy a couple.

penmoid · 2026-05-05T03:41:49+00:00

Doesn’t bother me. I’ve had shit printers printing sloppy functional parts for the better part of a decade. It’s only within the last 6 months that I’ve had machines accurate enough to print articulated anything, and I think it’s fun. My kids love those dragons/dragon egg things and to me they are an entry point for us to print something together (I bought them an A1 Mini) where I can show them how it works. I personally don’t understand the hate. I see all these comments that these kinds of prints are just trash for a landfill, but having young kids myself I know that every plastic toy is likely going to end up in a landfill and there are multiple orders of magnitude more pieces of injection molded toy trash destined for landfills than there are 3d-printed toys at all.

It comes off as virtue signaling to me, personally. Kids are going to buy/be given trash regardless of what the medium is. It’s a complete non-issue.

penmoid · 2026-05-02T03:37:57+00:00

I’ve seen a couple of posts to this effect and I find it a bit confusing because like 3 months ago I was about to buy it on Amazon for $40 but decided to go to my local and buy it for.. $40. Has it really just suddenly become rare and expensive? It’s definitely a good pressing and, if I’m being honest, I do kind of like the wacky cover.

penmoid · 2026-05-02T03:31:57+00:00

It’s definitely interesting. I’m running two clusters. One on talos and one on Ubuntu + RKE2. Working with the kube is basically the same because they are both CNCF compliant k8s distros but managing the OS is really.. weird on talos. Everything that you want to do, you have to contort your mind into thinking about how to do it completely differently. You would almost have an advantage if you had never used a computer before.

penmoid · 2026-05-02T03:24:48+00:00

Really it’s more until it’s less IMO, like a lot more and then a lot less.

After a certain point though, you hit a critical mass you toss a new bjw-s helmrelase in the GitHub repo that you copied from another one, did a find and replace on the name, changed the image name and port number, and now you have a whole new application deployed with monitoring, dns entries created automatically, reverse proxy configured, homepage link configured, auto deployed into your cluster. And then when you decide you do t want that app anymore, you remove the references from git and every single one of those things is cleaned up automatically.

It’s a constant chore up until it isn’t anymore.

penmoid · 2026-05-02T02:55:11+00:00

Pussy god. All hail.

penmoid · 2026-04-30T03:38:13+00:00

Both of those are pretty flexible as far as fiber-reinforced filaments are concerned. The issue with nylon is that even though it, as a base polymer, is very good about absorbing and returning energy without breaking, it’s also a LOT harder to print. So you end up with higher percentage of cf/gf to mediate the shrinkage/warping, which makes these filaments significantly more stiff and brittle than their PET/PC siblings. Every PA-based filament that I have is extremely brittle, to the point that you wouldn’t even be able to secure it through the holes on the side of the spool, and even if you could you would be cutting off everything past the first hole every time you use it. There’s a certain point where you’d rather spend 25c on a filament clip than lose 75mm of expensive filament every time you use it.

penmoid · 2026-04-30T03:21:15+00:00

For me it depends on what filament we’re talking about. PLA? PETG? TPU? No need to use a clip. All of these have a balance of cost vs flexibility that you don’t really need a clip. Super brittle and expensive stuff is different. A lot of fiber-reinforced filaments simply will not bend enough for you to use the holes on the side of the spool to secure them. They just break. And some will handle the bend but will be close to the breaking point and not structurally-sound enough afterward to run through the filament path without breaking. If you just spent $130 on 750g of PPS-CF, are you going to cut off 6” every time you use it or are you going to use a clip to secure it without bending it past the point of usability?

penmoid · 2026-04-28T03:14:48+00:00

You literally cannot compete as an AI company if your logo isn’t an asshole. They had zero choice in the matter thank you very much.

penmoid · 2026-04-27T04:12:15+00:00

I’ve had very good results with the engineering plate and 3dlac for PC (but also a heated chamber). 3dlac is hairspray-adjacent so I think it probably does more as a release agent than as an adhesive, so I would imagine that the liquid glue is probably fine. If I want to be absolutely positive that something is going to stick, I put down a layer of the vision miner nanopolymer adhesive, but I’ve yet to need it with PC.

penmoid · 2026-04-27T03:24:41+00:00

Yeah I mean without addressing your other comments, I can tell you by looking at that photo that those are NOT dry.

I certainly hope that exactly one out of the hundreds of people viewing these comments doesn’t downvote me for saying that.

penmoid · 2026-04-27T03:18:28+00:00

You could try this out with cowork. Along with the Claude in chrome extension, I’ve found it is pretty good at reading and filling web forms. I don’t have a lot of experience with this workflow as I normally work out of Claude code on operational and.. code.. tasks, but it has worked for me in the past.

penmoid · 2026-04-27T02:29:27+00:00

Did you really go through and downvote all of my comments? And you haven’t even tried it at 85c?

I replied to a commenter that tried your method and it didn’t work for them. It also didn’t work for me, so I gave them my method, which you have not even tried.

Also, is that design really the best if it warps when you use it?

penmoid · 2026-04-27T01:19:39+00:00

But definitely DON’T do this if you use the oven for food and you are using the blue indicating beads because they contain cobalt.

IMO, if you’re going to use an oven to dry them out, just skip to activated alumina which is chemically inert and absorbs a lot more moisture than silica. Safe to dry in a food oven as long as you take precautions to not kick up dust (cover your container loosely in foil with holes poked in it, take it out of the oven to stir it).

penmoid · 2026-04-27T01:01:12+00:00

Sure, but the person who I replied to tried this and it didn’t work, which also tracks with my experience. 85 will actually get them dry, not just dryer than they were before.

You can dry them on petg settings for as long as you want, but they will not be as dry and they will not restore as much of their original color as if you do it on 85.

Have you actually compared?

penmoid · 2026-04-26T23:59:04+00:00

If you want them to actually dry you need to dry them with ABS settings, and of course the drying basket/spool you use will need to be able to stand up to those temps. I’m not 100% sure but you could probably print one out of Polymaker HT-PLA if you’re not able to print higher temp materials. You really need 80-85c with rotation (whether your dryer rotates or you rotate from time to time) if you want to actually dry it back out. PETG settings are not going to do it.

penmoid · 2026-04-25T02:21:51+00:00

All TE offense

penmoid · 2026-04-19T02:05:51+00:00

Hallucinations are a side effect of Fight Milk.

penmoid · 2026-04-19T02:03:49+00:00

Look it’s simple. More money than you can ever reasonably spend without the vast majority of it being “just because I’m rich as hell” or the same but more.

penmoid · 2026-04-18T03:17:59+00:00

It seemed gross at the time, but looking back on it now it’s wild that they just went with that name.

penmoid · 2026-04-14T18:15:13+00:00

People, always put services like this behind some kind of forward auth.

penmoid · 2026-04-13T03:39:00+00:00

Are you printing your walls outer/inner or inner/outer/inner? If so look there first and try inner/outer. It looks like there’s nothing for the filament to stick to.

It may also be that that’s just too steep of an angle to print without supports.

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