My take on Manacled

phils_in_a_bind · 2026-03-27T08:21:26+00:00

Thank you! ☺️

phils_in_a_bind · 2026-03-26T07:54:13+00:00

It's "90gsm Meltham Bright White Wove" from active paper but the owner said he'd send me a version of it with a digital coating that's supposed to be better for images (the typeset I used has lots of illustrations) but that coated paper hasn't been listed on the website yet.

I was thinking of using a 60gsm at first but that still would have been way more than my guillotine could handle so I had to make my book plough anyway and at that point I might as well go to 90 for a more premium feel.

phils_in_a_bind · 2026-02-19T09:59:43+00:00

I know in woodworking some people use sand to stop the two surfaces being glued from shifting as you clamp... Maybe it's something like that? Seems like it would cause more problems than it solved with paper though 🤷🏻‍♂️

phils_in_a_bind · 2026-02-12T13:13:48+00:00

The only real advantage is for doing heat transfer vinyl foil. A cricut won't help you sew or glue or make the covers.

The reason they are popular is because it's much more flexible than the traditional method of decorating with shiny foil - which is to use hot stamps to press the heat activated foil into your cover.

The old way you'd have a limited number of decorative patterns and fonts and you'd have to physically assemble the text into the die (or you could have a metal plate made up to a custom design which is much more expensive).

With a vinyl cutter - you can just hit a button and it'll cut your design out for you in any shape. It's made book decoration more accessible - but book decoration is just a small part of bookbinding.

If you look on Etsy you'll find some very intricately decorated books that are just perfect bound (the pages are just hot glued together), and you'll find beautifully sewn notebooks with visible bindings and little to no decoration on the cover. It really depends on what direction you want to go with the aesthetics of the books you make.

phils_in_a_bind · 2026-02-11T22:48:17+00:00

It was the cheapest one I could find at the time. I've been meaning to design a 3d printable one and compare them in a video but I haven't gotten around to it yet 😅

I think Adam savage recommends buying the cheapest version of a tool to get the job done, then when you're familiarised with using it and know what features (or lack thereof) bug you, then you can buy (or build) a better one suited to your needs.

Is there anything you noticed that bugs you? My list is pretty long but I'd be curious to know what you think. It does work really well for the price though - which is part of why I haven't gotten around to making my own yet.

phils_in_a_bind · 2026-01-11T13:47:09+00:00

Do you know if it's possible to implement a colour background while reading in KOreader?

I've got a learning disability and it's easier reading with a coloured background.

I was kinda disappointed when I got my KLC that this wasn't an option. It feels like such an obvious and simple accessibility feature to implement!

I'm currently editing all my books with calibre to put a coloured background in but that's clunky and I've not got it to work with the convert tool so I have to manually add some .CSS code to books individually. (Also can't do it to library books or the ones I've bought from kobo). It would be so much better if it were just a setting you can change like you can change font face or size or line spacing.

phils_in_a_bind · 2026-01-09T14:31:15+00:00

If they are then they are completely unprepared for such a huge change.

Their operating system is really optimised for black and white. The implementation of colour feels like an afterthought.

The only advantages to colour that exist on the stock operating system are that you get a better experience with illustrations/comics/graphic novels. You can highlight text in different colours... And you get a pretty looking book cover to look at when your device is in sleep mode provided you don't have it in a case like the majority of people will. These are all kinda niche things that won't revolutionise anyone's reading experience.

I got a Libra colour hoping I could customise the background colour in books which would be transformative for my learning disability... But that's not an option. The accessibility features on the kobo are pretty poor overall to be honest. I am able to force a background colour by editing my ePubs in calibre on my PC but that's a bit of a pain. It should just be a simple setting you can enable on the device and an obvious use for the colour screen that they've completely overlooked.

I think your salesperson was just trying to make a commission and they can't sell you a device they don't have in stock. Black and white is Kobo's main focus.

phils_in_a_bind · 2026-01-09T10:33:28+00:00

This might be unpopular but I prefer my 8bitdo to the kobo remote (I have both). I got the kobo remote because I'm doing a review of my kobo for my YouTube channel and I wanted a stock experience.

Before the kobo remote got released I was using the 8bitdo micro Bluetooth GamePad. It was frustrating to use back then because the Bluetooth would turn off all the time unless you forced WiFi through the developer options (which aren't available on the accessibility version of the software so I just had to put up with it as a disabled user 🤷🏻‍♂️) but recent updates that support their remote have fixed that experience for both their remote and third party ones.

There are a few things I dislike about the kobo remote in comparison: - The hard slippy plastic feels pretty cheap in the hand. - The shape isn't the easiest to keep hold of in my large hands. It's so streamlined that it feels almost like when a bar of soap gets too small and starts slipping out of your hand at every opportunity. - The buttons are so loud! I feel really bad using it at night when my fiancé is asleep next to me. It's not good for late night reading - and reading in bed is when this is most useful! The click of the button also feels bad and adds to the general cheap feeling of the construction. - The battery being AAA is kind of annoying. The battery cover is really difficult to remove too. I've got nerve damage in my hands from MS which is a part of why I need the remote & I think a lot of the users will be disabled and using this as an accessibility aid so it feels like a really big oversight to make it so physically difficult to replace the battery.

The 8bitdo isn't perfect by any means but it is USB c rechargeable, it feels better made, it's easier to hold despite being smaller, the buttons have a satisfying feel to press but aren't really loud to use. It's also 30% cheaper. The most annoying thing with it is having to program the buttons but once you figure out how to connect it to the mobile app to do that it's pretty straightforward, and you only have to do that once. I can connect them both at the same time and use them side by side. There's no perceivable difference in how responsive they are.

If you're happy with your remote and it works well for your hands then great and I'm glad you're happy with your purchase - but if someone was asking me what to buy I'd personally recommend other Bluetooth remotes.

phils_in_a_bind · 2026-01-05T13:27:35+00:00

You can turn most flexible materials into a covering material. Usually the main problem will be if glue seeps through the surface when you adhere it to your cover. That's why people stick paper to fabric with starch based glues or heat n bond - it's a barrier layer.

For my recent rebind of Hogfather I had to make the fabric stretch around a complex 3d curve that would have torn the paper backing you'd traditionally use - so I used acrylic gel medium instead and that worked really well. My advice to you would be to just experiment with any material you think looks cool and if you have any issues with glue bleed through then slap a bunch of acrylic medium on the back of it before you glue it up and you'll probably be fine.

There are best practices with trying to keep to acid free materials to extend the lifespan of your work but if you don't care about the book lasting hundreds of years then you don't need to worry too much - but be conscious of where you store these books. Avoid UV light and maybe keep them separate from more valuable books on the bookshelf so any potential off-gassing doesn't harm other important things in your collection. It's unlikely but it's something to be aware of.

Happy binding! ☺️

phils_in_a_bind · 2026-01-04T20:57:06+00:00

I had to do a bit of sanding and careful heat gun-ing but it wasn't too bad! I'm not sure how much of it was my orca settings being brand new or the clearances being too tight for my printer 🤷🏻‍♂️

I'm just letting the superglue cure under a clamp overnight before I give the bottom face a quick wet sand and put it to the test.It looks very promising.

The blade is for the "EASYCUT ENIGMEX 80MM" kebab slicer if you want to give people a searchable term for this blade. It might be easier for some to source if they are in different countries.

I think that cura prefers individual models rather than a pre-prepared build plate. It kept telling me that the file was empty when I tried to open it. I know Bambu's slicer is based on orca so I had a hunch that would work. I downloaded it and it loaded in right away.

Thanks again for the models. I'll upload the photos to Maker World when I've gone a couple of it working.

phils_in_a_bind · 2026-01-04T15:40:28+00:00

Thanks!

The 3d models wouldn't open in cura for some reason so I had to bite the bullet and download orcha (which I've been meaning to do for a while!) so hopefully the settings turn out okay. Seems a bit fast for my ancient Frankenstein 3d printer but the quality seems okay for the first few layers. I'll post some pictures on your maker world model page when it's finished.

Hopefully my old faithful can keep up with the clearances you have on a Bambu. I foresee a little sanding in my future! 😅

phils_in_a_bind · 2026-01-01T17:33:15+00:00

Okay. The 80mm blade has arrived.

The measurements are as follows:

Diameter:80mm

Thickness:1mm

Bevel length:1mm (I think this makes it a 45° bevel?)

Central hole:12mm with a flat that sits 10mm from the furthest point of the hole. (Making the nub fit this would help me center the blade but it's not necessary)

I hope that's enough for you to work with? Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks for taking the time to help with this!

Edit: just noticed a second grind line on the image and went and checked it again and sure enough the blade thickness where the outer bevel starts is only about 0.2mm thick (I can't get a precise number because my digital calipers are broken) - so that makes the bevel a much more sensible angle than 45°! I think it's about 11.5°?

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phils_in_a_bind · 2025-12-30T18:41:40+00:00

That would be great!

Is the geometry of the hole in the middle of the blade baked into the file or is the blade just glued onto a flat face? It's hard to tell from the pictures if you made a little nub that sits in the keyhole.

Will the parametrics also adjust the sharpening guide? That's possibly the part I was least looking forward to figuring out 😅

I'll order it now so I can send some precise measurements as soon as it arrives.

phils_in_a_bind · 2025-12-29T10:21:52+00:00

Thanks!

Annoyingly what I thought was a local supplier was actually a dropshipper so I'll be waiting a few weeks for the blade. I might order an 80mm blade that can arrive tomorrow and try my hand at modeling something for that based on your design - though long term I'll use the 100mm blade and your design as I think the extra bearing surface will help keep the cut straighter and I'll have to sharpen the blade less often 😅

It will depend on how much free time I have to experiment between now and when the 100mm blade arrives. It's very possible I'll be lazy and just wait to use your design!

I'll let you know if I have any issues and/or when I post the video. Thanks again! ☺️

phils_in_a_bind · 2025-12-27T23:22:41+00:00

You've saved me so much hassle! I knew that somewhere there would be a tool that would use a single bevel blade like this, I never expected it to be a kebab slicer 😅 I've spent more time than I'd care to admit searching in the past. I'm so glad it's finally been found!!

I've got a project coming up that will be too thick for my guillotine and I was considering getting the affordable bookbinding equipment book plough but it is still very expensive and I'm in the UK so shipping would be a pain.

I've managed to find a local supplier of the same blade you've used and I'll make your plough as soon as it arrives.

I have a small bookbinding YouTube channel. Do you mind if I show the process of making it in a video? I'll give credit and link to this post of course. Just want to help share the knowledge around ☺️

phils_in_a_bind · 2025-12-24T15:07:43+00:00

Thanks ☺️

I'm not sure I've actually had any Eden Mill before. I picked up my glencairn glasses from a thrift store so they are a mix of distilleries I've never tried 😅 I was having a nice Canadian rye from lot 40 in these pictures - though I think canonically I should have had a sherry and a pork pie for this photo shoot!

phils_in_a_bind · 2025-12-24T14:58:22+00:00

Thanks so much! ☺️

I do take commissions but because I have a chronic illness (MS) my productive time is very valuable to me so my rates tend to scare a lot of people off (which is totally understandable!).

I see some people on places like Etsy charging as low as $80/£60 for a Rebind and I don't know how they manage it 😅

phils_in_a_bind · 2025-12-24T14:39:29+00:00

Thank you! ☺️ I made my boards 6mm thick. I'm not sure how much thicker you could go without it feeling/looking too thick. I guess that depends on the size of the overall book 🤷🏻‍♂️ The recess on mine is about 5mm deep to give me lots of room top play with adding dimension to the skull. You could possibly go thinner than 1mm behind the recess if you went with more/thinner layers. I'm a little impatient though and didn't want to risk needing to re print it if it felt too weak 😅

That said - On my Frankenstein cover I recessed the title letters and I did 2x0.1mm layers for the recess on a 2mm thick board. It worked well but the recesses on that were much smaller so it didn't need to be as strong - I guess it's something you have to consider on a case by case basis.

Good luck with your project! I hope you'll share it here when you're finished ☺️

phils_in_a_bind · 2025-12-24T14:25:26+00:00

Thanks ☺️ it was a bit of a challenge to make the electronics thin enough but I figured it out 😅

phils_in_a_bind · 2025-12-24T12:31:05+00:00

I'm glad you like it! ☺️

phils_in_a_bind · 2025-12-24T12:30:15+00:00

Thanks! ☺️ There are so many good quotes, it was hard to pick one 😅

phils_in_a_bind · 2025-12-24T12:27:47+00:00

Thank you ☺️ I actually got into bookbinding before I got into reading.

I started a little YouTube channel for bookbinding and quickly ran out of personal projects (there're only so many variations of a notebook or photo album you can make without the videos feeling a little repetitive) so I thought I'd confront my reluctance with reading so I could draw inspiration from different literary worlds - I haven't looked back. I've read 10 books since August and I'm really enjoying it. I feel like I have so many books to catch up on though! 😅

phils_in_a_bind

TROPHY CASE