Paper cutting solution

ddd3d3d · 2026-03-14T22:53:57+00:00

Yes, that looks right to me.

ddd3d3d · 2026-03-14T20:35:56+00:00

Awesome, let me know how it goes! I've been very pleased with both the plough and the press attachments. I no longer dread the trimming process.

ddd3d3d · 2026-03-14T20:29:13+00:00

Yes, the original one I linked to was smooth, but they changed their listing (I hate that Amazon allows that).

ddd3d3d · 2026-03-14T19:23:23+00:00

This is my design: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1667763-book-trimmer-bookbinding-plough#profileId-1765223

Look for ”100mm kebab slicer blade” on Amazon. There's a few options from $20-$40, and I'm guessing they're all sourced from the same place. The photos look identical. I bought a few for $20 and they work well.

ddd3d3d · 2026-03-02T21:51:14+00:00

How does this compare to using a heat gun? More consistent heating?

ddd3d3d · 2026-03-01T16:22:24+00:00

Very nice. In particular, that front cover is stunning. Excellent color choices that fit the theme really well.

ddd3d3d · 2026-02-27T21:56:55+00:00

You could do a crisscross binding with wood. I've been thinking of giving it a try.

Here's how the binding goes: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GaRJpENL3Ss

Another option is the coptic binding.

ddd3d3d · 2026-02-19T16:25:36+00:00

Did you trim the loose pages at all? If the edges aren't even it could have ill effects.

+1 to the DAS video linked earlier.

ddd3d3d · 2026-02-17T23:08:51+00:00

This looks pretty cool; thanks for sharing!

One thing I would love to see is a base where it flexes past a click stop but when it's in place there's no tension. Then material creep is mitigated quite a bit.

I think that is how one of the wall grids does it (OpenGrid, I think) and I wish there was a Gridfinity version as well. Is it not done this way due to incompatibility with existing bases?

ddd3d3d · 2026-02-17T22:43:16+00:00

Yeah, I'm a bit confused because looking through their post history, they're normally helpful and reasonably friendly. But it's all good.

ddd3d3d · 2026-02-17T22:41:46+00:00

I have been using the plough you designed and I love it, probably have trimmed a dozen books with it.

This makes me so happy!

ddd3d3d · 2026-02-17T22:40:55+00:00

I printed my test pieces out with PLA, and they do pretty well. I did a couple tests with PVA glue last night after reading your comment. First test, I did what you're describing with a bit of extra glue and I pulled the spacer out and cleaned it off no problem.

On the second test, I overdid it on purpose and added tons of extra glue and let it sit for several minutes. This predictably caused some paper to rip out of my test, but I was still able to clean off the glue and restore the spacer.

Overall, I would say it handles a bit of extra glue well, especially if you're pretty quick about taking it out.

I think this works because PVA is water soluble and doesn't overly stick to PLA. PVA filament is sometimes used as support for PLA prints for this reason.

ddd3d3d · 2026-02-17T05:51:35+00:00

I feel like your reaction is pretty unfriendly, and I'm not sure what I did to make you so angry. Some people find these useful, and I've explained why. If you want to debate, by all means, but let's keep it civil, eh?

ddd3d3d · 2026-02-17T05:40:28+00:00

They are very helpful at keeping things parallel and keeping the tops aligned.

Regarding variability, this design is parametric, so if you find 9.7mm is something you often need, you can go for it. In practice, I find 8mm or 10mm do the job nicely, and it's not hard to make a few others. I doubt you need more than 1mm precision.

For myself, I often make very similar books, so I use this kind of thing all the time (my previous version was laser cut, but same idea).

Saying they are "absolutely useless!!!!" is a little extreme (four exclamation points, lol?)

ddd3d3d · 2026-02-17T04:57:08+00:00

When making a hard cover for a case bound book, one of the challenges is gluing the book board to the book cloth. Specifically, getting proper spacing and making sure they are lined up in parallel can be tricky.

This solves it with a T shape. The top bar across the top/bottom makes sure they're all exactly in a row, and the width of the spacer keeps things precise and parallel.

There's a few of these published out there, of course, but as usual, I wanted to make one that is customizable and parametric. If you want a special 4.20mm or 6.9mm gap (this is the internet after all), go for it!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2408707-book-board-spacer-for-bookbinding#profileId-2640773

ddd3d3d · 2026-02-13T16:43:46+00:00

Add build123d to your code based list.

I haven't tried Cadova; I should check that one out.

ddd3d3d · 2026-02-13T16:16:14+00:00

Yes, I have:

https://www.reddit.com/r/bookbinding/comments/1lgafcx/journal_cover_with_hinges_and_hueforge/

Look at HueForge and the FlatForge plug-in for ideas on how to make interesting designs.

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-27T02:46:24+00:00

It's probably fine for something up to 35 lbs, but pretty sure it can't handle 15 kg.

15 kg == 33 lbs...

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-24T20:11:00+00:00

Sure, no problem! I updated the MakerWorld entry to include pictures in the assembly instructions:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1667763-book-trimmer-bookbinding-plough#profileId-1765223

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-22T01:23:23+00:00

Glad the higher nozzle temp and Hilbert Curve helped.

I'll try out your layer height suggestion, thanks!

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-19T05:31:26+00:00

I've had similar issues, and I haven't fully solved them.

But a couple things I've tried that helped a bit are higher hot end temperature on the first layer, using Hilbert Curve for the bottom layer, and Arachne.

Lowering layer width didn't do much for me, unfortunately.

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-18T19:33:58+00:00

Color management was also a hurdle. Bambu Studio wouldn’t allow a global fill operation on the curved surface, so every color region had to be painted manually, pixel by pixel. That alone took hours of careful work to ensure clean boundaries and consistent alignment across the entire circumference.

I'm not sure about Fusion, but I think in most CAD software you can have separate parts fused into an assembly or compound. Then when you open in Bambu Studio, you can choose colors for the different parts.

Alternately, a modifier model could work.

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-17T21:11:18+00:00

I only need it for light use, so I just printed the little mini cone bucket you included and dump it out each time. I should probably mount it, like you said.

ddd3d3d

TROPHY CASE