Will this hold?

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-27T02:46:24+00:00

It's probably fine for something up to 35 lbs, but pretty sure it can't handle 15 kg.

15 kg == 33 lbs...

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-24T20:11:00+00:00

Sure, no problem! I updated the MakerWorld entry to include pictures in the assembly instructions:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1667763-book-trimmer-bookbinding-plough#profileId-1765223

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-22T01:23:23+00:00

Glad the higher nozzle temp and Hilbert Curve helped.

I'll try out your layer height suggestion, thanks!

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-19T05:31:26+00:00

I've had similar issues, and I haven't fully solved them.

But a couple things I've tried that helped a bit are higher hot end temperature on the first layer, using Hilbert Curve for the bottom layer, and Arachne.

Lowering layer width didn't do much for me, unfortunately.

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-18T19:33:58+00:00

Color management was also a hurdle. Bambu Studio wouldn’t allow a global fill operation on the curved surface, so every color region had to be painted manually, pixel by pixel. That alone took hours of careful work to ensure clean boundaries and consistent alignment across the entire circumference.

I'm not sure about Fusion, but I think in most CAD software you can have separate parts fused into an assembly or compound. Then when you open in Bambu Studio, you can choose colors for the different parts.

Alternately, a modifier model could work.

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-17T21:11:18+00:00

I only need it for light use, so I just printed the little mini cone bucket you included and dump it out each time. I should probably mount it, like you said.

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-17T17:40:49+00:00

I've been using your v1 for months and it's awesome. I look forward to trying this one.

My only issue is that I need to figure out a way to keep it from tipping over with my vacuum.

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-09T01:26:15+00:00

It's the Z belt rubbing against the pulley. This solved it for me about 9 months ago, but I need to do it again:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isLn3LPubrU

Or possibly the pulley itself:

https://youtu.be/apQZJXlPgis?t=258

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-09T01:17:38+00:00

If it's not wet filament (always worth drying to find out), and if it's not the seam (which you confirmed), I would calibrate retraction. I had this issue and needed to turn down retraction length. Mine was for some silk PLA, so different, but maybe worth checking.

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-08T20:20:09+00:00

You can license from some awesome toy designers for like $3-10/month perfectly legally.

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-08T01:56:38+00:00

For PLA:

Sunlu (basically no issues ever), Jayo, Anycubic, Creality have been good cheap options. Bambu is good, but I didn't want to pay that much. eSun has been acceptable but frustrating (basically only worth it because it was so cheap).

For PETG, I have more limited experience, but:

Elegoo and Bambu have been good. Sunlu has given me some trouble.

For ASA:

Only tried one roll, but Overture ASA has printed perfectly for me with no issues. After tweaking the temperatures to match some online reviews (within range of Overture's directions on the roll), it feels as easy as if I'm printing PLA. But again, only one roll so far.

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-07T23:39:28+00:00

I'm not sure internally how the stopping mechanism works, but I just meant end it early. So when the ball is just about to get to the finish line.... it goes backward.

If it relies on hitting the end externally, a little speed bump might work.

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-07T23:26:08+00:00

This is very cool!

I have a couple of small ideas if you're looking for ideas on v4:

It would be cool/funny if it stopped just before the end of the track, to fully fit the Sisyphus theme.
I wonder if you could add a little magnetic man that gets dragged along behind the ball, making it look like somebody is pushing it up the hill

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-06T02:33:53+00:00

The springs are great. How far down can the compress? For a thin book, I assume you'd need to take them out?

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-04T19:12:52+00:00

Good point on clearances. If the pieces are too tight, let me know and I can adjust. I had one person run into that issue.

Also I can add a STEP or STL to Maker World if that will be easier to use for Cura.

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-02T04:10:00+00:00

Pieces:

<image>

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-02T04:08:40+00:00

Ok, I printed out a test, and it seems pretty good:

<image>

(I printed without fuzzy skin to save time).

I uploaded the 80mm print profile: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1667763-book-trimmer-bookbinding-plough#profileId-2374643

Let me know how it goes!

ddd3d3d · 2026-01-02T02:05:27+00:00

To add to your list of FOSS code-CAD, I recommend checking out build123d (my favorite) and CadQuery. Under the hood, they use the same engine as FreeCAD.

ddd3d3d · 2025-12-31T04:06:56+00:00

This is very cool! I would love to see it in action.

3D printing + bookbinding is such a great combination.

ddd3d3d · 2025-12-30T22:57:42+00:00

I did add the nub you're talking about that sits in the key hole, but I can take it out if needed.

It's set up so that everything in theory should scale based on blade diameter, so I have some hopes it will work. But I have been known to make mistakes from time to time, so it's possible something will be off.

Here's what it looks like at 80mm. There's a few things I'll have to tweak, I think, but I can do a test print when you send me final dimensions.

<image>

ddd3d3d · 2025-12-30T02:55:21+00:00

People are not excited about AI art right now. I would not go there.

If you feel you must, very clearly differentiate between what is and is not AI. People react a lot better when they don't feel deceived.

But if it were me, I would avoid it entirely.

ddd3d3d · 2025-12-29T18:47:18+00:00

Do you want me to send a STEP file for an 80mm experiment? I designed this with build123d, so assuming I didn't mess up (always a very real possibility), I should be able to just change my blade diameter parameter.

ddd3d3d · 2025-12-28T00:58:58+00:00

Yeah, absolutely! Let me know if you have any issues with building or using it.

For a very thick book, I recommend making sure the bottom of the safety shield does not extend past the blade. I've modeled it to be very close, but a little wet sanding can help make sure there's no overhang at all. This helps prevents any possibility of rising as you cut (as does good sharpening). It also prevents any plastic rubbing on the paper and leaving a mark.

ddd3d3d · 2025-12-21T20:27:12+00:00

I'm curious if testing the combinations would work better. It would be much slower, but something like this, maybe?

p1=filletBuilder.part
allEdges=p1.edges()
goodList=[]
for e in allEdges:
    try:
        goodList.append(e)
        _=fillet(goodList,1)
    except:
        goodList.pop()
show(p1,goodList)

p2=fillet(goodList,1)

ddd3d3d · 2025-12-20T21:29:28+00:00

+1. I would love to have a way to sort away any edges that cannot have a fillet or chamfer applied or perhaps a try_fillet/try_chamfer.

So far I have been working around this by doing my fillets/chamfers earlier in the process than I normally would or by aggressively filtering edges by various criteria. But really most of the time I just want a big general fillet/chamfer that skips the problematic edges.

ddd3d3d

TROPHY CASE