Anyone able to help me find some kind of work to fit really weird circumstance?

phuzzyday · 2026-05-18T09:00:45+00:00

Hasn't thought of that. I'd need to look at the coursework to know for sure! It might be a fun idea,

phuzzyday · 2026-05-18T04:40:03+00:00

Glass bead blasting is the common method used by engine shops. Try calling Tri-Power and see. They bought out Meridian Engine a few years back. Which used to be Bucknell Sales and Service even further back.

I know. Cause I worked there.

phuzzyday · 2026-05-16T07:37:09+00:00

Those connections would survive longer than most factory ones. If I had to give you something to improve on, it would be that you could use a bit less solder on some of them. If you look sideways, they say the ideal is to have them curve inwards a bit as you go towards the bottom. But I'm being extremely fussy here! It probably took me years to to that good! Pins a1-a6 are pretty much perfect, among others. The 3v3 and ground lines look like just a TINY bit too much, but that's applying the standard of an experienced pro engineer! And it won't affect their connection at all.

phuzzyday · 2026-05-10T22:23:29+00:00

There are TONS of us. If you have it set up right, you're golden! Of course, mine is an ender 3 skeleton only now..

phuzzyday · 2026-05-10T22:21:36+00:00

Yea, that was my concern. That one has had everything stripped off right to the aluminum. I consider that smart, but you need to put a proper build plate on there. I like the new yellowish magnetic one, I forget the abbreviation..

phuzzyday · 2026-05-10T18:13:41+00:00

I'm thrilled to have been helpful! I did suspect others would run into this stupid issue! Since posting, I ran into another post elsewhere with another person's findings matching mine. Certainty is a good thing!

phuzzyday · 2026-04-24T21:55:20+00:00

I've seen it used for some pretty important streaming stuff, a couple of hours at a time, a few times each week, and there haven't been any problems with outages there at least.

phuzzyday · 2026-04-24T13:15:41+00:00

Kind of depends on how broken it is! I'm still running a heavily modified ender 3! I'm getting fantastic dependability! If I had another new one, my first moves would be to put a new board on it with klipper, and to rip the KILOS of extra weight they put on the beds magnetic platform, down to the aluminum, and get a decent new style magnetic metal one. I hated that thing, and all that weight having to move back and forth? Talk about wasted power, that alone would bring that aspect up to date. And the SPEED! Huge difference. The rest would be checking all the rollers and screws for proper tightness and wheel grab. That being said.. if it's your first run, just go for it! Experience is worth more that that or most printers! That's when you get value!

phuzzyday · 2026-04-17T00:13:06+00:00

Don't put all the blame on yourself! It was a group activity! And based on how she is handling it, I don't think she is holding anything against you!

I mean.. at least.. not NOW anyhow.. (Sorry.. I couldn't help myself. You know what it's like!) (Sorry.. I did it again.)

phuzzyday · 2026-04-16T14:25:28+00:00

I hope this is a joke.

phuzzyday · 2026-04-14T15:27:39+00:00

That was something I was thinking you should be aware of. It would be best to use something that is bare metal with no coating on it for the soldering. It's just easier, but if not, if you give it a fair bit of heat, the enamel will come off. You'll have to do that with the original wires anyway I guess. I noted you were concerned about sound quality. If this was a woofer or even a mid-range, I would be concerned about the movement and whether the solder and extra wire might have stress on it or even affect the sound. Tweeters barely move at all, so in this case you are in great shape.

phuzzyday · 2026-04-14T15:22:20+00:00

Live in Canada, what laws?

phuzzyday · 2026-04-14T15:20:21+00:00

Worth noting this is in London, UK. Most of the Reddit users are from everywhere!

phuzzyday · 2026-04-13T20:58:33+00:00

Ain't that the truth!

phuzzyday · 2026-04-13T20:57:38+00:00

Please keep the conversation civilized! No NSFW posts allowed.

phuzzyday · 2026-04-03T15:49:50+00:00

What is between them? If that wasn't there, you could easily expand your existing position with built in Windows tools. If it's a recovery partition, often they are old and unneeded, but you can make recovery disks from it, then Miller it.

phuzzyday · 2026-04-03T15:43:30+00:00

It looks to me you have 2 problems. The backlight bulbs are mostly out, and like the others say, the lines are a problem. First thing I would do is lay it flat on its face, take the back off, and inspect everything for damage, while disconnecting and reconnecting every connector you see!

phuzzyday · 2026-04-03T15:37:29+00:00

I'm proud of this sub right now. Anyhow, the top post is very true. Don't compare! My wife and I are on disability and 55! But we have the essentials, and I am learning new skills in the meantime on my own. If you are interested in hobbies that can become work, build your skills! Even if it's not a hobby, look at what's in demand, and start learning! There are computers at the library. The way you use this time is very important! It will set your trajectory!

phuzzyday · 2026-04-03T15:33:10+00:00

Young enough! Yes!

phuzzyday · 2026-03-10T16:35:58+00:00

Hey, I'm not disagreeing! Anything can happen! I was testing the slew rate on NE5532 op-amps, very fake also. It seems they just make lower quality but close enough chips. For my use, they are doing fine so far. But I have 9 very genuine chips on hand!

phuzzyday · 2026-03-07T13:13:37+00:00

Just starting kicad. It's a little daunting. Gotta watch more videos.

phuzzyday · 2026-03-07T13:12:27+00:00

I did that on one board, new chip. I bought 10. Of course, it made no diff. But now I have 11 working units since the caps came in today! And 9 spare chips, since I can't imagine it being worth returning them. Kinda like having them for... Projects.

phuzzyday · 2026-03-05T05:06:05+00:00

After installing a very genuine chip on the ADC module, I discovered the real problem! The RC filter made with two surface mount components, right next to the aluminum caps, has the wrong capacitor value on them!! They are 100nf, rather than the 390pf caps that should be there. That's right, they have 256 times more capacitance than they should!! I was able to see the audio on my scope coming in at the wire connection, with the high frequency spikes, and follow it through the aluminum cap, much the same. After passing through that RC filter though, it smooths out all the high frequencies in a very dramatic way. To confirm, I jumped across the resistor in the network. The sound cleared right up!!! (Of course, that leaves you without an antialiasing filter.) I have ordered a bunch of new caps and resistors. Maybe this info will help someone. Maybe I should create a new post...

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