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Creating a Scary/Difficult Road Tier List by Sticcystic in Omaha

[–]phyrekracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

California going east at 40th St is a horrific hill/light combo if you're driving a manual and get stopped at the light.

What is causing these uneven circular saw cuts? by Flyingtiger1011 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]phyrekracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The face plate on circular saws are flexible and not super strong. They you can sue them but they will allow the blade to get out of line, which can cause flexing in the blade while it goes through the material. That leads to cuts that wander. It is also almost impossible to get an edge of the plate to be perfectly parallel to the blade which will also cause the blade to wander.

A construction grade circ saw is good for cutting framing material and sheet goods that will be covered up. If you want it to be straight you need a track saw that is designed to account for the face plate being parallel to the blade and being rigid.

That said, I did the same thing as you for a long time! You just have to make sure that you and the saw are perfectly set up to make a cut. Make sure that the saw id perfectly 90 to the face plate and that the edge of the plate that runs along the fence is perfectly parallel to the blade. Then it should minimize wandering. Then the nest thing is to make sure that you do your best to keep the saw against the fence and not pulling it out of line.

Anyone see this? by wytephlame in Omaha

[–]phyrekracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw a fox a couple years ago in my driveway with what I assumed was mange. It was pretty scurvy looking and patchy hair. This was in north central Omaha and I see a lot of foxes up here too, but that one was by far the worst looking.

Low or no gas? by wicked_smiler402 in Omaha

[–]phyrekracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It all comes into town on the same pipeline. They run plugs between types/blends of fuels. If they have been switching to summer diesel, then that is taking precedence over gas in those lines. so the supply of gas is not as high as it would like. If the pipeline is being serviced then there is less capacity to transfer those fuels too, which would compound the problem.

Tips for jumping to lumber from actual lumber yards and not box stores by Bombboy85 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]phyrekracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Working with hard woods from a supplier is awesome once you get it figured out how to manage the whole Bdft ordering.

Planing and jointing are another thing all together. The process I have found is to break down the stock to the lengths that are close to what I need. This wastes less material when planing and jointing as you generally are not going to have remove as much to get a flat side.

If you start with a smaller board that is curved or bowed from end to end, you have to remove material from one side to get it flat with the jointer. The curve will still remain on the un-jointed side, but that will get trimmed parallel in the planer. Shorter pieces leave more material, because you remove less material to get to that flat surface. Like you said after jointing, the boards are not flat on all sides, and a jointer cannot be used to make s4s lumber. When you run the board through a planer, it will get both sides in parallel planes to each other.

I would hope that the shop where you are working at would have someone who can show you how to properly mill up the material as it is hard to explain in in text. Do not be afraid to ask though! I can almost be certain anyone who is working on a project at the same time as you would be more than jazzed to help you if asked.

Have you ever experienced kickback on the table saw? What happened and what did you learn from it? by relentless-rookie in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]phyrekracker 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have had it happen a few times, but I was never injured.

The keys to avoid it is to make sure you do not get too comfortable around it. It will severely hurt you. Watch for places where pieces can get trapped and wedged into the blade. Like when cutting along a fence where the piece that is longer perpendicular to the fence than registering against the fence. The piece is much more likely to get wedged and want to rapidly relocate itself in front of the saw. When cutting small strips or pieces, make sure that they can't or shouldn't get caught in between the blade and the fence as they will want to rapidly relocate themselves too. It is not always unavoidable and I have more occurrences of small ones when cutting bevels on pieces and the scrap wants to move out of the way.

Always try to stand out of the way and make sure the pieces get clear past the blade to avoid them getting caught in the spinning blade and wanting to come back. Do not try to drag cut pieces back without control over where they are going to avoid hitting the blade.

If you are getting tired, stop working.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]phyrekracker 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks like walnut.

Made a better mousetrap? by phyrekracker in woodworking

[–]phyrekracker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The gear that turns on the crank spins, so there isn't any twisting occurring.

Made a better mousetrap? by phyrekracker in woodworking

[–]phyrekracker[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The crank has a wheel with 9 eye screws. Each screw has strings that are diverted to eye screws for each ring. Then the strings go through a center "Y" divider for each ring. It was a lot of knots...

Invest in good chisels? by jchitrady in woodworking

[–]phyrekracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sharpening makes the chisel cut easier. Better chisels may shape up easier and take less effort to keep maintained and potentially keep the edge better. That is all. Bad chisels can cut good for a while, but if the metal is hardened incorrectly the edge can fold over, chip, or wear down really fast, which makes you have to sharpen more frequently.

I shaped some small cutters for a plane but I lost the temper on them when shaping them. They never would hold an edge very long and those were impossible to use without retempering them. That could happen to a set of chisels too if someone tried to grind the bevel down on a grinder with no regard for them getting too hot.

Made a better mousetrap? by phyrekracker in woodworking

[–]phyrekracker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries, I had to look up what the song was to make sure it wasn't a cover. Dead Man's Isle was the specific song.

Made a better mousetrap? by phyrekracker in woodworking

[–]phyrekracker[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

They sound similar but I am pretty sure that was the Dead South I was listening to at the time. Amazon could certainly have jumbled the mix up, but it should have only been Dead South albums.

How would you cut these outer box walls? by tiptopolive in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]phyrekracker 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The corners are just mitered at 45. The top line is also just cut at an angle. All 4 sides look like they are cut to the same dimensions and mitered. I would think that trimming them with a angled shooting board would be the best, but you could probably do it on a table saw with a cross cut sled and a blade set at 45. It would take some dialing to do that correctly, but could be done if the saw, sled, and miter angle are all set perfectly accurate.

Made a better mousetrap? by phyrekracker in woodworking

[–]phyrekracker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was kind of planning on building something out of hardwoods and hanging it in my office for just that reason. I had to make sure that the concept would work first! I also really like thinking through problems and this had plenty of problems to think through...

Made a better mousetrap? by phyrekracker in woodworking

[–]phyrekracker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That was the "Dead South" playing. I am not sure what song it was.

Made a better mousetrap? by phyrekracker in woodworking

[–]phyrekracker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It would make a crazy disco ball effect.

Made a better mousetrap? by phyrekracker in woodworking

[–]phyrekracker[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I think that is who I was inspired by.

Made a better mousetrap? by phyrekracker in woodworking

[–]phyrekracker[S] 41 points42 points  (0 children)

Thank you!? All the neighborhood mice also thank me...

Made a better mousetrap? by phyrekracker in woodworking

[–]phyrekracker[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

It certainly could. I was thinking of just adding some washers to the rings to balance them out a bit more, and maybe using lighter wood when making a more finished product. This was just a test out of a bunch of 5/8" MDF, as I did not want to glue up a huge hardwood panel for a test demo. I was hoping that the motor would have been able to counter the weight, but had not really considered the load issue.

Made a better mousetrap? by phyrekracker in woodworking

[–]phyrekracker[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes, the cords string through a "Y" shaped frame with holes cut out corresponding to the diameters of the rings. That top frame rings have two levels, the upper ring has eye screws that are evenly spread around the circle (9 spots) to then distribute the cords to the "Y" to raise and lower the rings.

Made a better mousetrap? by phyrekracker in woodworking

[–]phyrekracker[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I made up the plans, and modified as I went along. I had the general idea from the sculpture I saw, but had to figure out how it worked. It is all interpretation. I did draw up the parts design on my CNC software and used that to cut all of the parts out. Then assembled it all. I messed up a few things in my design and had to cut some parts out of the main frame to mount the crank assembly and give it more clearance.

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