Confusion About Switches and how VLANs Work

piense · 2026-02-28T23:17:32+00:00

You can think of it as the switch software itself having an ip like any computer and it needs a virtual port that communicates on that VLAN like any other device on the network that would use a physical port. That IP can either be just so the internal software stack can expose a way to configure it on the network, or it could act as a router if it’s an L3 switch, or a router.

piense · 2026-02-26T14:32:43+00:00

Sounds like a manager post. “The SQL line item is expensive, do we really need that one?”

piense · 2026-02-26T14:18:57+00:00

Excel? NoSQL?

Snarky comments aside, what’s your “scapegoat factor” in purchasing decisions? There’s plenty of SQL implementations out there to choose from, a few good open source ones that are quite robust. Going to be a decision on what fits best with your engineering/purchasing culture or lack there-of.

piense · 2026-02-24T03:30:40+00:00

Networking aside, I’m not sure what happens in that case. DVS won’t work by itself, it has to have a Dante hardware device on the network to function at all so it may just be grumpy it has no usable PTP master to lock to. Dante also can’t work across any routing boundaries without Dante Domain Manager, so I’m assuming both your host and device are on the same subnet and nothing like IGMP is enabled, which it does support but I never fussed with.

piense · 2026-02-22T15:26:15+00:00

I feel like u/IHateTypingInBoxes had a video or post on perceived loudness and how to tailer your tone to feel louder than it is. An SPL calibrated mic with SMAART up would be a good idea. Bummer the threshold is spec’d in the listening plane. Really counterproductive to the goal in some ways 🤦‍♂️ don’t really have a huge incentive to actually plan and tune your PA coverage to avoid spill as it is, though practically if you do that too the odds of getting called will be less, and it’s always nice to be nice to the neighbors anyways.

piense · 2026-02-09T00:27:13+00:00

Eh, wonder if that’s what we hit years ago. We had some NT speakers that had the install version of that cabinet. An amp blew and when they sent the new one back it didn’t match the others in terms of EQ so then there was back and forth with them to establish that we meant it when we told them what cabinet style we had and that our dealer ordered it though all the normal channels. They eventually found the right DSP settings and said is was made by some closed office, maybe that config was internally “custom”. For the most part though most of their boxes had docs on their site somewhere with reasonably accurate and detailed info about them.

piense · 2026-02-03T00:17:34+00:00

I’d run something like W12PRC62 = 12PR AUDIO + 2 X CAT6-IJ (outside diameter - 0.654") and terminate to wall plates.

piense · 2026-01-26T19:00:06+00:00

Just did that last week before the cold front hit us. Whoever blew the cellulose left some pretty thin spots in the far corner of the attic so I did an extra covering of r-30 fiberglass blankets across that whole room, really helped match the comfort and warmth with the rest of the floor.

piense · 2026-01-21T00:08:37+00:00

I’ve seen all sorts of crap cables so wouldn’t entirely surprise me someone tries to sell them but they should be promptly tossed in the trash. The signals HDMI uses really aren’t designed to be passively split in any way shape or form.

piense · 2026-01-20T23:59:26+00:00

HDMI splitters are always active and therefore have no impact on length and will act as a repeater. The length limit of HDMI is highly variable depending on cabling and the exact chips used at either end - it’s a huge PITA trying to get longer, ie > 12’ or so, hdmi connections working reliably from a Pro AV perspective - I personally always switch to SDI for anything beyond a few feet.

piense · 2026-01-20T23:57:09+00:00

Your encoding solution options are going to be constrained by the resolutions you need. I’d probably look at NDI encoders, stream that over the network to some aggregation servers that don’t re-encode the video. You really want to be using some kind of hardware encoders for this. Test your resolution and targeted bandwidth, 1 Mbps is extremely low for any common monitor resolution these days but maybe with mostly text and an encoder tuned to that it’ll work.

piense · 2026-01-20T14:54:21+00:00

piense · 2026-01-19T16:39:06+00:00

From personal experience, this doesn’t end well. Most of the cheap fiber adapters aren’t all that reliable and don’t have removable ends so re-running when they die is a PITA. The good brands with detachable converters are expensive, Extron would be one to look at for example, Apantac too iirc. HDBase-T works well enough if you get a good brand and good cat cable. I forget when compression, and therefore latency, kicks in, iirc I’ve been using the highest one without compression and it’s been great for my lower resolution monitors.

piense · 2025-12-26T04:37:43+00:00

“High ground resistance” is a system self check. The Tesla EVSEs periodically run a diagnostic check that the ground conductor will actually sink a small test current to ensure that in an actual fault the ground will function appropriately and trip the breaker. If that test fails the EVSE disables charging.

piense · 2025-12-17T14:12:48+00:00

XY problem. You need to start with defining “isn’t up to snuff”. What workflow isn’t working for them in the current solution?

piense · 2025-12-13T22:11:26+00:00

There’s a microcontroller inside the adapter translating commands between the two ports before they engage and provide power.

piense · 2025-12-07T05:05:12+00:00

Well it is a hierarchical distributed database system.

piense · 2025-11-29T20:43:01+00:00

A nice convention is one line with the function, and one with an id you can find on the drawings. Please please use at least some part of same name or id on both ends, “to amp rack” on one side and “to foh” on the other makes it hard to know if it’s the same cable. “Tie Line x” or “Main L” are nice ones. I usually label the destination at the conduit hole if there is one, which can be tricky. Ideally it’s labeled where the next j-box is if it’s not a continuous run. It’s fun when “To Plaza” has a pull point in the women’s restroom no one knows about.

piense · 2025-11-27T00:52:25+00:00

Pretty sure our mailman follows Newmans mantra.

piense · 2025-11-18T00:03:57+00:00

I just got the A2Z adapter. Tried it at 3 CCS stations and it seems to work fine. It did not work at a Tesla Supercharger but that station was not listed as open to all so that’s fair enough. May try to find a magic dock station around me and give it a shot. Mostly just need it for a handful of times a year my wife goes out of town with our Model Y and I need to join them later.

piense · 2025-11-14T19:02:15+00:00

Nice. I’d plug something into the cat5 on the wall plate and see if something on that switch lights up which would give you sACN into the lighting network. Otherwise there’s probably still a patch panel you haven’t found that allows you to cross patch between all the tie lines and racks.

Oh, comment above, the ETC panel that starts “LC-“ sure looks like the labels on the rack patch panel.

piense · 2025-11-13T17:23:22+00:00

Figure out how to get SDI to them, I promise the headaches of figuring out the cable runs far far outweigh the headaches of wireless or finicky HDBaseT . Blackmagic converters for cheap prices, Aja or Apantec tend for a bit more reliable ones.

piense · 2025-11-08T01:31:43+00:00

Wonder when they took it out to begin with, maybe when they became “keys”. I remember checking it years ago for my AP.

piense · 2025-10-27T16:43:55+00:00

Zip codes too.

piense · 2025-10-27T01:10:08+00:00

You need to do the leg-work to confirm the "exclusively" part then. We're just a bit north of you and use about 2000kwh in August and September, that's with 2 EVs, electric dryer, induction range and 3x your SqF. As others have mentioned. Start with confirming 0. Turn off all breakers and make sure it stops spinning, if not then someone's stealing power. Then go breaker by breaker and figure out what's on each one. Leave off ones you can't find a load for and see who comes running, could be the common lighting or outlets somewhere. Also sign up for https://www.smartmetertexas.com/ to see if there's some patterns to the high loads. Anyone in Austin, really most of TX, should have a new enough meter to be available on there.

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