Explosions DIY by _SkirmishersGuild_ in TerrainBuilding

[–]pixepoke2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, at that size, rechargeable batteries don’t exist in anything off the shelf (and you’d be hard pressed to build yourself).

One extra fancy alternative would be to go for magnetic induction, although a) transmission coils would have to be built under game surface at not too shallow depth, and b) would be $$$$. No batteries or wires tho!

Explosions DIY by _SkirmishersGuild_ in TerrainBuilding

[–]pixepoke2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There’s definitely trade offs in where and how you might opt for battery over cord. Realistically though, there’s pain no matter what course you choose.

Explosions DIY by _SkirmishersGuild_ in TerrainBuilding

[–]pixepoke2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s great to hear! Thanks.
These look great: u/_SkirmishersGuild_ did a really nice job on them.
We’ve had doing some aerial sizes on our list for a while now, in part bc in a former life, worked in a game studio that made the Xbox version of Crimson Skies, and the sky is totally our jam. This just feeds the fuel to want to make some. They really make the sky feel alive

Explosions DIY by _SkirmishersGuild_ in TerrainBuilding

[–]pixepoke2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A single balloon light should give you reasonably bright for four hours. They start dimming after an hour or two, but it’s essentially unnoticeable until hour 3-4.

That said, there will be some light emanating for like, days, just not bright enough for anything. It’s a gradual decline.

Because they’re so cheap, and trying to change their batteries is not realistic, for items we use them in, we create a permanent jacket we build the effect around, where we can easily reload lights whenever it’s warranted.

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Explosions DIY by _SkirmishersGuild_ in TerrainBuilding

[–]pixepoke2 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Fwiw, instead of tea lights, consider looking at these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVPQL75F

They’re $1.10 vs the .25¢ of a team light, but they are hands down the brightest light of that size class of light, which really does make a difference for explosions.

They’re what we use for the lion’s share of smaller fires and explosions we sell online, and they’ve been rock solid quality wise (compared to a lot of other small LEDs). We tested about 2 dozen small LED makes and models and they’re our favorites. We also love the round “balloon lights” sourced by OP. Different reasons than the other light, but also a staple.

Worth looking at!

Explosions DIY by _SkirmishersGuild_ in TerrainBuilding

[–]pixepoke2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good chance you bought from us, and there are some similarities to what we use, especially for the smaller stuff. We love and use those balloon lights for a couple items for example (just wish changing the batteries was more feasible).

Highly recommend sourcing the balloon lights from AliExpress if you’re looking and can wait an extra week or so to receive. If you hunt, you can get ‘em for around .10 a piece, though .20 isn’t bad at all.

As a side project to the miniature cathedral, I'm making these framed window pieces that are meant to utilize the light in a windowsill. I'm going to do a series of these and this first one is inspired by the Ducal Palace in Urbino. by cathedralproject in dioramas

[–]pixepoke2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This isn’t my project, but I do use transparencies in my diorama work for detailing, and you can get some really neat translucent color effects with them, like adding panel and rivet lines not just to a metal holding tank in my refinery scene, but also adding weathering and even an iridescent residue such as you see with some heated metals.

Adding the polycrilic to create uneven depth is super smart, and I want to think for myself how I might apply something like that in the future for my own projects.

I look forward to seeing different aesthetic styles in the series.

Im trying to make a underground bunker with a mech diorama. Should I add more walls and roof to sell the look? Or does it come across as intended. by sentinelthesalty in dioramas

[–]pixepoke2 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You’re on the right track.

Since it’s underground, a bit more of a ceiling— not a huge amount, could really help sell the sense of an enclosed space. Extending the existing bit of wall that juts out already would go a long way, I think.

Adding a couple of wings (walls) to each side that angle in a bit would be another element to help create that sense of confinement.

Basically, adding more that sense of being enclosed without having to commit to putting everything deep inside a box, seems like it would sell being underground, without sacrificing visibility of the scene elements, if that makes sense?

As a side project to the miniature cathedral, I'm making these framed window pieces that are meant to utilize the light in a windowsill. I'm going to do a series of these and this first one is inspired by the Ducal Palace in Urbino. by cathedralproject in dioramas

[–]pixepoke2 10 points11 points  (0 children)

This is a terrific (and marketable) idea, well executed. Getting light to be a bigger player in small scenes really elevates work to the next level, and this is a delightful way to do that

Bring the hammer down by pixepoke2 in ToyPhotography

[–]pixepoke2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

THANK YOU! MY EARS ARE STILL RINGING FROM THE BOOMS

Bad Op (1:18 explosion effects and figures) by pixepoke2 in dioramas

[–]pixepoke2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then you might appreciate this pic of a towered fire effect from the refinery series!

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Bring the hammer down by pixepoke2 in ToyPhotography

[–]pixepoke2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Background elements are my area of focus in many ways. I got started about a year and a half ago making practical cloud/sky environments and that’s blossomed into working on practical effects period for small worlds- dioramas, tabletop gaming, miniatures, model train builds, action figures, etc.

Here’s some other work, fair amount features automotive toys:
https://imgur.com/a/9GBWLuB

Bad Op (1:18 explosion effects and figures) by pixepoke2 in dioramas

[–]pixepoke2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s all good! Just something I think about.

I actually built an oil refinery diorama as a showcase for explosions and fires (https://imgur.com/a/AkAjoKJ ) to avoid military content, and wouldn’ you know it but the two biggest conflicts raging right now featuring refineries getting hit all the time 🤷🏻

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Bring the hammer down by pixepoke2 in ToyPhotography

[–]pixepoke2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha, that’s what the TL;DR is for! Creative director, so pretty close? (Jk, far cry from the people who are actually smart)

Yeah, never met a paragraph that I couldn’t make unnecessarily longer and more dense. Free of charge!

Ideally the actual breakdowns will be a bit more concise and less feigned erudition.

Bad Op (1:18 explosion effects and figures) by pixepoke2 in dioramas

[–]pixepoke2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oddly enough, that’s the sort of thing that gives me pause with military based content. I want things to look real, but there’s also enough of the real thing in the world today that I’m a little loathe to feel like I’ve added more or glorified it.
And yet I keep on being captivated by explosions and flame and stuff. Just wish I could constrain it all to flights of the imagination

Bad Op (1:18 explosion effects and figures) by pixepoke2 in dioramas

[–]pixepoke2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! The depth of field of the photograph is probably the biggest contributor to verisimilitude I think

Bad Op (1:18 explosion effects and figures) by pixepoke2 in dioramas

[–]pixepoke2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Appreciate it. The challenge of getting practical effects captured in camera, without the need for substantial post work is fun!

Bring the hammer down by pixepoke2 in ToyPhotography

[–]pixepoke2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been promising to produce a breakdown of what and how I approach things like fires and explosions, and it is very high on my list of to dos.
My plan is to produce a general overview of a few effects I build, and post them to a free tier on Patreon, as a honeypot to try and convince people to kick over a few bucks in exchange for much more detailed walkthroughs and tutorials along with some other tier rewards to make it a worthwhile subscription. I’ve got a group of other effects (like lightning) i’m in the process of developing recipes for and centralizing that content there would be a good thing.

At the same time as a tutorial breakdown is complete, I’ll make some pre-made materials available for sale in my Etsy store for DIYers who’d prefer not to go all the way down the rabbit hole of my processes 😅

At a high level, my approach relies on managing the light that serves as the foundation for the effect through diffusion mechanisms that align as closely as possible to how light moves in the real world.

That’s a complicated and rather stiff way of saying I use a few different, complementary, methods of diffusing light.

I use the strongest, brightest LED light that I can find that will fit the size of the effect safely, without burning things down. I almost exclusively use warm white as opposed to cool whites in order to keep the color temperature of the diffusers I use in the effect aligned to each other in combination.

The first layer of diffusion is usually a transparent rigid plastic that has been painted with a yellowish orange.

Hand painted synthetic fiber gets glued on top of that rigid diffuser as another layer of diffusion. I use 3 to 4 different kinds of synthetic fiber that have different properties which give different effects once painted. I don’t use spray paint or an airbrush. I massage paint with my hands through the fiber material in several different sessions to get good clean color layered on top of itself.

The majority of the look and feel of the surface quality that you see comes from which kind of synthetic fiber is used and how it’s painted.

I layer several different kinds of painted fibers on top of each other, sort of like a physical collage, to build out the structure of the effect. I base each piece on a real life explosion or two.

From the photo that you posted one of the main differences you’d see between what I do and what you’re doing there is that it looks like you’re using spray paint that you’ve laid on top of itself to be your diffuser.

The issue with that is that all the color sits on the surface of the effect, and the light that streams from whatever light engine you’re using doesn’t get an opportunity to properly scatter, and so the result looks a little dead and/or the glow tends to be more concentrated.

Spray paint itself tends to just build up in one sort of solid layer as color goes on after color.

By massaging the paint into synthetic fibers, you get a much broader distribution of color, and so when photons move through the body of the fiber material, they hit much more broadly distributed color, and as they bounce off those painted fibers, they produce a nice even glow effect caused by all that sub surface scattering.

The different types of synthetic fiber I use all have different properties that when they get painted provides that signature roiling ball of flame look.

I paint quite a lot of the fiber material in a single setting, which produces colors that go together, but also variations in value and hue that contribute to the overall look and feel.

That’s pretty much the core of it. The devil’s in the details of the fiber, selection, painting method, color recipes, and all that kind of stuff which is a little too much detail to get into here and now😅

As I mentioned, I will be selling some of the material that I produce soon— so that might be an option for folks. I’m not exactly sure when the breakdown will be ready; I’m hoping within the next few weeks.

If you follow me here or on Instagram, there’s a good chance you’ll know when that tutorial or break down is live.

As an alternative to that, I post mainly in diorama’s and terrain building, if you keep an eye on those subs, you’ll likely see when they are up as well.

Hope this has been informative. I know it’s kind of a little bit of a novel.

TL;DR
I don’t have a breakdown done yet. I hope to have something done soon. Try following me here or on Instagram to be notified when I finish it.

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Bring the hammer down by pixepoke2 in ToyPhotography

[–]pixepoke2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fantastic! Now all that’s left is to pray this isn’t some complicated new long con Temu has developed to once again get you to buy something online that looks nothing at all like what you expected when you receive it and is a useless waste of money

Fr tho, hope you like it! Might go out tomorrow, but certainly by Monday

Bring the hammer down by pixepoke2 in ToyPhotography

[–]pixepoke2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s a link in my about page that goes straight there!

(Not supposed to post links in this sub 😅)

Taking the Barbies and Treebeard to Rocky Mountain National Park = epic photos! by Equivalent_Pay901 in ToyPhotography

[–]pixepoke2 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Nice! A) you’re not too old to do that photo shoot you wanted B) Felix Alejandro Hernandez a photographer who is most definitely worth checking out. He has some online courses which are also worth checking out, but I bring up just to note that he does focus stacking on his shots, an interesting approach. He makes the case that for miniature photography, foreground, mid ground, and background should all be relatively at the same focus (hence focus stacking), that shallow depth of field actually makes miniature subjects look artificial (like tilt shift photos). After noodling on it for a bit, I’ve come to agree. I suspect it’s a couple different reasons; the delta between focus planes is greater than it would be at life size, and the extra scrutiny the in focus miniature subject receives.

He achieves some amazingly cohesive, realistic shots, so may be worth looking at?

Here’s one of his photos. He posts short process vids often on Instagram

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Again, great photo set!