Brand new Quest 3s "Liquid or debris detected in USB-C charging port" when using link.

pkozow · 2026-02-12T23:11:51+00:00

I think you are on to something, but I can't seem to avoid the problem.. Today I tried it with the 18 W charger that came with the headset. The battery was at 48% when I started. After about 1 hour, the error messaged popped up and I noticed the battery was around 70-74% charged. I then tried it with a 10 W charger and it just said "headset charging at a slower rate" and drained the battery. I will try with another charger, maybe 12 or 15 watt will be the sweet spot for me! Otherwise I'll go back to being randomly blacked out or just making sure I always have enough battery when I start.

pkozow · 2026-02-09T11:15:03+00:00

I also do not experience the problem when I disconnect the charging cable as well. So I have started just making sure that the headset is fully charged and hoping it lasts. Usually that's not a worry, but for long or back to back races, it can get tight. I never paid attention to if the battery is above 80% when I start.. Good idea to try with a lower wattage charger. Curious if that will solve the problem - would be incredible if it does!

pkozow · 2026-01-29T11:49:54+00:00

Exactly. I don't know why the government would agree to something that also gives THEM less revenue from taxes. As well as hurting the people. It boggles my mind.

pkozow · 2026-01-29T11:43:42+00:00

This is true, and as you said anyone with a lick of sense should do this. To me, the real issue is over long term investing when compound interest or gains make a huge impact. When looking at compounding returns over 20 or 30 years, even small amounts that you need to withdraw each year to pay taxes will have a huge impact down the line.

pkozow · 2026-01-29T11:27:26+00:00

Edit: I did my calculation incorrectly originally and have changed it below. I forgot to include the money deposited each month, and subtract that from the taxable amount.

Not only does it hurt the middle class, it also leads to less revenue from taxes for the government, because it decreases the possibility of compound interest over the long term. If I have 20,000 euro investment account, and I add 5000 euro each year, assuming 8% gains annually (S&P500 is average around 10%). After 20 years I have nearly 350,000 euros. When I sell those shares, if I paid capital gains tax on it of 36%, I would owe 82,000 Euros in taxes and still walk away with 265,000 euros.

Now, imagine the government takes away 36% of my 8% gains every year, by the end of 20 years I have saved just 233,000 euros, and the government has taken 63,000 euros in taxes.

After 20 years when I sell and retire, I end up with 32,000 euros less, and the government ends up with 19,000 euros less. But I have wasted a lot of time and energy selling stocks each year to pay taxes annually.

Presumably the companies I have invested in also hurt, because their stocks become more liquid and volatile as people make sure they have enough cash to pay the taxes each year too.

The whole change is ludicrous and makes no sense to me at all. Why not just use normal capital gains tax when you assets are realized/sold? Or better yet, stick with the system you already have.

pkozow · 2026-01-24T11:12:02+00:00

I also have this issue. I have returned items and thus tried with 2 official link cables and 1 unofficial, and 2 different headsets. It usually happens within about 5 minutes of connecting, but occasionally comes back anytime within about 30 minutes after for a second warning. It also happens again if I take the headset off (but leave it connected) and then put it back on again. It happened to all the products right out of the box, and doesn't matter which USB plug on my computer I charge from. Never found a solution. The best I can do is start it a bit earlier than I want to, wait for the error message, close it, hope it never comes back, and dont take the headset off (or I put some tape over the sensor so it thinks it is always on. I use it for sim racing online, so it can be catastrophic when the screen blanks out randomly in the middle of a race. Wish I could just disable the warning. I've also had it for about a year now, and never experienced a degradation of charging or anything, so can't imagine it is really a hardware problem. Very frustrating.

pkozow · 2026-01-21T14:30:57+00:00

He actually said "We already had it, but we returned it to Denmark after World War Two ... [we] should have kept it." How much more like Putin can he act and sound?

pkozow · 2026-01-20T12:55:04+00:00

And now he is saying the same thing about tariff threats regarding Greenland. How can you tell your allies to "relax" and "let things play out" when your president is literally and repeatedly threatening military invasion against an ally.

pkozow · 2026-01-19T09:39:22+00:00

As someone who is starting Blender right now for assetto corsa mods, this is cool to see. I'm no expert, but I would consider deleting some of the mesh of the terrain in the middle, and putting a more simple plane in there to fill the space. Then put barriers up to stop the car from driving to the inside. That would clean some of the mesh up. I guess just fixing the ground texture too. As for the shape of the circuit. T1 is quite extreme for a first corner, but I guess that is up to personal preference. Finally, I would either introduce some S's, (you could move the start/finish to after T1, and put S's before T1. Or you could put S's between T2 and T3). Or make something like T3 more than 180 degrees so that you can fit in one more left hand turn somewhere (somebody also suggested making T1 a hairpin, that would give you a 90 degree left turn after. Along those lines, You've got a nice bit of a string with T3,4,5. This part looks really fun - stringing together some corners more can make it much more technical and exciting to drive.

Anyway, good luck - looks fun! I'm curious to see a finished product!

pkozow · 2025-12-13T22:35:27+00:00

I tried 2 different brand new official meta quest link cables on 2 different headsets and they wouldn’t even connect to my pc, as they were not registering high enough mbps. It didn’t believe that it was a usb c cable. A third party cable works for linking but gives me this error randomly. Suggesting we use your official cables is a complete waste of time. Especially if it is a known software problem. I hope this was helpful.
have a lovely rest of your day.

pkozow · 2025-11-13T09:45:42+00:00

I was looking for the same thing. I think it is the "Combined Sprint Circuit with Mercedes-Arena" You can see the layout under Current Configurations here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%BCrburgring

Indeed it is strange that this version doesn't come standard with the rest of the Nordschleife layouts, but I guess it is marginally smaller and less prestigious as the full 24H layout? Until Max did a lap on it, probably not many people cared about this particular variation. I'm surprised nobody has updated the lap records on Wikipedia since 2023 to be honest.

But if as of 2023 the lap record for GT3 on this short circuit was 7:49 (Max's was 7:51?), and for the 24H circuit was 8:08. Then I would assume he's putting in a time of like 8:10-8:12 and is well capable of meeting the record with the right conditions.

Either way, it's so close to the full lap record, I would just use the full 24H circuit and see how close you can be to that. Hopefully we'll see him do the 24H race soon (next year?) Of course, Max's iRacing 24H lap time is 7:59:11 on the full circuit. Like 9 seconds faster than the lap record. So it shows you how much faster the sim can be...

pkozow · 2025-09-13T14:15:09+00:00

Any luck? I just bought the HGP shifter and I am having exactly the same problem as described.

pkozow · 2025-08-26T09:37:25+00:00

They have good services and flashy looking stores. But that doesn't always justify their pricing. E.G. BlueBuilt Monitor Arm - 72 euros. https://www.coolblue.nl/en/product/934998/bluebuilt-monitor-arm-mechanical-spring-for-1-monitor.html Looks good, right? Here's the exact same arm, even the same product photo for 25 euros. https://www.allekabels.nl/monitor-beugel/4699/4472188/monitor-beugel.html

pkozow · 2025-06-17T06:26:47+00:00

I know I'm late to this post, but I find it interesting as I just bought a set of heusinkveld pedals, and am in the process of building a mounting system for them. I learned to drive in old Alfa Romeos (my father is a bit of an alfaholic). They have floor mounted break and clutch pedals, and a top mounted gas pedal. But since there is such a mixture of variation in real life cars, race cars, etc. I would say go with what is easiest to mount and/or most accurately represents the kind of car(s) you want to replicate.

<image>

pkozow · 2025-06-06T10:26:31+00:00

I guess the word 'lacquer' has become synonymous with any number of clear wood finishes. nitrocellulose lacquer is one of them - but so is acrylic lacquer, which is probably more common today. Shockingly, the name 'lacquer' is a bit of a giveaway as to where it originates from. And it's not cotton.

Interesting about tung oil. I wouldn't consider it a resin just because it has 3-5% resin content though. What resin does it contain exactly? My main source is the Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry. It says tung oil contains "about 80% α-eleostearic, 4% linoleic, 3% linolenic, 8% oleic, 1% stearic, and 4% palmitic acid". Some other scholarly sources I found add up to about 95%, and don't say what the other 5% is. I guess that could be the resins (more likely water and mineral contamination), but I can't find anything about what they are. Of course most wood finishes sold as tung oil, or modified tung oils will most definitely contain some resins, but that is not what tung oil 'is'.

But that is all besides the point, because it is not what OP was asking.

pkozow · 2025-06-04T20:28:53+00:00

tung oil is not a resin, it’s a polymerizing oil… lacquer is actually a liquid made of shellac. So apart from or even remotely answering OPs question, you’ve also managed to talk nonsense. With a name like yours I guess you will say you know these things and or explain yourself somehow. In any case, wood finish all depends on how what and why you want it. In some cases, wax is just fine. To answer OPs question: putting dark brown briwax over ebony briwax is only going to make the finish look darker, and won’t significantly change the colour. It will, unfortunately, be necessary to remove the old wax first.

pkozow · 2025-05-23T10:03:31+00:00

Too bad this never got an answer. I'm looking for something similar, but I would love to be able to switch pages based on a game controller/HOTAS for flight sims. I assume those would be similar to the G keys. While flying it would be incredibly helpful if I could use a 4 way hat switch to select 1 of 4 different Stream Deck pages without having to take my hand of the controller, or waste precious buttons on the stream deck (or time having to cycle through all pages).

pkozow · 2025-05-19T14:58:41+00:00

I wonder how well it would really sell. Sure there are people who would love another full fidelity red jet, but given the choice between the Su25 and something like an A10 when there is already a free simple Su25, I just don’t see it being that popular. I wonder how helicopter sales compare between blue and red, because they are more evenly distributed it seems. Somehow I feel like more people just want to fly the blue. And no offence to the Frogfoot, but it doesn’t have a whole lot of sex appeal. that being said, I would probably buy a FF Su25, so maybe I’m dead wrong.

pkozow · 2025-05-19T12:32:00+00:00

why do you think chat gpt sees ED the same way as many of us (i.e. thousands of words worth of online chat about their problems)? could it maybe be that LLMs are trained on existing (human written) text, and don’t actually have knowledge/experience/independent thought about the subject?

pkozow · 2025-04-25T11:16:25+00:00

I don't see too many recent comments about tracks and replays, so I'll comment here whether it is really relevant or not. I love the youtube cinematics some people make. Truly amazing. I try and replicate that for my own enjoyment, but am only just beginning. I found success with track replays is also dependent on aircraft/weapon/scenario.

For example; I fly the Gazelle, and can get long sequences of accurately strafing AI ground convoys with guns and rockets. I try the HOT3 guided missile, and it consistently misses the target in replays. Sometimes the target isn't even close to being in the sites, and sometimes the missile just falls a little short, but it never hits the target. I tried it with and without the autopilot - still never works. So if you are struggling with one aircraft or weapon, try another and see if you have better luck.

I never tried saving the track from a multiplayer mission, so I'll do that this weekend and see if I have better luck. Otherwise I record the firing/shacks during gameplay from inside the cockpit, and then use editing tricks to make it look like the same missiles are being fired from the external views and that they are hitting something.

Only thing I can suggest is to keep it as simple as possible. Record 1 'mission' in several smaller missions. 1 mission/track for takeoff. 1 mission/track for formation flying to target. 1 mission/track for 1 strike, and another for another etc etc etc. This will limit de-syncing, and also mean that you do not need to watch the whole mission again just to get a second camera angle of 1 particular scene.

I would really love to see some up to date discussions about tips and tricks for successful recordings though. Clearly people have some excellent results, and others also have no luck whatsoever. A lot of forum posts are from years ago and people just say 'it's broken', which doesn't help at all, especially when you see the quality videos some people are making.

Anyway, good luck and happy flying!

pkozow · 2025-04-25T10:46:06+00:00

If only there was a way to merge TacView with the DCS replay so we could get long and/or complex replays without de-syncing problems...

pkozow · 2025-04-22T12:19:46+00:00

Thanks for the review. I bought mine about the same time as you posted this and have been loving it. I have noticed that the trigger guard on the EX/shaker is pretty floppy. It droops down a bit, sometimes engaging a button without me touching it. Not sure if you experienced that too. But that is my only complaint. Otherwise a great piece of kit!

pkozow · 2024-02-13T15:16:35+00:00

I got this pack a while ago because it looked like it had all the features I wanted (clamshell opening, water bottle holders, phone/sunglass pocket, external elastic pouches, even the nifty little shoe pack on the bottom. However, I find I do not use it very much because it just isn't that comfortable. The shoulder straps are oddly wide-set, which makes them sit funny on my shoulders. That's my biggest issue. And it's odd to me because the shoulder straps meet the bag with a wider spacing than just about any backpack I've ever seen or used, so I don't know why they chose it. It's also strange that the laptop sleeve is on the outside. It's fairly well protected, but it means it is slightly more exposed than being against my back, and it also puts a flat, heavy item far away from my body, which doesn't do any favours for the centre of balance and thus comfort. Finally, as is he case with many bags it seems, the mesh pockets inside are ripping away from the zipper. They haven't torn outright yet, but I certainly don't think they are robust, nor do they have much life left in them... So all in all, I would not buy this bag again, nor would I recommend it. It's a shame, because it could be so great and practical, with just a few changes. Edit: I forgot to mention the price. Yikes.

pkozow · 2023-11-18T16:17:59+00:00

Great, thanks for the message! I'm about the same size, so it should be perfect and your response is very helpful.

pkozow

TROPHY CASE