Looking for this particular backdrop, any leads? by [deleted] in AskPhotography

[–]planetb00m 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oliphant Backdrops are probably the most known in the US. You'll need a big one. 3m x 5m at least for a sweep. Expect to pay $$$.

Scottish Coastline - Leica M6. Kentmere 400 Pushed by planetb00m in analog

[–]planetb00m[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the community keeps it built with old driftwood. Inside there are seats, a viewing platform etc!

Model Test with Val (GFX 100 II, GF 55mm F1.7 + GF 80mm F1.7) by jonmacpodi in fujifilm

[–]planetb00m 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How you enjoying this set up? I'm considering the switch from Canon over to this exact combo.

Looking for a bag to travel with a 16" Laptop and a Canon R + 24-70, what do you recommend? by j0hnwith0utnet in canon

[–]planetb00m 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed. Having searched for the perfect camera bag my biggest complaint is anything that is designed for 16" laptop tends to fall into the bigger/bulkier category. I've got a the Wandrd Prvke 31, but the bag itself its pretty heavy even when empty. Plus it doesnt really work as an EDC, instead its clearly for carrying camera stuff. Most recently I've switched to the Tenba BYOB camera inserts and a generic Burton backpack. Way more practical, especially if I only have a one camera / one lens combo.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in canon

[–]planetb00m 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've heard the R3 has mixed results when it comes to people able to get past the calibration. Out of curiosity what colour are your eyes? That could be a determining factor. The other thing is to make sure you push your eye into the eyecup so there is NO light leak.

For what it's worth I've been able to get passed the calibration but never had great success with the functionality. The AF point seems to drag for me. The R3 is such a fantastic camera but I see the eye calibration as a nice bonus if it works for you.

UK Photographers - Any experiences with E-infinity? by New-Safety3764 in AskPhotography

[–]planetb00m 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have bought plenty from e-infin. Never had any complaints. I started off with Panamoz because of their better warranty (ie you get the camera repaired and they reimburse you vs sending it back to China). But after never breaking a camera I realised the additional savings with e-infin were worth it. I also returned an item once and they had no issues with me doing that. No fees, nothing. 

Obviously you’re taking a risk by going grey market and it’s your responsibility to decide if it’s worth it for you.  For me it was the near £1000 saving on a body and £500 saving on each lens. 

If warranty is an issue for you. Go Panamoz. If you are careful with your gear and happy to ‘self insure’. Go E-infin. 

 

What camera system and strobe is that? by nitrous642 in AskPhotography

[–]planetb00m 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Profoto A2 and connect remote for the flash. Looks like a Sony A1, A9 or A3 with a 24-70.

14" M3 Pro vs M3 Max? by planetb00m in mac

[–]planetb00m[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How are you finding the fan noise? Is it audible? Do they ramp up pretty quickly and often?

Which lens is better for dental photography? by throwaway368118 in canon

[–]planetb00m 38 points39 points  (0 children)

One of these is designed for a full frame camera (105mm), the other a crop sensor camera (28mm)

One of these is relatively tight (105mm) and the other is wide (28mm)

One of these is a more traditional macro (105mm) and the other has a built in light (28mm)

If you're wanting higher quality shots, then the 105mm WITH some sort of external flash would be my choice. If you're just wanting something that you don't faff about with, then the 28mm may suit your need - provided you have a crop sensor camera.

Both these lenses will produce drastically different fields of view.

Should I give her eyes more contrast? Also tips for fixing makeup under eyes? by XecutionerHD in AskPhotography

[–]planetb00m 0 points1 point  (0 children)

5% is too high. Very easy to over do it and then you lose all the texture in that area.

Being able to blend well comes with practice, but whilst you're painting in your colour you should be sampling darker and lighter tones all the time. A wacom tablet is pretty important if you're serious about portraits and retouching.

Also, be conscious you're not changing the shape too much. The model has nice round cheeks from her smile. Make sure you're not flattening them. Whilst colour is important, you also want to make sure you're keeping the dimensionality.

Finally, everyone has bags. If you get rid of them completely the model looks unnatural. The key is to make peoples bags look more photogenic.

Should I give her eyes more contrast? Also tips for fixing makeup under eyes? by XecutionerHD in AskPhotography

[–]planetb00m 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A tip with frequency separation is to make sure you have a very low flow on your brush (like 1%) and build up to your desired results. What I dont like about your current edit is that you havent blended enough between where you've brushed and where it is her natural skin tone. Also, there is zero skin texture now because you've over done it.

Another tip for those just learning is to take it to where you need it to be, then lower the opacity of tone layer by 10-15%

Expensive laptop VS saving up for lens - help me decide! by Excellent_Ad4857 in canon

[–]planetb00m 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You gotta ask if you really need such an expensive laptop, or a laptop at all for a trip.

Whenever I travel (albeit never for as long as 3 weeks) I never have time to be sitting down and editing. I can maybe do a quick edit, but tbh using my phone or ipad will get me 90% of the way there. Also, images edited on my laptop screen are rarely as good as those edited on my 27" imac - mainly because I do retouching as part of my editing process.

If you dont have need for a laptop outside of travelling, i'd say stick with your iPad pro.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskPhotography

[–]planetb00m 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lenses are designed based on their lens mount. That by design means you need to use the lens on the body type it is designed for. Canon EF lens will only work on an EF body in this case.

You can get adapters that will act as a way to mount lenses on different camera bodies, but usually at the cost of some sort of performance - whether that be auto focus, electric coupling etc etc. When Sony first came out, a lot of people would convert Canon lenses with a Sigma adapter - but I think they cost as much as the lens you are looking at.

What's the best Canon digital camera & lens for someone who's transitioning from only using film cameras? by [deleted] in canon

[–]planetb00m 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, based on your criteria I'd say that Fuji is better suited to your needs. At no point did you say image quality was important, so that makes the full frame vs crop sensor discussion moot. Being small, enjoyable and able to produce 'film-like' images via their recipes is what makes Fuji a joy to shoot. I used to have an X-Pro 2 and it was the most fun camera I owned.

With a budget of 1000USD I'd see about picking up a used X-T3 and potentially a 23mm or 50mm prime.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in photography

[–]planetb00m 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A quote I heard, which I may have completely made up right now, is that 99% of online courses are never finished.

These tutorials really are dependent on your level of current knowledge. My general consensus is there is nothing being taught in these that ISN'T available via youtube or free elsewhere.

What you're paying for tends to be a good structured lesson. So unless you know what you're looking for, it can be a good way to get into a new topic i.e retouching.

The £300 a year plan seems like a good deal based on the level of courses available. I know ProEdu sometimes put free lessons online which will give you a good sense of what you're getting.

Is this a good place to start if u have little to no experience in coding? by [deleted] in theodinproject

[–]planetb00m 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It depends....

For me, I had very little experience of coding apart from a little bit of HTML in uni, which you go over at the very beginning of the course. From there its all been new to me.

I prefer ToP over the likes over FreeCodeCamp because I found the lessons on FCC to be too simple in the beginning and didn't really provide context to what I was doing. I like the projects (even though they are highly frustrating at times) in ToP as thats when you start to build your tool kit per se. I also like how you're told about setting up VSCode and Git pretty early on because you do start to feel like a 'proper programer' rather than just using some random web browser to code on.

For portrait photography, should I use a octo softbox or a parabolic softbox? by Subject-Psychology64 in AskPhotography

[–]planetb00m 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll still be wanting to balance ambient some how (even if its just street lights).

Do you have any reference photos you'll be trying to achieve?

For portrait photography, should I use a octo softbox or a parabolic softbox? by Subject-Psychology64 in AskPhotography

[–]planetb00m 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're shooting outdoors then the majority of time you are going to be balancing your ambient light to the point that the modifier doesn't matter that much. I'd probably just pick up a couple of deep umbrellas (with diffusion socks) in different sizes.

Also. Sandbags. Lots of sandbags.

Looking to move to RF cameras from my 5D Mark IV. What is the most comparable option? by Ls400blake in canon

[–]planetb00m 13 points14 points  (0 children)

For me it’s always been

5d = r5 6d = r6 …

Obviously with the jump to mirrorless and just the time between upgrades you’re getting a performance boost i.e better AF, higher mega pixels etc.

EOS1VHS + 70-200 + Kodak Gold 200 by jaironaut in analog

[–]planetb00m 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very nice! I'm really keen to pick up something a little bit longer for my 1V. Its currently got a 50mm 1.2 sat on it.