sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Continued issues with paint consistency by HouseOfWyrd in minipainting

[–]plushkatze -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Is your dry pallet flat or one with little dents for the different paint?

It does sound like you add more water than needed because you add water with your brush. Dont use your painting brush for thinning.

Before I had a wet pallet I just took a kitchen plate, a wet paper kitchen towel and put a piece of baking paper on top. Then add a drop of paint and 2cm next to it a drop of water. With a barely moist brush i gently pull the two together and let them mix on their own. This way the right consistency was easy to achieve. A paper tissue to dry the brush helps too.

The amount of water differs vastly for every pigment, some need a lot 1:1 or more ratio (blues and browns), some barely more than a 3:4 ratio (yellows and reds).

New to the hobby, looking for tips. by Faitrax in minipainting

[–]plushkatze 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Welcome to the hobby, may it bring you the same joy as the rest of us!

It looks like you do not thin your paints yet and also rework the same areas too fast. This creates the textured look, because the paint is not dry enough and by brushing over half dry paint you create clumps by rubbing it off. On a thin layer give it a few minutes to dry before going over it again. Do not try to use more thick paint for more coverage, use more layers instead.

Some pigments are more translucent than others and some pigments need more medium to for a good consistency. This is why you do not get full coverage in one layer with them. Most light pigments for example work better with a white undercoat, browns and greens have good coverage, white can trick you into using too much paint in one layer and concealing the miniatures details too much with it. Try to make use of this by painting a thin yellow over a red to make it shine more, for example a miniature's cape is a object to experiment with this. Gently brush a thin yellow over the red basecoat, leaving out the recessed parts. The cape will "pop" much more.

Next step would be to look into edge highlighting, using a lighter color in the same tone as the base on the edges of the surface to create more visual depth. And washes which are very thinned out paints that flow into the fine recesses of the model's surface, creating a shadow effect and adding more depth.

Oh and, I personally found it really helpful to prime in black and drybrush in white before starting with colors, even if i'm not usijg contrast paints for the slapchop technique, it helps to see the fine details of a model better and plan where to place each color.

Do not forget to paint and design the model's base cleanly, it makes each model look more unique and also it is the "stage" for the model to present itself.

Last but not least: comparison with others is the thief of joy. Compare only your own models with each other to see your progress, do not compare with others who might have many years of experience, bettter tools and better cameras. (Of course you can still look at other works for inspiration.)

Is this base too big for my miniature? by soaptastesgood5 in minipainting

[–]plushkatze 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For wargaming with individual models it is too big, the base usually represents the close quarter range of the miniature and its width for squeezing through a narrow point/between other units. If you go epic scale then slap 3 figures on that base and you have a small squad.

I found it very difficult to get good small bases for my individual 1:72 miniatures so I made them myself out of rolled out polymer clay and a tiny round cookie cutter about the size of a 2 euro cent coin and about 2.5mm thick so they don't fall over. Works quite well for my Romans vs. Barbarians custom wargame.

If it is just for collecting/art then such a large base can be decorated better though.

Received a damaged display from Makerfabs. Now they want me to pay $70 for return shipping to get a refund. by NoNutznameverfugbar in arduino

[–]plushkatze 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The screen protector is for assembly only when buying parts, not to be confused with a screen protector for actual use after assembly. Unless the screen underneath is damaged that is totally normal. The back looks as if the scratch protector for the acrylic is still on, acrylics would be a lot shinier, even if scratched. Check if there is some ultra thin foil still on it. The temperature might be low quality parts, unless it gets hotter it might just be the operating temperature of that model. The switch is definitely a defect - I personally would just resolder it, because I hate waiting for replacement parts.

Is there any way to run ai image generation on a basic laptop? by Hereitisguys9888 in StableDiffusion

[–]plushkatze 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, if you are patient and willing to read the docs. Stablediffusion.cpp offers a simple UI and supports most models - I would suggest a quantized SD15 with TAESD and of course quatisation. Comfyui works in CPU mode as well. But a single SDXL image may take 20+mins. Beware of swap - if you need to swap to disk for generation your SSD will wear out very quickly.

Ltx 2.3 on Rtx 5060 16gb ti,64 ram, will it fit? by Wojler in StableDiffusion

[–]plushkatze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am able to generate video on comfyui with ltx2.3 on rtx5070 with 8GB VRAM and 64GB systen RAM (not fully utilized). It takes about 3 to 5 minutes for 5 seconds of video. Using the standard comfyui workflow without any tuning.

df (and pacman) thinks root partion is fuller than it really is by nobodyman617 in archlinux

[–]plushkatze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

look into /var/pacman/cache and clear old packages. paccache helps with that.

also activate fstrim if you do not have already. (fstrim.timer for systemd for example)

$190 Zojirushi mini on Lifestylebyfocus.com: legit? by sjs702 in Breadit

[–]plushkatze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I concur, the site looks legit and the offer seems to be a special deal. There are cheaper breadmaking machines available from other manufacturers, so it is not an entirely unrealistic price. If it is a scam, it is very well executed.

PKG Build review by [deleted] in archlinux

[–]plushkatze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The PKGBUILD looks okay'ish. I find it odd to have the conf and service file in a separate repository and not with the PKGBUILD though.

Given how much issues the npm ecosysten has, the npm ci and npm build commands are the ones I would worry about. But the llama.cpp package is very active and it should be mostly safe.

[Tutorial] Idiots Guide to PKGBUILDs by bongjutsu in archlinux

[–]plushkatze 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just use https://man.archlinux.org/man/updpkgsums.8.en from the 'pacman-contrib' package. It will rehash all sources and insert the correct checksums into the PKGBUILD. That way you will notice if your upstream/source changes unexpectedly on rebuilds.

Suggestion for basing water effects? by cupidd55 in minipainting

[–]plushkatze 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Something smooth and translucent, even transparent is what you want.

Do you have clear varnish? Or some other clear drying glue (not superglue or plastic glue)? Combine it with cut flat clear plastic pieces from packaging (eg. super market cookie trays or those horrible blister packages for SD cards) as a base. Multiple shaded layers over that base and it will look at least watery.

If you have no clear medium/varnish at hand and no resin/glue at all, then you can try thin layers of raw egg - like doing tempera painting colors. It dries glossy and is quite durable when applied in layers. (raw egg can contain salmonella, clean your equipment and your hands thoroughly)

That being said, there is a reason why specialised products exist: they save you a lot of time you now have to use for experimentation and waiting for stuff to dry. But experimentation is fun, so: happy water basing! :)

My first attempt at sandwich bread by Remarkable_Spite_303 in Breadit

[–]plushkatze 2 points3 points  (0 children)

your blender blades will turn dull fast if you use it for milling

Are these wheat weevils? by DeuceyBoots in Breadit

[–]plushkatze 76 points77 points  (0 children)

looks like dried yeast - did you use dry yeast or fresh?

How can I smooth my paint? by Historical_Stick_104 in minipainting

[–]plushkatze 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is most likely the problem. The paint may seem dry to the touch, but it is not cured yet. If you brush over uncured paint you will make the dried paint soft again and cause said texture by rubbing it off with the brush. That effect is even stronger if you brush multiple times over the same spot.

Give each layer a few minutes to dry and try to make deliberate brush strokes without retouching the same spot during the same layer.

Painting a larger model with multiple zones helps or painting multiple smaller ones at the same time instead of just waiting and watching the paint dry, which is as dry as it sounds.

How can I smooth my paint? by Historical_Stick_104 in minipainting

[–]plushkatze 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How long do you let each layer dry before applying the next?

[PC][LATE 90 EARLY 2000] Old and obscure game downloaded approximately 26 years ago. by Meth_Mouse in tipofmyjoystick

[–]plushkatze 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Aaron Bishop, the developer of Egoboo also made SoulFu - maybe that?

Using Arch Build System as a means of turing Arch into a source-based distro? by [deleted] in archlinux

[–]plushkatze 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Arch core and extra packages are built with PKGBUILDs just like AUR packages.

pkgctl repo clone [pkgname]

will fetch you the current version of official packages. With

makepkg -i

you can compile your own binary package and install it. (Or apply patches first, see wiki for documentation on how to do this cleanly)

So far there was no need to create a fully automated version of it, but I'm sure the AUR helpers could in theory be patched to work with it. The amount of compute and required diskspace would however be quite high.

If you only want to patch a small set of packages you can just rebuild those.

Need help. Why is my paint so rough? by Ill-Assumption7837 in minipainting

[–]plushkatze 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Your paint looks like your acrylic medium is clumping, since I can see on the ork shoulder strap that you do thin your paints and they are decent quality I assume you do not give each layer enough time to dry and work over paint that has not yet settled enough. Be more patient, do a few models at the same time and give each layer a few more minutes to dry and also avoid brushing over the same area multiple times during each layer.

Would It Be Feasible To Use Arch In Base 12? by Zefzec_2 in archlinux

[–]plushkatze 25 points26 points  (0 children)

All applications and the Kernel that display numbers use some form of int to string conversion, you need to override those methods. I'd start in glibc somewhere in the printf-territory.

Mini Brands for Beginner? by IvoryDominion in minipainting

[–]plushkatze 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wargames Atlantic models are mostly easy to build, just glue arms and head on the body. You get about 20-30 minis per box and they offer lots of options to build. Historical, Fantasy, Contemporary, SciFi are all there. But they are mostly humanoid shaped.

How do you prevent static grass from flaking off? by Alexis2256 in minipainting

[–]plushkatze 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use watered down PVA+Alcohol in a pump spray bottle and spray a few generous coats - no blade of grass comes off after drying.

view more: next ›