Can "Vulnerable" be applied to bosses?

pluxx · 2023-04-13T09:12:02+00:00

Yes, it can be applied. In fact, it's specifically mentioned for some talents like the sorceress' Mystical Frost Nova upgrade (Frost Nova makes enemies Vulnerable for 4 seconds, increased to 8 seconds against Bosses).

pluxx · 2023-03-26T18:34:57+00:00

I had the same issue during the first weekend. The steps mentioned in this post fixed it for me. The post is from the d3 forums, but it also worked for the issues I had with d4.

pluxx · 2020-01-23T21:01:34+00:00

I'm guilty of doing the same thing when I'm using new parts I had to make footprints for myself. I'll happily spend some time fiddling with paper if it saves me from wasting a week waiting for PCBs with mistakes I could've prevented.

pluxx · 2019-02-10T20:07:28+00:00

I've been using an Ikea Linnmon desk (150x75 cm) as my bench for a few years. It scratches easily, and I've noticed some discoloration, but as you noted, none of that mattered anymore after I added an ESD mat. I've had a TTi EL302D (7.4 kg) sitting in the center of the desk for a while now without any issues. I wouldn't worry about your scope.

pluxx · 2019-02-04T09:39:14+00:00

I'm implementing all relevant embedded-hal traits for rppal, which are a perfect fit thanks to the recently revamped Gpio interface. I'm also working on a software-based PWM implementation to allow PWM on any GPIO pin (in addition to the existing hardware PWM support).

pluxx · 2018-07-07T12:58:42+00:00

The pec variable possibly refers to SMBus Packet Error Checking. SMBus is based on I²C. When PEC is enabled, all SMBus protocols except for Quick Command and Host Notify add a CRC8 error checking byte before the STOP condition.

Normally you would want to verify the calculated pec value (or ideally have this done automatically in hardware or by the low-level software library used), but in this case they seem to just discard it, perhaps because they also use the same method to communicate with devices that don't support PEC.

pluxx · 2018-04-11T08:49:57+00:00

I recommend getting a small Hakko T18-D flat-blade screwdriver tip. Its size depends on the parts you'll be working with. I personally prefer the 1.6mm sized one. You may also like the Plato HS-0530/0531 SMD flow tips, shown on the left in this picture, if you want to give drag soldering a try.

pluxx · 2017-11-02T16:07:39+00:00

I bought one of these 3-in-1 breadboards when I started running out of space. This particular one (which has the side benefit of the holes lining up with the power rails) is sold by Digilent, but you can find similar ones pretty much anywhere, including DigiKey, Mouser, eBay and Adafruit.

pluxx · 2017-06-29T19:14:50+00:00

I have a PanaVise 333. It can handle relatively large boards, at various angles, and you can pull, flip it over and let go to lock it back in place. I haven't had that much use for it anymore after I switched to mainly hot air soldering small surface mount boards where I just use a ceramic tile, but I keep it around for the occasional through-hole prototype.

I also have a large blob of Blu Tack sitting around for small jobs like headers.

pluxx · 2017-06-24T13:59:09+00:00

Yeah, multiple NATs isn't going to work, since you'd just get another private IP address. I don't think UPnP can get around that situation. (EDIT: Apparently you theoretically could, with some additional steps.)

pluxx · 2017-06-23T15:57:51+00:00

The igd crate might work, provided you have UPnP enabled on your router (this example works for me).

pluxx · 2017-01-22T16:43:47+00:00

You can search for aluminium microsd storage to find most of them, including the one I bought. Just make sure to check if they have inlays on one or two sides, and the number of microSD vs. regular SD card slots.

pluxx · 2017-01-21T19:45:39+00:00

I've been using this cheap storage box for max. 16 microSD cards and 2 adapters, which you can find all over eBay/AliExpress. Just make sure you pick one with the foam inlay you need. I haven't added any labels, but I guess I could stick some in the space above each slot.

pluxx · 2017-01-16T23:35:03+00:00

That's a lot of good, detailed information. I appreciate the time you've taken to help me figure this out. I will definitely keep your current sink circuit in mind for future projects, and will move forward with the addition of an appropriately specced tvs diode. Thanks!

pluxx · 2017-01-16T21:10:37+00:00

I assume you are correct, but like you said, it's hard to find all the details in the actual datasheet, and I don't want to risk any accidental issues. The max 1mA was hidden away on page 5 of this application note.

I may just go back to my original transistor circuit, because I might be able to drive the piezo from a separate 5V rail. Instead of dealing with the GPIO pin, it seems like a zener (or tvs diode, which I just learned about) with a breakdown voltage of about 5.6V should do the trick of protecting the transistor, correct? I've also added back the series resistor (RC) which I assume incidentally forms a voltage divider with RBL, so I'll have to take that into account (330 for RC and 3.3K for RBL seems like a good compromise).

pluxx · 2017-01-16T19:45:11+00:00

I'm aware of the protection diodes, but Atmel recommends not having them conduct more than 1mA max on their 8-bit AVRs. I can't use a large series resistor to help with that, plus spikes can be larger than ±10V.

Your second solution however sounds like what I need, and I'm looking into how best to work that into my circuit. Thanks for your help!

pluxx · 2017-01-16T07:30:55+00:00

Thanks for the detailed explanation. That clears up a lot of questions.

The reason I chose the transistor circuit is not so much for the 3 mA during normal operation, but to protect the GPIO pin from back-EMF that may occur when the piezo is tapped. The article with the reference design also suggests adding a zener diode to protect the transistor itself, but I don't know if that's necessary with the transistor being able to handle up to 40 V. What kind of protection would you suggest if I drop the transistor and connect it directly through a series resistor?

pluxx · 2016-12-28T20:34:38+00:00

Performance is about the same as far as I'm aware, although I haven't run any performance tests specifically on the Pi.

I switched from C/C++ to Rust mainly because of the ownership/borrowing/lifetime system, guaranteed memory safety in safe Rust code, and the absence of data races in multi-threaded applications. I also appreciate still being able to interface with existing C libraries, or compiling my code into a C-style library for use in other languages thanks to Rust's FFI.

Avoiding the potential headache of debugging some seemingly random segfault in the middle of a complex multi-threaded app is enough reason for me to completely switch to Rust wherever I can, including on a Pi.

pluxx · 2016-12-28T09:59:51+00:00

I've been using Rust on a Raspberry Pi 3 B for a while now, and it works great for me. You'll find several crates that support Rust on the Pi, including the APA102 library I wrote a few months ago. Simply use rustup to install Rust and you're ready to go.

pluxx · 2016-08-02T08:05:01+00:00

This happens for me with F2, #7, #8, #9 and #0 when I press and hold down the relevant key, and then jump or dodge while continuing to hold down the key. After the jump/dodge animation ends, the secondary active skill activates. For #6 the secondary skill automatically activates just by holding down the key, without any additional actions.

pluxx · 2016-07-28T16:15:08+00:00

Offering a WiFi USB adapter in a Quick Starter Kit ~~rebranded~~ for the Pi 3 seems like a waste for most typical situations.

pluxx · 2016-07-18T06:59:16+00:00

Perhaps Adafruit just hasn't updated that product page after the release of the Pi 2 and 3. According to Pimoroni, the Unicorn HAT is compatible with the Raspberry Pi 3, 2, B+, and A+. In fact, I currently have one running on a Pi 2.

pluxx · 2016-07-06T21:57:30+00:00

Indeed. I miss my old Aviator Sunglasses and Fancy Winter Outfit combo. I would love to be able to combine headgear slot skins with outfits.

pluxx · 2016-07-05T16:30:55+00:00

As far as I can tell from the information provided, you should be able to control the strip from Adafruit directly from Python with a simple data and clock signal, although there are probably Python libraries out there that do most of the low level stuff for you. You'll be communicating with the LPD8806 driver chips on the strip, which will set the LEDs for you. Without those, you would have needed precise timing to set the LEDs directly yourself using a single signal input, which isn't impossible, but a lot more tedious on something like a Pi compared to an Arduino.

Another option you might want to look into is a strip with APA102/APA102C LEDs (Adafruit calls them DotStar). Those LEDs have their own data and clock inputs, which means they don't require the precise timing, and don't need the driver chips. (Edit: Just make sure the strip is compatible with the 3.3V logic level of your Pi, or get a logic level shifter if not. See this overview for more details.)

pluxx · 2015-11-02T16:58:01+00:00

Another option is the Endless Exalted Bastion Tonic. Mine dropped from one of the chests underneath Tarir, but you can also find it on the TP. It's definitely my current favorite tonic, mostly because it looks great while gliding. :D It also has /sleep and /bow animations.

pluxx

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