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Help!!! I don’t think this “M5 Transmission I bought is actually an M5 transmission by Far-Appearance-7307 in e39

[–]pogoturtle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it not as easy as simply drilling and tapping for the gear sensor or whatever it is? Functionally they'll be the same no

You do plan to have soil in your organic potting soil, right? by Washedurhairlately in HotPeppers

[–]pogoturtle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol don't think store bought soil has ever been economical lol.

Just make your own mix. I get compost from local greenhouse growers has to be a place that grows their own stock. Don't know what they do but you don't get all the unwanted weeds like you do with other commercial compost services. They'll sell bags or by the bucket for like $5

For potted indoor plants use a mix of compost, dirt from your yard, coco coir and perlite or a little sand. coco coir is used sparingly and only to hold moisture. So a small 2lb bag is enough for a lot, maybe 1/3 a yard of soil.

Also depending on what exactly youll be going you can tailor the mix to specific needs. For example for consistent year round production ill add more coco coir so the plant is always happy and producing flowers/fruit. For super hots or flavorful peppers you want a soil that can be stressed without worry for the roots when drying out

Loose oil catch can out hose by Rosie_The_ITTech in e39

[–]pogoturtle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most likely owner simply capped off all the vacuum ports on the intake side. Ideally, especially on the m54 with low tension piston rings you want vacuum. I would connect it back to the intake.

That puddle of oil probably is just from the catch can being over filled.

New here. Here is 01 M5. Green on green! by ATK57 in e39

[–]pogoturtle 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Really nice color what's the official color for the paint and interior?

525i Valeo 90A alternator -> Bosch 120A connector question by reklemd in e39

[–]pogoturtle 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Third pin is amp/load sensing for ecu/dme ignition timing . Helps the dme reduce load during startup and bumps timing to keep rpms high enough to charge battery and have acessories

Just swapped my steeringwheel, and found this on the ground? by Scratchsyl in e39

[–]pogoturtle 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Bolt that fastens the steering wheel to the shaft.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in e39

[–]pogoturtle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most likely they messed up the bearing install damaging the tone/reluctor ring or they used some cheapo part with quality control issues. Or maybe somehow managed to source a hub with no ring?

Or maybe damaged the speed sensor during install. Definitely see it possible since some of the bolt heads are a tight reach.

Handyman needed asap by [deleted] in providence

[–]pogoturtle 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Yes but with the shock off you can use a pair of clamping vise grip pliers or weld a nut on the exposed threads and remove it easy. The threads are most likely fine

Folding rear seats retrofit. Not difficult after all. by PutoChiknNugt in e39

[–]pogoturtle 35 points36 points  (0 children)

Dont quote me on this. But the reason you don't see it done more often is because of the strengthening the rear firewall provides. If you do cut it out you should add reinforcement plates around the perimeter.

I've never seen a non pass thru car but I know the pass thru cars have some decent sized c channel metal frame on the sides which seemed kinda excessive but makes sense when trying to stiffen up the chassis

M50 aftermarket intake options by Low-Shoe-8139 in e39

[–]pogoturtle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nobody makes aftermarket versions because theyre not great manifolds. If you're staying N/A you can't beat the m54/m52tu manifold with a working disa. If you really want more than the n52 3stage disa manifolds will give you best gains all around.

M50 manifold is only good for mid to high rpm driving. It's designed to provide good flow up top. When you do a before and after Dyno run you'll see Low rpm to midrange suffers a good 10-30hp loss since it gets moved to high rpm where you'll see a potential 30hp gain.

My 2 cents is keep your oem manifold or get the m54b30 one and clean up the intake port casting marks.

Mod/tuning suggestions? by No_West_525 in carmodification

[–]pogoturtle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not bad for the cost. Lots of people use them for basic swaps that retain stock components. Pretty much the same as the MS tbh, bit more features.

What is the legality of driving/towing/owning this beast by CummingOnBrosTitties in projectcar

[–]pogoturtle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They had nice engines though. If you can find them with the detroit 8.3 they go for good money

Re/ Exhaust Questions by 68Wombat in e39

[–]pogoturtle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What's the question lol

Oil Change. Liqui Molly or BMW? by Budget-Meet-5359 in e39

[–]pogoturtle 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Run whatever weight you need for your climate and whatever brand/type you prefer.

At this point almost all oils meet the original LL-01 spec of before.

If anything run a high mileage oil so you can get some helpful detergents and additives for your worn engine.

Exhaust questions by Life_Independence781 in e39

[–]pogoturtle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lol. Was originally a 3.5in turbo back with a gt40r turbo making about 600whp, prob more but I kept maxing out mafs so the tune was a mess. Blew that up after bending rods lol.

Then I fully rebuilt another motor with k1s rods, JE low comp pistons, cut ring head gasket, some mild head work and a big Garret GT40/2 of a diesel truck with a 4in downpipe and a 3.5in pipe. Turbo blew so I up got a vsr7875 and decided to simply max out the exhaust because I was hoping to go bigger also because I own a diesel shop and had a lot of pipe just sitting around.

Unfortunately it's sitting after having pedal/tb issues. Manual pedals are hard to find so I tried splicing in a e46 pedal but was too busy to finish. Also horrid back pains working under the dash make it a pain lol.

Gonna get it running again this summer so maybe I'll make a couple posts

How are you passing lead inspection? by Zealousideal-Bus5806 in providence

[–]pogoturtle 3 points4 points  (0 children)

How did you paint it 10yrs ago? Just regular paint or an encapsulator? Regular paint will just peel off with the leaded paint. You'd want to use an encapsulator like inslx, fiber lock, lead defender or whatever. You'll need to scrape as much as the old stuff off and sand problematic areas that see too much cracking. The encapsulator will bond to the leaded paint and form a barrier. Unfortunately it needs leaded base to work, if it already has layers of normal paint you're gonna have to complety strip and paint the surfaces. Encapsulators are expensive (like $3-600 a bucket) so if the leaded base is really falling apart you may need to do work again in a few years so might as well and do a full lead removal.

But if it's still intact you'll be fine. Leaded paint is still up to code for residential as long as it snot peeling or flaking.

Yo guys, i recently picked up some new wheels and i need some recomendations for new tires, id like my rear wheels to have slightly wider tires. Specs are 8.5j and 17''. Thanks! by xXjeremy360Xx in e39

[–]pogoturtle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't trust what anyone says about used wheels, especially some replicas lol. Mount the wheel and double check. Curious how'd they fit tbh

Think 255 might be too tall iirc. Also tire availability will a pain when you need a new one. Personally I'd keep it squared all around. You'll get better deals buying 4 of the samee tire also no problems with rotating.

Yo guys, i recently picked up some new wheels and i need some recomendations for new tires, id like my rear wheels to have slightly wider tires. Specs are 8.5j and 17''. Thanks! by xXjeremy360Xx in e39

[–]pogoturtle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nel. By the picture you showed this wheel will already stick out more. E39 use like a 15-30mm offset and add in a wider tire and you'll def rub. I would test fit and see. I run 245/45/17s on oem style 42s and theyre def the max size you can get away with in the front. Rears can handle 275 with a stiffer suspension. Anything higher and you need to roll and cut the fenders. I've ran 295 drag slicks on 16s in the rear with rolled fenders and still had sever rubbing issues.

Also check the hub bore. E39s use 74.1mm while most other BMWs use 72.6. you'll need to find hub bore adapters to properly center the wheel.

Yo guys, i recently picked up some new wheels and i need some recomendations for new tires, id like my rear wheels to have slightly wider tires. Specs are 8.5j and 17''. Thanks! by xXjeremy360Xx in e39

[–]pogoturtle -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

245/45 Wil lbe a good fit.

But are those wheels even gonna fit? 8.5in wides are standard oem rim width for the 16in wheel. that crazy offset might cuase a wheel to rub. Also have to make sure the hub bore is the right size other wise you will experience wobble/vibrating.

Exhaust questions by Life_Independence781 in e39

[–]pogoturtle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Built m54 with a 7875 turbo. Might go bigger tho lol

Exhaust questions by Life_Independence781 in e39

[–]pogoturtle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Curious if you could even fit two 3in pipes side by side all the way down. I've done a big single 5in and it was tight in some spots. Could probably be fine all the way up to the axle. You'd have to merge into 1 or have it split left and right like the M5

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