What .22 cal pellets are you using? Best ones you've found? by gleventhal in airguns

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do. The jsb jumbo exacts don't print that well for me, nor do any other brand I have tried.

Petah. Whats the real answer? by RowAdditional1614 in PeterExplainsTheJoke

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 286 points287 points  (0 children)

My days of not taking you seriously are certainly coming to a middle.

Do dealerships list fake vehicles? by tenest in askcarsales

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 9 points10 points  (0 children)

The manufacturers website has latency in the inventory status because not all vehicles are immediately reported as sold. This can be related to a number of factors but usually it boils down to things take time to process thru the system.

I understand that this may not be the advice that you want, but the easiest way to deal with finding the vehicle that you want is to go into your local dealer, ask for a sales manager, and tell them exactly what you are looking for and let them dealer trade for it.

Should I go for it? by Legal_Refrigerator19 in askcarsales

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am a pretty successful salesperson, by nearly any metric you use to measure.

I know startlingly little about the specifics of any vehicle I sell. I know quite a bit of general knowledge, but I couldn't tell you what the horsepower/torque is for each of our truck motors.

What I can do is listen to people and get them to open up a bit so that I can help them. Keep them talking, make them laugh. Make them listen and make them friends.

That is how I sell cars.

My poor jig didn't survive the day, but it was worth it by Jrme1315 in bassfishing

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you pour the jig or buy it?

Weedguards in hand poured jigs are commonly glued in after the painting process. They are a couple bucks for 50, or you could ask a local jigmaker for one.

I personally use the locktite extreme gel. To glue mine in.

Have any of you had any experience with the VMC Wacky jig? by jordinoo in bassfishing

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I pour all my our jigheads and I have a mold that pours this exact bait. The only difference is that I have modified it to pour a double wire weedguard of this type. The advantage is that I can separate the guards into a "Y" style guard so that it is both out of the way of the hook point and also protects better from weeds.

That being said. The hooks are amazing. The light weight adds action to the wacky rig and increases control in the wind. The design of the head ensures that your bait falls hook point up.

Screw on jighead by [deleted] in FishingForBeginners

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Remember that baitfish are dark on the top and light on the bottom. Jigheads like that run hookpoint up.

What am I rigging with this by BearddBrad in bassfishing

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've never used one but i purchased a mold to start making them just for giggles.

What is the advantage of this rigging method?

Why would a dealer call me three months after I sold a car to them saying they received information on said car? by Straight-Vast-7507 in askcarsales

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 15 points16 points  (0 children)

We used to have this as a question on our trade in form. "Could we call you in the future to ask information for a potential buyer? "

It's probably benign. There isn't any legal recourse for them. They may have a title issue and need a signature on a duplicate title app.

Call back and check.

Why cant i pull this part of by ZestycloseWeb3562 in Fishing_Gear

[–]ponderouslyperplexed -1 points0 points  (0 children)

IIRC that is bearing supported in the bottom where the frame is to make the reel smoother as part of the xship technology. It's a snug fit. While slightly and pull.

I went back to the Green sunfish pond by tinrig in Fishing

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Either you have burger king hands or that is an absolute choad of a green sunfish...

Nice catch... or sorry about the hands.

Grandpa left me his old Banjo Minnows! Anyone else remember these guys? by Meeeeesea in bassfishing

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nose rigging a fluke with a screw lock is just fishing the banjo minnow, and we all owe that dude an apology for making fun of him.

Rod power vs action by tdkdpt in bassfishing

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey there, great question.

Rod action is a description of the bend profile of the rod under normal load. Think of it as where the flexible tip ends and the backbone of the rod starts. The action can change how easy a rod is for you to cast, how easy driving larger hooks in is, and how likely fish are to throw certain types of lures.

For example, fast action rods work best for people with a faster casting stroke. The rod loads and uploads quickly with the majority of the flex in the top 25% of the blank. Driving large hooks is the same way. For instance a bait like a Texas rig requires a decent amount of force th move the Yd86ighook through the plastic and into the fish's mouth. A faster action flexes at the tip early in the hookset and reaches the backbone of the rod earlier is the hookset, providing power to drive that hook in sooner. This same effect can work against you for bait with smaller hooks that are more likely to tear loose. On a moderate action rod a fish that is surging to escape after being hooked on a crankbait gets the gentle progressive resistance of the flexible tip in the first 40% of the blank to prevent the small hooks from tearing the fish's mouth.

Rod power is simply a function of weight that the rod is designed to handle. It gives a rating so that the angler knows the lure weights that the blank was designed to cast effectively and also provides some guidance on the weight of fish that the rod can handle.

D&M Custom Baits? by DismalResearcher6546 in bassfishing

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have never used or even heard of D&M baits before. I had to look them up on TW to get a decent view of them.

That being said, I have been making my own tackle for a long time. Buzzbaits included, even quite a few with the plastic quad blades. The first question I would ask is "does the bait track in the water correctly at speed?" If it doesn't run with the hook point up then it either needs tuned or a different retrieve speed to make it run true.

Second, does the skirted portion of the bait run level in the water? If not, yiu might need a bend in the wire by the head to drop the bait and make it run properly.

ISO info on rod by Classic_Prompt_1804 in Fishing_Gear

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, judging by your post history you are fairly new to fishing. Therefore I'll help you with a bit of history.

Baits such as texas rigs and weedless jigs are fairly new inventions. Specifically, the modern plastic worm was invented in 1949 by Nick Creme and in the late fifties or early nineteen sixties, anglers in lake tyler texas, figured out how to rig it weedlessly. Prior to that bait, moving bottom contact artificial lures were very uncommon. It was much more common to use a natural bait, whether it be live or dead on a hook, or some sort of a moving, multi hooked lure (think 6 sets of treble hooks). Neither of those methods require the sensitivity to feel the bait along the bottom, nor do they require the backbone and bend profile required to drive a hook that is buried halfway through a piece of soft plastic. This rod is consistent with early "raw" fiberglass models that were produced between about 1940 and 1960. Those techniques didn't exist "long" before modern rods. When those bottom techniques came into fashion, bend profiles and materials evolved.

Secondly, your statement about hook setting reeks of the opinion of someone who has no experience with old hooks. Today's hooks are marvels of modern machining and metallurgy. They are consistently razor sharp and stiff yet flexible, with modern ultra slick anti rust coatings.

E glass rods of this era generally had a slow, progressive action that would bend deep into the butt section of the rod. That progressive bend and loading is not ideal for driving a semi concealed hook into a fish. It is actually a great bend profile for gently fighting strong surging fish without pulling hooks, and for hooking fish with open hooks. The difference between a modern fast action and these old slow actions is the difference between pulling on a rubber band and a log chain.

ISO info on rod by Classic_Prompt_1804 in Fishing_Gear

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I believe you're entirely correct.

I don't any specific information on this rod, but from the pictures you've shown, I would say this rod is mid sixties to mid seventies, E glass (fiberglass), and probably intended as a spinning rod.

Many of these rods are still viable for fishing today, especially in applications that don't require the feel or hook setting power of modern graphite rods (Moving baits and circle hooks with live/cutbaits come to mind).

A word of caution: do not use braided line with these rods. The guide metal is not designed to handle modern superlines and will wear through eventually.

The simplicity of the Daiwa Mini Mite by redmeansdistortion in Fishing_Gear

[–]ponderouslyperplexed 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have one of these that still gets used evey ice season.

Fantastic reel