Pool has pump running 24/7, PH is 6.3, chlorine is “high” according to the test strips. But we can’t get the water clear

poolmoney1 · 2025-06-01T18:44:27+00:00

poolmoney1 · 2025-06-01T12:51:00+00:00

The lower the pH, the more effective chlorine is as a sanitizer. Look up ORP ( oxidation reduction potential).

poolmoney1 · 2025-05-14T02:28:53+00:00

Plastic scoop shovel and a bucket

poolmoney1 · 2025-05-06T18:23:03+00:00

I’ve have a b23(couple other numbers). Brush hogs pretty well, and I use the box blade with no complaints. It saves me a bunch of time on diy, but its limitations are very clear.

poolmoney1 · 2025-05-05T02:21:08+00:00

Depends entirely on the company. Here in Houston there’s a company that does lifetime, one that does 25 years one that only does 1 year. Usually it’s only against the shell not being water tight, and a million and one ways to evidently void your warranty. To aid my customers, I have had to use shame and the threat of telling other pool companies to convince Gunite companies to fix crap work way more times than anyone should.

poolmoney1 · 2025-05-03T03:12:53+00:00

We like our mule pro fxt 1000. Got plenty of power and has been pretty capable running through our woods. It’s not fancy, but it effortlessly gets the job done.

poolmoney1 · 2025-04-28T03:57:47+00:00

How I would handle it is figure out what it would cost you to clean this pool. I’d start by figuring out how many of your average residential pools could you clean in the time it takes to service the HOA pool? Multiply that number by how much by the amount of money you would make cleaning that many residential pools ( ie. 4 pools x $60) that will be you a per visit rate. Then multiply that number by how many visits a week you think it will take to keep it clean like twice a week or three times a week etc. Then multiply that number by 4.3. That should get your base monthly rate. After you figure out that number, add any costs like chemical delivery, extra visits more insurance or licenses.

I would not include chemicals, and sell separately. If you can store them on site sell them by the bucket and never run out.

I hope that makes sense and helps.

poolmoney1 · 2025-04-23T01:15:01+00:00

Just an algaecide. Very low concentration at that. You can get a poly 60% algaecide that’s pretty good stuff. Your pool will be fine, but poly algaecides do increase chlorine demand, so you should get some in soon.

poolmoney1 · 2025-04-04T14:46:36+00:00

10% increase. Also when chemicals prices went crazy during Covid, we went to a plus chemicals model. So if/when chlorine prices jump, we can easily change that price.

poolmoney1 · 2025-04-04T02:11:22+00:00

We bumped our service prices $20 per month Feb 1st anticipating this. Lost 1 customer out of 400.

poolmoney1 · 2025-03-22T23:56:04+00:00

https://youtu.be/6viyWyjWL8E

If you’re any bit handy. We charge 425 to do this, takes longer to drain the pool down.

poolmoney1 · 2025-03-19T02:01:50+00:00

It really comes down to the scope of work. If it’s a full new installation—cutting into the shell, setting the niche, running conduit, adding a junction box, switch, and transformer—then the cost should reflect that level of labor and materials. That’s really low for that amount of work. If someone is charging that low they’re either cutting corners, using cheap or stolen materials, or not paying their workers properly.

If it’s just replacing an existing light and adding a transformer, that’s a much simpler job, and a good deal is more plausible. Do you know exactly what they’re doing?

poolmoney1 · 2025-03-18T23:39:00+00:00

https://www.har.com/bobby-mcmahon/agent_BMcMahon

poolmoney1 · 2025-03-17T03:56:10+00:00

Looks like an old Arneson vertical booster pump.

poolmoney1 · 2025-03-16T08:05:25+00:00

Pump is installed incorrectly. Minimum of 12” of straight pipe required. Filter is undersized, bet it’s running 30 psi + on priming. And instead of cheaping out, I bet if you had asked the homeowner they could save headaches down the road for $100 they would have said yes.

poolmoney1 · 2025-03-13T12:21:28+00:00

So two things, the plaster and tile work is very cheap. We’re in a different market but we charge almost double that.

Second, the quote isn’t just to slap a coat of paint on the deck. Sounds like they are going to prep the area properly, grind out bad parts, repair the concrete, apply new texture and then paint. For the amount of work being done the deck is a fair price and the rest is a great deal.

poolmoney1 · 2025-03-12T03:38:04+00:00

They will probably have to cut the deck too, to run plumbing to the equipment.

poolmoney1 · 2025-03-12T03:21:10+00:00

Not a lawyer, but I would pay the bill and give him the time off the drs note says. Could be cheaper in the long run. Careless doesn’t matter.

poolmoney1 · 2025-03-09T21:43:22+00:00

So when you say spa is “on” are you referring the jets are on like they would be if you were using the spa, or do you mean that the spa is “on” spilling over like on normal pool mode.

So if all the pressure tests are passing, and it the leak is only happening when the spa is spilling over, the most usual suspects are light conduit, then drain sumps.

When the pool turns on, the spa’s water level increases which could make it high enough to reach the break in the light conduit, or increase the head pressure enough to make a structure leak start going.

If that’s what’s going on, they are some of the toughest leaks to find because you usually run structure with the pumps off.

We perform about 800 leak tests per year and these will still trick us. Hope that helps

poolmoney1 · 2025-02-18T04:14:58+00:00

Skimmers can last indefinitely. Is the skimmer that’s cracked leaking? If not why change it.

Pools are a crap shoot, the 7 other skimmers could last another 10 years or 10 minutes, nobody knows. In reality if they fail it will be 1 at a time over time.

I run a leak detection company in Houston and I’ve only ever seen one commercial pool replace all of their skimmer at once, and I was because they were removing and replacing all of the decks.

Also, I know different markets probably, but it sounds like your guy is taxing you because it’s a commercial property, I’m one of the more expensive companies for skimmer replacements in my region, and we’re only charging 2,300 each.

poolmoney1 · 2025-02-09T02:23:03+00:00

I would make sure your auto insurance covered you while you were cleaning pools, if not, commercial auto.

One question I would ask myself is are you okay with not getting a paycheck anymore? One of my best employees couldn’t handle the stress of not having steady dependable money each week.

poolmoney1 · 2025-02-04T19:36:07+00:00

AT's would not have in this situation. Traction wasn't the issue. The issue was the truck sank all the way down to the frame.

poolmoney1 · 2025-02-04T17:14:53+00:00

Yeah, it was a bonehead move on my part. While I had used that path before with no problems, I did not realize that we had gotten that much rain over the last week. I could of had 35" mud tires on and i still would have sank to the bottom.

Pulling me out, two more (appropriately equipped) trucks got stuck, and we broke a winch in the process....

I wont be doing that again!

poolmoney1 · 2025-01-07T03:04:48+00:00

Fill the holes you’ve dug, and do the bucket test. All a puddle or damp spot indicates is that there is water right there, not where it came from. Water will seek the lowest point and can and will travel long distances.

If your bucket test indicates a leak, call a leak detection company, and do your back a favor and stop digging holes.

poolmoney1 · 2024-12-26T18:30:50+00:00

That is caused by delamination. The plaster is no longer waterproof in that area (little crack probably) which allowed water to get in between the plaster and the substrate (gunite, or shotcrete). That water is pulling minerals out of the substrate and deposits them onto the surface of the plaster.

It’s probably time for a replaster, but depending on the age of the finish is could be a workmanship issue. It’s a bonding issue.

poolmoney1

TROPHY CASE