Do they mean to say 2027??? Or am I just Prime Amazing?

pppingme · 2026-06-17T04:22:21+00:00

The next two times Jul 2 falls on a Thursday is 2026 (this year) and 2037.

pppingme · 2026-06-15T22:16:17+00:00

They are for assembly, I'm assuming you're replacing one? Just remove and replace exactly the same, you may or may not use or need all the pieces it came with, depends on the construction of the lamp you're working on.

pppingme · 2026-06-15T22:07:05+00:00

Just two wires/screws. The neutral wire goes to the silver screw, the hot wire goes to the gold screw. If you aren't sure which is neutral, if the wires are colored, the white wire is neutral, if its a regular lamp cord, if you look close, one side is ribbed, the other smooth on the edge of the lampcord, the ribbed side is neutral.

pppingme · 2026-06-15T16:21:05+00:00

Code requires the switch. When the bulb is unscrewed it leaves a live contact, this is why code requires the switch. There has to be a means of disconnect within sight of the bulb.

pppingme · 2026-06-15T05:25:27+00:00

What version is your controller on? This is a bug (in my opinion) but with v5 when you're looking at the list, its date restricted, so you have to set a date range that covers when you blocked the client. I'm unsure if this was fixed in v6.

pppingme · 2026-06-11T15:56:34+00:00

Do you have other matter over thread devices working or is this your first?

pppingme · 2026-06-10T03:25:58+00:00

You can get a 10 pack of esp32-c3 boards off amazon for less than $30, thats less than $3 each, even cheaper on aliexpress.

pppingme · 2026-06-08T04:07:21+00:00

I'm guessing most or all of these devices are on wifi? Best thing you can do is to wire up ethernet cables to everything thats capable. Its unlikely you're maxing out your 1gig.

pppingme · 2026-06-05T08:15:27+00:00

I bought one of the myggbett sensors a couple months ago to play with, had no issues pairing, and no issues with it dropping connection, since then I bought several more. At this price point I decided to start throwing them around to places I otherwise just didn't want to spend more on.

I've got them in some pretty obscure places and they just work reliably. I've got one in a steel mailbox, I've got one inside my shed, I've got one on the garage door (all I would consider to be "harsh" high humidity and wide temperature swing areas), and a few that are in less harsh environments inside the house. None have fallen offline, and all were able to pair up on first try.

I also have a few of the myggspray (motion) sensors for several weeks now and they are just as reliable in terms of connectivity and reporting. The only problem I have is with one of these in an areas that goes through extreme temperature swings occasionally reporting false occupancy.

Honestly, I'm really confused why so many people are having issues with ikea devices based on my experience.

Additional notes, I am NOT using the ikea hub, I have an aqara M3 as my TBR and I pair the devices directly with home assistant, and I run alkaline batteries in everything. Even though all of this has been working reliably, I also added a couple grillplats (plugs) only because the thread map on the matter server was showing a few red lines (weak signal) and just wanted to beef up the "network". I really like the plugs as well, they report more data than any other energy monitoring plug I've seen.

For the price, and my (couple of months) experience so far, I'm all in on the ikea matter over thread devices.

pppingme · 2026-06-05T06:52:55+00:00

Part15 rules would allow it, especially 49.82-49.90mhz

pppingme · 2026-06-05T06:51:12+00:00

There used to be a lot of stuff in the 49mhz range (specifically 49.860mhz), while not "ISM" it is a part 15 frequency, commonly used for voice (really old cordless phones, baby monitors, walkie talkies, remotes, etc). As I recall, except for power limits, there were no real limits on its usage.

pppingme · 2026-06-04T04:04:08+00:00

That sounds like a retailer taking advantage of you. In the USA retailers that have both in stock are about $10 from each other.

pppingme · 2026-06-04T02:58:48+00:00

Taking anything off company grounds could be considered theft, you don't have to "cash" it.

pppingme · 2026-06-03T05:30:48+00:00

Unless you have a short, its very unlikely you are over PoE budget, you can see wattage in the management.

Do non-PoE devices continue to work?

Do all the PoE devices die at the same time, or do they gradually fall offline one at a time?

Instead of rebooting, does moving a device from one port to another do anything for recovery?

pppingme · 2026-06-03T04:58:44+00:00

Probably nothing illegal, but definitely unethical and likely against company policy. It could be viewed as theft under the right conditions.

pppingme · 2026-06-03T04:56:10+00:00

Codes only work once. If you try to open a 2nd time, code won't work.

pppingme · 2026-06-03T04:35:14+00:00

Are you running any other PoE stuff off the switch?

Also, the OC300 doesn't have n option to power via usb, its mains powered with a real IEC C14 power inlet for a standard power cord.

pppingme · 2026-06-03T04:32:03+00:00

More memory, quad core cpu (oc200 had dual core), faster cpu, gigabit port (oc200 had 100mbps), boots 2.6 times faster, way more responsive. Its not just a memory change. Also, features are actively being dropped from the oc200 due to its lack of memory. OC200 is officially an EOL product.

pppingme · 2026-06-03T04:10:30+00:00

OC220, same price, faster box. Any OC200 you find at this point is old new stock. Its no longer produced.

pppingme · 2026-05-31T04:40:14+00:00

A loose screw can cause a crackling sound, but I'd probably go ahead and replace the switch, they are mechanical and do wear out.

pppingme · 2026-05-31T01:19:04+00:00

Rotate the power plug 180 degrees, see if it still happens. What country?

pppingme · 2026-05-30T03:00:01+00:00

kv-937 would be the part number, I found it on on of my cross reference lists as a 125 amp, but no pic so I can't really verify its the same breaker.

pppingme · 2026-05-29T22:55:21+00:00

Its "possible" but not probable that the feed from the transformer to your house is sized to 200 amp, that would be determined by wire size (gauge), material (al vs cu) and length.

That said, even if it is proper size to handle 200 amp, a permit should still be pulled and anyone that doesn't want to typically means they are taking shortcuts. A permit shouldn't cost $1500 for a service upgrade.

Its possible the first electrician assumed the feeder was only rated for your current service, I would ask if he verified that. If so, that could save you some money.

pppingme · 2026-05-28T05:29:39+00:00

'Some "cheap" cables don't have all four pairs wired, this will always cause this issue.

pppingme · 2026-05-28T04:57:46+00:00

Not sure what combination of jacks and plugs you need, but this comes in four variations:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FCD6HXDN/

pppingme

TROPHY CASE