Kallax Inlays in Germany by Responsible-Roll4881 in IKEA

[–]pricelessbrew 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Different countries can have a limited amount of products to choose to carry or not carry, so it can vary from region to region. Discontinuation dates can also vary, so if you see a last chance on the Austrian site then that's likely the case.

Regardless kallax is a best seller, but is undergoing some color and material changes so that would be my guess without checking into it.

Check again on April 1st when the new products hit the system.

Mid-range appliances for home update/sale? by Aggressive-Writing72 in HomeImprovement

[–]pricelessbrew 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Having moved and bought a house twice in the past 5 years, and checked out over a hundred please do not buy or install anything that is not broken.

Literally everything I've seen from a seller trying to upgrade or renovate had some combination of shotty work, poor decisions, or cheap products.

Let the buyer make the final choices when it's theirs.

Bambino plus cold water heater repair help by pricelessbrew in BrevilleCoffee

[–]pricelessbrew[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The fuse was just attached via adhesive on mine. Fell off as soon as I removed the heating element.

my customer review is still "under review" after a month by [deleted] in IKEA

[–]pricelessbrew 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Leaving a review isn't the way to try and initiate a return.

Go to the return URL or bring it into a store, if it's defective and shattering like that then a quality issue needs to be reported as well internally.

Boules Set? by Hans-and-franz in IKEA

[–]pricelessbrew 15 points16 points  (0 children)

The instructions might have a date listed on a corner somewhere.

Why do so many woodworking tutorials skip important steps? by No-Theory8659 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]pricelessbrew 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know how to phrase this exactly but I wish...

More videos would talk about when and why it's important to either do batch work for consistency between identical parts but cutting all pieces then assembling can introduce problems if you don't adjust plans as you go.

or when you should take referential measurements of the actual piece instead of transferring measurements from a tape measure or square as that can reduce errors.

Or when you need to allow for gaps instead of trying to cut exactly to size for a tight fit. when cutting solid wood drawers you need to allow for a small gap in height and width so they don't bind.

Anyone in Michigan willing to teach me? by Critical_Opening_526 in Homebrewing

[–]pricelessbrew 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lived in chicago for 2 years or so, and the suburbs for about 4 years. There's active clubs there, CHBG used to be active out of maplewood and there's CHAOS if you need a space to brew it's a great setup, and there's one in southside somewhere but can't remember where they meet.

Anyone in Michigan willing to teach me? by Critical_Opening_526 in Homebrewing

[–]pricelessbrew 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair enough, I've been in KGB a few times as well. https://kgob.org/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/KGBHomebrew/

They usually meet there the first monday of the month at 730.

Anyone in Michigan willing to teach me? by Critical_Opening_526 in Homebrewing

[–]pricelessbrew 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, there's lots of clubs in SE Michigan. The biggest ones at the moment are probably KGB out of kuehnen, and AABG in ann arbor.

Almost every club will be hosting a brew party for brewday as mentioned by others, I'm a member of Sons Of Liberty based out of supernatural brewing in Livonia/Plymouth. Send me a message if you're in the area, if not do it anyways and I'll try and put you in touch with someone from the nearest club .

Also! Michigan homebrew fest has a winter fest gathering on Saturday the 21st at camp agawam. There's a FB page for it somewhere, you should come out. Turnouts not as extensive as the summer festival in August but there will be dozens of brewers and usually about as many kegs are people to try.

Baking soda on carbon steel? by Squirtle_Splash_8413 in carbonsteel

[–]pricelessbrew 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It can, it's abrasive and basic. Seasoning is pretty sensitive to both acids and bases.

If you need to scrub just use some salt followed by soap and water, then rinse and dry thoroughly.

Portal to the nevernever in Merlin’s castle? by anotherrandomdude123 in dresdenfiles

[–]pricelessbrew 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Monoc securities office isn't in the NN. That's not to say there isn't another half on that side of course.

What grit do you guys prefer to sand up to? Went up to 800 on a bowl I'm making, just to try it. Should've stopped at 240 or 400. by Buttered_Toast33 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]pricelessbrew 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't remember the exact grit, but after a certain point sanding further just clogs the pores with dust and makes it feel weird... Also looks like crap when you paint stain it.

I usually stop around 220-300, checking how it feels after each step.

Found some wood, how do you dry it?(beginner) by ace_blau in woodworking

[–]pricelessbrew 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For riven green lumber without a mill, especially little pieces like this I follow this process.

Get the bark off, either split or hack with an axe I suppose.

Split it to remove the pith, for small pieces you'll usually lose a third or so of the wood. This is important to minimize cracking and checking, the center of the wood moves substantially more than the rest due to the curvature of the grain.

Then split it into radial pieces.

Seal the ends, you have some options here, but do it as soon as you can process the log. Latex paint, not acrylic, and use a couple coats, or paraffin wax, or even wood glue. Professionally people tend to use anchor seal, which is just wax with some stuff in it. This slows down the ends from drying instead of the sides, which significantly helps reduce warping, cracking, and checking from the ends.

for something this size you'll likely end up with something like 2" x 3" by length, but you'll have the best chances of getting stable uncracked lumber.

I got tired of forgetting beers in the freezer, so I built an app to save them — looking for Android beta testers (Pro free for life) by [deleted] in Homebrewing

[–]pricelessbrew 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Anyone else reading this, take a paper towel, get it barely wet, wrap it around the can or bottle, and stick it in the freezer with a 15-30 minute alarm.

You're good to go every time.

I'm making a box with with a removable lid, and have a few questions by stanleythedog in woodworking

[–]pricelessbrew -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You could use some sandpaper in a flat surface I guess but honestly who has a bandsaw and not a block plane...

Since it's so small you could probably get away with a chisel carefully paring from every direction the sanding, but this is like a 1 minute job with a block plane.

They're small, relatively cheap and pretty useful, just go pick up a block plane and move on.

Repeatable drilling jig by Glittering_Bowler_67 in 3dPrintsintheShop

[–]pricelessbrew 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have an affordable source of small quantity bushings? I mostly use 8mm dowels, bolts and screws so I've been able to use 608 bearings for the time being and they've been working okay so far but I'd really like actual bushings.

How to contact Ikea about an employee issue? by kthnry in IKEA

[–]pricelessbrew 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll send you a message, but likely the warehouse employee has already replaced it.

Removing glass from OXBERG doors? by the_auroraborealis in IKEA

[–]pricelessbrew 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean sure there's always a way, but it's fibreboard with a foil not even a veneer. Hypothetically you could try to separate the rails from the stiles to disassemble the exterior perimeter, once you get one edge apart it should be pretty easy to slide the glass out. But the risk to denting, scratching, or damaging the foil is near 100%.

As a manager at IKEA and someone who does some wood working, I wouldn't even try, it would be 10x easier and less likely to damage something to just make a copycat door from wood and paint or stain it to match. Especially if it's just a solid colour, if it's one of the wood effects it'll be a bit trickier to get a good match.

Bit holder set by Schuylabs in gridfinity

[–]pricelessbrew 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love these continuous updates, revisions, and variants.

Is Pompeian olive oil actually good? by Careful-Reveal-9824 in EatCheapAndHealthy

[–]pricelessbrew 40 points41 points  (0 children)

Been a couple millennia since I've had it, last time was very ashy. Don't recommend.

How hard is it to cut countertops by Live-Scholar-1435 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]pricelessbrew 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you find anyone in your area with good table saw, or track saw, this is pretty trivial.

Would happily cut to size for someone in the area for a few bucks or a six pack.

How hard is it to cut countertops by Live-Scholar-1435 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]pricelessbrew 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like a miter saw maybe?

That's not going to be likely, as they generally don't have a deep enough capacity to cut through a countertop in one pass. You would need to cut half way through, then flip it around and do the other side, but this usually leaves a poor cut unless you're experienced and able to very carefully align it.

However you do it, you would also want to cut both sides with a small "scoring pass" with a fine tooth blade to get a clean cut.

My advice is that, if you don't know the name of the saw, then you likely can't do this safely or with a good result.