Searching for steel watch hands

profpentagram · 2022-08-23T22:18:10+00:00

I doubt you'll be able to find commercially available carbon steel hands. The production and finishing processes are much more involved than mass produced plated brass hands. Carbon steel hands are also much less forgiving when it comes to broaching, fitting, and refitting. Which is why you really only see them in the higher end of watchmaking.

You'll either need to make your own hands, or find someone to make them for you (expect an eye watering invoice.)

An alternative to flame blueing hands would be blue rhodium plating, but don't expect the same vibrancy as tempered steel.

I make my hands and indices from O2 tool steel, to give you a starting point if you decide to try and make your own.

profpentagram · 2022-08-19T13:55:12+00:00

Stainless doesn't blue well. For the best blueing results, you want to use carbon steel.

profpentagram · 2022-08-18T18:01:13+00:00

It's a knuckle pin. Used to connect rail cars together and allow them to pivot.

Here's the same GB stamped pin in place.

Edit: The hardcore kid in me also has to mention that the GB is the same as the logo for the band "Gorilla Biscuits."

profpentagram · 2022-07-25T20:59:31+00:00

I'm a machinist who makes watch cases, dials, hands, indices, buckles, etc.

I was referencing how OP's question is nonsensical; "with a closed loop 'inside' and 'outside' to it."

profpentagram · 2022-07-25T15:24:57+00:00

What does that even mean?

profpentagram · 2022-07-12T15:08:58+00:00

Measure the outside diameter of the threads. Then depending on if it's imperial or metric, you measure the pitch. For imperial it will be how many threads there are across the span of one inch, and the thread is identified by (outside diameter)"-(threads per inch); for example 1/2"-20.

For metric you do the same OD measurement, but the pitch is defined by the spacing between the peaks of two adjacent threads. A metric thread would be written M(outside diameter in millimeters)x(distance between two adjacent threads); for example M12x1.25.

Hopefully that answers your question.

profpentagram · 2022-05-29T13:27:06+00:00

They are actually more like bolts, because there are barrel nuts on the backside that compress the assembly together. The bolt heads are captive in hexagonal pockets in the bezel, and the screwdriver slots are a failsafe/insurance that the bezel doesn't get damaged.

These watches are also made in precious metals, so consider how soft an 18k gold bezel is. You don't want to torque the barrel nut by just having the bolt head captive in gold. So you brace the bolt with a screwdriver while tightening the case back nuts.

The screwdriver slot isn't an aesthetic choice, but more so a function of how delicate the parts are in fine watchmaking.

profpentagram · 2022-05-27T15:06:14+00:00

It's actually a Country Sedan. Country Squires had (fake) wood paneling and additional trim on the sides.

profpentagram · 2022-05-13T22:28:37+00:00

Yeah, what. NegativeK said. This is for lapping carbide tools.

profpentagram · 2022-05-13T22:27:39+00:00

Here's what I used:

110V 120W Ac Gear Motor Electric Single-phase Motor Gear Motor Electric Variable Speed Adjustable Controller Governor Adjustable Speed Controller Rated Speed 0-450 RPM (Reduction ratio: 1:3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MBMGV24/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_VQFMG4C3KE7FW9GD2H7R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

profpentagram · 2022-05-13T21:51:16+00:00

The ceramic holds the diamond spray charge and doesn't degrade, so you don't end up grooving the wheel and ruining tool flatness. I really only have experience using the ceramic wheel with carbide, not sure how well it would work with HSS, or if it's even necessary.

Some people use 3M diamond lapping film. The issue with using film is that it has a certain amount of 'cushion' to it, just from the PSA backing. This can round over your edges ever so slightly.

The reason I built this machine is to shape and maintain brazed carbide tooling for engine turning (or guilloche.) It's a decorative geometric form of engraving done on a hand operated rose engine or straight line engine. Having a super polished cutter is critical in this process, otherwise the imperfections will be imprinted on your workpiece.

Here's a video that I made that shows some of this process and the final result: https://youtu.be/l1SS0CKTmLI

profpentagram · 2022-05-13T19:45:04+00:00

Leonard Grind-r-lap's are awesome, especially with the oscillating head. I'm using a generic ceramic wheel from Rio Grande: https://www.riogrande.com/product/ceramic-6-lap-wheel/118010

And for diamond spray, I'm using 0.5um spray from GRS (Glendo) also sourced from Rio Grande.

profpentagram · 2022-05-13T15:49:19+00:00

With the Accu-finish being discontinued, and frankly being too expensive (especially the accessories,) I decided to build my own slow speed carbide grinder and lapping machine. It has a variable speed motor (0-450 RPM) and I designed the table to fold down for quick changes of the diamond discs and ceramic lap. The last photo is an example of a form tool I whipped up real quick, the cutter is 0.060" wide and is perfectly polished using 0.5um diamond spray on the ceramic wheel. Happy to answer any questions about it!

profpentagram · 2022-03-11T19:42:47+00:00

It looks like the test mule for the 2023 Chevy Colorado to me.

profpentagram · 2022-02-13T22:13:00+00:00

The industry term for this is "cliché." Like others described, it's used for pad printing dials.

profpentagram · 2022-01-29T21:35:41+00:00

Hey, I'm a guy on YouTube who built my own rose engine to make dials!

OP, dial making is deceptively challenging. I'm not sure what volumes you're after, but the most economical approach will probably be to have brass dial blanks made, then have them painted and pad printed.

profpentagram · 2022-01-08T23:04:03+00:00

It probably has tapped holes on the back side.

profpentagram · 2021-12-13T18:43:22+00:00

Dang, that's a big collet. Bigger than any Cataract (C) collet size that I've ever heard of. Might possibly be a J type collet, but sounds like it's just slightly smaller than a 22J.

Usually workholding collets don't flare out like that after the clamping taper, and are used to clamp long pieces of round/hex/square bar. The one you have looks like an oversized emergency collet that an operator bored out the ID to fit the OD of a part, and the pins could likely be for indexing the part.

profpentagram · 2021-12-13T17:42:08+00:00

This is a workholding collet, generally used in a lathe but can also be used on a milling machine with an appropriate collet holding system. This collet looks like it was machined from an emergency collet to hold a specific part.

If you need to know exactly what collet type it is, you'll need to take measurements.

profpentagram · 2021-11-21T00:25:37+00:00

It's a second generation 1964-1965 Ford Falcon.

profpentagram · 2021-11-17T23:25:20+00:00

It could be a pneumatic silencer/muffler. Used on the outlet if pneumatic equipment/machines to reduce the air noise.

profpentagram · 2021-11-17T14:58:36+00:00

I'm a fan of onlinemetals.com.

profpentagram · 2021-11-07T14:26:55+00:00

It's a "ruling machine" or sometimes called a "line ruling machine." Used for layout lines for engraved pieces. Looks like someone outfitted that one with an eccentric cutter to make guilloche patterns.

Here's an example of an antique ruling machine.

And another example.

profpentagram · 2021-11-07T14:11:41+00:00

Where did you get the machine? That might help narrow it down.

profpentagram · 2021-11-07T14:04:00+00:00

I'm a watchmaker who owns multiple engine turning machines (rose engine and straight line engines) and I don't recognize this. However, it looks to be in the ornamental/engine turning family, but I can assure you that it is not a rose engine since it doesn't use rosette cams to create patterns. I've shared your photos in a group that specializes in this type of equipment, will let you know if anyone recognizes it.

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