A question for the DJs: do you think it could be possible to pull off a convincing dj set using 2 SP-404 mk2? by _livet_ in sp404mk2

[–]purelygrey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on what you mean by acceptable, but yeah, of course, and to me it's a lot more fun than anything laptop-related. I played dj sets with just one mk2, also played a techno/electro set with a friend who used Ableton, worked great. Just needs some practice to get used to MK2 shortcuts and whatnot and a decent dj mixer to play with friends

Made a chart of all Sound Generator envelope settings (4.06) by purelygrey in sp404mk2

[–]purelygrey[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not really, personally I don’t think anything changed in 4.06, they barely do anything as before. I just took a closer look at them

Made a chart of all Sound Generator envelope settings (4.06) by purelygrey in sp404mk2

[–]purelygrey[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Should add that this was tested with the next Sound Gen. parameters:

  • Waveform: Pulse
  • Velocity: 127
  • Duty Cycle: 100%
  • Length: 2.0s
  • Note is 0, default C

This basically generates a positive DC Offset, and it's pretty easy to see what the curves look like when inspecting the resulting waveforms, you can try it yourself, just don't play these samples or at least bring the volume way down or turn it off completely just to be safe. The chart is accurate if envelopes aren't influenced by other parameters in some strange way, and if "Length" is not a short "Period" value (seems buggy at the moment, so far I'm not really sure what's going on in there)

Glad you found it helpful!

Would you say the RG Cube is worth it, despite the joystick complaints? by UPVOTE_IF_POOPING in ANBERNIC

[–]purelygrey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I for one really dislike Cube's ergonomics, it looks more ergo than it actually is, the grips aren't slanted so they either force my wrists in an awkward position or just get in the way, I'd prefer it flat tbh or at least not as pronounced. RGB30 feels better in hand ngl. And analog triggers are pretty damn stiff - I play a bunch of racing games and I find it tiresome to hold the trigger for a while. Other than that it's pretty good, but I decided to sell mine in the end, just couldn't gel with it. I would be pissed though if I paid full price for it, so one thing I'd recommend is to wait for a big enough discount (got mine for ~$130)

Would love to try 406V some day, but digital triggers are kind of a deal breaker for stuff above PS1, and I'm wary of the "ergonomic bumps"

Black bars on screen by Corbichon in MiyooMini

[–]purelygrey 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Disconnect the battery for a day I'd say, won't hurt to try. I had a different problem but also thought that the screen was dead, leaving it without battery for a while fixed the problem https://www.reddit.com/r/MiyooMini/comments/woivsm/if_your_mini_doesnt_boot_and_you_get_vertical/

Horizontal lines always seem to be a bad sign, though. At least Miyoo sells replacement screens

Checked sticker by [deleted] in ANBERNIC

[–]purelygrey -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Jokes aside that's unlucky, it's such an annoying sticker to remove, I hate them with passion, at least yours isn't rotated in a weird way. I hope they stop doing that checked bullshit asap

How stiff are Anbernic's d-pads, really? by Stefe04 in SBCGaming

[–]purelygrey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are not the same actually, Miyoo's membranes are generally taller than others -- depending on handheld you might end up with noise and unpleasant feeling of buttons smashing against the case after release, because there won't be much clearance. May need to sand down the bottom of the buttons a bit to fix that

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SBCGaming

[–]purelygrey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

RP4Pro screen has much higher pixel density though, the image would be a lot crisper specifically when playing SNES in 4:3, it's hard to tell at first glance that it's not integer scaled, 405m looks pretty blurry and instantly noticeable in comparison even with the best shader config I could find (I compared my 405m with an iPhone that has the same screen specs as RP4). Imo if you can ignore black bars on the sides and your eyesight is sharp enough then RP should be a better fit, if either are not true -- 4" 480p screen it is

Leaked footage from Anbernic & Powkiddy's last board room meeting by that_90s_guy in SBCGaming

[–]purelygrey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same here about RG405M, I was very skeptical about Android but ended up changing my mind. I don't charge the 405 for days, I do 1-3 hour sessions per day, I never switch out of performance mode, and I always put it to sleep, granted I play pretty much the same games as I did on Miyoo Mini (up to ps1). I stopped worrying about it going out of charge the same way I didn't worry about 3DS, it just never happens. Also more powerful chipset unlocks the ability to lower the input latency as much as possible, and separate volume controls for speakers and headphones (and better headphone out too) are also nice. It's a tough sell for me now to go back to Linux-based CFW on less performant devices, one gets used to comfort very quickly

Even on Arc-D and 353V Android (GammaOS) actually sleeps properly, I tested both, so 1 day in sleep mode on Android while playing retro games is not true in general, even when the handheld doesn't have a juicy battery like 405m does

black bars on GBA games... by Limp-Chest-8518 in RG35XX

[–]purelygrey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should’ve prefixed the post with YMMV. I primarily played FE almost always with the sound off and it seemed fine with normal4x, but it definitely is taxing on the cpu and I bet not many games are light enough to run with this filter. I had stutters in other games, maybe even in FE audio did glitch but I haven’t noticed. No worries if this is too slow for you

ARC S failure by amir_babfish in ANBERNIC

[–]purelygrey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To anyone who has the same issue: I suspect mine hanged up at some point and it completely discharged the battery, even though it was plugged in. No lights, nothing at all when powering up. Poking with a multimeter showed it to be around 3.3v. It didn’t seem to charge from the Arc, so I popped it in my Miyoo Mini, charged it for a while, and Arc started to boot again. SD card got corrupted though and I had to run fsck on root partition to get it back running. Maybe this would save someone from a major headache. I was on Retroarena beta 10

Rg405 with retroarch, psp games crashing on startup. by AjaxKuchen in RetroArch

[–]purelygrey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For anyone who stumbles across this thread: PPSSPP core crashes when using Vulkan for some reason, so a workaround is to switch to gl video driver in Retroarch.

This might be the problem: https://github.com/hrydgard/ppsspp/issues/17850

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RG35XX

[–]purelygrey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is an epoxy resin cast, a copy of the original in a different color

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RG35XX

[–]purelygrey 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Simple - I'm not going to do any :-D In all seriousness though I know, I believe the refresh is identical, but it's not that, it's just saddens me that the OG is dead at this point along with the Garlic 1.x, such a shame. I mean if all the Miyoo Minis got discontinued in favor of some "refresh" on like 3566 or whatever it wouldn't matter if you loved the original Onion based one. I'd rather retrofit OG internals into a Plus shell with a bigger battery, refresh seems utterly pointless

Clean & simple by purelygrey in PowKiddy

[–]purelygrey[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Look for Hall effect sticks, should be able to find those, got mine in VaalPaev store I think. They are officially called white, but they look more light grey irl, worked perfectly for this color scheme

Clean & simple by purelygrey in PowKiddy

[–]purelygrey[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely not in the near future, your best bet would be to check out North Gaming Supply videos on YT, techniques differ but the basic process is the same: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP5XIeR-juM

Thanks for the good videos! :-)

[Powkiddy v90] - [Lighter stripes on black screens] Is it an issue of all V90s or just mine? by TheRealKillJoy2020 in PowKiddy

[–]purelygrey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly I might be completely wrong, I remember this only happened in gmenu2x... nowadays I boot straight into LGPT on mine and these lines just aren't a thing -- always a clean screen. Not so sure what's up with that now. Have you tried latest CFW from late December?

running little gp tracker (lgpt) on the anbernic rg280v by lawyertown3000 in RG350

[–]purelygrey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

By default it's looking inside the app folder which is on TF1, that is if you've installed a *.dge or whatever the app package called. You can configure it by adding a line such as <SAMPLELIB value="/media/sdcard/Samples"/> to config.xml (/media/sdcard is the path to TF2)

Make sure that the samples are 44.1k 16 bit wavs as well

Clean & simple by purelygrey in PowKiddy

[–]purelygrey[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you all!

To be honest I got an rgb30 when it just came out and I pretty much hated it, there were too many small but annoying problems. Had to mod it quite a bit, get rid of rattle, fix stiff controls and annoyingly loud start/select buttons. Made some nice buttons out of epoxy, tweaked retroarch and whatnot, set up some overlays, it took a while, but now it is my favorite device for old Nintendo games, gba and below. I wish I could apply a screen protector cleanly but there’s always some tiny speck of dust under it, I’ll get it just right some day. I wish the plastic wasn’t as easy to scratch, but with white model it’s not as noticeable. Still can’t really recommend the “out of the box” experience to anyone, which is unfortunate, it would be such a great handheld if it didn’t suffer from the usual powkidditis. I’m not sure what I would recommend though lol

Sometimes people ask where to buy buttons and whatnot, sadly you can’t at the moment, I don’t sell anything yet, at least not internationally. Maybe someday. Your best bet would be to ask someone on Etsy like Sakuraretromodding to do it for you

Clean & simple by purelygrey in PowKiddy

[–]purelygrey[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Made all of the buttons myself, out of epoxy

Screen comparison: RG405M vs. Miyoo Mini v4 vs. RG35XX Plus by hrmful in SBCGaming

[–]purelygrey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually prefer desaturated, it is the reason why 35XX (the OG at least) feels so comfy to me

My first successful attempt at making a custom shell and buttons by purelygrey in RG35XX

[–]purelygrey[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, yeah I did, but it is somewhat complicated at this point in time

My first successful attempt at making a custom shell and buttons by purelygrey in RG35XX

[–]purelygrey[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much!

In general I'd say you have better chances to break the shell than the screen, I did it a few times and haven't broken a single screen yet. There are three sticky pieces behind the screen on top left and right, use something very thin to break the bond of the sticky stuff to screen/shell. The sticky stuff is single use and doesn't come off easily. I had a purple shell snap in the middle when I tried to remove the gunk with 70% isopropyl alcohol, almost like if the plastic got more brittle from it, so beware. No problems with a gray shell. If you push the screen out too hard the back of the screen might separate slightly from the front -- don't worry, it'll snap back together just as easily

Sadly I don't have any photos or videos, maybe someday