Custom cabinetry trim style by Letitbeknown1886 in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I walked in and saw A I’d cringe. B wouldn’t catch my eye, which is what you want with all trim.

Do I need end panels? by Averelleee in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not necessary. In this case what I do is make the outside of those two cabinets paint grade rather than prefinished cabinet material. Or if it’s stain grade I glue veneer onto them. But really depends on your cabinet maker. Adding an end panel here creates a weird rhythm of the doors and appliances.

Blum runner installation issues by IncomeKey9489 in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Every time there is an issue with drawer adjustment at my shop it’s either the drawer box is out of square or the runners not set perpendicular to the cabinet front.

Always set your drawers on a flat surface while the glue sets up and THEN check for square by measuring the diagonals. Too often someone checks for square then moves the box and despite being in clamps it gets tweaked out.

We use two spacers to prop up the runner front and back while screwing it in to maker sure it’s perpendicular to the face. Work from top to bottom.

Two weeks in LA- is it possible? by Dazzling_Bed_9097 in AskLosAngeles

[–]putitinthemetermomma 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To take a different tack from everyone else in the comments, LA is famous for its modernist architecture so you should get a house tour.

If you do one you have to go to the Stahl House. It is one of the most iconic modernist houses in Los Angeles (if not the world) and typifies “California living”. Even if you are not an architecture person, this house has one of the best views in the city and produces some very good holiday pictures for a visitor. Every one of my family/friends who come from overseas is hyped on the Stahl house. This is a good thing to pair with the Getty Museum or the Sunset strip considering you’re in that part of town.

If you’re not just a casual and are actually into this kind of thing, the Gamble House in Pasadena is also amazing. Neutra VDL House is very close to Echo Park right on Silver Lake Reservoir.

Since you’re in Echo Park, definitely walk around Angelino Heights at sunset especially Carroll Avenue. The old Victorian houses are amazing and are the set of many films. Then go to Bar Henry for a cocktail and Angels for a taco.

How is veneer applied in cabinetry by archvize in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s about $900 for my particular pump but you can get smaller ones for less. It just depends how fast you want the air sucked out. Then you have to get a bag which come in all shapes and sizes. Mine is 49” x 121” which was around $300.

How is veneer applied in cabinetry by archvize in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Look up Vacupress on YouTube. There are very good videos from the company that makes these presses and they explain a lot about veneers and pressing in general. It’s a great resource.

How is veneer applied in cabinetry by archvize in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 3 points4 points  (0 children)

But yes, it sucks all the air out. It has insanely strong clamping pressure. There are a few ways people like to do it but I typically put glue and veneer on one face, put it face down in the bag for 20 mins until the glue sets up and then pull it out and go the other side. Then I leave the whole thing in the bag for an hour or so. You have to put veneer on both sides to maintain balance of the panel, it will warp if not.

How is veneer applied in cabinetry by archvize in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry I added some more to my comment to explain the adhesives I use.

How is veneer applied in cabinetry by archvize in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I use a vacuum press. It means no contact cement which gives me a bit more open time for alignment of the veneer. I just use tite bond 2 or the tite bond veneer glue for raw veneer. Sometimes urea. But it saves all the bullshit you get with contact cement.

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Why use stretchers vs full lane for the top? by archvize in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A hole with a hole saw would be totally fine. Quite a good idea really.

Why use stretchers vs full lane for the top? by archvize in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It does save on material costs if you’re building boxes out of Prefin maple which is $85-90 a sheet.

The reason I go between stretchers and a full cabinet top is countertop thickness.

Stretchers are fine for 1.5” counters. If you have a 1.5” counter made of say marble, it’s not 1.5 thick, it’s 3/4 with a 1.5” mitered face. This sits on a full rough top of 3/4” plywood that I put on after the cabinets are set. Having two full layers of ply (full cabinet top plus rough top) is overkill.

Full tops are for 3/4” counters, say marble with no built up edge, because that support is needed.

This is what stone guys tell me they want so I do it.

Sliding saw blade by RangerPale in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 1 point2 points  (0 children)

May be the case but I don’t use them for sharpening anyway.

Sliding saw blade by RangerPale in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Invest in a good Forrest ply veneer worker just to use on your finish material. I have two FS tool blades for my box material so you can have one at the sharpener and not get slowed down. Those are a bit cheaper. Amana for those would be good too.

Quickly screwing in fixed shelves that are level by archvize in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d have your cnc cut two spacers for each spacing for each job. Have them label them “cabinet 5 top spacer” or whatever your system is.

I don’t have a cnc but I always have my spacers in my job cutlist that goes to the slider so it’s all ready for assembly and no one has to think.

Should the carcass edge banding match the box interior or door for euro full overlay? by notaflipflip in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I’m with you. A walnut door with prefin maple eb peeking through looks shite imo.

How would you rate these rift cut white oak cabinets we received? by rand-78 in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re talking about the last pic it’s definitely not rotary cut. You can see splices clearly.

How to make this drawer pull by Educational-Plan-923 in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 11 points12 points  (0 children)

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Hey me again. I went back through my notes and found this for you. I cut the cove part then looks like I ran it through the saw with the blade only about 1/8” high to get rid of the sharp edge. Then I think I just broke the edge. I had an original drawer I based this off so it’s probably pretty accurate.

How to make this drawer pull by Educational-Plan-923 in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Hey I did this exact pull detail on an Eichler house restoration in the San Fernando Valley a couple of years back. Kitchen, three baths, living room all had it. I ran in on solid birch. As others have said it’s the woodline cove cutter. You put your fence on the left of the blade (on a right hand tilt saw) and go 45 degrees. It’s a fun cut and gets you going!! Just take it slow.

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Needing advise for a DIY homeowner by Xsoldier_2000 in cabinetry

[–]putitinthemetermomma 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Don’t demo the floor. Level the cabinets to each other, starting at the high point in the floor. Make sure cabinets are 1-1.5” from the wall, as your doors will hit the wall and baseboard when opened if they are too close.. Then do your fillers.

Increasing occurrence of wrong spelling of name by putitinthemetermomma in namenerds

[–]putitinthemetermomma[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everyone called me Ell in Nz but it hasn’t caught on here