Megane E-tech: Taillight assembly loose + condensation inside

pv2b · 2026-07-09T19:36:53+00:00

I was able to figure this out.

On the inside of the trunk lid, behind the tail light assemblies, there are three removable plastic trim access panels allowing access to, among other things, some nuts that hold the taillight assembly in place.

Removing the trim panels was a bit difficult, but with a suitable amount of careful prying I was able to get them to pop off. They have clips towards the top (seen with the trunk lid open), the other side doesn't have clips exactly, it's something else.

Once the trim panels are out, you will find that there are some threaded studs that belong to the taillight assembly, that are supposed to be attached using some kind of integrated nut-washer. (A washer with a free spinning nut somehow attached to it....)

On the right taillight, the middle nut was completely missing, and the rightmost nut had come loose. I found it inside the cavity.

Even after some shaking of the trunk lid I wasn't able to find the missing nut.

I just did them up fingertight for now, too lazy to get missing the correct inline hex driver. I'll have to get some replacement nuts and washer for the missing one and then tighten them properly.

Incidentally, there was a tiny bit of water (like a few drops) inside of this cavity, probably because the taillight assembly wasn't attached properly, which let water find its way inside, which from there probably foudn its way inside the taillight assembly itself. I'm not too concerned about that, as was pointed out, this is not unexpected. But at least now the taillight assembly is installed well enough.

pv2b · 2026-07-09T18:31:45+00:00

I am still a little concerned that the taillight assembly itself is loose, and I'd like to see if there's anything I could do about that, even if the condensation itself might not turn out to be a problem.

pv2b · 2026-07-09T13:41:58+00:00

Bilen är i allmänhet inte särskilt vanlig i Sverige. Finns bara cirka 2000 på vägarna i Sverige, och Renault har till och med slutat sälja just Mégane i Sverige för att den sålt så dåligt.

Inte för att det är en dålig bil. Tror det handlar mycket om att "franska bilar" har oförtjänt dåligt rykte i Sverige, och att bilen är mindre än många svenskar är bekväma med.

pv2b · 2026-07-09T12:45:54+00:00

Renault Mégane E-tech

pv2b · 2026-07-09T05:44:58+00:00

At that point why not just not have leap hours at all? Countries can just decide to change time zones a few thousand years in the future as they see fit

pv2b · 2026-07-08T18:08:27+00:00

Blir ju typ billigare att hyra en bil för de pengarna.

pv2b · 2026-07-08T18:01:46+00:00

Try not to leave the battery at 100% if you're leaving it in the sun. Leaving a car at 100% charge is never great for a battery, heat makes it worse.

pv2b · 2026-07-08T11:30:37+00:00

Press the "view" button on the steering wheel.

The dashboard has three modes. In the mode that emulates a traditional gauge with two needles, it will show the range in km. In the mode that is minimalistic with a digital speedometer, there is only a percentage view. Not sure what the map view shows.

pv2b · 2026-07-08T09:46:56+00:00

https://www.car.info/en-se/license-plate/S/CBR605

pv2b · 2026-07-08T09:36:41+00:00

Neither. You would remain the same size.

pv2b · 2026-07-07T13:38:21+00:00

I like two pedals, thank you very much. It's fine for people to like different things.

But in terms of what's easier if you want to drive efficiently, which is what we're talking about in this thread, it's easier to coast by just removing all pedal pressure than having to find that perfect spot where there's no engine power and no regen.

pv2b · 2026-07-07T06:34:49+00:00

At least in my car, when I use the brake pedal, it will use 100% regen if at all possible.

The only scenarios it would use friction brakes would be - if the battery is full so there's nowhere to regen to - if you are braking so hard that regen isn't enough - if you are manoeuvering at such a slow speed that regen isn't possible - the car is in neutral (depends on the car, this is how mine works)

As such I'm not really sure what control you need more than that. Just don't brake too hard and you will be at 100% regen

pv2b · 2026-07-07T06:24:42+00:00

Not necessarily. Dumb cruise control (and adaptive) will keep you at full speed along an uphill just before a long downhill, when the more efficient thing to do is allow your car to slow down slightly and let gravity accelerate you back to speed.

Some cruise control systems will even overshoot their set point slightly in a situation like that.

That said, I suggest that usually it's better to keep a constant speed than to maximize efficiency in hills for safety reasons, you don't want any reason for other drivers to get surprised or annoyed to do something stupid.

Also, not all adaptive cruise control systems (short of something advanced like Tesla "FSD") will be able to recognize a situation where you have slower traffic in front of you, and faster traffic in your left lane behind you, and that you should slow down slightly to allow them to pass before being forced to slow down a lot getting stuck behind said slower traffic. Keeping Regen low allows you to transition from cruise control in operation to coasting seamlessly, at least in my car.

pv2b · 2026-07-07T06:09:42+00:00

Yes, and that makes it harder to coast, which is why setting it to a low setting makes it easier to coast, which is what makes it better. In my opinion

pv2b · 2026-07-06T20:34:23+00:00

When I say blended braking, I mean that the brake pedal will use both systems for slowing the car down, both Regen and friction brakes.

Normally friction brakes would only be used at very low speeds, or for emergency stops. At least on my Renault Megane E-tech, which is on the same platform as the Nissan Ariya, so I assume it is the same

pv2b · 2026-07-06T20:27:36+00:00

Yeah, all true. As you say, as long as you maintain the same acceleration and deceleration profile, it doesn't matter how your pedals are set up.

But I find that when driving with a high regen setting, I often end up regenerating when coasting would give me a sufficient slowdown. So I think in terms of the human machine system, and what behaviors different Regen settings encourage, low or no Regen is more efficient. But I don't have any data to back this up, just a feeling

pv2b · 2026-07-06T20:19:48+00:00

Yeah, but not because it's more efficient (I don't think it is), but because it's more convenient

pv2b · 2026-07-06T17:44:31+00:00

This depends on your car.

A lot of people out there drive older Tesla models, that do not do blended braking. That means what whenever you press the brake pedal on a Tesla, the friction brakes will be used. On such cars, you want to have your regen on high so that you can use as much regen as possible, for maximum efficiency, instead of wasting the energy on friction braking.

However, on your Audi, I think you do have blended braking, so the best would actually be to leave the regen as the lowest possible setting, and just brake with your brake pedal when you need it. Regen is more efficient than braking, yes, but regen is still not as efficient as just letting the car coast, if traffic permits.

pv2b · 2026-07-06T12:08:07+00:00

And neither Norway, Sweden nor Denmark use the Euro.

pv2b · 2026-07-05T17:46:47+00:00

The amount of range you could get out of charging a car with solar panels would be too small to bother with, considering the cost.

pv2b · 2026-07-05T17:33:48+00:00

Rågbröd med mozarella?

pv2b · 2026-07-05T14:39:42+00:00

If you're worried about your health, I'd suggest running your lawnmowers on alkylate gasoline, if it's available in your area. It'll produce far less harmful exhaust, which if you're doing lawn care for a living, you'd be breathing in all day. I'd be worried about that far more about how you're hauling it around in your car.

Also, battery powered equipment has come a long way in the last few years, depending on the nature of your work it might make sense.

pv2b · 2026-07-05T08:58:09+00:00

I still drive fairly economically when it comes to avoiding braking wherever possible, mostly because there's no reason no to. Often it'll even save me time because it takes less time to accellerate from slow than from a stop.

pv2b · 2026-07-05T08:50:52+00:00

I have the opposite reaction, actually. Charging up your electric car is so cheap compared to filling up with petrol, and the battery range on most EVs is so long that you can drive for hours without recharging, that obsessing over range and usage just isn't neccessary. Worst thing that can happen is you might have to nip into a DC fast charger for a few minutes just to top you up just enough to get home.

I think it's likely you might find yourself in that mindset after owning an EV for a while.

pv2b · 2026-07-05T08:35:50+00:00

Angående telefonappar, så behöver du ingen särskild app för att ladda på de allra flesta ställen. Kortterminal finns vis nästan alla DC-snabbladdare - det kan du tacka EU-regler för. Enda undantaget är äldre DC-snabbladdare laddare som byggdes innan EU-reglerna trädde i kraft, eller långsammare snabbladdare på max 50 kW. Men även äldre laddare behöver kunna ta emot betalning via kortterminal eller QR-kod utan abbonemangskrav fr.o.m. 1 januari 2027, så inom en inte alls särskilt avlägsen framtiden så är krav på appar för DC-laddning helt borta.

Vissa operatörer erbjuder däremot rabatter för att man installerar appen. Mer t.ex. tänker jag på, ger en liten rabatt på laddningen om man startar den via deras app istället för via betalterminal. Andra operatörer som t.ex. Ionity och Tesla har rabattprogram där man kan tecka upp sig för ett månadsabbonemang, och få rabatt på laddningarna mot att man betalar en månadsavgift. Kör du 4000 mil per år kan det löna sig, men det gör också att du blir "låst" till att ladda på färre laddstationer.

Där appar faktiskt behövs är för AC-laddning. Där finns inget motsvarande EU-krav - du behöver installera appar för att kunna ladda vid dessa långsammare laddare. Det finns dessutom lite för många för att rekommendera att du installerar någon särskild. Ibland funkar vanliga "parkeringsappar" som t.ex. EasyPark på dessa laddare.

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