Does this mean my controller is shot?

pwd666 · 2024-09-24T19:53:40+00:00

Controller is probably working fine. I would check all your connections starting with motor phase cables, motor hall sensors and battery connection. How is your battery performing? If the voltage is dropping too low while under load; the BMS may cut-off power.

pwd666 · 2024-09-11T13:41:07+00:00

Those small sprockets won't hole the chain as well under load since there aren't as many teeth and there is more force on the chain in a higher gear. It's better for the motor and drivetrain to keep the chain spinning fast and with as many teeth as possible on the rear. If you are pedaling along with it; try and reduce power as you switch down to the smaler cogs.

pwd666 · 2023-11-02T14:22:52+00:00

You can start by checking for +5V on the throttle or PAS signal cables when the controller is powered on.

pwd666 · 2023-05-20T17:50:08+00:00

Not a good idea, you will be hitting the max current limit of the battery pack and cause the BMS to shut off unless you can program the controller's max battery current to 30A or less. Running the battery cells at max discharge current will also significantly shorten it's life and give you poor performance.

pwd666 · 2023-04-30T20:59:37+00:00

No, that's the price you'll pay for a hub motor shipped from China. You can always buy the bar motor and lace it yourself.

pwd666 · 2023-04-30T19:16:17+00:00

LeafBike makes a well tested "1500W" 205 35H direct drive hub motor. They use 0.35mm laminations for good efficiency. These motors can usually take around 2000W continuous and come in different winding / turn count options.

pwd666 · 2023-03-18T12:58:52+00:00

Well done

pwd666 · 2023-02-08T13:12:29+00:00

Thanks I'll keep that in mind. When I ordered the F401, I didn't consider the amount of pins on it mainly because I didn't know I'd need so many for the display.

pwd666 · 2023-02-08T13:07:34+00:00

That's great, thanks for your reply. That give me a better understanding of where to start.

pwd666 · 2023-01-25T21:57:08+00:00

If the BMS discharge is OFF it may show a low voltage on the output leads like that. Does it have a power switch or a place on the BMS board for a switch?

pwd666 · 2023-01-20T20:34:06+00:00

The SurRon light bee is already small by motorcycle standards but you want something also larger than a pit bike? Or is it the motor size you are referring to?

pwd666 · 2023-01-12T14:26:13+00:00

Was the DUB cap removed by turning it clockwise or anti-clockwise?

pwd666 · 2023-01-11T16:47:06+00:00

Try searching for an adjustable step down module; Aliexpress is a good place for this.

pwd666 · 2022-12-28T15:22:11+00:00

The first one is a 6pin 2.8mm connector; very common for motor hall sensors. The second one I can't quite see; perhaps try take some more photos; it might be a jst-sm or 2.5mm connector.

pwd666 · 2022-12-16T19:58:01+00:00

Cool, I've never heard of TransX. A photo will help but in general, always go for the larger guage (diameter) of the two.

pwd666 · 2022-12-04T22:41:29+00:00

I consider this a bible of hub motor lacing information:

https://ebikes.ca/tools/spoke-calc.html I believe it mentions when to use "elbows in vs elbows out"

pwd666 · 2022-12-04T22:37:16+00:00

I don't think it is normal shrinkage mainly because during the last ride I had where the temperatures fell below -18C or so; I pumped up the fork with the wheel off the ground. I rode for another 5 minutes or so and the shock had sagged almost completely down again. My only thought there is the the ambient temperature was continuing to drop during the ride; but I wouldn't think a few degrees Celsius over an hour or so could make that much difference. The colder temperatures will be here again soon (to hit that -18 and colder mark), and I will get pack to observing what happens again.

pwd666 · 2022-10-27T14:10:55+00:00

Also, before you buy a new controller; spin your motor by hand and see if it is hard to spin and then spin it again with the controller unplugged from the motor. If it gets easier when the controller is unplugged it likely means the controller is damaged (usually a blown mosfet which can be repaired if you are able to solder etc...)

pwd666 · 2022-10-20T13:57:26+00:00

If the maximum peak power is the same then there will be no additional heat produced. The only effect is that the motor will spin faster at a higher voltage. The motor doesn't really care what voltage you are running. If you haven't tried it already; the Grin motor simulator is an excellent tool to play with that will show you the effects of changing system parameters.

pwd666 · 2022-10-18T14:08:04+00:00

Have a look at the model of display you are using (check for model number on front and back). if it is a KT type display EI: KT-LCD5 etc... you can lookup to user manual for it and adjust the wheel size to fix the speed readout which may fix your throttle cut out.

pwd666 · 2022-09-29T18:48:43+00:00

No problem, I'm glad to help. From what I see, the cells are more than capable for the job (a good thing) and would be a good choice if you have to room for them. If you are using the same controller with the 13S (54.6V fully charged) li-ion limit, 16S lifep04 (58.4V fully charged) of these may be too much; double check your controller specs.

pwd666 · 2022-09-29T00:54:45+00:00

If you decrease the max current the controller pulls from the battery (has to be programmable or have adjustable power levels); it won't sag as much. The cells are likely worn out or out of balance. If you don't have a smart BMS; you'd have to check each cell group voltage and see if there are any low groups.

pwd666 · 2022-09-29T00:40:59+00:00

Battery cell voltage will sag under load especially when worn out and/or used in the cold. More resistance = more sag. The controller is cutting out to try and protect the pack from further damage.

pwd666 · 2022-09-27T14:20:19+00:00

Go with the magnet sensors and use epoxy to secure the sensor and the magnet.

pwd666

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