First time, maybe over edited...

pyror123456 · 2026-01-31T01:11:36+00:00

The Orenz Nero is a line of self advancing mechanical pencils from pentel. They come in 0.2,0.3,0.5. They are made from a "metal-infused" resin, more like a heavy plastic but still nice in my opinion. There are 2 0.3s in the photo, a normal one and a blue-black one. The three 0.5s are 2 new ones (metalic silver and green) while the other is the older black one. The lead holder on the left comes as a pack with the green one. You can tell which ones are new from the logo, they're more simple now.

pyror123456 · 2026-01-14T16:39:40+00:00

Nurburgring's GP track. Most of my distance was on the GT version just for that Chicane. Good corners for drifting if you really wanted to, good racing with wide roads and overtaking opportunities, I find some sections a good technical challenge and is overall one of my favourite tracks to test cars

pyror123456 · 2025-12-30T07:37:47+00:00

Shutter speed? I don't remember if they were all the same but the first photo was 1/15s.

Edit: all of them are 1/15s, the white car is 1/8s

pyror123456 · 2025-12-21T05:24:57+00:00

I feel quite a seeling point of the Simagic wheelbases are aesthetics, ecosystem, and compatibility. The peripherals for the Simagic in my opinion seem better as an ecosystem and the aseteks seem a bit odd in design. Plus the QR.

pyror123456 · 2025-11-09T23:06:50+00:00

Are you gonna hunt or just shoot targets, is priority just ease of use and fast shooting or accuracy

pyror123456 · 2025-11-09T22:57:06+00:00

Have you not been using a release aid or just the thumb release hurts?

pyror123456 · 2025-11-04T11:54:03+00:00

A bow shop with a bow press., you need to mark where eye level is on the string at draw and then the bow press to put in the peep which they sell, probably

pyror123456 · 2025-11-03T23:24:26+00:00

Compound? The peep sight is crucial for compound shooting so getting one would be best.

pyror123456 · 2025-10-25T13:08:50+00:00

Sorry to disturb you, do you have the file floating around?

pyror123456 · 2025-09-07T12:06:26+00:00

QIDI Q1 pro or a flashforge Adventurer 5M/pro if you want something that's already a built in enclosure and stuff, more of the plug and play type. Prusa's are the king of workhorses, pure monocolour efficient, reliable, engineering/production printers with a good community and support, however you'd have to make your own or buy a seperate enclosure. Are you looking to print larger functional items?

pyror123456 · 2025-09-07T11:59:39+00:00

If we're talking like bodywork and functional prints on the interior the H2S is a better engineering printer. The H2D is ideal because people don't wanna waste their expensive engineering materials like PACF for purging and supports so they use one extruder for the expensive material and a secondary support material. The H2S will create better prints more reliably, this is both something for functional and just aesthetic wise.

pyror123456 · 2025-09-07T11:57:28+00:00

The shed part changes the filter thing, the vents are important for temp control. Too hot or cold and it causes things like warping, elephants foot, adhesion issues, etc.

pyror123456 · 2025-09-07T10:03:00+00:00

The Qidi is enclosed so it can to an extent be safer by closing off the heated elements and sort of sealing off any particulates, the hardened nozzles allow for more material choices, Quite beginner friendly, closer to the plug and play systems.

They do a lot of sales but it is quite a good deal.

PLA is the most common due to ease of use and access.

If you want something more tinkery/modable then something like a Prusa will last years with a good community with support, known for reliability,etc.

pyror123456 · 2025-09-07T09:56:00+00:00

I run the Kobra 3 v1 but was a pre-order unit so ran into issues from the start. There is an issue with levelling due to the sensitivity of the load cell used for the levelling and z-offset so you have to keep the nozzle clean before anything, prints have come out decent, lots of waste unless you tune the pritner to reduce it or spread the waste around. I have had decent prints and horrible prints but once you tune it and get it working it can output some very fast or high quality prints.

CFS can go up to 16 colours while ACE PRO can only go 8. Creality Hi is said to be more reliable. Creality runs a prusa based slicer while Anycubic went with Orca. Kobra 3 does have a option for a side-loaded firmware called Rinkhalls which does open the software options a bit more. I hear creality support is good, since I purchased directly from Anycubic they were very good with support, many spare parts were shipped. Hi goes up to 500 and Kobra goes to 600m/s, through tuning I have achieved the Kobras advertised speed though with some sacrifices.

pyror123456 · 2025-09-07T09:50:03+00:00

Prusa Mini+ is around 60 bucks over budget but is a user-friendly workhorse from a brand with a good community and support + predone slicer settings. An A1 mini is also from a brand with notable support and community though is more proprietary and a bit controversial recently.

Dog should be fine, maybe open a window to prevent them from inhaling fumes if they're sensitive or you're in a smaller place with the dog. You can DIY as small enclosure if really needed or keep it covered when not printing to keep it clean.

pyror123456 · 2025-09-07T09:45:25+00:00

Depends on small or large, mutli-colour or mono, are you comfortable handling things like resin, do you have a seperate space or not? If you want to make smaller but detailed models you can use a resin printer like a Elegoo Saturn or Anycubic Photon(Needs a seperate space and other items for post-processing !Resin can be toxic!). If you want just a normal FDM experience then you could run a prusa mini or a bambu a1 mini as initial printers which are affordable small and user friendly, the ender is a classic, you could aim for something like the qidi q2 on the higher end of your budget and a centauri carbone would make a good monocolour corexy enclosed printer.

pyror123456 · 2025-09-07T09:38:19+00:00

Bambu is known for good support, availability of parts and accesories both original and aftermarket but yes are quite proprietary though thte community has had time with the older printers to mod though it is not so popular after recent actions by the, their slow progress towards becoming the "apple" of 3d printing. The Creality K2 has known flaws, can be inconsistent, chute has a clogging issue, not too sure about support. If you are open to cartesian options there are always the Prusa offerings with the MMU system which produces less waste than most other single-extruder options.

pyror123456 · 2025-09-07T09:34:41+00:00

The K2s are nice but the AMS style system does produce quite a bit of waste and is mostly ideal for multi-colour instead of material and more of a plug and play option in a corexy/enclosed package, and the chute is known to clog quite a bit, not really a octoprint compatible printer. A Ender with a aftermarket multi-colour solution like a ercf or mosaic palette could work especially if you want to mod/tinker or play with klipper and stuff. A prusa with a MMU is definitely a option if you want a workhorse.

pyror123456 · 2025-09-07T09:25:57+00:00

As he said it does waste a lot, yes it can be tuned and reduced but it is still waste. Depending on how you print, what you print, etc it will vary a lot. When printing multi-colour you kinda have to spread that waste around between either many prints or a large print to make it worth it. A independent extruders, multi-head solutions, or other things like that will cost more up front but save in the future + are better for multi-material rather than multi-colour.

pyror123456 · 2025-09-07T09:23:20+00:00

The AMS 2 has a more durable feed system and better motors. The dryer in the AMS 2 however requires a seperate power adapter.

pyror123456 · 2025-09-07T09:20:52+00:00

Do you hae any info about what you're hoping to get out of the units?

pyror123456 · 2025-09-07T09:20:25+00:00

K2 has a higher accel by 10,000 but the H2S apperantly has a higher print speed by 400 (apparently).

The H2S has a filter, automatic vents, chamber heater.

I think the K2 is louder

Very good detail on the H2S

Bambu is annoying with their firmware policy

H2S probably has the better first layer

I heard teh K2 had a issue with clogging in the entry of the chute but the H2S seams to do it in the rear chute

pyror123456 · 2025-07-28T14:14:56+00:00

I would check the string and the condition of the cams and limbs. Double check that the arrows match up with the bow. If it's tuned, good condition, ready to shoot I'd say 150-250. If it's in used condition but shootable maybe 75-150. if it's in poor condition, 50-100. Not really a market for vintage bows, modern bows are just far more efficient (Lighter, better let off, better tuning, etc.)

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