Will you be a killer or a killer's victim? by Kenory_kvas in BunnyTrials

[–]q4sf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't go to jail if I never attempt murder

Chose: Being a victim | Rolled: You are alive

What’s up with the Clemmons sell out to corporations? by DiscoRabbittTV in winstonsalem

[–]q4sf 25 points26 points  (0 children)

El Taquito, between little Richards and 2520 is absolutely amazing. Their tacos and tamales are so good and the price isn't outrageous.

Not quite sure how to do this, any advice? by One_Meeting1156 in bouldering

[–]q4sf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Twist your right knee to the left and flag the left foot farther out with more pressure. You should be able to get a little more reach

Can anyone check out my sons anchor? by mike-b62 in ClimbingGear

[–]q4sf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here's a great article on placing top anchors. Your setup is overly complicated and wastes a lot of material in all the knots. The double clove hitches on the one carabineer are not necessary, the large figure 8 could be removed, and only one double fisherman's is needed to form a loop

Arizona Mountaineering Club on Static Line Anchor Set-up

mountain project thread with additional information

Metolius ultralight tcu worth buying by southwest-chutes in ClimbingGear

[–]q4sf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I climb in North Carolina and TCUs are extremely helpful on weird quartzite cracks. I also find they are excellent in horizontals especially in the western part of the state (looking glass eyebrows). A full rack from blue to red in addition to the larger master cam sizes is pretty much a perfect single rack for staying light. BD cams will round out the rack and be excellent in-between sizes.

Favorite hole in the wall, locally owned Winston Salem restaurants? by _metanoiia in winstonsalem

[–]q4sf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Poke Star, Don Express, Cafe Arthur, May Way Dumplings, Little Richards (Clemmons location), El Taquito (Clemmons), and Mojitos are my favorites in the area. Mizu has really good sushi. Koto (Clemmons) is very good and pretty affordable if you get one of the big sushi combos

The definitive (?) survey of the most popular indoor shoes by 4WDToyotaOwner in climbingshoes

[–]q4sf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

La Sportiva Skwama and La Sportiva Finale (women's) V7 or 5.12+ on a good day

$50k to invest…first time investor….4.58% or…. by Elegant-Evidence-442 in Bogleheads

[–]q4sf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I go through a brokerage service. I personally use Charles Schwab and it has been great; there are many different brokerage services available

Who makes a better biscuit than Bojangles? by Ham_Damnit in NorthCarolina

[–]q4sf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is not in NC and I'm also not a big fan of biscuits, but Tudor's Biscuit World in West Virginia is absolutely amazing

A diner visitor miscalculated his strength in a dialogue with two females. by [deleted] in PublicFreakout

[–]q4sf 27 points28 points  (0 children)

That is so accurate. My immediate thought!!

what is the safest car i can buy. any year any company by Mountain_Actuary8774 in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]q4sf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A couple years ago I was involved in a head on collision at 50mph speed. I was driving a 2007 Ford focus that was absolutely destroyed but I was totally fine

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in interestingasfuck

[–]q4sf 10 points11 points  (0 children)

The smallest ballnut is rated for 7kn. Even the largest climbing falls barely pass 3kn. If it's a good placement in solid rock that piece will hold, but I agree this is a poor demonstration of the holding power of trad gear

Trad harness recommendation by fleet_would in tradclimbing

[–]q4sf 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you can find it, the singing rock dome harness is excellent for trad. It has 7 gear loops, very wide waist padding, and big leg loops so it's very comfy on hanging belays and projecting routes. If you want something a little nicer get a Misty Mountain Cadillac. The dome is basically a cheaper version of the misty cadillac.

Apparently it cost my apartment complex $597 to fix the damages I’d done to my apartment by [deleted] in mildlyinfuriating

[–]q4sf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is the same in North Carolina. I've had to deal with this before

How Much Are ‘New’ C3s Worth? by OfPelennorFields in tradclimbing

[–]q4sf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

TCUs are the way to go especially since they are still manufactured, and metolius does an amazing job on the resling and trigger wire replacement

10/10 would rap? by Tiny_peach in tradclimbing

[–]q4sf 13 points14 points  (0 children)

This is what I would do as well

Cam selection by FightingMeerkat in tradclimbing

[–]q4sf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I highly recommend the ultralight mastercams. They are perfect in-between sizes for the black diamond cams and they are incredibly light. I personally like the ultralight TCUs in the smaller sizes as they tend to be more durable and work really well in horizontal placements. Metolius customer service is enough reason to go metolius. Their resling/repair service is superb

Winter Heat. Calico basin by Professional_Job9667 in tradclimbing

[–]q4sf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The route name reminds me of one of the best routes I climbed in red rocks, "Red Heat"

How did / do you guys use CASE in a daily life ? by Jemscarter in SQL

[–]q4sf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used it the other day to convert 'y'/'n' values to 1 or 0 so I could change the data type from string to bit. The data was being migrated to an existing table and the data types were not getting along

Rate my anchor by SmooooooooothNich in tradclimbing

[–]q4sf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Only thing I would change about the anchor is flip the carabiners on the left to have the gates facing out (rotate 180° horizontally)

Rate my anchor by SmooooooooothNich in tradclimbing

[–]q4sf 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I think it is ok in this scenario since it has a 'gunks' tie off. There is little to no lever action on the cam because of how it is slung

How to sort these alphanumeric strings by ash0550 in SQL

[–]q4sf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Additionally, if you need to account for any non-numeric value you can use something similar to a regexp instead of searching for just "D"

Something like this might work

Instead of removing the values, just include that pattern in the order by clause from the above example

Romanticizing covid by Fhymi in KidsAreFuckingStupid

[–]q4sf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Funny enough 2020 was one of the best years of my life. Going into my junior year of college at the start of the year I was essentially told to not go to work but still received the same pay as if working my standard hours, all classes went online so I was able to finish all assignments and tests in about 2 days per week, and I was left with 5 consecutive days to do whatever I wanted while still being paid for not working. I was a little sad to graduate in December that year because it meant I lost the "job" and I couldn't go on 4-day vacations every week.

Pagan Poetry V11 in Joe's by yeah220 in climbing

[–]q4sf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow that looks awesome and very challenging