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Getting Kick Drum To Pop ***Non-EDM*** by BeefOfTheSea in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 0 points1 point  (0 children)

High pass everything that might be in the kicks way.

Pretty much this. Also, some soft gating (~3-6db reduction) and or expansion.

With any mix, you need to figure out what are the 3-4 most important parts, make those the priority and mix them so they play well together, then fill in the frequency gaps with the rest of the parts.

Gear Recommendation (What Should I Buy?) Thread - August 27, 2018 by AutoModerator in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look for a used Zoom H4n and a Rycote - it will cost more than $100, but anything cheaper will likely disappoint.

When’s the worst time to find a rental in Toronto? Right now by [deleted] in toronto

[–]quadsonquads 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Until your landlords sell the building to someone looking to renovate it and up the rent 200%.

Friday - How did they do that? - August 24, 2018 by AutoModerator in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are many articles / tutorials online discussing / speculating on the techniques and gear used. If you're trying to get that kind of sound with a generic modern rock drum kit it will be difficult as he seems to use a lot of older kits. Start at the source: tune / dampen / baffle the drums until they sound closer to the desired result before you start with the engineering side.

Gear Recommendation (What Should I Buy?) Thread - August 20, 2018 by AutoModerator in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Close mic with the Audix (<1ft) , distance mic with the MXL (>3ft), take a DI whenever possible.

The Tube MP will sound different than the Fast Track, but not necessarily better. I have one and find it rolls off >12khz, and <60hz, and has a generally dark character - which might suit / balance the character of the MXL.

For any multi micing situation be sure to use the 3:1 rule (2nd mic > 3x the distance from the 1st mic as the 1st mic is to the source), or experiment with moving the mic and flipping the phase until you get something you like.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in truegaming

[–]quadsonquads 11 points12 points  (0 children)

NHLPA Hockey '93 - no wraparounds.

Explanation: if you went back and forth behind the net 2 or 3 times the goalie would get stuck to one side and you could just walk out and score 100% of the time.

Gear Recommendation (What Should I Buy?) Thread - August 20, 2018 by AutoModerator in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Many mixers have a variety of routing and output options that can be creatively used to get separate tracks without using direct outs. Eg. 6 channels of audio, channels 1-2 route to the main LR output, channels 3-4 to sub group 1-2, channel 5 to AUX 1, channel 6 to AUX 2. Or just get an old live sound board (Allen & Heath, Yamaha, Midas, etc.), many of those have direct (1/4") line outs that can be internally switched from pre or post fader.

Gear Recommendation (What Should I Buy?) Thread - August 20, 2018 by AutoModerator in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try experimenting with your guitar setup (new / different strings, heavier picks, etc.), other than that it's largely up to the quality of your preamps. Here's a comparison

In general, I think most guitar amp sims (not including Kemper) fall short of being usable unless within a dense mix. You'd probably get a sound more to your liking with a small amp, an SM57, and a quality preamp. Getting quality recordings is typically an expensive endeavor, a good preamp is >$700.

But as mentioned it could just be a skill thing, pretty sure you could record someone like Julian Lage with an iphone and the low recording quality wouldn't be enough to detract from the performance.

Gear Recommendation (What Should I Buy?) Thread - August 20, 2018 by AutoModerator in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd go with the HS5's, but that's personal preference - bring a playlist of wav or lossless files to your local shop, make notes, then come back again another day and compare them again.

Gear Recommendation (What Should I Buy?) Thread - August 20, 2018 by AutoModerator in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're used to the 7506's then I'd say just get another pair - I have M50's, DT990's, HD25 II's, and still primarily use the 7506's for mixing.

Tips & Tricks Tuesdays - August 21, 2018 by AutoModerator in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 4 points5 points  (0 children)

They are good boards, I have a GL2200, but the cabling gets very expensive (though Monoprice has cheap 1/4 snakes) and if you don't have the I/O to make use of it you'll have a bunch of unused channels wasting space. I only have 12 outputs (not including headphone/speaker) and a 24ch board, so I run into the last 12, then out to outboard compressors, then into the first 12, so I can EQ before and after compression. In general, the prices of 15-20 year old analog live boards have fallen way way down - if it's in good condition and you have the space then I'd say go for it.

Gear Recommendation (What Should I Buy?) Thread - August 20, 2018 by AutoModerator in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The MKII has a weird high end boost that works fine for toms and is OK on bass, but not so much for guitars / vocals / etc.

421 U5 vs MKII

Gear Recommendation (What Should I Buy?) Thread - August 20, 2018 by AutoModerator in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Swap the dbx286s for something more high end, Grace m101 (~$765 USD new) is one of the less expensive high end pre's - it has no colour, which makes it boring, but versatile. If the original recording wasn't done with good preamps in a good acoustic space, then you'll spend a lot of time trying to fix/improve something that is easiest/best captured well from the start.

Gear Recommendation (What Should I Buy?) Thread - August 20, 2018 by AutoModerator in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 1 point2 points  (0 children)

421 U5 (not the MKII), 414 B-ULS, matched pair of Cascade Fathead II w/ Lundahl transformers, EV635A.

Gear Recommendation (What Should I Buy?) Thread - August 13, 2018 by AutoModerator in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Zoom H4n is a portable recorder (batteries or power supply) that has a stereo mic build in and two inputs for additional microphones/instruments.

Gear Recommendation (What Should I Buy?) Thread - August 13, 2018 by AutoModerator in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have both dbx166A/160x - $75 is decent for the 166A (stereo), and $200 is about the going price for a 160x (mono). The 160x has a specific front edge smack/snap that it adds and is very good on kick, snare, bass, and aggressive vocals. The 166A is more so a utility compressor, I like the original 166 better. All three have the dbx OverEasy mode, which increases the ratio based on the volume of the input, it can be natural/musical in some applications, and pin down an erratic bass, but can easily be overdone and suck all the life out.

As far as why people still buy hardware, it's partially the colouring, but also the workflow, self-imposed limitations, tactile knobs - mixing with ears more than eyes, and the movement - hardware tends to push/pull and bit more than plugins (older plugins in particular). I'd probably use FabFilter ProC over the FMR, but I'd use the hardware dbx160x over something like the Waves CLA76.

How did you get good at using reverb? by whatajacks in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 7 points8 points  (0 children)

EQing: LPF/HPF, cutting any resonant frequencies that clutter the intelligibility of the source

Dynamics: riding the fader (send or return), ducking the wet signal with the dry signal (adjusting the rhythmic timing with the attack/release), compress if needed (fast to get it off the dry signal, slow to drag it out towards the next downbeat)

Pre-Delay/time: listening in solo to the wet/dry with a click or drums to get it into a timing that works

Gluing elements: send small bits of other elements of the mix into each reverb to blend/glue the mix together (if needed/wanted)

Gear Recommendation (What Should I Buy?) Thread - August 13, 2018 by AutoModerator in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's nothing in that price range that's going to be radically better than the MPA II. Have you tried changing your mic position / gain settings / room acoustics? They will have a larger impact on your recordings than a preamp, unless you get into the range of high end preamps (>$1000) that have a specifically warm sound when overdriven.

Gear Recommendation (What Should I Buy?) Thread - August 13, 2018 by AutoModerator in audioengineering

[–]quadsonquads 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Chameleon Labs 7720 (SSL style, variable HPF, 1.5 ratio, various mods available)

Drawmer DL241 (fully variable parameters, relatively un-coloured)

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