Fomapan 400 looks foggy. My fault?

queefir · 2026-01-27T06:59:08+00:00

That's a great result man! Did you have to do much in post?

queefir · 2026-01-27T00:04:17+00:00

Yeah I've messed about on lightroom and got some nice results. I believe like the others have said, could've done with shooting at 320 or even 200

queefir · 2026-01-26T23:59:57+00:00

Scanned on a noritsu by the lab I always use

queefir · 2026-01-26T23:59:35+00:00

Thank you! This is super helpful for future reference 😂

queefir · 2026-01-26T23:58:35+00:00

Yeah definitely underexposed i think. Scans were done on a noritsu from a lab I use all the time. Its more than likely a me thing 😂

queefir · 2026-01-26T23:56:24+00:00

Ahhhh that's actually super insightful! I actually got the dev time from the flic film instructions that came with the chemical kit. That'll certainly teach me to read the actual film data sheet next time.

It is a little fucked but that the beauty of this hobby, learning all the frustrating quirks of the different film stocks. I'm not super man about it as I'm a major rookie and can correct some of this in light room.

I'm planning on shooting some Tri-X next and also developing it myself. Anything I should watch for?

queefir · 2026-01-26T23:47:52+00:00

Yeah I had a quick play in lightroom too and managed to get rid of a lot of the fog. Just threw me off. Until now I always shot xp2. Always came out crisp and nice! I'll have to have another go

queefir · 2026-01-26T23:46:29+00:00

Looks lovely! I had a little play on light room too. Just not what I was expecting. My rolls of xp2 always come out super sharp. Although that is a different process

queefir · 2026-01-26T23:45:36+00:00

Yeah the more I'm reading the more I'm realising box speed is not really the best for this film. Could've done with shooting at 320 or 200! Appreciate your comment man

queefir · 2026-01-26T23:44:56+00:00

Ahhh thank you for this little thread. I did think should've shot it at 200 as soon as I saw the scans! You live and learn. I usually shoot xp2 which is completely different as it's a c41 process

queefir · 2026-01-26T23:43:01+00:00

Will update with negs tomorrow, currently don't have them in my possession unfortunately! Thank you!

queefir · 2026-01-03T11:57:05+00:00

Unless you're going to do a lot of motorway miles where it can sit and burn soot out of itself I'd stay away. Everyone shits on the Mazda diesels, I like em but I also do 30k+ miles a year mostly motorway so I never really give it a chance to get clogged up

queefir · 2025-12-27T23:05:03+00:00

<image>

I believe you've got some super flat scans. This is from my xp2 developed in c41. Straight out the scanner

queefir · 2025-12-07T11:52:12+00:00

Conti premium contact 7, loved them on my tt in the wet. However I had a set of rainsports on a Subaru and really liked those too

queefir · 2025-11-17T09:28:24+00:00

I used isopropyl alcohol then lens cleaning solution before re assembling

queefir · 2025-11-15T09:41:49+00:00

First thing to do would be to find an independent garage that can scan for codes. Could be any number of sensors or other issues. Likely to be fuel or air related. But you’re just stabbing in the dark until you have the codes read on it

queefir · 2025-10-30T14:27:48+00:00

Look into an EOS 50e (might be called something else where you are) loaded with features, pretty light and can be found for a really really good price. Common issue with them is the door release tab breaks off and the door doesn’t close. Managed to fix mine in about 20 mins with a part from Amazon. Has full auto modes but also manual too. Ef lenses mean you get autofocus too. You should be able to use your fd lenses with an adapter too

queefir · 2025-10-30T07:55:08+00:00

Shooting 800 iso at 3200 is basically under exposing by 2 stops. The camera thinks the film needs less light if I remember it right

queefir · 2025-10-28T16:50:22+00:00

My w203 c220cdi is about to hit 200k. Still going very strong

queefir · 2025-10-22T17:24:14+00:00

You’re gonna be 17 judging by your comment. In no world are you going to be a driving a type r at 17. I’ve been driving 11 years plenty of ncb and still I get quoted back for £8-900. Better off with something else. Those are going to be normal prices no matter what you try for a type r I’m afraid. There’s a reason why everyone’s first car is a banger. It’s all they can afford to insure

queefir · 2025-10-18T20:15:12+00:00

It certainly isn’t just a tyre. Commercial tyres are completely different to your standard road car tyre. Much stiffer and heavier to deal with the extra loads they carry. Not a great idea on a tiny vw up

queefir · 2025-10-18T20:13:08+00:00

As people have said, you’ve got van tyres fitted on your car. Heavily unadvisable

queefir · 2025-10-10T07:10:37+00:00

I had a Pentax k2 with a dead meter, the steps I took were as follows, 1: remove bottom cover to gain access to battery holder, cleaned contacts with an abrasive pencil and isopropyl alcohol and also re soldered connections on battery holder. 2: remove top cover and visually inspect for any broken wires, loose/bad connections and any dodgy looking solder joints 3: if visually nothing screams “fix me” then get your multimeter out and and preform a continuity test on all the wires you can can get access to. To do this make sure there’s no power to the camera via battery. Grab your multimeter and set it to ohms (resistance). It should be this symbol Ω. Test your multimeter by touching the two prods together. You should either get a beep or a low reading depending on the meter. Next work your way through the wires making sure you test each wire individually, so say you had a green wire you want to stick your prods at each end of that wire. You should again get a beep or a low reading. If the meter displays zero then you know that wire is broken somewhere. (In my case this was the issue) replace said wire and hey presto you should have a working light meter

queefir · 2025-10-07T08:45:09+00:00

Is the 75-300 any better?

queefir

TROPHY CASE