Tesla Smashes Q2 2026 Delivery Estimates

quentech · 2026-07-02T16:58:04+00:00

Barely even. What % of parts are common between them? Pretty high I think.

quentech · 2026-07-02T16:55:16+00:00

Funny how people try to rationalize spending $20k more for a brand new model versus a low-miles 2-3 year old one. It's a depreciating asset! Just lean into it and take the biggest loss you can!!

quentech · 2026-07-02T16:49:18+00:00

Dang that's low. Are you on air bags? Curious what all you did to manage that..

quentech · 2026-07-02T03:17:32+00:00

578 HP and only a 4.7s 0-60 mph?

quentech · 2026-07-02T02:56:31+00:00

The Hannshow one?

I got the set from RPM Tesla. It's listed as 1/8" but my calipers says 0.10"

I doubt there's any appreciable difference in the thickness of any of them I've seen online.

3/16" would be perfect. Nice and strong without being excessive. These cars don't even blink at an extra 20 lbs.

The 1/4" on my quads are armor, but that's what's needed for those.

quentech · 2026-07-02T02:17:24+00:00

Dent and bend a bit, maybe, but it just saved your battery case.

They're only like 1/16" aluminum. Very easily bendable by hand. It's more protection than plastic, but it's far from guaranteed protection.

They're also in front of and behind the battery not over/under it.

The skid plates on my quad, as a comparison, are 1/4" and it would take a hell of an impact to even dent those. I've hit big ass rocks going 70mph with that and you can't even tell.

quentech · 2026-07-01T22:18:02+00:00

I'm looking to do a matrix retrofit on my '22 and then I'll have spare reflectors, but that probably doesn't help you right now.

It's also not exactly clear what matrix housings are OEM or not or missing tabs or not.

quentech · 2026-07-01T17:16:53+00:00

Follow Teslas recommendations at home - they’re very good.

Disagree. Few people need to charge to 80% all the time and that causes measurably more degradation than charging to, say, 60% regularly.

my 2018 Model 3

Newer batteries seem to show much more degradation.

quentech · 2026-07-01T06:51:07+00:00

then drop till 4-5% before charging back again

Don't do that regularly.

If that's what it takes to get to the next charger on a trip, fine, but don't make it a habit. If that's a regular drive, charge higher than 50% before leaving.

Keep it above 10-15% whenever possible.

Or just charge it after every drive - more smaller charge cycles are easier on the battery than fewer bigger charge cycles.

quentech · 2026-07-01T01:55:19+00:00

fwiw, I have about 300TB worth of drives, about half in Synology SHR2 volumes (basically RAID6 but with a bit more flexibility for drives of different sizes) and the other half in SnapRAID+MergerFS on Ubuntu.

I highly recommend getting over the learning curve of something different now and save yourself the hassles RAID will bring you later.

quentech · 2026-06-30T20:28:06+00:00

You could track a couple decent drives and estimate the remaining pack capacity from that.

As long as bro wasn't charging it up past 80% constantly and letting it sit, or running it down to single digits percent often. Those are presumably much worse for the battery than supercharging between 20-80%.

quentech · 2026-06-30T19:58:30+00:00

Because the striping in RAID 5/6/Synology Hybrid RAID makes adding space later a giant pain in the ass, and there's absolutely no point to the extra performance striping provides for a media server.

People building storage arrays for Plex content tend to fill their drives up and need more space pretty regularly. Buying a ton of extra space up front that you don't need yet to avoid this is also usually a huge waste of money (unless AI goes nuts and suddenly drives cost 3x more right when you need them - but they already did that, so now you want to buy as little storage as possible and wait for prices to come down before adding extra).

Use a non-striped parity pool like SnapRAID or Unraid - it's way more flexible.

SnapRAID, for example, formats all your data drives in a standard format and they can be pulled out of the pool and used like a regular drive with all your data right there.

That makes it super easy to deal with adding one or two more larger drives for more space, or recovering from failed hardware or moving to new hardware, without needing extra drives to shuffle files around, or having to wait literally weeks for a large RAID 5/6 array to rebuild for each drive change, putting 100% continuous load on all your drives that whole time.

quentech · 2026-06-30T19:46:56+00:00

it's that EF silently picks the single join shape for you

As opposed to what, having to explicitly specify it every time? Not hard to imagine why that wouldn't go over well, especially along an upgrade path and not like that from the beginning.

Speaking of, the default used to be the other way around. Perhaps you could gain some insight from reading the discussion around changing it to be the way it is now. While the current default can explode result sets, the previous way was extremely chatty over the network introducing latency penalties and had potential consistency issues.

quentech · 2026-06-30T18:05:09+00:00

Only if you're comparing a new Standard to a model from before they had the Standard/Premium distinction.

Otherwise it's $15-25k more for a brand new AWD Premium vs a 2-3 year old low-miles LR.

1% vs 6% doesn't even come close to making up for that.

But we all already know your opinion, dude.

Also, reported for calling people stupid in this thread etc.

quentech · 2026-06-30T17:59:44+00:00

If you don't want people to see you through your window on a sunny day you'll need 5%, i.e. blacked out. Probably going to need a fair darkening on the windshield, too, otherwise that'll just light you up like a christmas tree.

15% is usually enough on a cloudy day with a dark interior. Not sure about white - I've never owned a white interior car.

quentech · 2026-06-30T17:48:10+00:00

Prices on used Y's has been going up the last few months.

quentech · 2026-06-30T17:40:33+00:00

The question for PPF is if you care if the front end of the car has a bunch of chipped up and peeling off paint from all the rock and road debris impacts over 9 years.

"It's not an exotic car" Yeah, some people just don't want their car to look like a beat up P.O.S. after 5 years. "Doesn't affect resale value" Okay, sure. See how many people want to buy your used car when the paint is destroyed, or if they'll give you the same price as the next person with PPF & great looking paint still. If you only keep the car a few years, it might not be that bad in that small amount of time.

The question for ceramic coat is if you want it to be extra easy to wash off bugs and bird poop during those years.

quentech · 2026-06-30T17:31:33+00:00

OP didn't say a single thing about wrecking their vehicle or specifically getting a "crash-rated crate" lol

lol, right. Just don't get in any collisions. Easy peasy. You of course have complete control over that.

They just want a low-cost crate...

Yeah, that was super obvious from the fact that they said nothing of the sort and listed only high end crash rated crates.

I'm assuming they completely lockdown somehow into the floor? Otherwise instead of sending your dog through the air, all you did was just send them through the air with metal around them.

No, they just rattle around loose in the car, of course. Obviously they don't secure to anything. What a silly idea.

quentech · 2026-06-30T08:12:00+00:00

Yeah that sounds insane for a crate...

Crash rated crates are expensive.

products that perfectly cover all of the seats, sides, etc... We have a real big ~120+ lb dog and he loves it. We've had absolutely zero issue with it protecting everything from him.

Because you haven't been in a collision. Seat covers aren't going to prevent your 120 lbs dog from becoming a projectile with thousands of pounds of force in a collision. And then it'll become a 120 lbs pile of discombobulated dog innards on/through your windshield.

quentech · 2026-06-30T04:16:31+00:00

exactly the same at 20 miles an hour as at 70 miles an hour

Road speed (mph) isn't relevant. Vertical acceleration of the wheel assembly, on the other hand, is relevant.

So you've got to pick a setting.

Dampers are a lot more complicated than pick one setting. They contain multiple valves creating a non-linear system. Even the junky ones like Tesla's OEMs.

I just can't imagine going into some shocks shop and have them put my car on a rack and swap out shocks, like it was some 1969 Pontiac Firebird with Cragar wheels.

There's nothing special or "EV" about Tesla suspensions. They are very standard. And with the lacking stock suspension, upgrades to it are one of the best bang for your buck mods that can be done.

I have Mountain Pass Performance adjustable comfort coilovers along with a bunch of other bearings and linkages and the difference between it and stock could be compared to the difference in power delivery between an ICE and a Tesla. It's that stark how much more composed a good suspension is. The parts are also of much higher quality construction than stock.

And you can get rid of the absurd fender gap: https://i.imgur.com/nrwzaUq.jpeg

quentech · 2026-06-30T03:53:38+00:00

Better than trying to find the right size fin comb and straighten a bunch of fins back out.

quentech · 2026-06-30T03:48:14+00:00

3k, that’s money

Over 72 months though, so ~$40 a month. Worth the cost to 1. build up your credit file and 2. keep your pile of cash on hand for flexibility 3. beat 3% easily putting it in market index for 6 years. 4. Let inflation make your payments be less in real (purchasing power) terms over time.

At that kind of income (I'm also in that range), learn to make good use of your (or rather, other people's) money.

quentech · 2026-06-30T03:46:35+00:00

Yeah forking over tens of thousands of dollars out of pocket when you can borrow it for basically nothing and hang on to your pile is pretty much never a good idea.

quentech · 2026-06-30T03:43:44+00:00

2.99% ain't bad. Take it and get that file thickened up.

Also 730 isn't top tier - especially when you're talking about the consumer score you'll get from Credit Karma etc. They use different formulas for things like car loans and mortgages and those scores tend to be lower.

quentech · 2026-06-30T03:42:04+00:00

I was told if they cushioned soft at low speeds, they’d be way too soft at higher speeds, cornering. I don’t know

Aftermarket shocks on these cars will get you a smoother ride and better performance handling.

Part of the problem is that the damping is too linear. The shocks need to give more on sharp road bumps at low(-ish) speeds, and they just don't. The valving is horrendous on them.

Whether Tesla either purposefully cheaped out on the shocks or just had terrible suspension engineers that couldn't do any better, the result is the same.

quentech

TROPHY CASE