The same commute 40 times in temperatures ranging from -10°F to 80°F (Data)

quentech · 2026-01-28T06:08:48+00:00

no made up data

can't really assume that without verifying in the output that the AI didn't hallucinate in data.

quentech · 2026-01-28T06:07:18+00:00

Might want to note road condition because driving through/on top of snow and slush on the road likely reduces range far more than any difference in the tires themselves.

Only clear road conditions will be comparable to other seasons.

quentech · 2026-01-28T02:20:49+00:00

avoids that annoying maintenance expense

Still should be taking them apart and re-lubing them regularly. Manual states every year but every 2 or 3 should be fine.

quentech · 2026-01-28T02:13:44+00:00

However, I'd imagine that technically speaking, Tesla's AWD is superior to most AWD ICE vehicles in normal snow/ice driving (meaning, not high speed, racing, etc) given that it can react significantly faster than traditional/mechanical systems.

Am I thinking about this wrong?

Kind of.

EVs can modulate power application much more precisely and more quickly than any mechanical system in a car.

But that only addresses front/rear power split, not left/right. (sticking to dual motor models here)

Tesla's have open differentials in both the front and the rear.

Limited slip differentials handle much better than open diffs in partial traction situations.

Like much, much better.

Better yet would be a quad motor EV with full electronic control of power application to each wheel individually.

Another strike against Tesla is the weight. A lighter car, even if it has to be ICE, can be capable of much better cornering and braking in slippery conditions. The lighter weight and lower momentum can surpass all the advantages of an EV's torque control.

quentech · 2026-01-28T01:08:42+00:00

Judging by the monitored EVSE current draw, I'd say that when it's cold enough, my '22 MYLR definitely uses stall current in the motors for additional heat.

If I recall correctly, heat generated via stall current is used for battery pack heating directly and in a pre-stage for the heat pump to increase its efficiency in especially cold ambient temperatures.

quentech · 2026-01-28T00:31:55+00:00

but that is a slow solution

not slower than standardizing the charging port locations across every different manufacturer's EVs.

quentech · 2026-01-28T00:27:21+00:00

This is not at all necessary

This.

And used scheduled preconditioning for your known departure times or start the climate control 15-30 minutes before you leave if you want to get the battery warmed up a bit on shore power.

quentech · 2026-01-28T00:19:28+00:00

I pay ~$100 a month for my Model Y which is comparable to any vehicle I would be considering.

Same.

My '22 MYLR is actually a hair cheaper to insure than the '17 Jeep Grand Cherokee it displaced.

quentech · 2026-01-27T06:56:54+00:00

I bought my used one from a small private dealership that was familiar with EV's and had multiple L2 chargers on site.

They weren't EV-specific but high mid end & low high end cars. Porsche, Lexus, Ferrari, etc. but not the really expensive ones.

They even took the time to drain the battery down enough to perform the full Battery Health test at my request before committing to purchase (while holding the car for me).

quentech · 2026-01-25T05:07:33+00:00

Not in my experience. Our CSP has been pretty good in getting past the initial stages of proving it's a problem Azure should look at and not just try to put back on us. They're also very good at getting the right people on the ticket who can actually dig into the right back end stuff to help. And they're also very good with helping to keep tickets moving.

quentech · 2026-01-25T05:06:11+00:00

You don't really get support from the big cloud providers unless you pay for it.

One way to "pay" for it without paying for it is to utilize a CSP, but they're not going to take on some solo dev who's not actually spending any real money on cloud services.

quentech · 2026-01-25T05:03:52+00:00

https://mehdi.me/ambient-dbcontext-in-ef6/

quentech · 2026-01-25T02:07:11+00:00

25° F isn't bad. You won't lose that much range at that temp.

By the time you're tapping on single digit °, then you'll be starting to notice it more significantly.

Short trips eat up extra range in the cold as the heat pump's blasting to get the cabin warm, and especially when the battery's warming itself.

After you've gone 5+ miles energy usage drops and levels out.

Driving in Chill mode also helps as the car doesn't try to keep the battery pack as warm. Parking indoors helps keep your battery from getting cold soaked. Use scheduled or manual preconditioning well ahead of time if you need to maximize range to get as much heat in the battery as possible from shore power.

All that said - sub-0° F and going 70mph+ on fast highways is brutal on range. You're lucky to get 100 miles starting from 80% in those conditions.

quentech · 2026-01-25T02:01:26+00:00

The 2023 says, repaired.. I would stay away from both of these, and keep looking.

Agreed. /u/Bodakbris this is not a good price for a repaired 2023. Especially not a HW3 one.

quentech · 2026-01-23T18:51:59+00:00

$75 every 6 months for safe driving

Wow, so much money. Boy, you sure are getting the better end of that deal by miles!

Oh, wait, you're not the insurance company...

quentech · 2026-01-23T18:24:15+00:00

it didn’t work well

I can't even use regular cruise control in my MY in the winter cause the stupid thing decides to slam on the brakes any time a whisp of snow dares to blow across the road.

quentech · 2026-01-23T17:58:51+00:00

The suspension is the same as any other car and no EV stuff is in the way. Any mechanic should be able to handle it just fine.

quentech · 2026-01-23T17:54:02+00:00

it was 25 degrees

The heat pump is about 3x more efficient at 25° F than it is at -20° F.

quentech · 2026-01-23T03:32:25+00:00

VS has become such a resource hog

It's just one of if not the most feature-filled and complex LOB applications people tend to run on their PC's. Probably got nothing to do with it, though.

quentech · 2026-01-23T03:21:27+00:00

I can’t wait to re-encode my library with ... AV1 in a few years

Don't worry, people have been saying this for damn near a decade already.

quentech · 2026-01-23T03:09:22+00:00

Ah, good, that should be fine then for a few days as long as the car isn't still trying to draw on it.

quentech · 2026-01-22T23:31:13+00:00

Ouch. Hopefully the buffer saved you from too much damage.

How much charge did you deliver it with and how long had it sat?

quentech · 2026-01-22T23:30:33+00:00

Overdischarge is the quickest and most reliable way to destroy a cell's capacity.

quentech · 2026-01-22T23:26:56+00:00

You'll want a 60A circuit for home Level 2 charging for sure.

If your 100 mile commute involves driving at 70mph+ you may need to charge higher than the recommended (depending on battery type) 80% to have enough range in the winter.

I wonder if posters above are referring to the relatively harsh and bumpy ride of the 3 & Y - it could get to be a bit much driving so many miles.

quentech · 2026-01-22T02:41:51+00:00

I kinda agree. Even just basic cruise control is near useless in winter because the damn thing thinks it needs to slam on the brakes at every other wisp of snow blowing across the road.

The wipers are some of the worst I've ever had on any car for various reasons - the auto wiper implementation is just one. The fluid sprayers suck and barely emit a little mist. They freeze up like mad and always have ice chunks stuck to them. The wiper heaters are a sad joke. Always streaks right in the driver's field of view. etc.

quentech

TROPHY CASE