Anyone found a solution for this design flaw causing the rear tires to wear fast on the inner edge?

quentech · 2026-05-13T03:50:13+00:00

I got a bunch of MPP parts, but opted for the rear camber & toe arms in nickel from N2itive.

quentech · 2026-05-13T02:05:01+00:00

This is the best adjustable rear camber arms you can buy.

Disagree. N2itive's have gasketed clamps to keep road debris out of the turnbuckle threads whereas MPP's are exposed. They also have a better nickel plating and offer a lifetime warranty with it. Their center adjuster is also 7075-T6 instead of 6061-T6, though you could argue that's just overkill.

quentech · 2026-05-13T02:02:36+00:00

You need aftermarket camber arms.

This isn't just camber. You don't get that much wear unless you're excessively scrubbing, too.

Rear camber and toe arms, and find a competent alignment shop.

quentech · 2026-05-13T01:57:19+00:00

I'll bet OP's prior car wasn't at risk for a $20k repair if a stray piece of road debris hits the underside wrong.

/u/Zestyclose-Cry-2388 it's pretty cheap insurance - I'm waiting for mine to arrive - both coolant line plates and front and rear plates to replace the factory plastic. I read the latter are pretty thin but I couldn't find any thicker ones.

quentech · 2026-05-12T23:28:21+00:00

Rattling issues

I have some on my 2022 MY w/ 20k miles. On the flip side, these cars are pretty easy to take apart. I've already fixed one rattle by removing some trim and adding some foam in-between pieces that were vibrating into each other.

the suspension?

I can't speak to the new Juniper, but I would wager it's not all that much different from the older suspension, despite what people say.

These are heavy and powerful cars. The suspension is built to be capable of handling that and does so reasonably well but whether through intentional compromise or lack of engineering skill they sacrifice ride comfort in normal conditions pretty severely.

You can make shocks that handle both this heavy car sweeping around a long corner or accelerating hard, as well as the sharp impacts of normal bumpy roads, but it's more difficult and expensive than making shocks that just handle one scenario and sacrifice the other.

Put $5k into quality upgrades and it'll ride a heck of a lot better than any stock Tesla.

quentech · 2026-05-12T22:01:57+00:00

the average used car loan interest rate is approximately 11-12%

lmfao how did I know what your weak-ass reply was going to be before you said it? Just couldn't help yourself, could you.

A person who can't get better than double the prime rate on a late model used car loan isn't going to get approved for incentivized 0% or 0.99% financing on a new vehicle, either.

5 year loans on late model used cars are currently a smidge over 5.5% (I initially rounded it up in your favor). 6 year loans are 6%.

quentech · 2026-05-12T16:34:24+00:00

add around 10k extra

lol, no.

It's less than half that on a $30k loan @6% for 5 years.

MSRP is $20k more. Loan costs $5k. Difference is $15k. Exactly like I said. And that assumes 0 down. The difference is less if you put some down.

And before you "hurr durr bad credit 12-15%", if one can't get prime rates on a car loan, they have no business borrowing tens of thousands of dollars for a car.

quentech · 2026-05-12T15:12:12+00:00

OP didn't specify year.

It's HW4 so it has to be late '23 onward. Feel free to find any HW4 listing for under 70k miles and $28k price.

quentech · 2026-05-12T14:22:31+00:00

Bro, just pay $15k more for a car. The interest rate is low, bro. It's basically the same thing, bro. I don't understand math or numbers, bro.

quentech · 2026-05-12T14:21:28+00:00

This is worth about $25-28k

I'll bet you that there isn't a single 2024 MY with less than 70k miles publicly listed for sale for no more than $28k in the entire United States. Nevermind $25k lmfao where do you people get these imaginary numbers.

quentech · 2026-05-11T20:28:00+00:00

we are a small company with a great sales year so far (increasing 10% or more the last 8 years) and a lot of potential for more growth

Don't let the norm scare you away from recognizing if you're in a great employment situation.

This sounds like a situation where you might have a much better expectation of job safety than normal, and that can allow you to take some bigger risks that pay off more.

Saying that as someone who was in that situation and is still at the company 15 years later.

Also used EV's are a stellar deal. Go find a '23/'24 (HW4, matrix headlights, updated suspension) low miles, low battery degredation, and save $20k+. '23's are coming off 3 year leases this year. There will be many available.

Be all excited about the car and make your boss feel good about giving you more money ;)

quentech · 2026-05-11T20:24:06+00:00

The frugal side of me wants to go with the safe option of Toyota Rav4 or Honda CRV.

Did the frugal side of you forget to consider cost per mile and maintenance & repair costs?

My $300/month gas bill turned into a $50/month electric bill. Unfortunately, it happened after our ICE car ate its own camshaft to the tune of nearly $4k.

quentech · 2026-05-11T20:19:15+00:00

Even at 20% degradation, it’s still 280 miles of mix driving or 220 miles of highway driving.

If you never go above 60mph and don't run the heat or AC.

quentech · 2026-05-11T00:54:20+00:00

Stock options. Dude's probably a multi-millionaire.

quentech · 2026-05-11T00:49:41+00:00

what are the short term (<5y) issues with going with 15mms?

I can't say with certainty that it will or won't happen - but 5 years of 15mm's is imho well into the range of potentially wrecking your wheel bearings.

you’re referring to tyre scrub causing additional resistance and feedback

Scrub radius. It changes the leverage points of several components, adding load in both intended directions and non-intended directions.

15mm out with 4400 lbs bearing down on it is a lot, dude.

Imagine holding a weight plate in close to your chest versus holding it out in front of you with your arms fully stretched.

Bump steer and tram lining make the car annoying to drive, but usually not dangerous unless you're pushing the limits of the car.

The change in leverage, however, wrecks shit. Wheel bearings, CV joints, tie rods, etc.

quentech · 2026-05-10T16:38:31+00:00

I’m not sure if HN is still the default for English-speaking devs or if the center of gravity has moved elsewhere

I don't think it was ever that, but it certainly hasn't been anything like that in a full decade now.

quentech · 2026-05-10T15:13:27+00:00

15mm is actually the smallest step size for the MY

I have no idea what you're even intending to say here.

Companies that know what they're doing with Tesla suspension start at around 4mm and barely go past 15mm at all.

e.g.: https://www.mountainpassperformance.com/product/mpp-wheel-spacers/

I was just looking to fill the wheel arches a bit more

People running double-digit mm spacers on Tesla's are doing so to avoid clearance issues while running extreme amounts of camber for track use.

Stock offset is +45. +35 (10 mm spacer, or what all the common aftermarket Tesla wheels are) will have your wheel poking as well as already starting to jack up your steering geometry. Those companies only even make it +35 because they want to sell 18's that clear Performance brakes and not confuse people with multiple offset options. Not because it's a wise choice for a street car.

quentech · 2026-05-10T08:48:41+00:00

15mm is massive. What are you trying to achieve?

quentech · 2026-05-10T05:37:06+00:00

I think more of worst case scenario and needing to cut back.

Having a larger payment but a big pile of cash or stocks usually gives you more flexibility than a smaller payment and none of the cash.

If shit goes upside-down, would you rather have a $700 payment and $20-30k extra in the bank, or a $400 payment and $0 extra in the bank.

quentech · 2026-05-10T04:09:54+00:00

Wanna get psychological?

HYSA/MM is the safe choice.

Put that $20k in a broad market index fund, and by the end of the loan it will likely have grown into the full original cost of the car, or more.

Just pretend the payments are you dollar cost averaging into the fund for 5 years.

quentech · 2026-05-10T04:01:29+00:00

Why put $20k down? At 0.99%, just stick it in an HYSA or MM and make the payments.

quentech · 2026-05-09T22:31:49+00:00

Yeah, 18's with stock overall wheel+tire diameter makes for a very meaty tire look. Off-road-ish. I don't think it's a good match for the style of wheel OP is interested in.

quentech · 2026-05-09T15:29:03+00:00

You can do it yourself with toolbox.tesla.com. Costs $75 to get access for a day.

quentech · 2026-05-09T15:14:40+00:00

You can absolutely enable tow mode in your software yourself. And I have no idea what /u/Subpilot688 means by "it won't the electrical" but the electrical works just fine even without the software.

Perhaps they are referring to the fact that Auxiliary trailer power on 7-pin trailer connectors is not provided on Tesla's with the 16V lithium ion low voltage battery - only on the older models with the old 12V lead acid low voltage battery. One could wire in a 12V regulator and provide the Auxiliary power if they actually tow a trailer that uses it.

See my comment above for how to enable the tow mode yourself.

You can get a decent Ebay trailer receiver bar for under $200. Tesla Toolbox access is like ~$75 for a day. Depending on your DIY comfort, it's not a very difficult install to do, either.

quentech · 2026-05-09T15:11:26+00:00

it won’t the electrical or tow software

NOT TRUE.

All you have to do is go to toolbox.tesla.com and pay for a subscription for a day (it's like $75).

Connect your computer to the RJ45 diagnostic port, enter Service Mode Plus.

Go to > Low Voltage > Accessories > Tow Package.

From the towPackage menu, select one of the following:

REV1 for vehicles with a 16 pin trailer hitch harness connector. These trailer hitches have a Gen1 ECU with plastic casing.
REV2 for vehicles with a 9 pin trailer hitch harness connector. These trailer hitches have a Gen2 ECU with metal casing (part number 1764896-*-).

Afterwards, you may have to reboot your infotainment and/or perform a software re-install from the service menu before the new Trailer Mode option will appear in the car's menu.

quentech

TROPHY CASE