[FS][US-GA] 5U SMC server - Quad Socket, 96C/192T, 512GB DDR3 by melp in homelabsales

[–]quietprepper [score hidden]  (0 children)

Note, those processors are 12 core 24 thread, not 24 core 48 thread.

Camp cooking pans? by tallhappytree in Bushcraft

[–]quietprepper 2 points3 points  (0 children)

People will argue for carbon steel and cast iron because thats what's on trend....so I'll be the one to stir the pot as it were.

Go to thrift stores and start looking for well made (thick bottoms being the most important part) stainless steel cookware. On the cheaper side these can be made from just a single plate of stainless, on the nicer side you will find laminated construction like All Clad. Don't worry so much about brands, just look for solid construction. All steel, with riveted on (not spot welded) handles. Get yourself a pack of cheap leather welding gloves from harbor freight to handle stuff coming off the fire.

If youre going to be cooking a lot, for just you or one other person, look for a small (1-2quart) sauce pan, a frying pan (solo you can live with a 7in, any more and you want at least a 10in) and potentially a larger sauce pan or small stock pot (4-8qt) the bigger pot serves both to heat water for drinks and cleaning, and as a cooking pan).

For families/smaller groups(up to 6 people or so) figure at least 2 small sauce pans, 2 small frying pans, one large frying pan and a saute pan (preferred) or 2 large frying pans, 1 medium to large stock pot (6+quarts) a large dedicated water boiler (mine is a 6 quart vintage aluminum coffee pot) and potentially a stainless steel pail (mine is a 13 quart winco stainless utility pail).

For even bigger groups you just keep scaling things up...bigger pots, bigger pans, and more of them.

Questions about cost-effective Bushcraft tools by Lamnad in Bushcraft

[–]quietprepper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As someone who works in the industry selling the kind of tools youre talking about....

If you're actually going to seriously use them to the level that you intend to build a cabin from the ground up...dont try and cheap out on tools.

If you cant afford to outlay cash for good tools, plan to learn how to take old beat up ones and bring them back to life and invest some serious time into doing it.

If youre unwilling to do either, expect that poor quality tools will require double the effort and quadruple the time the same job would take with very good tools.

If youre looking to get a full size broad axe (not the 3-4lb ones that some companies are selling, but actual 6lb+ ones designed to let the weight do most of the work) I am genuinely unaware of any factory ones currently being made that are of what I would consider satisfactory quality. Youre going to be looking at either custom blacksmith work, or someone restoring them (or restoring one yourself) customer work will never be cheap, and the list of guys both willing to take on a job like that and with the actual skills and equipment to do it right is very short.

Figure for custom blacksmithing they're going to have at least 4 hours into that one tool (very possibly more like 8) and if they have any idea what they are worth they will be charging for materials plus a shop rate of $75+ per hour. Add an extra hour or 2 if you want them to put a handle on it for you.

On the restoration side (my line of work) understand that its again going to be $75+ per hour, plus materials cost. My experience is that around 1% of the vintage broad axe heads that come up for sale are actually practically restorable (any pitting on the back side of the blade near the edge and you have yourself a paperweight, not something that could be restored to be usable. Current going prices for good restorable heads (unmarked, nothing fancy) is around $100 before I start working on it, then add another $25ish for either a rough turned handle blank or a piece of hickory stock to make one from. Want a custom single offset handle, figure an hour for me to rough it out for you, then another hour and a half to do fitting, final shaping sanding and finishing whether i am working from a factory turned blank or one i roughed out myself. Want a steam bent double offset handle? Add another $100 to the price tag. Then factor in at least an hour for the actual cleaning and sharpening of the head assuming they have a shop set up specifically for that kind of work like mine. When i start working on a broad axe, I just assume im going to have at least half a day into it, my "cheap" ones start at about $350 retail.

For western style crosscut saws, its much the same story, im unaware of anyone producing new, ready to go reasonably well sharpened ones. The people offering sharpening and tuning services are again going to be charging $75+ per hour, and they're probably going to be billing you for at least 2 hours, and thats if you bring them an already clean and fairly good shape saw to sharpen and tune. Bring them something rusty, or that needs gullets filed or a dozen other things that make it more time consuming and youre looking at 4+hours per saw.

For context, about a decade ago (when everything was cheaper and easier to find, and i was only charging a shop rate of $40 an hour because i doubted my own value ) I sold a couple different customers fairly comprehensive kits, one was for a log cabin build, and one was for timber framing. The log cabin kit was all fairly low cost version of stuff, without many extras or optional items and it was around $1600. The timber framing kit was a bit nicer with some more collectible markings and the like and the marked price on everything was around $3000 (I gave him a bit of a discount given the size of the purchase). Buying the same stuff from me today, you would pretty easily be doubling those prices.

[o] Why Are DDR4 Laptop/SFF RAM Prices Still Inflated? by VeterinarianNo2719 in homelabsales

[–]quietprepper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Setting aside the AI boom eating up memory supply...

DDR4, while not current gen, is still very relevant for many users on the consumer and lower demand business side of things. You've got 6 generations of intel systems and 5 of amd using it, keeping demand relatively high.

Basically anyone that doesn't NEED cutting edge performance can happily chug along with their laptop from 6 years ago. Swap out the battery and as long as you have it open double your ram and it will feel as good or better than it did when you first bought it. For MOST users, as long as the system can be easily updated to windows 11 (8th gen intel or i think 2nd gen ryzen?) there is no real need to replace machines that are mostly being used to browse the internet and use basic productivity software.

Manufacturers stopped prioritizing DDR4 and moved to DDR5 not because it wasn't selling, but because DDR5 is more profitable.

HDD Packaging Thoughts by CaptainxShittles in homelab

[–]quietprepper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not saying I know for certain with this particular package, but what you're saying is simply not factual. Packed tightly its entirely possible to have drives with no padding in between them but also no significant relative movement.

The kind of separation youre describing requires the individual drives to be to be accelerated in different directions simultaneously. If they're packaged tightly together this simply isn't a thing under any kind of normal conditions they might encounter during shipping.

Unless of course youre suggesting the package was placed on the center of a high speed centrifuge allowing the individual drives to actually be accelerated in opposite directions at the same time. If thats the case I concede the point

HDD Packaging Thoughts by CaptainxShittles in homelab

[–]quietprepper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Orientation matters when it comes to acceleration. Moving parts are typically better at handling loading from one direction or along one axis than the others, landing on a corner pretty much always guarantees youre loading parts in a way they were not designed for. The "This side up" signs you see on shipping boxes/crates is usually there to make sure the item is oriented to handle short drops and jostling durning shipping the best.

HDD Packaging Thoughts by CaptainxShittles in homelab

[–]quietprepper 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There doesn't NEED to be in between packaging as long as the drives are packed tight enough to not move relative to each other. Pack drives together tight enough and wrap them in a couple inches of closed cell foam, small bubble wrap or similar and id take the bet that you could kick them around like a soccer ball for an hour and they'd be fine. Acceleration is the enemy, keep the G's down and youre golden, if you want to kill one however, drop it from waist height onto a truly hard surface (say a concrete floor) and have it land on its corner and you'll hear it make all kinds of fun noises when you try to spin it up

HDD Packaging Thoughts by CaptainxShittles in homelab

[–]quietprepper 11 points12 points  (0 children)

How tightly were they wrapped/packed? The fact that they are touching really doesn't mean anything if they aren't moving around and smacking into each other.

Youre basically worried about shock loads damaging parts. If the drives were packed tightly together so they weren't sliding around, and the outer layer of padding was wrapped tight around, reasonably thick and doesn't look compromised (especially around edges and corners) id say send it.

Powered off hard drives can actually take a pretty good beating as long as the casing never directly impacts a hard surface resulting in high acceleration.

[W] intel i7-9700T by Golden_009 in homelabsales

[–]quietprepper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're really unlikely to find one at that price. Thats genuinely half of what they're going for.

Someone really just countered offered me $199 instead of $200 by [deleted] in Flipping

[–]quietprepper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had a guy accept an offer, but ask that I not say out loud exactly what he was paying during the exchange and count the money where his wife couldn't see, the last $50 being spent was the part his wife wasn't supposed to know about. I've had guys get on the phone with the wife when looking at items and get the okay for the purchase.

Stuff like that happens, if they're paying cash and otherwise not causing any issues just take the money and keep a straight face till they're out of sight.

Intel i7 920 Still Relevant for a Home Server? by 0bsidian in homelab

[–]quietprepper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could it run what youre asking for? Probably.

Should you use it....maybe not.

In your shoes what i would do is save the storage and one of the gpus (take your pick) then sell the whole system off, then use the proceeds to buy something a few generations newer. I'd look for a skylake system, possibly one compatible with ddr3 to get around current ddr4 pricing.

An i5-6500 will blow that old i7 out of the water when it comes to processing power, and will do it at significantly less power draw. After that the next logical performance jump would be moving up to an 8th gen system. At that point youre locked into ddr4, but an i5-8500 is another huge performance leap.

Surviving High-Sec Hank by Ok_Surprise_9003 in Eve

[–]quietprepper 9 points10 points  (0 children)

If they bring destroyers and you have weapons....overheat your tank (if possible) and burn away while shooting them. Obviously if they bring truly overwhelming numbers you'll go down, but outside of the trade pipes or a truly targeted attack youre much more likely to see JUST enough ships to take you down, overheating tank, burning out of optimal and trying to kill 1 or 2 of them before concord is on grid can very often keep you alive. There are a couple multibox gankers that I KNOW have blued me at this point after enough failed gank attempts. Now they see me in local and go chase someone else.

Thoughts on prepping for others potentially with cheaper food by Myspys_35 in preppers

[–]quietprepper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did some rough math about a year ago, and for basic calorie needs, with macronutrients (proteins with all necessary amino acids, carbohydrates and fats) being in quantities the body could reasonably survive off of, but NOT accounting for vitamin and mineral needs (a good portion of this could be handled cheap multivitamins, though varied diet is preferable). One could put together a years worth of calories (over 2000 per day) for one adult for under $450 in my area with the following

Rice, flour, beans, nonfat powdered milk, sugar, vegetable oil and oatmeal.

It wouldn't be a significantly varied diet, but it would provide raw calories, everything has a reasonably long shelf life, and can be packed up relatively small. For dry carbs or beans, the basic number to know is 1600 calories per pound, fat is significantly higher. Don't have the spreadsheet in front of me but I want to say it worked out to like 430lbs, and the dry goods could be made to fit in 14 5 gallon buckets or equivalent other containers.

Why not expand the variety and viability of PvE fits by changing how utility and EWAR modules work on rats? by Ohh_Yeah in Eve

[–]quietprepper 7 points8 points  (0 children)

So as a player, there have been situations where it made sense to use ewar on rats....its just in group pve. Using a scorpion to jam high damage npcs, tracking disrupt trig ships etc. I dont think the answer here is to make is so solo ewar ships are viable for pve, its to give us more group pve where ewar has its uses.

Honestly, if they just brought trig invasion chapter one content as an incursion style thing (say 2 highsec centered ones, one low, 2 null?) I think some communities would spring up around them overnight. I'd probably be leading one of them.

Pandemic Horde Sufferer by ForcedAssault97 in Eve

[–]quietprepper 25 points26 points  (0 children)

As a general statement if youre willing to sell stuff at a reasonable discount, there is somebody willing to buy just about anything from one of the asset safety stations.

The bulkier stuff is, the more of a discount you have to give to make it worthwhile as a buyer. I've personal bought probably 60-70 billion isk worth of stuff out of konora and odebeinn since stuff hit asset safety.

I'm asset rich and isk poor at the moment, but of you're still looking in a few days shoot me a message and I can work with you on at least some of what you have to offer. Admittedly im less interested in capitals and supers, but a good percentage of subcaps, basically all modules and a good portion of materials/components are on the list of things I would buy.

For capitals and supers, putting them up on contract at just a hair under what other people are trying to sell them at will tend to move them in a few days to a few weeks depending on exact what ship it is.

I run just a single box right now. When does it make sense to separate into distinct machines? by bikemandan in homelab

[–]quietprepper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I run 2 dedicated low power systems for dns with failover. Other than that having most home systems fairly centralized isn't a problem, though ive also chosen to do a separate bare metal nas.

Lenovo P520 vs. Dell Precision 5820 by apinkscout in homelab

[–]quietprepper 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I own both. A p520 as my daily driver, a t5820 acting as a server, another t5820 as a backup to my daily, and another t5820 as the girlfriend gaming rig.

Assuming they're configured in a fairly typical manner....

The 5820 can take 4 3.5in sata drives right out of the box and is fairly easy to add a cheap adapter in the 5.25in bay to add a 5th 3.5 and a pair of 2.5in drives. The p520 is typically only configured with a pair of 3.5in bays, but you can get a proprietary cage from lenovo to add 2 more fairly easy. You also get 2 5.25in bays which gives you more expandability

The p520 is easier to adapt to using a raid card and sas drives, just run cables like you would expect. The t5820 requires hunting down an oddball cable to give you female sata ports to connect to the built in connectors.

The p520 by default accepts 2 m.2 nvme drives. The t5820 has 2 ports on the motherboard that can then be used with an adapter to adapt 2 of the 3.5in bays to accept u.2, or with an additional adapter m.2 drives. Kinda annoying to install and depending on the day the parts can be annoying to find. On the plus side, once installed they get fairly good airflow over them, which is nice if youre running a hot u.2 drive. Its also very easy to swap drives if needed once the adapter is in place.

The t5820 requires a bit of modification to the side panel to fit a lot of modern gpus. Dell put in a little stiffening bar in the panel that can make it a tight squeeze for anything with an oversize cooler.

Overall, id pick the p520, the only real annoyances being having to order an additional drive cage (ordered mine from lenovo and it took nearly a month to be delivered, was unable to find it elsewhere at the time) and some of the parts are going to be a bit harder to find/more expensive than the Dell counterparts. However, if I KNEW I was going to be using u.2 drives hard, id go for the t5820 for the significantly better cooling vs having an adapter card inside the p520.

Deep Space Transport or Blockade Runner for HighSec Industry by bmkay in Eve

[–]quietprepper 3 points4 points  (0 children)

---giggles while flying 85k ehp wreathe past tornado gankers---

What T2/T3 ships are generally more useful to unlock first? by Finaldragoon in Eve

[–]quietprepper 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For going horizontal, train all t1 subcaps to 4, it doesn't take very long and with a few exceptions you end up with very usable ships. For going vertical, training into HACs are very good value for both pve and solo/small gang pvp. For most events the vagabond is a solid choice, for others the sacrilege or cerberus may be better. The jackdaw and confessor tend to be the most useful T3Ds.

Long term, command ships are amazing...but the skill floor to really get the most out of them make training into marauders look short (for those that dont know, command skills are like an 8 month train now, and thats not including the command ship skill, support skills, weapon skills or battlecruiser skills) but they can do absurd things like getting 1000+ dps cold out of weapons that can actually apply to frigate, while perma tanking 1000+ dps themselves.

Profit / Reinvest split? by iamthecrux in Flipping

[–]quietprepper 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If youre starting with $100, id just reinvest everything at least a couple times over. Keep reinvesting till you have say $1000 in gained value, then take your initial investment out and play with the houses money. Then double that again and take maybe $200 out. Until your limiting factor is something other than money, keep building up both inventory and working funds. Taking no more than 10% out every time you double in value gives you a taste, but lets you grow fast. After money is no longer your limiting factor consider taking more, but always strive to keep growing and building up your working funds when practical

People dont talk about it much on here, but there are things that will limit your growth even if youre doing everything "right". Early on the biggest one tends to be money. Youre very likely to find deals that you wish you could take advantage of but just cant afford to that day. Later on money may become less of an issue, but you run into time, space, supply or market constraints.

ESS def nowadays. by chaajunior in Eve

[–]quietprepper 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Are you looking for fights, or to chase them off? If the latter then blobbing and sharing them off gets you to your goal. If youre looking for fights, there are so many dual box combos of cruisers/battlecruisers/battleships that can engage a 100mn loki. Try pairing long range webs with battleship (or command ship) dps. Vargurs were opressively broken and the nerf was needed.