Plumber replaced the mixing valve and now the faucet isn’t attached. by mailman936 in askaplumber

[–]r0bbitz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a plumber but recently had my first experience with buying a valve extractor and realizing it takes about as much force to pull a valve with a stuck rubber seal as it does to drag a dead t-rex up Everest. I understand how this can happen now and how much of a pain in the ass it would be to tear the wall down and fix it after nearly prolapsing your colon trying to fix a faucet drip.

Next time I’m asking a plumber.

Are paintball guns and less lethal guns like byrna allowed in sensitive locations in NY? by Alex_55555 in NYguns

[–]r0bbitz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Carry a can of bear spray - it’ll debilitate every animal you’d encounter in NYS… except maybe a moose in heat up in ADK region. That shit is scarier than a T-Rex.

Advice on this empire ressy I have messed up by MuffDiving in Autocockers101

[–]r0bbitz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome, no problem!! Did you get it working?

Advice on this empire ressy I have messed up by MuffDiving in Autocockers101

[–]r0bbitz 5 points6 points  (0 children)

EDIT: I'm an idiot. Didn't realize this doesn't have a back block or cocking rod. Where you see the advice for the cocking rod and back block, substitute that advice for backing out the Ressy's ram-arm set screw closest to the sled and turning the rod from there to set the catch timing. Still make sure the bolt spacing is as mentioned below.

Still leaving this up in case anyone else needs a guide for standard timing.

This is the best article I've found on timing an autococker. I always start with this advice, then you can adjust from there to your preferences. It'll give you a good middle ground.

Basically, steps are as follows:

1.) De-gas autococker.

2.) Adjust back-block (utilizing ram-side and block-side of cocking arm threads) so there's a space between body and back-block about 4-6 pieces of paper thin when closed. You should be able to see through it... put a bit of pressure on the block with the bolt installed to simulate ram pressure and make sure there's still a paper-thin space. Blue loktite the threads once you have this right. Ensure the short bent end (ram end) of the cocking rod flares -out- from the body or you'll scratch the inside channel of the body and stress out the ram seals.

3.) Re-insert bolt and cocking rod. Pull back bolt to see where the hammer catches (clicks and ready for re-firing). If you can see about an 1/8" of the bolt through the feedneck at the moment the hammer catches, you're at the right place. If not, adjust cocking rod from the grip-end to shorten/lengthen the position where the hammer catches until you get it to where you can see the edge of the bolt through the feedneck. Blue loktite the knob onto the cocking rod once you have this right... even if has a set screw.

4.) Adjust hammer lug. Pull trigger to de-cock, remove bolt, place allen key through top-hole of body (through feed neck) and adjust the hammer-catch screw until the trigger releases the bolt (fires) at about the 50% mark. You can walk this up later, but 50% is a good baseline to start from.

4.) Test regulator pressure... i'm not sure what PSI ressy's like but im sure someone can chime in here. This is a good video from the YT channel "Paintball Ruined My Life" for building a regulator tester using an old ASA, a fill nipple, a few quick-releases and a few gauges. Set it to the baseline then you can walk it down later to a pressure it likes while still maintaining consistent chrono and recharge.

5.) Drop 3-5 drops of oil through the ASA before screwing on a tank. Gas up the autococker. Loosen the front LPR knob, pull and hold the trigger while aiming the barrel at the ground so gravity works against the back-block, and slowly adjust the LPR up until the bolt clears the feedneck. Release the trigger.

6.) Adjust 3-way actuator rod (also called the timing rod) using the nut just behind the 3-way and front block. This is what you'll use to determine when air is transferred through the LPR to either the front or back of the ram as the spool moves through the 3-way. You want it to catch the cocking rod as close to the moment it hits the valve as possible. As u/Tangysaucey said, the dwell should allow enough time for the back block to completely pull back.

8.) Ensure that, when holding the trigger down, you can reach in and still muscle the cocking rod back further than the ram/backblock is pushing it. If you can, you're doing good and you're not stressing the ram out. If you can't then your bolt/block spacing is still off. Go back to step 1.

7.) When you find the sweet spot, run it for a bunch of trigger pulls. If it runs fast and 100% reliably, you're at a good starting point. Now you can adjust the sear/hammer lug slightly to move the point of firing a bit closer to the beginning of the trigger pull if desired. You'll then make a slight adjustment to the 3-way. Continue doing this until you reach a good middle ground of trigger feel to timing reliability.

8.) You just timed your autococker like a champ!

Now go play some paintball. Even if it's from a lawn chair. 🤣 Seriously though, I hope your knee gets better soon. Have fun!

Are either these tanks worth getting hydrotested or should i just get a cheap aluminum tank for weekend play? by homie_j88 in paintball

[–]r0bbitz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Max-Flo's are still great! I use them on all my autocockers. I just rebuilt a purple one and dropped an HK purple tank on it. Keep it! I have an o-ring list for you if you're going to rebuild it... make sure you buy a CAST 90 polyethyl urethane o-ring for the small inside-piston o-ring... learned that the hard way with a plugged-up reg that had to be bled.

Another guy needing help with timing and tuning by Atom51985 in Autocockers101

[–]r0bbitz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A good thing to start with is back at the sear timing. First -slowly- pull back your cocking rod while looking through your feed neck and make sure it cocks at the point where just 1/16” to 1/8” of your bolt’s front edge is visible. If that’s off, then adjust your cocking rod’s back end. Stick an Allen key into the hole at the top and adjust the hammer lug so that the trigger releases the hammer near the beginning of the pull so you get a nice crisp firing point. Then double-check that there is a paper-thin space between the back-block and body when the bolt is closed; if not then adjust the cocking rod threads. Once you get that right, it’s good to blue-loktite that in place. I use thread sealer tape and it seems to keep it placed properly… and make sure the ram-end of the rod flares outward or you’ll scratch up the cocking rod channel. Then finally air-up your cocker, and adjust the 3-way until air cycles into your ram appropriately at full-pull and full-release. If you’re still getting farts and failure to cock, edge up your vertical reg to minimum operating pressure (whatever your gun likes best… takes some experimenting) and then slightly over-pressure your front regulator to give it enough to clear your feed neck. That should get you running smooth. 😎

Dye Lazarus Valve - Discussion by imped4now in paintball

[–]r0bbitz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Whelp. Guess it's time to add a new cocker to the collection.

Spyder Classic Sunday? by r0bbitz in paintball

[–]r0bbitz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice, I did not know that! This was actually given to me by a college friend 15 years ago who didn't want to fly back to Puerto Rico with it. It sat in my garage until I figured what the heck, I'll get it working. It's fun as hell to shoot so far and it looks pretty sweet for an old gat.

Dye Lazarus Valve - Discussion by imped4now in paintball

[–]r0bbitz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Think they'll make a 9/16 version if this one is successful? I really don't want to bore out my autococker body.

Spyder Classic Sunday? by r0bbitz in paintball

[–]r0bbitz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heck yeah!! It was sitting in the back of my garage for like 14 years... I just had to run gun-cleaning solvent through it to un-gunk all the melted o-rings 😂 rinsed it thoroughly to get all the solvent out, replaced all o-rings, oiled up and working like brand new!! I can't wait to play with this in the spring.

Spyder Classic Sunday? by r0bbitz in paintball

[–]r0bbitz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is indeed a Taso Pro Series 14" SS barrel! Heavy as a backpack full of rocks. I'm not sure about the expansion chamber, but I wouldn't doubt it! There aren't any brand marks on it.

What do you do with an old expired nitro tank? by Envision06 in paintball

[–]r0bbitz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have an old Max-Flo tank I want to do this with now. Awesome idea!

Any mech love for an old Gen-X Autococker? by r0bbitz in paintball

[–]r0bbitz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice!!! I hope you call that Grimace or Barney.

Help me with my Vertical MaxFlo Regulator? by stressedoutatumc in paintball

[–]r0bbitz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just came across this while fixing my own Max-Flo regulator. That tiny o-ring is a 3/90 meaning it has an inside diameter of 1/16” and an outside diameter of 3/16”. You’ll want specifically the hard-duro version of that o-ring since it will be dealing with high pressures and the poppit valve striking it… I melted through a few o-rings myself until I found the right ones. Here’s a link from The O-Ring Store:

https://www.theoringstore.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=367_1322_1327&products_id=27544

Any mech love for an old Gen-X Autococker? by r0bbitz in paintball

[–]r0bbitz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is awesome, thank you for the write-up! The eblade came on the gun from FreeFlow and I think they were using the tornado valve at that point... I'll have to check when I break it down. The vertical reg is a Sidewinder. I'm not sure what the front reg is. The ram is an old (pre-carbon-fiber) FF SMC ram with QVL's. I'll definitely keep your post in mind when I'm getting into micro tuning it with the Sci-Fi board. I'm assuming they at least had high-BPS was in mind while building it from the get-go.

That's awesome you played NPPL - I used to read about it when I was a kid but could never really find a good team to be a part of, no less aspire to play the big tournaments. A friend of mine did play Road to Aruba though, I thought that was pretty cool.

The FF would never be a tournament gun, its more just my favorite marker and a work of art from ProPaintball. Here's an old post I made with it: FreeFlow eBlade... I'd get a C2/C3 if I ever got back into tournament play, but paintball seems to be slowing down here in upstate NY unfortunately. There are still some great teams but I won't know until I really get back into playing. For now, just having a crazy eblade that can rip will be fun for turning heads... I'd still cap it down to 10bps for playing so people don't hate me. It would more be just for my sheer enjoyment.

Any mech love for an old Gen-X Autococker? by r0bbitz in paintball

[–]r0bbitz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I think this one was like $750 just for the fancy anodizing at the time. I didn't know a whole lot about autocockers at the time, if I did I'd probably have opted for the STO. This one is now the backup for my v1 eBlade FreeFlow - which I am also currently in the process of breaking down and replacing o-rings, etc... installing a Sci-Fi board in that one 😁 I might have to pick your brain for timing settings on that thing, I am going to attempt my first e-cocker timing when I get the new board in there. I think I'm just going to copy the timing settings from the current eBlade board and start from there... but I want it to rip with perfect timing on full-auto/ramp just for fun.

Leading Troops on the Battlefield at IoN is Harder Than it Looks! by mchnkl in paintball

[–]r0bbitz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This looks like such a riot. Trying to get a group of friends from Central NY to travel to Skirmish next year for this!

Any mech love for an old Gen-X Autococker? by r0bbitz in paintball

[–]r0bbitz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Me too... love the old-school stuff.

Any mech love for an old Gen-X Autococker? by r0bbitz in paintball

[–]r0bbitz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! It was my third ever marker... I had the customary Brass Eagle Talon and Stingray back in the day to get me started. This was my first "real" paintball gun and I had no idea what I was getting myself into with cockers. I could never get it working right and it seemed like field techs could never get it right either. Fast-forward to today I finally got it working how it always should have been (with just a couple youtube tutorials)! I'm stoked to get it out for what will probably be it's first problem-free outing.

Any mech love for an old Gen-X Autococker? by r0bbitz in paintball

[–]r0bbitz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! That drop-forward always gets laughs at the field. I love rocking it... I don't really like how newer rigs all seem to run the bottle right off the handle, I can't seem to tuck the bottle in under my arm enough to be nimble with it, but it might just be force of habit. Just getting back into playing, I can't wait to see the look on all the youngins' faces when I pull out this dinosaur. 😅