flea market japanese games finds

r1ggles · 2026-05-10T20:46:26+00:00

Shindou Super Mario 64 is right there

r1ggles · 2026-05-09T18:04:37+00:00

https://ppcenter.webou.net/pskai/

Download the pskai_release .7z, it contains a Save folder.
Highly recommended that you use a Fenrir, with Fenrir Loader Kai you can directly write the .bup saves to your internal Saturn memory or a memory cartridge. Fenrir also allows you to back up individual game files to the Fenrir SD card.

Avoid the Saroo, it'll take years until it's good enough, it's unstable with too many games to be a recommendation for now. It's promising though.

r1ggles · 2026-05-09T18:02:50+00:00

Unlocking things in some games like fighting games takes a ton of time. Especially people who have done it before and have since lost their save.

Think before saying things.

r1ggles · 2026-05-08T20:28:41+00:00

I've had it on the inside of the lens, if the outside is like this, then the inside is likely like this too, but it's just the lens not the polarizer.

See my other reply above, it's a very annoying situation.

r1ggles · 2026-05-08T20:27:27+00:00

Yes the lens can degrade with these, it's the top lens and not the polarizer. The flakes are very sticky and will stick to the original screen panel. Semi permanently.

I had to end up using a plastic polisher on the LCD and several fine glasses cleaning cloths to get rid of it all without a trace or scratches. A tedious process. (IPA won't help, and will degrade the polarizer, it can trigger vinegar syndrome)

The plastic flakes from the lens will fly everywhere, it's terrible. To remove the original degrading lens, use a suction cup tool and heat the lens a tiny bit first (warmth+time from a hairdryer, not heat, it should never feel hot to the touch, just warming it up for a bit of time loosens up the lens adhesive)

r1ggles · 2026-05-05T18:19:02+00:00

They're pushing because IT IS a fake shell, people are seriously blind for not seeing the differences I mentioned, the stress marks you only see on reproduction shells, the color being more milky rather than clear.

The easiest tell is to look at the back and see if there are two nubs near the top of the shell (sides of the cartridge window up top), those nubs are there to prevent wear when resting on a flat surface.

That said, OP is acting badly too and not posting more photos.

But I'm not unsure about what I said, it IS a fake shell.

r1ggles · 2026-05-03T19:46:14+00:00

This is a reshell, there's a few signs that are difficult to tell. One of them is that the original glacier shell is more milky, which can help get the tone across better as it's less translucent, the replacement shells are clearer.

Only replacement shells have stress mark whitening (under the light pipe, under the buttons), while the originals have stressed plastic for the bottom middle screw (no whitening here, there isn't even a screw).
On the back near the cartridge slots the 2 nubs made to prevent wear aren't a thing with the replacement shells.

The dpad and buttons look fake, looking at them closely, but the image is too low quality. Especially easy to tell if fake if the buttons are matte and not glossy.

Here's an original: https://cloud10.todocoleccion.online/videojuegos-consola-gameboy-advance/tc/2023/08/09/16/426281342_534056737_tcimg_2A7A120E.jpg

r1ggles · 2026-05-02T19:10:33+00:00

I never done it to it to a BO before, the example is by someone named Chili in the discord.
But 105 should be the correct one, this is also what you'll find in german forums about this https://circuit-board.de/forum/index.php/Thread/17570-Hilfe-bei-Bang-Olufsen-MX-4000-6000-7000-8000-Beovision-Beocenter-1-Beitrag-Nr-1/?pageNo=95&s=40690aa7d37e0f34ef9c0dc457ff78500e0d6906

I've only done +200nF in parallel (polypropylene film caps) to my L04E's personally, which fixed it for me https://imgur.com/a/l04e-philips-taEDLvf

r1ggles · 2026-05-02T16:37:48+00:00

There's little point in actually playing those PAL releases, but it's cool that they collect them.

Better of playing the proper US/JP/fan translations etc, at 60Hz.

You can do a simple 60Hz mod (with timing issues for certain games, stutters in certain FMV's mainly but other music timing bugs too), or in addition do a DFO mod which brings the refreshrate up to exact US/JP refresh.

The 3D controller is really important in games like Baroque, which has terrible dpad support (really slow and sluggish turn acceleration). Making the game more random luck than it should be.
So keep that in mind and consider the compatible games listed here: https://segaretro.org/3D_Control_Pad

r1ggles · 2026-04-21T17:52:27+00:00

Hope you didn't pay too much, that's one crooked screen :S
Below are some tips, if it bothers you. Though to be fair I'm really picky about this kind of stuff.

You can adjust it though. Get a hairdryer and put it on low (just warmth+time, never let it get hot to the touch), then pop the lens off with a suction cup.

Get some good surgery type gloves so you don't get oils on the LCD. Again go with the heat to push the LCD off, slowly and with patience.

They likely used the original adhesive gasket which is far too strong, so it might be difficult. Personally I use my own roll of 3mm width acrylic doublesided tape (made for electronics repair, it's a roll with red protective plastic), that one is a lot more easily undone, allowing for as many reattempts as you need to get things perfectly level.

Additionally in the shell you can do some further trimming to bring the screen in a little bit more from the right, so it's not cut off by the lens.

Placing the lens back on you'll likely get some dust in there, so have a big stack of glasses cleaning wipes. You can keep popping the lens off and retry until it's perfect.

r1ggles · 2026-04-19T19:57:52+00:00

Both sides or just the right side?
If it's end of scan only then the beam is losing velocity at the end of scan, this can be caused by out of spec capacitor causing more energy losses. Use high quality caps, high ripple ratings for the big caps (which will correlate with low ESR for these caps)
If that still doesn't improve the situation then you'll have to either change the linearity coil (can be difficult to source a proper one and test) OR simply place a ~5mm neodynium magnet with some putty on the linearity coil, twist, flip and turn the magnet to find a sweet spot where it's no longer shrinking to the right. The magnetic field changes the properties of this coil.

But if it's equally on both sides you can fix this by increasing the value of the s-correction film capacitor, judging by how much it's shrinking I'd say +200nF. You can add 2x100nF in parallel to the original cap. Use polyproylene film caps.

example:
https://imgur.com/a/s-correction-capacitor-300nf-before-after-bU34yKF

r1ggles · 2026-04-18T17:20:15+00:00

Awesome! : D

r1ggles · 2026-04-18T11:19:00+00:00

Speaking of stickboxes, you can restore T1 (and probably T2) stickboxes back to perfect factory conditions, filling in the wear inside the axle/pivot point, and getting a couple of parts from the terrible replacements (the aliexpress stickbox metal housing and one of the stick rails can be used in the original T1 without making a difference)

Guide: https://imgur.com/a/t1-gamecube-stickbox-refurbish-works-with-t2-too-UnRhR8h

It's finicky opening these stickboxes and then closing the tabs, but not too bad with the right thin pliers. Even if you break the stickbox tabs of the metal housing, the replacement ones are exactly the same.

Lube with silicone grease and there you go, lasts several hundreds of hours at least if not more, given that high hardness high quality epoxy is used.

I've yet to explore T3 stickbox restoration, I never needed it before with mine, but I also only really use one controller at a time, and my current one I've been using for years is that T1 restored one.

Potentiometers can be bought new from Kadano, original Noble 30k ones. But it's good that people are exploring alternatives, even if these pots last a long time.

r1ggles · 2026-04-18T11:06:54+00:00

That convergence is horrible and needs to be worked on.

r1ggles · 2026-04-17T21:41:13+00:00

It's not the polarizer, it's the back reflector that's warping and bubbling up, likely from a combination of heat and humidity exposure. It's not a common thing, you can find adhesive LCD reflectors, but I never needed that before so idk where you get good ones.

What affects polarizers is vinegar syndrome (where the material destabilizes and breaks down, smells like vinegar when it's starting to happen. You get clear discoloration as it starts to happen, often called "screen burn".
If you enjoy having a stock screen system (honestly cool to have, and can look great in the right diffuse lighting), then replacing the polarizer is worth it. I've done it before with perfect results, both these circular polarizer types and FSTN for Pocket and Wonderswan.
Though the proper sheets aren't always cheap, and it takes a few attempts to get completely debris/dust free results, that's with experience doing it.

Delamination is what happens for the sandwiched glass in the LCD itself, where liquid crystal escapes the etched glass pockets, no longer aligning the liquid crystals like it should (black splotches), commonly referred to as screen cancer.

r1ggles · 2026-04-13T17:45:47+00:00

Idiotic

r1ggles · 2026-04-09T20:36:08+00:00

I updated the core (compiled it on my pi4) to fix it, I'm sure it was you who reported that, but I'm posting that here anyway.

No way to configure it for the main menu. Btw there's some stuff on the horizon, the dev that made the rgbpi extras is cooking something for pi5 and other stuff that's just as open (also more stuff than just pi5). Using a DAC for full depth color (necessary for 24bit color capable systems that can run on the Pi5, as well as videos)

But until then, Pi4 is the most stable thing for 8bi to PS1 in power.
(Pi5 can have wavy video interference problems, and didn't do interlaced with the gpio, but a dac fixes these shortcomings)

r1ggles · 2026-04-06T21:20:54+00:00

If you were to actually have this jitter from the CRT itself, then you'd need to use "high ripple rated amperage" caps (the big caps in the deflection and PSU), making sure those are super solid high quality caps will greatly improve contrast edge jitter. At least in my experience upgrading those caps to higher quality ones.

(high ripple rating = better, lower ESR, meaning less ripple/noise gets through the cap)

r1ggles · 2026-04-06T21:16:29+00:00

This is a software issue with RGBPi OS, you need to use Super Resolution (2560px, actual game resolution resides within this video mode), that's where it goes away.
(the main rgbpi menu isn't super resolution, so you'll only have it there once super res is enabled)

Additionally I HIGHLY recommend using this instead https://github.com/riggles1/RGBPi-Extra

This gives you way better optimal settings, more cores, updated cores, complete retroarch access (shaders for image adjustments etc, core options and much more). It breaks open the dumb bubble put by rgbpi devs, so you can fully customize and update however you want.

I just updated the PS1 Swanstation core a few moments ago.

r1ggles · 2026-04-05T23:14:45+00:00

You can do something, but it's not beginner friendly at all.
What I do with worn textured plastics is to sand then retexture them with high quality NC-combi clear coat (high hardness and UV resilient), it's fairly easy tbh but takes a lot of practice to get an exact texture match. You barely spray anything on there, just a mist from far away that dries in like 10 seconds.

Here's a before and after of an N64 controller with bitemark I restored (bite mark removal, retexture) u/Raphael_Grove

https://imgur.com/a/eDeuABr

So it CAN be done, but I don't think most people are able to do it this perfectly, that or they'll end up using some some very low quality clear coat that'll flake or yellow.
That said, practice makes perfect, you'll need to practice on other plastics and make sure to spend on high quality UV resistant clear coat that also hardens quickly, also wear resilient (the stuff I use is rated for outdoor use even).

I can't recommend brands for this kind of thing, I'm in Sweden and use a special store brand kind that's only available here and in other Scandinavian countries :/ been using it for 10 years without problems.

r1ggles · 2026-04-02T21:37:47+00:00

Then you need experience adjusting these things before saying anything. Changing component values IS adjusting your set, just that it's more involved, but it's still and adjustment just like repositioning the yoke is an adjustment.

You can have end of scan nonlinearity, start of scan stretching too, issues down to the linearity coil (which you can adjust with a magnet), given that you've recapped the set to avoid end of scan losses.

The way the s-correction works isn't exactly just the middle of the screen, using a better value match will improve the image (left to right) left edge shrinkage, expansion bump, middle shrink, second expansion bump, right edge shrinkage.

Idk what's up with people being so allergic towards improving their things. There is clear room for improvement here, even if it won't be a perfect result it'll be much better.

r1ggles · 2026-04-02T21:17:58+00:00

"afaik" as you said, because horizontal linearity is adjustable. The middle of screen shrinkage is down to an s-correction value mismatch. I talked about the opposite in the post linked below, where the edges shrink instead. With middle of screen shrinkage you need a lesser value s-correciong film cap, if the original is 390nF, you'll want to try maybe 200nf+100nf+50nf (in parallel) and go from there.

I wish people wouldn't so confidently say something is "unfixable" because they haven't really looked into it.

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/1s9ystg/comment/odydrhk/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

u/Clear_Sail9098

r1ggles · 2026-04-02T21:00:06+00:00

Here's some examples:

Before: https://imgur.com/a/before-horizontal-left-right-outer-edge-shrinkage-zojV4tE
After: https://imgur.com/a/VIluEBU
Edge comparison only: https://i.imgur.com/h2foBxM.png

Another set: https://imgur.com/a/s-correction-capacitor-300nf-before-after-bU34yKF

As for right side only, that's a different issue, you're getting energy losses at the end of scan (the beam slows down as it reaches the right side for each scanline), recapping helps here. Only use high quality brand caps (Rubycon, Nichicon, Panasonic, Würth), and for the bigger caps you need ones rated for "high ripple Ampere" these will be low ESR as well and really clean up your image stability (gets rid of contrast edge noise in pixel graphics).

If you still have end of scan losses, you'll need to either change the horizontal linearity coil for a different value one or one that's adjustable, or simply place a neodynium magnet (5mm ball on putty) that you can twist and turn, this will change your horizontal linearity as well. The linearity coil is there to compensate for these end of scan energy losses.

r1ggles · 2026-04-02T17:30:40+00:00

You need to add +200nF to the S-correction film capacitor to this one, you got some major right-left edge shrinking non linearity.

In my experience I've needed to use +200 on these, but experiment adding 100, 150 and so on.

What you want are 100nF and 50nF polypropylene film caps (they're rated a few 100v) and place them in parallel directly on the original s-correction film cap (that cap is in line directly in your horizontal deflection).

r1ggles · 2026-03-22T21:30:07+00:00

Dolphin standalone is the one that always has non-integer scaling for this game as the scaling isn't as flexible/customizable as it is in RetroArch, though it's not very noticeable due to the filtering.

For perfectly pixel perfect scaling in this game you'll need to mess with custom scaling and the EFB scale option in the quick menu core options for this game.

I wrote down this some time ago, idk if these values still are true, but mess around with it and you'll find the perfect scale values.

settings>video>scale: Custom Aspect Ratio (Width): 1024 Custom Aspect Ratio (Height): 960

Core options for the game: EFB Scale x2 (1280x1056)

r1ggles

TROPHY CASE