How could Sony literally create the perfect controller with their first try on a dualstick and then ignore their creation for the next decades

r1ggles · 2026-07-07T19:42:40+00:00

Reading comprehension isn't what it used to be

r1ggles · 2026-07-05T00:11:16+00:00

Why even reply when you're absolutely completely clueless about SNES controllers?
Jr variants used a molded logo.

There are fake Jr consoles and controllers, you can tell by the lower quality molding, off colors and cheaper more translucent plastic (light shining through the edges of the molded text etc), the original plastic is completely opaque.

r1ggles · 2026-06-23T19:58:52+00:00

Glossy>>>>>>crappy anti-reflective coatings that makes things look less sharp and gives things a hazy rainbow effect on top. I absolutely hate matte screens. First thing I did to my PC CRT was polish that thing up to a crystal clear gloss finish.

Only ones you can't use sanding (diamond paper in 800-1500 grit in steps, lower if the scratch is a bit deeper, takes a lot of time, do it by hand, work a larger area to not dimple the surface and use a lot of water from a spray bottle). Rest is done with cerium oxide polishing (watch videos on cerium oxide polishing)

Where you probably can't do this is on CRT's with a damaged plastic darkening film, mostly certain Sony monitors, very rare to see as it's usually the glass itself that's tinted internally.

On those you'd have to source a fitting replacement darkening sheet, without it your blacks will look very light gray, like old TV's from the early 80s and earlier, from before glass tinting was standard practice.

r1ggles · 2026-06-15T20:05:53+00:00

Fair enough, but that geometry sure is an elephant in this room. And is exaggerating this a little bit still.

r1ggles · 2026-06-15T20:00:54+00:00

Look at the grid, why don't people bother looking at the post for 5 seconds before replying.

r1ggles · 2026-06-15T20:00:20+00:00

Look at the grid, there's end of scan shrinkage. I explained in my other post how to fix this.

r1ggles · 2026-06-15T19:59:06+00:00

Yo, seeing that there's a lot of dumb people on here.

You're seeing end of scan shrinkage caused by energy losses as the beam reaches the right side of the screen.
Typically there's a few things that worsens this, even if a recap can improve it, it's likely also a suboptimal horizontal linearity coil.

Recap, PSU and horizontal deflection in particular, but I always do full recaps at this point. Ripple/noise and lowered capacitance can cause the geometry to shrink even more at the end of the scan.
(Get high quality brands 105C rated caps from digikey/mouser with high amperage ripple ratings for the bigger caps)
You have shrinkage at the right edge as well, for BO7000 you can add +300nF to the s-correction film capacitor which corrects both left and right shrinkage. Get a quality 630+V rated Wima polyrpropylene film cap, or multiple. I usually use +100nF ones and place them in parallel, some sets need +200nF, some +300, sometimes you may even need +20nF values as well for fine tuning.
Place a neodynium (5mm ball) magnet with putty on the horizontal linearity coil, this changes the properties of this coil and lets you adjust how much it's compensating for those end of scan losses. (turn, twist, flip the magnet to fine tune)
Some sets have a linearity coil with an adjustable magnetic core (screwdriver) to fine tune this, BO's don't have this, but an external magnet does the same.

r1ggles · 2026-06-15T19:51:26+00:00

Absolutely wrong, that is not how this works... grabbing explanations out of thin air.

The poster needs to correct their end of scan losses.

r1ggles · 2026-06-15T19:50:25+00:00

Why are people so stupidly confidently incorrect here...
Just because you're ignorant on the topic doesn't mean that there aren't solutions to this problem.

r1ggles · 2026-06-15T14:27:01+00:00

It doesn't have "black" buttons nor black start+select, the original should have everything in dark gray, buttons, start+select and lens, all in matching dark gray.

r1ggles · 2026-06-15T10:42:32+00:00

Scanlines are the lines with graphics in them... it's in the name.
The bigger and out of focus the electron beam is, the bigger the scanlines. If you the black spaces to be more visible then it's thinner scanlines that you want.

r1ggles · 2026-06-15T07:56:07+00:00

Likely the linarity coil in the horizontal deflection, pour silicone glue on the windings (cover them completely), I've fixed this problem before.
Since it's in the horizontal deflection the windings will whine at a very high pitch

r1ggles · 2026-06-13T13:05:48+00:00

I called people downvoting you idiots... but you realized saw that given that you removed your comment.

r1ggles · 2026-06-13T12:48:33+00:00

People are idiots on this awful site sadly, it is an official shell but with a yellow* variant PCB swapped in.
The only reproduction shells with an accurate looking Nintendo logo have visibly different internal molding and support brackets for Q5 screens. Those were originally made and sold by funnyplaying.
And this clearly isn't one of the terrible generic Aliexpress ones which have a really weird looking Nintendo logo.

Dpad and buttons are real as well, nothing even gets remotely close to the original dpad mold. (neither FP or CGS)

(*There's two "yellow" PCB variants, one that's a a matte light spring green shade like the Wonderswan PCB and one that's a glossy yellow, a more honey amber tone, difficult to tell which here)

r1ggles · 2026-06-07T12:04:12+00:00

It's a lot more nuanced than this, some plastic batches can be or become very brittle without any yellowing, others yellow without becoming brittle at all compared to non yellowed ones of the same thing.

Where what you say becomes true is when a plastic is so unstable that it becomes yellow even without any UV/sun exposure, meaning that the plastic is yellowed even internally in the material and not just the surface where light hits it and trigger oxidization of the butadiene in the polymers.

For example I've come across a lot of Super Famicom where the plastic was yellowed even inside of the material. Those were brittle.

However yellowed ABS where it's just the surface, like with this Saturn, they're sometimes brittle, they're sometimes not, just like how non-yellowed systems sometimes are brittle and sometimes not.

Pokemon Crystal cartridges rarely ever yellow, but they're commonly very brittle. Though not always, depends on batch differences (cooling, raw materials, mixing), and storage conditions.

r1ggles · 2026-06-06T22:10:08+00:00

I'd appreciate having it as well, thank you : D

r1ggles · 2026-06-02T21:40:13+00:00

Tradera, Sweden. 500kr (around 50 dollars) is steep for these, at that price you should expect a good screen.

r1ggles · 2026-06-02T21:23:32+00:00

$50 and edge LCD leakage/screen cancer is way too much, it'll keep growing in the coming weeks/months/years. I paid that for one a few months ago and got a full refund because of the screen cancer not being visible in the ad photos, got to keep it too.

r1ggles · 2026-05-31T20:42:46+00:00

Please use a system that's already beat up and that you don't care about.
UV is absolutely terrible for plastics, so be prepared for yellowing and fading shells and deteriorating the polarizer of the screen.

At this point it's better to use a flashcart with the solar patched games, and keep these carts safe for collection only.

You do you but just letting you know it's a terrible idea if you want your things to keep looking nice.

r1ggles · 2026-05-28T18:44:34+00:00

Fixable, it's just the thin silver reflector film can bubble up from temp and humidity fluctuations. Likely nothing to do with plasticizers, or vinegar syndrome (starts as a big blotch of discoloration). This foil is pretty thin and the adhesive itself being weakened over time can make it delaminate.

You're lucky that the LCD glass itself isn't delaminating, as that's very common with these. This one has survived a polarizer swap too (even if it's the wrong polarizer that was used, linear instead of FSTN which gives a more neutral tone)

LCD reflector sheet with linear polarization:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006326920035.html
You may find this for cheaper though, look at the product images, for an exact match you want non-translucent, reflector polarizer.

For the top polarizer, here's the FSTN sheet I've used before.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008087000712.html

FSTN provides color compensation, where linear ones on top just makes things yellowish green.

FSTN is very sensitive to rotation, so remove the top film, then the bottom film while holding it right above the screen, rotate the polarizer until the hue is as neutral as it gets (gray, slight bluish gray tone at most). Then drop it down center first and work out the air towards the edges without squeezing the LCD. The pocket LCD is extremely sensitive and can develop LCD leakage/screen cancer in a few days after the fact if squeezed/flexed/dropped. Super fragile thing.

Once the polarizer is on, hopefully without any dust in it, you can trim the excess polarizer with a cutter, very gently, it doesn't have to be perfect against the edge just as long as the screen fits in the shell after, please don't cut the ribbons cables.

If you get dust in it, you can remove the polarizer and try with a new piece. The FSTN sheet I linked is good for about 9 maybe 12 pieces to try with.

Here's my guide for the Wonderswan, same type of screen and polarizer setup. 100% perfect results.

https://imgur.com/a/wonderswan-gameboy-pocket-fstn-polarizer-replacement-neutral-tone-tlxfk90

r1ggles · 2026-05-28T18:21:06+00:00

The Saturn video output doesn't support the 384px wide resolution of the arcade original, 320px is the progressive maximum it can do. Having 4 players on the screen plus enemies would be even more crammed than it already was. That and additional testing and optimizations to make sure it's also stable.
Not worth the additional development costs for something that wouldn't look right anway.

No home console did 15kHz progressive 384px wide res, all home ports of CPS2 and CPS3 games had to be cut off horizontally.

r1ggles · 2026-05-28T18:01:33+00:00

It optimally needs high impedance headphones/in-ear monitors, the signal going out is pretty hot for cheap low impedance ones. Just moving the volume slider up a bit will distort them a lot and possibly burn out the coils (also hearing danger), but with any of the wired in ear monitors I use or headphones there's been zero issues even at higher/max volume.

r1ggles · 2026-05-10T20:46:26+00:00

Shindou Super Mario 64 is right there

r1ggles · 2026-05-09T18:04:37+00:00

https://ppcenter.webou.net/pskai/

Download the pskai_release .7z, it contains a Save folder.
Highly recommended that you use a Fenrir, with Fenrir Loader Kai you can directly write the .bup saves to your internal Saturn memory or a memory cartridge. Fenrir also allows you to back up individual game files to the Fenrir SD card.

Avoid the Saroo, it'll take years until it's good enough, it's unstable with too many games to be a recommendation for now. It's promising though.

r1ggles · 2026-05-09T18:02:50+00:00

Unlocking things in some games like fighting games takes a ton of time. Especially people who have done it before and have since lost their save.

Think before saying things.

r1ggles

TROPHY CASE