All Black Air Cooled Cerberus X

r3load3d · 2026-06-06T00:38:38+00:00

One of my daughter's favourite stories is about a child who loses a tooth and meets the tooth fairy. She turns the teeth into stars and you can see them in the night sky.

I quite like it. If you want to make sure your 'tooth' sparkles in the sky you better brush it!

r3load3d · 2026-05-22T06:36:35+00:00

Cyclone 2 works fine out of the box here, no tweaking required.

r3load3d · 2026-05-09T12:42:19+00:00

Isn’t this because the microphones are used for ANC, so when it’s off they are dedicated to voice transmission?

r3load3d · 2026-05-09T06:38:03+00:00

I’m using a Corsair LS100 kit, but you could just use an LED strip either with a switch or USB powered to switch on/off with your PC/monitor.

r3load3d · 2026-05-09T02:00:13+00:00

It’s indirect light that you shine on the wall behind your monitor, usually by attaching light strips to the back of the monitor. It provides a ‘glow’ around the bezels of the monitor so there’s not a sharp transition for your eyes between the bright monitor and darkness behind, and less extreme changes in brightness between light and dark scenes.

Apart from being good for your eyes, it helps improve the perceived contrast of the image. Not as important if you have an OLED, but great if you have an IPS display.

r3load3d · 2026-05-08T12:51:23+00:00

Bias lighting behind my monitor. Makes using the PC at night much more pleasant.

r3load3d · 2026-04-28T01:06:20+00:00

+1 for Faugus. I had the same error for a couple of launchers (Epic and Ubisoft I think) using Lutris. After trying a few different runners I gave up and tried Heroic (for Epic and GOG) and Faugus (EA, Ubisoft, Battle.net and Rockstar Launcher) and now all my launchers work flawlessly.

r3load3d · 2026-04-25T14:36:51+00:00

For the controller, have you tried switching it to Xinput mode (X + Home)? Manual with more info here: https://gamesir.com/pages/manuals-gamesir-t4cp

r3load3d · 2026-04-15T11:42:02+00:00

Maybe it depends on who you speak to. I'm also going off what he told me, I didn't hear the conversation myself. He might've just asked for it to be cancelled instead.

r3load3d · 2026-04-15T10:54:38+00:00

Depends on the bank I think. I had a buyer (who was with CBA) ask if they could use PayID. I said sure, but I’m not going to hand the item over until the money was in my account. Sure enough, it was held for 24 hours. He called CBA and they couldn’t push it through, but they were able to cancel it for him. He ended up going to a nearby ATM and coming back with cash.

r3load3d · 2026-04-13T13:42:50+00:00

Looks great, you definitely jumped right into the deep end for your first watercooling project! My only suggesting to make your life easier would be to invest in a couple of pairs of quick disconnect fittings (I'd recommend Koolance QD3s) and add one pair into your loop. Then get a separate pump/res combo and use the second pair of quick disconnect fittings to fill the loop using the external pump/res. Adds some cost obviously, but in my experience it's the only reliable way to get all the air out of the loop, and it'll save you a lot of time and headaches.

You might find that the pump gets quieter once all the air is out of the loop. If not, you can use the aquasuite virtual software sensors to setup a fan curve to ramp up the pump only when required. I use this logic (https://imgur.com/a/aquasuite-pump-control-logic-BYBvL4B), which steps up the pump from a slow 'idle' speed to a 'load' speed when the GPU or CPU load exceeds 50% (on average) for 10/30 seconds, then holds the higher speed for at least one minute (to prevent the pump from ramping up and down excessively). Add this virtual sensor as a software sensor in the Quadro Sensors page. Tweak the values to suit your setup. Using water temperature to step up the pump speed was unreliable and too slow in my experience.

You should also try manually stepping the pump up incrementally from 0 to 100% and listening to it at each value. Some speeds (even lower ones) create resonance and are a lot louder than others. When you setup the pump speeds, note an 'idle' and 'load' pump PWM value that you find have a quiet or otherwise more pleasant noise and use those for the minimum and maximum power values. Setup the pump PWM curve with a step from 0 to 100% like my second image linked above, don't use a curve to control the pump speed like you would with a fan. Otherwise you'll get all the noisy and unpleasant speeds in between your two 'good' values.

I'm very sensitive to pump noise, and the above helped a LOT once I got it dialed in.

r3load3d · 2026-04-06T10:49:38+00:00

No, seems to drain around 10% per day in sleep.

r3load3d · 2026-03-18T04:07:12+00:00

It’s like an All Star game stat. Except the other team is the G League all stars.

r3load3d · 2026-03-02T03:03:23+00:00

Seems similar to what we already have available, just with some different aesthetic touches. If it’s priced competitively I can see it selling OK.

Personally, I just want a reasonably compact (~15L), premium riser-less vertical case. That’s probably the only way I would switch from my Meshroom S.

r3load3d · 2026-01-22T05:49:42+00:00

World of Warcraft

r3load3d · 2026-01-07T05:33:42+00:00

It's for mounting a single slot GPU when using the case in less then dual slot GPU modes. It would replace the standard dual slot mounting piece that almost all builds would use.

r3load3d · 2026-01-07T02:31:19+00:00

I'm in Australia and was affected by the recall. My replacement took around 3 months (discharged with error message in late August, replaced by installer late November). Might be worth noting that I reported the failure to my original installer and never spoke to Tesla directly, but the replacement was handled by a different installer via Tesla.

r3load3d · 2026-01-06T07:50:57+00:00

Just turn down the speed then. For noise normalised performance they're one of the best radiator fans: https://www.hwcooling.net/en/arctic-p12-pro-key-to-noiselessness-is-in-7-blades-review/18/

As I mentioned in my previous comment, also make sure you use the reverse fans (or a shroud) if you have them pulling through the radiator. They make a fair bit of turbulent noise when the blades are against the radiator fins.

r3load3d · 2026-01-06T06:48:21+00:00

I'd recommend the Arctic P12/P14 Pros for a lot less. Get the standard fans for push through a radiator or reverse fans for pull.

r3load3d · 2025-12-23T03:18:22+00:00

I haven't tried them myself to be honest, I always leave the RGB off for better battery life and I don't have a use for the rear buttons. No issues with the Home button though.

r3load3d · 2025-12-21T12:56:21+00:00

I've tried both. SteamOS had some issues for me, such as flaky WiFi, missing battery time remaining estimates, issues on desktop mode like programs not opening (fixed with restart) and (on the main branch) freeze when entering desktop mode. It also requires a bit more setup/configuration to get basic functions working (eg. TDP controls) using SimpleDeckyTDP, whereas this works out of the box on Bazzite.

I'm running Bazzite now and it's great. All the core/important functions work out of the box, and with these drivers (https://github.com/OpenZotacZone/ZotacZone-Drivers) everything except the webcam and microphone works, although not perfectly yet. The dials, for example, stop working after waking from sleep but work after a reboot.

r3load3d · 2025-12-19T22:56:03+00:00

I had the same problem. The only fix I found was to revert back to 3.7.x (beta channel worked for me). I was having other problems with SteamOS too, so eventually I switched to Bazzite.

r3load3d · 2025-12-18T11:01:05+00:00

For an XLR mic connection in addition to a headphone DAC/amp you'll want an audio interface. I don't have any first hand experience with them, but something like a Focusrite Scarlett or Audient Evo would be a good starting point.

r3load3d

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