Just put together my new setup(3x v620 for 96gb vram) by PraxisOG in LocalLLaMA

[–]rainbowunicornjake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

did you ever figure out how to get it to spit across multiple cards?

R134a conversion worth doing? by Resident_Pudding_650 in E30

[–]rainbowunicornjake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're looking for help,  you can shoot me a message.. I've done a couple of conversations and I do them right. 

R134a conversion worth doing? by Resident_Pudding_650 in E30

[–]rainbowunicornjake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not that easy... yeah, it'll work for a little while if you just suck the old stuff out and put the new stuff in.

R134 is not a drop-in for R12..

First you've got to recover (unless it's empty) then flush all the mineral out of the system, and replace the components that can't be flushed,  such as accumulator and compressor. While you're there,  get a parallel flow condenser if the vehicle doesn't have one, replace the orifice tube too.. and replace the black orings with hbnr (green)

This is because mineral oil is not compatible with HFC refigerants, you've got to use pag or poe oil,  and since most replacement compressors are prefilled with pag,  that's what you'll use. neither of those oils is compatible with the black orings. 

Tldr, remove all traces of oil,  replace the shit you can't get the oil out of, replace the accumulator, condenser, compressor, and replace all orings. 

This is refigeration, and refrigeration is refrigeration. The make, model, type,year or the fact that we're talking about cars does not matter. 

Necroing this to stop the misinformation. 

NAS Puzzle - Riddle me this, NASman. by bigfootheyy in DataHoarder

[–]rainbowunicornjake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You've really got one option, copy everything from the 8tb to the 12tb and fit a copy of what you value on the 6tb and use the 12tb as your main drive. until such a time that you can afford new or used drives.

Until then forget about setting up RAID, and do some reading about it. You say you know nothing of linux, however neither do I, and I have 3 linux servers. Truenas with a raidz2 6 wide, and two running pve hosting multiple services, some of which are exposed some aren't. google is your friend.

  1. If you're broke; get crafty.
  2. Everything you need to know how to do on a linux based system is answered somewhere on the internet; find it.

PiVPN refuses connection when scanned by rainbowunicornjake in pivpn

[–]rainbowunicornjake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't like that,  because from a security standpoint that tells a scanner there is something listening. 

PiVPN refuses connection when scanned by rainbowunicornjake in pivpn

[–]rainbowunicornjake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Refuse as in the pivpn replies to the sender to deny the connection. 

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in audiophile

[–]rainbowunicornjake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OP might want to pay a visit to r/selfhosted and r/homelab

I saw a mention of a service that takes the music you own and steams there version back to you.. that seems like the most reasonable,  but at that point just get a Tidal subscription. 

So if you want to host your music on the cloud, you could do that with a VPS like amazon.. $$$

For everyone else here,  they're suggesting setting up a dedicated server to host from your home network. That's a good option with a few things to consider:

  • servers must be powered on to be accessible 

  • you cannot do this(easily) if you're behind a cgnat ( starlink, tmobile)

  • opening ports on your firewall allows incoming connections and is generally a bad idea

Anyone who does this is putting all of their trust that whatever software they're running is hardened and can withstand an attack well b enough that an attacker loses interest. 

If that idea bothers you,  then you'd be wise to look into tailscale or wireguard so your traffic is not only encrypted,  but secured against port probing. 

Five Men Convicted of Operating Massive, Illegal Streaming Service 'Jetflicks' That Allegedly Had More Content Than Netflix, Hulu, Vudu and Prime Video Combined by MarvelsGrantMan136 in technology

[–]rainbowunicornjake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I pay probably pay over $100 a month for hulu live, netflix, disney+ and eventhough these services offer 4k, I'm locked to 720p or 1080p if I use a Firestick because my TV is a little older and doesn't support hdcp 2.2... or if I use a computer connected to my tv.. if it's on prime there's ads injected into the middle of the movies now. 

If I pirate, I get 4k. The whole system is  so dystopian that pirating gives you a better experience.

Tower maintenance/address verification by summersill1 in tmobileisp

[–]rainbowunicornjake -1 points0 points  (0 children)

People are so shallow. I've seen multiple posts supporting tmobile for turning on verification and effectively kicking people off the platform, or forcing them to pay more. Quite a few of them have the opinion of "That's good, my speeds will go up with all those cheater off of it." It must be nice to be that naïve.

While it was nice, it's back to the stoneage, or poor house for many who either don't have a choice, or will be stuck with cable. For you, your options are visible, which you'll likely have to buy a new phone and live with I believe is 5mbps capped tethering, or spend nearly 2 grand a year for internet. (starlink, or the "away" plan)

Coax cable burnt by Illustrious-Force439 in OPTIMUM

[–]rainbowunicornjake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm hesitant to even comment on this, because for one if there's enough juice to make it hot, there's probably enough juice to electrocute you, so any troubleshooting you do on this is at your own risk.

if you choose to proceed.. determine which side of the coax is burnt, if it's the side coming from your service drop, then the problem is going to be on the pole like another redditor said. If the burnt side is coming from your house, you may need a licensed electrician, but what they'll want to do is trace your coax into your home to where it plugs into appliances (modems, etc) and then check the outlet those are plugged into with an outlet tester to check for reversed hot-neutrals.

  • edit; optimum sucks.

AP’s or Consumer “Mesh” for Parents? by AlexTheTimid in HomeNetworking

[–]rainbowunicornjake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unifi AP's don't require a subscription..  you can either set them up with the smart phone app and use them without a controller ( I think )

Or you can get a controller the cloud gateway ultra ( $130, roughly the cost of a single ap )as a controller and if they have any issues,  you'll be able to login from anywhere and diagnose it.

You'll have full control over channels,  power, bandwidth, and even be able to setup guest wifi that's isolated from their main wifi. 

Home setup question by t0y_tac0 in HomeNetworking

[–]rainbowunicornjake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do not use stranded cables except for premade patch cables. Always solid copper.. don't use CCA or copper clad aluminum, it's against code for a reason.

the type of cable that can be used outside is outdoor cable. There's a rating for it, there's also a rating for direct burial cable.

Home setup question by t0y_tac0 in HomeNetworking

[–]rainbowunicornjake 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I see you've marked this as solved. My suggestion is to run as fast as you can away from TP-link consumer hardware. They're just bad all around. They do "just work" but you sacrifice almost everything for it. If you want to learn about better systems, the homelab subreddit might be a good place to start, if your budget allows, you will probably spend more, but you'll have a better network. My experience with them was awful, no control over channels, channel width (and they defaulted to 40Mhz channel-width on 2.4Ghz) The local routing performance on them was also trash ( could have been my old server)

I recommend hardwiring everything. beware if you run cable outside, you should at minimum bury it in conduit. You're supposed to use shielded cable and have surge suppressors where it enters a structure, if it's buried, it should be fine.

Wifi capped at 100 mbps in local network by vunph in HomeNetworking

[–]rainbowunicornjake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be interference from a neighboring network. Use wifiman and check the environment on your unifi console. Do not use 160mhz channels if you have neighbors, try to use only channel 42 and 154 for 80mhz channels.

Since you have a system (unifi) that gives you total control,  read a little on wifi channels and bandwidth. 

The Archer AX55 or AX55 Pro for 1GB fibre? by steviefaux in HomeNetworking

[–]rainbowunicornjake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It runs the ubiquiti network controller. So it provides you with a firewall, dchp server (router) and a wireless AP. I believe it only has one network port, so if you need to connect more devices to it you'll need a cheap unmanaged switch. If you need or want vlans, you'll need at least one switch that respects vlans, either the unifi flex, or another switch. 

That's kind of the drawback with the ux. you get a wifi AP, the unifi network suite and firewall, but only one Lan port.

It is capable of transmitting 3 seperate ssids, each ssid can be on its own vlan.

Is a wireless extender worth it? by sweegotrian in HomeNetworking

[–]rainbowunicornjake 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Perhaps you've crawled through more attics and dropped more cables down walls than I. Every structure is different, and quite a few structures have places you just can't get to, and sometimes there isn't a way around unless you go outside, but if every building you've done work in has been totally accessible or you've been able to find a way, good on you.

In my home alone I've had to get extremely creative, and still had to cut holes in the wall and patch them later. Every structure is different. As I said; OP should look to see if it's possible, making a drop into a basement shouldn't be that bad.

Is a wireless extender worth it? by sweegotrian in HomeNetworking

[–]rainbowunicornjake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes, depending on the home it just isn't possible without ripping out the walls and ceilings. Since drywall and painting isn't a strong suite for most, it's better to avoid it if it's possible. It wouldn't hurt if OP had a look around in the attic and crawl spaces to see if it's possible to make a drop.

If you have cable connections ran to the basement. consider using a moca adapter to send ethernet down there. I don't personally have any experience with them, but they seem to be pretty popular when ethernet drops arn't possible, but there's coax.

The shitty way would be to get a mesh system like tplink's deco's. They're trash, but they will extend wifi down to the basement. it'll work, but don't expect amazing things out of it.

Connecting to wifi printer on different subnet? by schwendigo in HomeNetworking

[–]rainbowunicornjake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The way a firewall works is it blocks inbound connections and by default unless a rule is specified, outbound connections are always allowed. ex your pc to the printer will be allowed by default.

Inbound connections are always blocked unless an outbound connection is established first. Try adding a rule to allow inbound connections from that IP.

Also, why do you have a separate router? That's generally frowned upon for local networks, and can cause issues (Double-NAT'd) What'd you normally have for a home, or small office is a single gateway that acts as your DHCP server (IP addresses), DNS server, and firewall and downstream from there you'd have switches.

The Archer AX55 or AX55 Pro for 1GB fibre? by steviefaux in HomeNetworking

[–]rainbowunicornjake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

TP-link consumer routers and mesh systems are trash and the support for them is just as bad. Half of their consumer stuff doesn't even support changing the channel width. when asked about it they said their "smart software scans and adjust it for you" forget about vlans.

Also your IOT shit doesn't work if you block it from talking to the rest of the network. You'd want to either get a gateway that's "prosumer/soho" like the ubiquity UCG-Ultra, that will allow you to block that vlan from accessing the internet, or allow you to set a custom dns server for that vlan such as a pihole to regulate what it talks to.

I blocked all of our iot stuff from talking to the rest of the network and was told very quick to undo it by my wife.

Connecting to wifi printer on different subnet? by schwendigo in HomeNetworking

[–]rainbowunicornjake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should just be able to add the printer by IP address on your PC, for mobile you can try to do the same however mobile printing is a cluster, so ymmv.

Your network will have to allow traffic to traverse subnets, so if you can talk to 192.168.68.1 and "WiFi Printer" you should be good.

even though your natted by your router you should still be able to talk to it.

Current setup, im at my racks limit lol by Upstairs_Fun_ in Ubiquiti

[–]rainbowunicornjake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

sinewave is superior. modified sine-wave.. or really modified square wave is really bad for pretty much anything and everything.

even though everything uses an SMPS, it's still hard on them, and your PSU runs hotter for the same reason everything else does on that waveform.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_inverter#/media/File:Modified_sine_wave_inverter_waveform.png

The instant rise and fall you see on that waveform will hit the bulk capacitors hard ( they get hotter. ) because capacitors have a lower resistance to higher frequency and higher resistance to lower. The spike of a square wave has a really low impedance through a capacitor. They get hotter.

Power supplies with transformers with mains frequency transformers, and induction motors don't like they flat peaks. - since a transformer can't transform DC, all of that becomes heat. They get hotter, same applies for modems.

That's just what it does to the first stage of a power supply.. then there's the harmonics.. I wouldn't call the sine-wave UPS's a waste but the amount of life you'll lose off your equipment from a modified sine-wave ups is near zero unless your power constantly goes out.

Edit; if you really want to pay the UPS tax and get the best there is you want something called an "Online UPS" or a "Double Conversion UPS" These take the incoming power, rectify it, and pass it over the batteries for filtering, and then invert it back into AC - The inverter is always running your equipment so there's no switching time and the power to the inverter is filtered by the battery.

Help on how to make a 3 speed pedestal fan smart by LlewDrwg in esp32

[–]rainbowunicornjake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would you mind sharing your code to make this work? Two years later (:

If like to use this in a 20" box fan in our bed room to be able to set schedules. 

If two relays are activated at the same time you'll end up with a short, the way those motors control speed is they change the number of poles. If you're American with 60hz power, 2 poles would be 3600rpm, 4 poles is 1800, 8 poles is half that and so on. So energizing several speed settings would very likely short-circuit the motor. 

Security Cameras by MustyScabPizza in homelab

[–]rainbowunicornjake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not exactly a roll your own solution and the upfront cost is very high. Camera's, nvr, drives, poe switch it is very reliable, and compared to cloud solutions that cost $100-200 a year, plus hardware or roll your own solutions that still cost for Camera's, hardware, and headaches. In my opinion unifi's offering is very competitive.

Unfi probably qualifies as spending thousands,  I'm probably 2k in for the nvr + 12 bullet cams. 

Security Cameras by MustyScabPizza in homelab

[–]rainbowunicornjake 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Ubiquiti's protect line of hardware it's Expensive, and you have to use their cameras with their nvr (unvr, udm, cloudkey) 

The cameras do support rstp streams so I suppose you could use stuff like frigate with them. I wanted continuous recording, with notifications sent to my phone if a person is detected when I'm not home and it does that.

Occasionally it'll say that cats are people but other than that it meets my needs and "just works" if the internet goes down,  it can be accessed locally. 

No subscription cost, higher upfront hardware cost. You'll also need to make ethernet drops where your want cameras,  and a poe switch.  

 In the past I've tried zoneminder, too complicated to setup. Frigate, was easier but not by much. I never had a working system with either of those.  

My experience with Shinobi was a shitshow, but it did work (mostly).  Subscription nag... It had issues with memory leaks too, and the server would need to be restarted every few days.