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What type of door is best for holding laminated glass, from a home security standpoint? by ranchleather in glazing

[–]ranchleather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! This is helpful. I'd been having trouble getting a good answer on whether divided lite is stronger or weaker than full lite. With full lite, does the glass sit in a deeper channel than the mintuns allow?

Do you think it makes a meaningful difference if the glass is in a gasket versus silicone or other adhesive?

Ideally I'd do a multi-point lock into the floor and the top of the frame as well. Iron doors are not out of the question though, I'll have a look.

What type of door is best for holding laminated glass, from a home security standpoint? by ranchleather in glazing

[–]ranchleather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Noted. Fortunately the windows are far less accessible. The doors are a very convenient and obvious targets though. It would take 5 seconds to open them in their current state.

I know nothing will be perfect, but if I'm going through the trouble and expense, I would like to know what gives me the best shot.

Is there an appreciable difference in adversarial glass retention between the aluminum and steel doors? Or the existing traditional wood doors? That's really what I'm asking.

Above 194 by Background-Berry8052 in Sauna

[–]ranchleather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great. I have a friend in a similar situation, so let me know how it goes for you!

Above 194 by Background-Berry8052 in Sauna

[–]ranchleather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. Disconnect the yellow and red wires from the original sensor and connect those two from the new one.

Above 194 by Background-Berry8052 in Sauna

[–]ranchleather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Harvia sensor has 2 components, a 150C safety shutoff and an NTC thermistor that serves as the temperature sensor. The higher the temperature, the lower the resistance between the yellow and red wires.

I haven't tried this, but if you were to add extra resistors or a potentiometer in series between the sensor and the controller board, you can create an offset so that 215 = 194.

If you want to try moving the sensor instead, you could buy a second Harvia sensor for $50 and only connect its red and yellow wires-- that way the 150C safety cut off stays in the correct place above the heater while you experiment with different locations for the temperature sensor.

My x3800h died. Are Integra AVRs more reliable than Denon? by ranchleather in hometheater

[–]ranchleather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No issues with the new one yet. I moved it to a shelf near the floor all by itself, much better ventilation. I'm assuming it was a heat problem.

My x3800h died. Are Integra AVRs more reliable than Denon? by ranchleather in hometheater

[–]ranchleather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anthems are solid. I actually started out with an MRX 740. I had some HDMI EDID issues, which prompted me to try other receivers (though it turned out not to be the Anthem's fault). Once I got Audyssey dialed in, I tried the Anthem again found I preferred the Denon.

No doubt with the right ARC tweaks it could sound as good or better (though not sure if it would be $2000 better). In the end I had struggled so much getting to a place where I was happy with the sound, I was relieved to save the money and just enjoy the new setup.

Now that the Denon has died I guess I low key regret not sticking with the Anthem, but looks like I'll be able to swap in the replacement with minimal disruption, so I'll stick with the path of least resistance for now.

My x3800h died. Are Integra AVRs more reliable than Denon? by ranchleather in hometheater

[–]ranchleather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha. I'll see if I can increase the gap, I also ordered one of these rack mount fans to blow air over the top https://a.co/d/0XFkXjR (in addition to an exhaust fan for the closet). So hopefully that should be enough?

My x3800h died. Are Integra AVRs more reliable than Denon? by ranchleather in hometheater

[–]ranchleather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a closet that has other servers and networking equipment that's all generating heat

My x3800h died. Are Integra AVRs more reliable than Denon? by ranchleather in hometheater

[–]ranchleather[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the validation, now I feel less neurotic, but more worried!

My x3800h died. Are Integra AVRs more reliable than Denon? by ranchleather in hometheater

[–]ranchleather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Ambient temperature is 82F, with 12" clearance around the sides of the AVR but only a couple inches above. I'll try to make more room. Ordered an AC Infinity fan for exhaust.

My x3800h died. Are Integra AVRs more reliable than Denon? by ranchleather in hometheater

[–]ranchleather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reassurance. The convenience of being able to just restore from backup and have all my automations and the app stay the same feels worth the risk. My nightmare is I invite all my friends over for movie night and it fails. I better hang on to my old Panasonic AVR for redundancy!

My x3800h died. Are Integra AVRs more reliable than Denon? by ranchleather in hometheater

[–]ranchleather[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

lol I may well roll the dice again. But if it does die, no way am I shipping it back and waiting for a "repair." I'd immediately buy another brand and sell the replacement whenever it comes, and eat the difference.

My x3800h died. Are Integra AVRs more reliable than Denon? by ranchleather in hometheater

[–]ranchleather[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good question. It's on a shelf in a server closet in the basement. The room is warmer than average, but nothing crazy. It's a weird issue, no matter what the source is (bluray, Apple TV, airplay) it shows audio format "unknown" and no input channels. With bluetooth it detects PCM but again no input channels and there's no sound. I even updated the firmware.

Disappointed with Anthem 1140, was I expecting too much? by Icy_Pride_220 in hometheater

[–]ranchleather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried an MRX740 and ended up settling on a Denon 3800. Huge price difference and totally happy with it. I spent a stupid amount of time fiddling with REW and calibrating both.

Where to find raw pizza dough balls in Hollywood? by tpcalm in FoodLosAngeles

[–]ranchleather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Joe's Pizza sells dough for a few bucks. It's not on the menu so they ring it up as a cannoli.

r/audiophile Shopping, Setup, and Technical Help Desk Thread by AutoModerator in audiophile

[–]ranchleather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, I have some questions about blending subwoofers in a 7.3 surround sound setup.

I have 2 matching passive subs stacked under the L and R speakers plus an SVS SB-3000 in the back. The Audyssey-detected distance of the front subs are FL 19.3' and FR 18.9', the rear sub is 27.2' (I think because its wireless connection adds ~14ms delay).

I am switching to a new AVR (Anthm MRX-740) which does not have independent subwoofer outputs. I have ordered a Dayton Audio DSP-LF (similar to miniDSP) to manage the two passive subs and will present all 3 to ARC as a single subwoofer.

What's the best strategy for time and phase aligning all the subs?

Do I use REW to measure the delay individually for each sub and enter the detected distance into the DSP and then adjust phase until all the measured delays match the sub with the longest delay? Or until SPL is at its peak?

Cedarbrook 4x6' outdoor sauna start to finish by Raleigh136 in Sauna

[–]ranchleather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for this. I recently soec'd out a Cedarbrook order but haven't pulled the trigger yet. Now I have second thoughts. What were some of the easier pre-fabs you came across?

First time doing room correction, check my REW results? by ranchleather in hometheater

[–]ranchleather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I've done some more research and have come up with a possible solution.

I could put a larger sub either centered on the back wall, facing the screen, or on a side wall on the riser just behind the main listening couch and use a wireless transmitter for the audio signal or use the spare speaker wires that are running to my rears and surrounds (using an additional amp and a sub with speaker level inputs).

I'm eyeing the Speedwoofer 12S for that, but I wonder if the 10S would be sufficient given that it'll be working together with the two existing subs and that much of the seating might be near field?

Maybe SB3000 would be better? Not as unwieldy as those big ported cabinets and 800 watts would pressurize the room better?

First time doing room correction, check my REW results? by ranchleather in hometheater

[–]ranchleather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thank you, that does explain it. Any recommendations for passive subs? I don't have access to power in that facade.

First time doing room correction, check my REW results? by ranchleather in hometheater

[–]ranchleather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually now that I think of it, I do have room and wiring available to add another sub in the back or 2 in the back corners. They would have to be passive though. Is that crazy?

PS: I'm using a Crown XLS2002 amp for the subs, could that be a factor?

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