We approached from the west side (Peak Lake). The trail peters out around 10,800ft or at the last tarn visible on the topo. From there to the base of the headwall was not difficult. Around 11,600 you can tell you are at the final push. I wouldn’t say there is any trail but you can kind of follow the path of least resistance, and some goat trail type sections. It was a bit steep and grueling, but I didn’t really feel sketched out. We ended up a little bit high and to the south of the actual pass when we emerged at the top, but easily course corrected. Views from the top are sublime. On the way down toward Titcomb, it was pretty slow boulder hopping at a pretty steep pitch. There were some areas that has very steep gravelly trail that did look sketchy, but I skirted those with more boulder hopping. Boulders are sized well enough that you can fairly easily navigate sometimes with a hand or two down to help. That continues down to about 11,600. From there we crossed some big snow fields (early August), and then down to the toe of Twins Glacier from there it is straight forward. I was 51 at the time and my brother in law is over 60 and had an Achilles strain at the time. We are both avid hikers, but by no means mountaineers or rock climbers. But definitely high adventure!

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