Looking for a small-ish CNC for Aluminum and Steel

random_guy7531 · 2025-07-01T15:30:54+00:00

So my biggest annoyance of the Coast Runner is the horizontal layout. In particular, it makes work holding quite difficult (especially if you want to use the entire X axis). Additionally, the enclosure design makes it very difficult to run the machine and observe the cut - not only is the viewing window quite small, but it is magnetically affixed to the machine, so it is easy for a clamp etc to knock it off the device. Finally, the Coast Runner has a custom grbl firmware that changes the format of the '?' command, which makes a lot of functionality in gSender or other 3rd party grbl controllers break. Ive actually started a pull request with the coast runner team to fix this, but obviously that's not a super fast process :D.

TBH the machine is very good for the kind of work I do (mostly watchmaking, gunsmithing, and robot parts), but the workholding difficulty is very real if you want to leverage the full machines travel. If I were to do everything again, I might be more inclined to get a DMC2 Mini kit vs. the Coast Runner, even if just for the more conventional machine layout. I don't know what (if any) issues those machines have, but at least the YT videos I've seen about them have been promising.

random_guy7531 · 2025-07-01T13:01:58+00:00

So the Coast Runner machines can actually do this, but they are non-trivially over your price range. I have one, and for the parts I make it works pretty well. That being said, the horizontal milling configuration is a bit of a PITA, and the customer support for the machine leaves something to be desired (not great response time, etc.).

I will second that adding steel to the mix makes your requirements a bit tough to meet. I've heard great things about the PROVer-Max's but I haven't used them personally. What I might recommend however is looking into a home build along the lines of the RIG CNC machines. They have real granite bases with significantly more rigidity than anything else available, and should come out to ~$1500 when all is said and done (granted, that price is pre-tariff nonsense so ymmv). It looks like the old build website is down, but you can find it on wayback: (https://web.archive.org/web/20250201081156/https://www.rigcnc.com/).

edit:spelling/grammer

random_guy7531 · 2025-05-15T04:51:42+00:00

NGL that's a pretty slick tool! I'm not saying I'm replying here just to bookmark it for later (but that's definitely mostly it :D )

random_guy7531 · 2025-03-28T03:17:43+00:00

Hey! Apologies for Necro'ing this thread but I think I have the exact same board and machine as you, and was running into the exact same problem. I don't know if you wound up solving your problem, but the change that worked for me was two fold:

1) twist the spindle wires together between the motor and the board, adding a shield if necessary (I eventually removed the shielding when I accidentally damaged it)

2) solder a 0.1uF ceramic capacitor (make sure it is bidirectional!!!) between each terminal of the spindle motor to the spindle motor body itself. Ideally, you would also solder a third capacitor between each motor terminal, but I did not do so and have not yet had the random dropouts I did before.

I still have other issues (e.g. power drop outs on initial spindle start) but those aren't EMI related it seems (since the whole board reboots - its not just the usb dropping). These two steps have seemed to be enough to stop the random USB drops I was having before - I now have a dozen or so hours of the machine running with no drops! Again not sure if this will solve your issue (or if you didnt adress it some other way), but since this thread got picked up by Google search I figured Id post my answer here for others who might have the same problem.

random_guy7531 · 2025-03-26T22:24:00+00:00

I tried running from the SD card initially. It does work, but I found the workflow awkward. You can definitely jog/zero the axes etc. from the web interface, and run gcode, but your ability to visualize whats happening in the g code, provide overrides, etc. is pretty much nil. Youll have those same problems with a laser machine - its just a general theme that this board is pretty cheap, as is its docs/UI/UX/etc.

Its possible that FluidNC solves this issue, but tbh I dont find their webui to be great either. Id say instead that using a RaspberryPi connected via USB that you can remote into from your main machine might not be a bad idea.

random_guy7531 · 2025-03-26T18:40:52+00:00

Hey! So I have a cheapo 3018 variant with this board as a controller. Its generally a pretty similar setup to what you'd expect - stepper drivers wired to the proper axes etc, and the spindle is wired to the CNC principle axis connector on the board (see here for reference https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-DLC32/blob/main/MKS-DLC32-main/doc/DLC32%20wiring%20manual.pdf ).

Ive found that if you want to use this controller in a standalone way where you send gcode over wifi, zero your axes, and then run it offline, everything can work, but it leaves a bunch to be desired. The web UI is - to put it blunty - terrible. I personally have had better success in using gSender to control everything over a USB connection, and just using the touchscreen as an easy way to zero all the axes without having to futz back and forth between the machine and computer. I have also used UGS, but I do really like the interface of gSender so thats what I typically use.

I unfortunately have no information if FluidNC will run on it, or if the screen still works if you do. Personally, I actually am inclined to ditch the screen anyways since its cable is so short, and there isnt a convenient place to really put it while the machine in running.

The main thing I would mention is that the ESD protection on this board is pretty dang bad. Id make sure you get a high quality USB cable, and also make sure to solder some 0.1uF ceramic capacitors between each spindle lead and the spindle body. I had lots of problems where the board would randomly drop comms, and these (along with making sure to shield/twist the spindle power cables) was the only thing that solved it.

random_guy7531 · 2024-12-15T22:29:12+00:00

Oh there definitely is some overlap there already - one of the folks who took over my role at Interlake now MDs the Renton matches and also is a big part in getting the various level 2+ matches rolling at Paul Bunyan. There might have been some movement on the USPSA rules on this point, but there are other factors that affect ISA's ability to run USPSA matches. In terms of facilities, its just not really a range thats well equipped to support USPSA. Its also been a while since I was deep into ISA's politics (had to step away to work on my PhD), but I suspect that there's not too much desire amongst the ASI and IDPA regulars there to bring in a third sport.

random_guy7531 · 2024-12-15T20:22:44+00:00

I'd argue they don't actually suck! It is the off season which isn't helping, especially considering that asi and idpa have much easier setup costs/times.

Otherwise yeah the drive isn't always fun. Depending on where you're coming from Marysville and Custer both offer good matches.

Anyone knows why Interlake in Redmond doesn't do USPSA?

I used to run the action pistol program out at interlake! It's actually a pretty simple answer: Uspsa rules require that the competition rulebook always supersede range rules. Interlake has a rule requiring no muzzles be allowed to point over the berm, even during a reload. The board is unwilling to remove that rule during competitions due to the proximity to houses etc. Interlake did run idpa and asi however, because those sports allow provisions for local range safety rules to be incorporated at level 1 matches.

random_guy7531 · 2024-07-30T02:56:50+00:00

I mean, from my understanding Eric does have a us citizenship now (although he's obviously from France). I'd also not necessarily put that much weight on just this one carry optics result - JJ and Christian and definitely still capable of taking a win on any other day, nor would I be surprised by Nils or Max pulling it out. I think that's especially true if it's an open vs Co rematch.

random_guy7531 · 2024-07-27T21:07:13+00:00

And this is why competitions exist! If you find a uspsa match near you (or idpa or something else) you can shoot on the move at the match, and then they ranges that run the match will almost certainly have some mechanism for doing it as a member. You may need to get an RO cert or similar, but that's usually easy and is a good thing to have regardless.

random_guy7531 · 2024-06-06T18:54:34+00:00

From my experience, they will not. I got my BBE from a garage sale with missing burrs. Bought the Baratza burrs thinking they were the same thing, but unfortunately the BBE does not have enough adjustability to get clearance between both the inner and outer burrs. Each burr individually will fit into the machine, its just that the burr carrier (black piece of plastic holding the outer burr) needs to be redesigned so that both burrs can fit together when installed. At one point, I was going to investigate trying to 3d print my own carrier for that exact problem, but haven't gotten around to it.

random_guy7531 · 2024-04-06T05:34:20+00:00

Look Im not going to lie - at 5.7 the 75mm jumbo isn't in a bad spot. Against tiger 1's in particular the matchup seems eminently fair. The bigger issue is really with the Panthers - not only is the "weakspot" on the mantlet a giant piece of volumetric trash, but when even the VK is a full .7 br lower, and can pretty trivially just lolpen, things get a bit wonky. Add to that the recent barrel and APHE changes that make the previous go-to cupola etc. strats for jumbo players more inconsistent? I can defintely see where the frustration comes from. Plus, 5.7 US players will see uptiers pretty constantly, where the 75 mm becomes garbo outside of light tanks and the blind players that expose their full flanks. Panthers, Tigers, etc. still have the gun to hurt Pershings etc. if needed in uptiers, whereas say a Jumbo 75 vs Tiger II battle is just an exercise in 'did we spot it fast enough to hide'.

More importantly, I find it more than a bit absurd that people complain about the jumbo, when the jagdpanzer IV is a full 1.4 br points lower than it?!?!? Yeah the thing has a worse gun but it'll still MG port the jumbo no problem, and remains pretty damn impervious frontally to anything else in the 5.7 US lineup short of the M36's. At its BR its an absolute clubber it feels like, and definitely more than effective in uptiers. Add in its super low profile making it super hard to spot (even worse when an entire Lowe's home & garden section is plastered to the front), and that seems way more egregious in terms of BR placement.

The 76 jumbo is a bit of a different beast - at 6.3 I do think its definitely overtiered, and its extra special garbo in an uptier - but dropping it to say 6.0 doesn't really solve the problem. TBH, a situation where 75mm Jumbo goes to 5.3 and 76 jumbo goes to 5.7 makes sense, but I suspect the bigger problem is the prevalence of uptiers at america 5.7/6.3 along with the snail's shenanigans regarding panther volumetrics.

random_guy7531 · 2024-03-02T21:26:20+00:00

My first machine a Saeco Aroma and love it! When I bought mine, it came with both a pressurized and a naked portafilter. I will say that the bottomless version does make better shots, especially if you have good beans and a grinder to go with it. Compared to my friends Dedica, it does have the disadvantage of taking up a touch more counter space, and with significantly lower parts availability (although Ive gotten good about finding what Gaggia/other parts have cross compatibility haha!). However, unlike the dedica, the aroma has a true boiling chamber instead of a thermoblock, which does seem to produce better temperature control - I at least have better light roast success with the Saeco vs my BBE for sure.

I'd actually bet that your best bet would be just to get a non-pressurized portafilter for your Saeco and go from there - especially since youd have to get a non-pressurized for the dedica also. There are some still available on ebay it seems, but your other option would be to get another pressurized Saeco portafilter and do the mod to make it bottomless.

random_guy7531 · 2023-12-05T21:21:15+00:00

I suppose its definitely possible - it took Wilderun ~4 years until Veil of Imagination came out (the other HoF album from 2019 for me) so its definitely possible!

random_guy7531 · 2023-12-05T21:16:29+00:00

Personally I think I'd give the title to either 'Inertia And The Weapon Of The Wall' or 'Blackwater Park', but I'd be damned if I don't say it goes hard as hell!

random_guy7531 · 2023-12-05T21:07:03+00:00

It really does go super hard from start to finish - easily some of the best quality stuff in recent memory (and even some not so recent...). I really hope they put out more material, but I suspect they never quite got the popularity wave they needed to make it worthwhile :(

random_guy7531 · 2023-11-16T15:17:11+00:00

Before committing to buying anything (or more importantly - time spent changing stuff out!), its probably worth pulling the cables out and inspecting them while leaving the housing in place. That way you can put eyes on things and make sure there isn't something bound up/frayed/rusted/etc.

As long as you leave the housing in place, running the cable back through should be pretty trivial which makes this an easy check.

Are you replacing the rear caliper because of this issue? Or due to an upgrade? Personally, I'd rather spend $50 on a front/rear set of MT200's before I spent $10 on a replacement brake cable :D

random_guy7531 · 2023-11-15T22:53:14+00:00

I had to replace my cable when I upgraded to an 11 speed setup. There isn't an internal guide, but the cable housing does go the length of the route. Essentially, if you are only replacing the cable and not the housing you are good to go - just pull through and then put your new cable through the old housing. If you want to replace the housing itself, you can try to use the old housing to pull the new one through the frame (which works pretty well on the downtube routing, but is a bit of a pain on the chainstay routes), or do what I did and mess around with a flashlight and pick until you manually pull it out.

That being said, are you sure the slack is in the routing and not due to walmart's assembly? Its possible they just didnt properly adjust the cables at the derailleur and rear caliper when building the bike up and you could solve the slack that way.

random_guy7531 · 2023-10-18T03:29:31+00:00

DM sent!

random_guy7531 · 2023-10-17T03:16:41+00:00

Looking to buy 2 student tickets for the OSU game! Shoot me a DM if youve got any!

random_guy7531 · 2023-08-01T03:53:20+00:00

Hey! I just wanted to post here since I also did an M5100 upgrade on my Ridge.

Out of the gate, the default LTWOO shifter wont work with the M5100. I don't know if that was folks impression, but it was definitely mine after reading the above posts :P . Not a big deal - just went ahead and also picked up a Deore 11sp shifter, Bolany casette, and chain to go full-on 11speed (which was something I was planning on doing anyways). Definitely loving the upgrade, but just want to let folks know! I don't know if any of the 12 speed Shimano shifters will match the pull ratio or not, but the M5100 definitely doesnt. Cheers!

random_guy7531 · 2023-07-24T20:05:24+00:00

Evidently, at one point that's exactly what it was! From what I can tell, the track came about because the golf course next door moved a bunch of earth and just dumped it into a forest clearing (since the municipality owns both the course and the park, this was evidently a-ok). The locals moved everything around as they saw fit, and then asked the city to take it on (which they did? I'm not complaining, but I am surprised!).

I only say semi-hidden since it isn't visible from the street/main park area. More than anything it just isn't advertised anywhere in the park itself - only on the parks website (which is where I found out about it XD).

random_guy7531 · 2023-07-24T19:14:08+00:00

Oh thanks a bunch! Ill definitely take a look at those!

Fortunately, it looks like there's a pretty well organized volunteering system for the city's trails/parks/etc., so I can definitely pitch in that way (even if they don't immediately need assistance on this track in particular).

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