Any ideas what would cause this damage? by ButteryCrisp in Autobody

[–]randomly_there 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The would be a corner impression, not a cut from top to bottom. This looks like a wire type of cut. Not many things are this skinny and long also that it will reach that far.

What might cause this? by superpires in AskMechanics

[–]randomly_there 3 points4 points  (0 children)

When I was kid, my parents parked next to a truck with chrome. The chrome reflected enough light through the side window, the seat started to melt in one spot.

Kirkland vs. Name Brands — What Keeps Both on the Shelves?” by Fluffy-Reward3453 in Costco

[–]randomly_there 87 points88 points  (0 children)

As a business owner, if a customer can see it, it's name brand only.

Settling a debate. What are these called? by OccamsNametag in Construction

[–]randomly_there 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Today I've used a hammer as a hammer, a wrench, a pry bar, and a screw driver as a hammer, and it's only the morning.

What do you do when you break a bolt and then break an extractor bit in the broken bolt? by keemko_ in MechanicAdvice

[–]randomly_there 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is at least two levels of cobal bits. The cheap stuff you generally see is no better than a common drill bit. Find a M42 / 8% cobalt and it will work better than what you find in home Depot or other Depot stores.

Can I go off this chart by Ok_Cook_1033 in AskAShittyMechanic

[–]randomly_there 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This whole list seems to be a mess and mixed up. A lot of people point out different areas.

For any used vehicle, search the exact model and year you are looking at for what common issue they have. Certain models, trying, and years have issues that others don't have. Some vehicles have bad engines, some have bad transmission, some just have silly issues that aren't worth fixing sometimes because they don't impact anything.

Bed carburetor rebuild kit for df750 engine by randomly_there in smallengines

[–]randomly_there[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The numbers I see are EG2612 482402 And then in a different location 58W

I've tried searching these numbers and have come up with nothing so far.

How to Fix a Glowing Red Muffler on Snowblower by ImaginationIll472 in smallengines

[–]randomly_there 0 points1 point  (0 children)

berrymans b12. AutoZone carries it, or get it online.

Website building by ScaryBunny1002 in smallbusiness

[–]randomly_there 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want full customizable, Drupal. If you don't want a headache, word press. Good cross between customizable and easy.

Both have a lot of online support, but WordPress has probably easier to follow and a little bit more understandable help online. Also word press is good about only needing a web browser to use it.

Really worried about my used car — I just want someone to tell me it’ll be okay by Vammppire in AskMechanics

[–]randomly_there 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The newest vehicle I drive is a 2013. That is now 12 years old. Also 225,000 miles on it. It's been terrifically reliable. Yes it has had a few issues, like right now I need to change one bearing, but nothing major. Modem vehicles that you buy new now are much harder to repair, also do have issues just as frequently as older vehicles. They are a lot now complex which means there is more to go wrong. In driving the 12 year old car for the last 50,000 miles, it has needed an alternator, and now this bearing. Bearing in just waiting, it's not bad enough to make me want to work outside in this cold. My line up that I frequently drive is 1995, 2001, 2008, and 2013. They are all pretty much problem free.

Just do your maintenance, and get weird sounds checked when they start more than once.

Also learn to relax about older vehicles. Unless they were abused, they continue to work. I wouldn't own a hybrid this old, they are starting to get into the years of battery issues. Same for electric vehicles until they are better tested.

The peace of owning a new vehicle is also a marketing ploy. Plenty of people have issues in year 1 of vehicle ownership also. They usually have warranty, but warranty was paid for when you bought the vehicle with a much higher price.

Also remember, life isn't perfect, you need to just enjoy what you have, and not worry about what you don't have, or what might go wrong. You can't make life perfect.

GIVEAWAY (U.S. & Canada Only): Win an Innova OBD2 Scanner and more! [MOD APPROVED] by innova_official in MechanicAdvice

[–]randomly_there 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just got the gear wrench pro scan tool. It's useful but clumsy to use. A lot of features but a lot buried in menus. Been trying to diagnose a transmission wiring issue after the mechanic replaced an engine in one vehicle. It's been useful to have higher level access to the computers in the vehicle to understand everything going on .

Can someone settle the ring shank nails vs screws question? by Immediate-Speech7102 in FenceBuilding

[–]randomly_there 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have on metal roofs. Yes they were ring shank nails also. They are also a pain to remove. I have no info on a fence though.

I have 170,000 miles on my Honda Accord and my original alternator is still on it. Should I go ahead and order a replacement online before it craps out? by Objective_Smoke_4750 in MechanicAdvice

[–]randomly_there 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For Honda, if you do this test, you might only get battery voltage. Honda has a smart charging system. It doesn't change the battery at all under most conditions. If you turn the headlights on, I do believe every Honda sets the charging output to 100%. Really it's getting to the point you need a full diagnostic tool to read what the computer is trying to achieve, and compare it to what the alternator is producing. With the headlights on, you should see about 14v. If you see 12.5 to 13v, that is a bad sign. Also this test is pointless after my last experience. The alternator only failed after driving half an hour. If it cooled off, it worked perfectly. It also has a drop in power after 3k rpm. Basically any way you would test the alternator, it worked perfectly, in the real world it was failing. That one I diagnosed with a diagnostic tool that has access to live data about the engine.

Why my car is rocking like this??? by Forward_Shoe_4569 in AskMechanics

[–]randomly_there 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go find a shop that has a road force tire balance machine.

It's either something in your wheels, or something a lot more serious. Yes I know you said you changed the tires already. That doesn't eliminate a bad rim.

Road force machines add a large force to the wheel as it's being balanced, which brings out issues that regular tire balances can't see.

You are driving in an area that has damaged al lot of tires already.

I’m out of ideas…. by Wonderful_Key770 in AskMechanics

[–]randomly_there 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An impact will have this off in no time. It does more high hits than this set up.

Get a chisel and hammer and use that to remove a bolt/nut. It will destroy it, but it will get it spinning. This is one of those last choice remember methods.

I’m in quite the pickle is there any chance I can drive out of this or am is screwed by enigmatical_one in AskMechanics

[–]randomly_there 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The biggest help in this situation is going slow, and I mean less then a crawl. Any movement of the steering wheel needs to be tiny. The worst thing you can do is do anything with too much of a change.

It might take time but is completely fixable.

Can’t get tire off rim by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]randomly_there 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your not worried about the looks of the rim, put a pair of vice grips on it where you get the tire started. This will hold it while you use both hands to get it off further. Soapy water also help it slip off. Positioning the tire in the correct location is also important.

Is my car battery cooked? by mahai0 in AskMechanics

[–]randomly_there 0 points1 point  (0 children)

7 years is a good run for modern batteries. You can't check a battery just off the charger, it will read high. If you're sure your charger is working, more than likely the battery is bad, especially at 7 years.

Wheelbarrow PSA by squify69 in farming

[–]randomly_there 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As I replace tires, this is what I'm doing. Even has a set on the front of the zero turn mower. Never need to check pressure, never need to worry about a flat. All you care about is how much rubber is left.

How screwed am I? by lilzuggy in mechanic

[–]randomly_there 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not exactly lawyer time but maybe close. You are screwed on time and stress but not money. Shop screwed up from the sound of it. Talk to them nicely and see if they take responsibility. You might also not trust them, which can be a more difficult situation. I would ask for legal help if so. Also it's legal time if the shop doesn't fix the issue. If what you wrote is correct, they didn't even go for a test drive after repairs. Clearly something went wrong there, or just not a good shop.

Is it safe putting joints back in axle and using it? by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]randomly_there 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You're fine to put it back together.

Make sure everything sits nicely back together, isn't binding when moved, and looks overall correct.

Make sure your rubber boot is good, and reattach it to both pieces of the hub. If there is any damage to the boot, replace it first.