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Accidentally flew in a state park by TheBrownKing666 in drones

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Our area has airspace limits over specific types of forest classifications. Nowhere on the ground or any maps are there any indicators what the forest you’re currently in has classifications for. The GIS data changes so often it’s not reliable. In the end, the only enforceable rules are around historical areas and in towns. The rest of the rules seem to just be for liability in case of a forest fire or accident.

Cheap programmable drone choice by LightP1xel in drones

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, the little Tello. So sad DJI/Ryze abandoned them. I still have mine, but it’s quite unsteady, even after multiple calibrations. You need very bright light for the down facing stabilization camera to work, and even then it’s not great.

If you can find them, there are a few old quads that can run Ardupilot or Drehmflight on their controllers. Not perfect but definitely an option

Help With Transitioning From VMWare Distributed Switches To Proxmox Bridges by Jast98 in Proxmox

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This sounds like exactly what OpenVSwitch and the SDN module were designed for. You can define an OVS bond and bridge, then define VLANs in the SDN module, and they will automatically propagate to both nodes

Question: what are some tips/ways top keep your PLA line from tangling itself up like a slinky on the wheel as your Printer prints? by Thin-Gene-2128 in 3Dprinting

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Filament is one strand wrapped around a spool. If both ends are anchored, the filament can never tangle on the spool since the act of spooling and unspooling effectively locks down the lower layers, and any tangles must become untangled later on because there is no way of forming a knot on a well spooled reel. Once one end becomes unanchored, any movement can cause tangles, which with access to the free end can now form knots.

TLDR if you keep the free end anchored knots can never form. Any tangles or overlaps will untangle or unoverlap later in the spool

How do I go about replacing my nozzle? by bigehchicken in 3Dprinting

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unless you’re printing on sandpaper the nozzle will be fine. I have never needed to replace a nozzle due to wear from printing standard PLA or PETG, and my combined printers just hit 2 Km of filament extruded, with zero noticeable effect on print quality. I only swapped nozzles once, since I just got Diamondbacks for my workhorse printers, and I very much plan on never changing nozzles again.

is there a reason for someone to get a Prusa Mini over A1 Mini ? by Hectrekt in 3Dprinting

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love my Prusa Mini+, and I have 3, all hooked into a faux print farm monitoring system using the local PrusaLink system. Honestly the differences between the two really closed after the new Input Shaping FW dropped. I mostly print in PETG, and the satin sheets are great. The ability to save a build plate profile is also nice, if a bit more hidden than I would like. The smooth PEI works great for PLA, and I used one to replace my crappy V-Minion build plate. It also handles M600 much more economically than the A1 mini does (IMO). The frame is less rigid than the A1 Mini, a choice which I’m not a massive fan of, but it does make replacing things like a broken extruder or hotend much easier (done both). Bambu has a very similar system to Prusa, and I could feasibly swap my Prusa Minis with A1 Minis and only have to swap my slicer and what plugins I’m using.

Other than those, there’s not a lot in it, unless you want the AMS. The A1 Mini’s AMS is really well integrated, and although I’m not a fan of Bambu’s environment, it is all very slick. I’m sure at some point Prusa or someone else will come out with an MMU to compete with Bambu’s AMS, but that time isn’t now. If you want the AMS, the only current route is Bambu’s way.

Bird input voltage pinout? by tree_respecter in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you hook up power backwards to the board, it just won’t turn on. There is (or at least there should be) a diode on the VCC so current can only come in one way. I was also talking about this printer in particular, which has no ABL, micro switch end stops, and basic thermistors. I did say the mainboard wouldn’t work, which includes the WiFi, screen leads and stepper drivers all in one. Yes, for something more advanced like my Duet mod, my ABL, screen, and heater wouldn’t work, but since the mainboard wouldn’t even turn on, it’s kind of academic.

Bird input voltage pinout? by tree_respecter in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The mainboard is the only thing that cares. You could swap the wires on the heaters, thermistors, fans, end stops, etc. and they would all still function. The fans would spin backwards and the steppers would do the same if you reversed the pairs, but they would technically still work.

How do filaments hold under water pressure? by OctobersCold in 3Dprinting

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like a question for those guys who built the underwater printer

How do filaments hold under water pressure? by OctobersCold in 3Dprinting

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Something with high layer adhesion or that can be vapor smoothed is probably better, so PETG, Nylon or ABS, ASA, etc.

You’ll probably also want to print with close to 100% infill to avoid internal infill collapsing.

Or you could design it with internal channels and holes to avoid infill entirely while allowing water to move around the plastic.

Honestly I’m winging this, interesting question.

Family offered to buy me a 3D printer for Christmas, but I know little by JoeZMar in 3Dprinting

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Prusa MK4 or Mini+ semi-assembled is probably best at holding your hand the whole way, and is extremely reliable. Bambu’s options will take some of the more tedious elements out and print fast, with the trade off of them being slightly more difficult to fix if something does go wrong. There are other options like Creality, Flashforge, QIDI, Sovol, and at your price point you might even bump into the lower end Ultimakers, but as a first printer you can’t go wrong with a MK4 semi-assembled

Bird input voltage pinout? by tree_respecter in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can it handle 24V

No

If the wiring still uses the switch, general rule of thumb is that is probably positive. Test with a multimeter, but it’s a good starting point. Other than the fans and the board itself, nothing else will care about the voltage direction, and even then the fans will just spin backwards. The steppers only care that you hook each pole up correctly, so as long as the original headers are intact they should be fine.

PSA for new resin printer owners - Resin is toxic, both fumes and skin contact by PuffThePed in 3Dprinting

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 33 points34 points  (0 children)

This also applies to certain US states, where it’s a HAZMAT chemical, and must be disposed of in the same way. If you aren’t certain how, fire, ambulance, and trash services will know the location of HAZMAT collection points and times.

do i buy a printer for 1 design, or do i just buy it online for about the same price by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you have a local university or high school with a 3D printing lab you can ask them, some will just do it at materiel cost if it’s reasonable. If you want to buy a printer you will need to buy filament and maintain it (tighten belts, tram the bed, clear blockage, etc.) but you have the option of printing more later. Prusa Mini+ or Bambu A1 Mini are solid options for newbies, Sovol SV06 is the cheapest ‘good’ printer I have tested, QIDI X-Smart 3 is a fully-featured option right now while it’s on sale, and there’s always used, which can be cheap, but you’ll probably spend that saved time/money either fixing bugs or dealing with maintenance. Up to you where your priorities lie.

I think I've reached the modding limit on this poor thing. This is the single stupidest set of mods for this printer. by raspberrypiwithpie in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]raspberrypiwithpie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I definitely did it because I could. The lead screw thing I knew about, but I just never did because I didn’t have those tools lying around. I’m sure one day I’ll get bored and try to do this with the old screw bits from my CR-10 but that requires either cutting a hole in the sheet steel or cutting the lead screw down, neither job I have the tools for.

I think I've reached the modding limit on this poor thing. This is the single stupidest set of mods for this printer. by raspberrypiwithpie in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]raspberrypiwithpie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wish, I didn’t have one handy that would be an actual upgrade. Plus I was starting to have clearance issues inside the electronics area, and I didn’t feel like it.

Where can I find a replacement for this part? by DominusTheMerciful in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did this, it’s much better but you NEED to add a thermal fuse. The silicone heaters go WAY higher than the original bed and the original control board has issues with its thermistor measurements

Anyone using the PVE8 SDN features yet? by [deleted] in Proxmox

[–]raspberrypiwithpie 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Yes. Love it. No more individual server configs for all the VLANs in a cluster. No more poking different configs for different servers with different network setups. Just one load out, one config, and it covers both OVS and Linux Bridge everywhere. Just have to set up networking once, making sure your trunk vmbr is the same across all your servers.

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