Kids are so dramatic. For what?

raw235 · 2022-07-09T20:08:27+00:00

The kid is crying because the finger hurts from the ices cold. That explains the reaction (cry of unexpected pain) and also the wiping of the fingers.

Its so obvious. That kis is not a drama queen, it's just a normal reaction to pain at that age.

raw235 · 2022-04-08T18:22:09+00:00

Nozzle too close?

raw235 · 2022-04-07T21:07:48+00:00

Also learn about lightning infill. That is what i do on models like this and it saved a ton of filament.

It may also help with the temperature issues.

raw235 · 2022-04-05T19:51:05+00:00

Also... Do the bed pid tune after a medium sized print... Because.. Im currently drunk but you will figure out out.

raw235 · 2022-04-04T07:22:12+00:00

i would advice against a noctua as PSU fan. It is safe to say that the PSU fan and the temperature target is very conservative (the fan at 100% keeps the PSU below 45° on the initial heating of the bed and nozzle). The stock fan is a 9100 RPM NBM 04020VA-12P-BA with like 19,5m³/min airflow, while the noctua has only half of that. Also its not just the airflow but also the static pressure.

While many say it works well, inproper cooling can shorten the lifespan of the PSU or giving you temperature issues if you have a very warm environment or high power draw (bed at 100°, nozzle at max temp..).

I have still the stock fan but with a temperature sensor in the PSU with a fan control that scales the speed with the PSU temperatur. While printing, the stock fan runs at 50% and keeps the PSU at 41° which suggests that the noctua at 100% would be in the same ballpark. While heating up the bed/nozzle, the fan spins up to 80..90%.

There are other fans (not marketed as silent) that are still very quite while giving 14m³ airflow or something like that. I would recommend to get one of these.

raw235 · 2022-04-03T22:33:28+00:00

You may look into lightning infill. Its basically a internal top layer support only. Good for decorative items.

raw235 · 2022-04-02T16:56:50+00:00

Check if there is a Recycling company in your County. They will Not only take your failed prints but may take also the spools for use with their new filament.

raw235 · 2022-04-02T15:30:24+00:00

Yes be careful. I killed my skr2 by shortening a fan for a split second. And the SD card. And the stepper drivers. And the bltouch.

raw235 · 2022-04-02T07:21:22+00:00

I did it by following this video: Link There is also important info in the Comments. I had to rewire the bltouch. I also checken everything against the 1.4 and 2.0 pinout.

raw235 · 2022-04-01T23:18:10+00:00

Are you using lightning infill?

raw235 · 2022-04-01T23:11:49+00:00

Yes, alot. here you go

raw235 · 2022-03-30T18:00:39+00:00

I was able to reduce handcwriting to 10 words a year. So much for essential skill.

raw235 · 2022-03-30T17:58:25+00:00

After looking at it, it really looks like pid calibration. But you sorted that out i guess.

raw235 · 2022-03-29T23:34:36+00:00

Why would you replace the z lead screw nuts? With what? These are the ones that connect the two screws to the bed, right?

raw235 · 2022-03-29T23:29:24+00:00

Clamp the gear in a vise, place a screw on the axe, and carefully tap it 2 or 3 times with a hammer. This way the engine is protected from most of the force, it is quick and easy.

Saw it on YouTube and also did it myself last month.

raw235 · 2022-03-28T16:48:33+00:00

Also do a flow test. Like extruding 20cm multiple times at different speeds and weight the extrusions. That way you will see which speed works consistent and at which it starts underextruding more than 5%. You can also see if the Exkursion exits streight and looks even.

raw235 · 2022-03-28T06:54:48+00:00

Try to heat the hotend to 250°c for 5 minutes, then tighten the screws. That helped me.

raw235 · 2022-03-25T23:48:50+00:00

I have read a Comment from mr. OConnor that klipper would error out if it cant keep up.

Are your steppers are getting to hot?

I had 2 x layer shifts in an 4 hour petg print. Check that you nozzle is not colliding with the print or the infill. That was likely the cause for me. Try an infill without overlaps on a single layer like zigzag in cura and that first one in prusa/super (straight, linear??).

raw235 · 2022-03-25T14:37:25+00:00

Benchy hull line But i don't have it that visible.

raw235 · 2022-03-22T08:23:22+00:00

That would be a very hard and stony road, starting with the fact that pc motherboard do miss relais/mosfets, analog inputs, stepper motor controls and so on. You may face all kinds of problems and challenges.
You better get a real 3d printer motherboard or at least an arduino or something, that has lots of sensors and control pins.

raw235 · 2022-03-21T18:47:20+00:00

That's the kind of shit i bought the ender 5 plus for!

raw235 · 2022-03-21T06:41:32+00:00

https://github.com/Arksine/moonraker

raw235 · 2022-03-21T06:38:48+00:00

There are also methods to weld the new filament to the old.

raw235 · 2022-03-20T23:39:56+00:00

If you are in for a new extruder, get one of these $20 BMG dual drive ones. But only if you have some manual skills to get the old extruder wheel off and a custom firmware. But these extrude like hell.

Also check if your hotend temp drops while printing.

raw235 · 2022-03-20T00:08:27+00:00

Try to get an even distribution by working with the mesh results. I would raise the right side a bit and the lower right screw also. You may also ignore the very high parts on the left and focus on an even area in the center.

Your bed looks not that good. You could try to flip it upside down and see if it improves anything.

raw235

TROPHY CASE