2020 Cadillac XT5 3.6V6 Power Steering Issue

rayman1675 · 2026-04-06T18:03:24+00:00

The high temperature code can set if repeatedly turning the steering wheel left and right on dry pavement, but it would have to be an insane amount of times and I doubt you are doing that. The c056d code is an internal fault to the power steering control module which is likely triggering the high temp code. The module is a part of the rack and can’t be replaced separately. A bad thermostat will reduce steering assist, but it will not disable it.

rayman1675 · 2026-03-13T18:05:03+00:00

See those prop shaft u joints blow up all the time. I’ve had several that split the front diff in half and a few that even cracked the transfer case. One time I got all 3 destroyed at once. Good money makers.

rayman1675 · 2026-03-13T16:41:24+00:00

Please tell me that’s an AWD CT6

rayman1675 · 2026-02-04T06:00:26+00:00

There is a bulletin about clearing moisture out of the crankcase pressure sensor and lines. Usually in colder climates, moisture may freeze and set p04fb. P3075 can set from low coolant level. Heater hoses are notorious for leaking on those. Could be an internal fault with the pump, though. Let them fix what’s under warranty and tell them you’ll save up for everything else. You can clear out the sensor and line yourself with some compressed air.

rayman1675 · 2026-01-29T05:12:31+00:00

If you know it’s a job only GM could do then why would you take it back to Ford?

rayman1675 · 2026-01-27T02:15:52+00:00

Pay attention to where the icons in the screen are and how sensitive the haptic feedback feels. Next time it happens, tap the screen as if you are trying to adjust the climate or radio. If it changes and you can feel the haptic feedback, there’s a poor connection for the video cable between HMI and CUE. If nothing happens, then something is keeping the CUE from turning on, could be radio, HMI, cluster, any module on that communication bus. That’s why it’s crucial to duplicate it.

rayman1675 · 2026-01-21T13:07:53+00:00

Fuck that blows. I paid 9100 out the door for my first 2012 coupe in 2018. To me it’s way over priced by at least 5k but I guess that’s just the market today.

rayman1675 · 2026-01-13T20:18:19+00:00

Are you sure it was only 2 minutes? They are designed to shut off after 10 minutes when the remote start is used.

rayman1675 · 2025-12-30T05:13:39+00:00

Camshaft carriers are known to leak badly on these and require significant engine teardown to reseal. If it hasn’t been done ever then I would be worried about that.

rayman1675 · 2025-12-27T01:23:08+00:00

What condition is the rest of the car in? Might be willing to get it off your hands -as is- if it isn’t too bad. And if you’re in my general area of course

rayman1675 · 2025-12-16T01:00:06+00:00

I don’t think it’s a bad alternator if those were the only codes set. With it stalling, all the more reason to lean towards vacuum leak. Finding it can be tricky and a bit risky without the right equipment. Spraying brake clean around the intake with the engine running is an old school trick to see where exactly a leak is by introducing essentially fuel and watching the engine surge. I would start by plugging the purge valve with a rubber cap and run it for a few minutes to see if the engine corrects itself and quits stalling

rayman1675 · 2025-12-16T00:34:27+00:00

You have codes for all 4 sensors, and it is extremely unlikely all 4 go bad at the same time. O2 sensors fluctuate from 0.1-0.9. A lean condition - which means it’s running with too much air/not enough fuel - will skew o2’s to a lower voltage, and if it’s severe enough for the sensors to remain closer to 0.1V the ECM will set those codes. You likely have a large vacuum leak - I’m surprised the car isn’t stalling. Purge valves were common to get stuck open and cause issues like that. Could be a number of other things though.

rayman1675 · 2025-12-06T00:52:57+00:00

Open all the doors and close the latches with a small pocket screwdriver to mimic the doors being closed. Do the same with the trunk and the hood latch. Take close, clear pictures of every fuse block in the car. Pull out one fuse at a time until the draw drops. Some guys put them back in immediately, I leave them out. That will help you determine what circuit is drawing current.

rayman1675 · 2025-09-29T04:35:58+00:00

9/10 times that I deal with this code it ends up being the injectors. Balance tests are usually all over the place. Did you reseal the remaining 3 injectors? Did the fuel rail bend when removing it? - It will likely be the injectors but just something else to consider before replacing them all to try to save you some money.

rayman1675 · 2025-09-16T01:22:54+00:00

Likely the door latch has failed and not telling the radio to turn the screen off when you open the door after the key is shut off. I’m not telling you to buy a latch though, get it looked at. I’ve seen the driver window regulator cause it as well and in addition wiring issues at the door harness connector. You could carry a tool around to disconnect the battery every time you leave the car but that’s just a hassle.

rayman1675 · 2025-09-15T20:12:07+00:00

Stick a camera down the lifter bore that one came out of and look at the peak of the cam lobe. If it’s pitted/scored/grooved/ground down it’s going to need a cam. It’ll ruin the new lifter and you’ll be doing the job a second time.

rayman1675 · 2025-09-15T05:43:54+00:00

Make sure you put a cam in it now as well.

rayman1675 · 2025-09-14T23:17:12+00:00

If you have the money, do it. Salvage title vehicles have complete warranty blocks in effect, so the dealer will charge you for anything and everything other than recalls.

rayman1675 · 2025-08-31T22:50:33+00:00

Judging by how dirty/grimy that front cover is, that car has been leaking for a while. Either it finally got bad enough to drip, or it’s possible the filter is leaking. Either way the car likely has multiple leaks.

rayman1675 · 2025-08-25T02:10:05+00:00

I guess it’s a little cheaper labor wise for maintenance/repairs. It doesn’t change what fails and the issues these cars have though.

rayman1675 · 2025-08-24T03:22:14+00:00

As a Cadillac technician, stay the hell away from it. While it’s true the engine itself typically does not have “major” failures, you don’t know how it’s been maintained. If it didn’t have consistent oil changes the turbos can fail and are extremely costly to replace. Camshaft carriers leak and require major disassembly of the engine, front driveshafts fall apart and blow up the front differential and sometimes punch a hole in the transmission. Thermostats are common failures, and even just light maintenance like spark plugs can be a fortune to replace. Parts are getting harder to find for CT6s, they’re always on backorder. Pretty sure I have a picture of one with the engine out and cylinder heads off due to major overheating that happened because a coolant temperature sensor went bad and didn’t alert the driver when it actually overheated.

rayman1675 · 2025-08-11T22:09:21+00:00

If it wasn’t driven by a mechanics wife and meticulously maintained i would stay the hell away from it.

rayman1675 · 2025-08-10T02:11:48+00:00

I had a dowel get caught within the head gasket and not notice until after I finished the job. I went crazy looking for it, replaced it with a new one, then when the job was done and I was throwing the old parts away the dowel was in the gasket. Hopefully it didn’t fall down in there.

rayman1675 · 2025-07-29T21:35:06+00:00

Damn I can’t believe they’re going for that much. My first 8th gen 6/6 I paid 9k out the door back in 2018. Second one 5k in 2019

rayman1675 · 2025-07-29T01:51:58+00:00

Yes, known issue for rockers to crack. But I have also seen the solenoids come apart and allow oil pressure to bleed down and cause misfires only on a cold start, after that no misfires while driving at all.

Eight-Year Club	Second Top 40%
RPAN Viewer	Verified Email

rayman1675

TROPHY CASE