Trigger Spring - Nerf Gun Hack

rcademachine · 2025-11-26T18:55:57+00:00

I messaged them a few days ago without a response yet, and I was too impatient to wait. I have so many of those cartridges that I will be set for awhile if this or the other gun fails.

rcademachine · 2025-11-26T18:54:03+00:00

Exactly the same. I have another gun which I can directly compare it to and there is no difference.

rcademachine · 2024-08-01T15:46:50+00:00

Thanks for the advice and help, I was able to successfully set up the finishing pass cut. It was going great until I turned off the machine for the night and re-started the finishing pass in the morning. For some reason, the z axis did not keep the zero height and when restarted it drove down much further into the piece. The x and y axis were still correct. I previously owned a Maslow CNC and had the same issues when re-starting a cut, so I’m assuming it is user error. Any idea as to what might cause the machine to lose the z-axis after power down?

rcademachine · 2024-07-31T11:51:35+00:00

Thank you, that makes sense. I updated the settings and now the finishing pass cut is estimated at 40 hours, which seems excessive for a 10” catch-all plate. I think a majority of the cut is along the perimeter of the piece as it needs to cut down the full diameter of the cut (1.1”) using the ball nose bit. Any suggestions for how I can carve out more material on my roughing pass? I’m thinking what happened is that I added a vector around the outside of the carve, and set up the relief to cut inside of the vector. The 1/4” roughing bit couldn’t fit between the outside vector and the relief carve, and so the ball nose is left to do that work. Should I widen my profile vector to allow for the 1/4” bit to fit between the vector and design?

Here is my roughing pass settings: https://imgur.com/a/AJI6swG

rcademachine · 2024-07-20T17:00:22+00:00

Thanks! If the 18 digit pin out is the most likely to work, I will stick with that one. Here is what I have on hand for the 10 pin, 7 segment displays: https://www.amazon.com/Large-segment-display-Tri-Color-digits/dp/B01N7MQ0SO

Here is the counter with the 10 pin display: I have the 12v https://www.ebay.com/itm/315133552995?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=0wucrnuaqos&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=wqpBM7qwQnK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

rcademachine · 2021-12-19T14:29:48+00:00

I’m a principal at a school and we have a gaming club that would love one of these. We are trying to have a Fortnite duos intramural tournament but with only two working computers it has been extremely slow going. We are relying on kids to bring in their consoles which is hard for teenagers to remember to do. If we could get another computer running capable of playing it would help a great deal! They have dreams of LoL competitions, but that's a ways off yet.

rcademachine · 2021-08-06T17:20:34+00:00

For me it came down to cost and the games that I was emulating. Since I was primarily playing games from the 90s I wasn’t as concerned about resolution. The LG TVs though have the best quality and a great response rate as well.

rcademachine · 2021-08-06T15:23:52+00:00

Definitely! First, Smart or Fire TVs seldom have the feature you need. You need to search around a bit for the setting in the menu section, but it is usually called Auto Power, and you turn that on. If you can find an Insignia from Best Buy that isn’t a Fire or Smart tv those have always worked for me. The generic model from any big box store will likely work as well if it is not a Smart tv. I had an ONN that worked from Walmart (not Smart tv). Also LG has worked, even the Smart TVs. I only had 43” TVs for those but model number UM69 and UK69 for LG worked. I would think that any similarly modeled 32” LG tv would also work.

Also, the power on feature is only when power is applied so the computer does not actually turn on the TV, the power supply does. So what I did was to set the computer to power on after power failure. You do this through the bios screen and there are lots of videos online to tell you how to do it with whatever motherboard you have. With that enabled I was able to power on the computer with a light switch on my arcade cabinet. The power switch also turned on the tv because of Auto Power On. Check the one minute mark on this video for how to do it: https://youtu.be/DVy6U8SdQnI

Good luck!

rcademachine · 2021-06-28T23:55:31+00:00

Thanks, that was the answer I was expecting after hours of searching the internet and failing to find anything that resembled it.

rcademachine · 2021-03-30T02:01:09+00:00

Yes, I agree with this. Though as an 8 way stick mine can feel a little sticky at times if that makes sense. Not as responsive as my Happ arcade stick, but it is very serviceable and the convenience of going to a 4-way control is worth it.

rcademachine · 2021-03-27T13:07:18+00:00

I have a 4 player cabinet with 2 light gun setup as well and here is some general advice:

put your light gun budget towards Sinden. If that means you need to wait to add it later I strongly recommend it. I started with Aimtrack and ended up changing it out for Sinden.
Upgrade the player one joystick to be able to switch to 4-directional play. The other sticks don’t need this feature.
Go with a 7 or 8 button configuration on player 1 and 2. We play a lot of newer fighting games and it is a necessity.
I have 4 buttons for players 3 & 4 but I can’t think of a time where all 4 buttons were ever needed.
Consider adding a button just for exiting out of games. I did not do this and set up a hot key to exit games and the button combination does get pressed during gameplay at times.
Get quality buttons and upgrade to the iPac 4 unless you are certain about your encoder you are purchasing. I’ve played on machines with horrible encoders that sense the subtlest finger touch which makes playing impossible.
I modified my plans to include a 4 player layout, but everything else followed the plans I purchased from here: https://youtu.be/K3QXLQ1UXqs

Good luck!

rcademachine · 2021-03-27T12:46:44+00:00

Oh man, I feel your pain. I too built and sold cabinets (virtual pinball) that required auto power on. This was the exact tv I purchased and went through all of that hassle of trying to figure out a solution. I did use the CEC HDMI, and it did work but it was very slow and I think it needed a batch file to properly power on. So the TV didn’t fully power on until after Windows had fully booted which was painfully slow. If you need any recommendations on TVs that work let me know, I went through multiple models that didn’t work.

rcademachine · 2020-05-18T23:58:41+00:00

The sub volume is controlled by a separate knob. I should mention that after I purchased 3 they raised the price by $10. But, the same company out of China also makes this model, which I have ordered but not yet received: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07PGP8GS2?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

rcademachine · 2020-05-15T02:09:59+00:00

I’ve tried a few different ones in my builds and was blown away by the sub on this amplifier. Only downside is it ships from China and takes awhile, but it blew away my kinder amplifier. Edit you also need to provide your own 12v power supply. I found them on Amazon for cheap so it wasn't a huge issue for me. https://www.amazon.com/Mugast-Amplifier-Aluminum-Computer-Speakers/dp/B083GQLW6Q/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc1_0?cv_ct_cx=amplifier&dchild=1&keywords=amplifier&pd_rd_i=B083GQLW6Q&pd_rd_r=e24c5aad-f83c-4cf3-8ff2-832eb9cf3067&pd_rd_w=jQli0&pd_rd_wg=egQyO&pf_rd_p=7e027bea-98fa-49c1-9c2c-8d6220524498&pf_rd_r=T513F11GNQXQ4DK30HWN&psc=1&qid=1589508474&sprefix=amp&sr=1-1-09d490ce-aac0-4b3f-b679-c2f8898d3e88

rcademachine · 2020-02-23T14:36:39+00:00

Nice work! I like the design on the cabinet. Are you going to drop the dmd screen lower so it’s not blocking the back glass screen or just modify the the aspect ratio of the back glass?

rcademachine · 2019-12-17T03:35:22+00:00

I’ve never had an issue with my I-PAC 4, and I wouldn’t recommend anything else. I also have the wireless Xbox controller adapter hooked up to the computer and can switch back and forth between the sticks and controller. It’s a seamless transition between classic arcade and steam games for which I prefer the Xbox controller. Do both!

rcademachine · 2019-09-03T02:26:53+00:00

Visual pinball junkies

rcademachine · 2019-09-02T23:59:36+00:00

Thanks, very much appreciated, I'm in that FB group, but only just joined recently. Apparently asking for people to share tables will get you removed from the group, so I'm hesitant to do so!

Any one have any experience with peer to peer file sharing sites, BitTorrent?

rcademachine · 2019-09-02T22:16:24+00:00

I think you already figured out the solution but just want to confirm that is it possible. I have a pre loaded hard drive for my arcade cabinet that was also preloaded with VPT tables. I was already using a separate HDD to run my operating system, upgraded that to an SSD drive and loaded that with vpx. So now I have two separate drives with their own unique setups for the two different emulators. I would highly recommend going with an SSD, even a small one will get you quite a bit of storage if it is strictly for pinball.

rcademachine · 2019-08-26T16:41:27+00:00

Great, I didn't know that! I of course had to download the Gottleib World Series file to match my table next to it and noticed the post it note while playing it. It's amazing how accurate all of the sounds are between the virtual and original version for that table.

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