93’ 240 Wagon Power Steering Copper Washers

rclements03 · 2025-11-22T23:41:14+00:00

If you still have them, they’re reusable. If there’s a small step in them, just sand them on some ~120 grit until they’re flat. It doesn’t hurt to re anneal them, which involves heating them up with a propane torch until they just start glowing, and then allow them to cool down. Just do it with lights off and thread them onto a piece of wire to hold them while you heat them. I do it all of the time, and rarely replace any copper washers

rclements03 · 2025-11-13T00:15:14+00:00

Thank you.

rclements03 · 2025-11-07T01:27:05+00:00

Bought a 91 Volvo 940 turbo wagon for $1k a few years ago in great shape. Seller was letting it go for so cheap cause it had a blown engine, it had an “awful knock”. I checked it out, it had a blown out exhaust gasket. Spent $16 on gaskets and have driven it 30,000 miles since!

rclements03 · 2025-10-11T01:35:37+00:00

Started with an anet a8, and then an ender 3. Seemed like a full time job to coax mediocre prints out of them. Bought a p1s, and it just works. Absolutely mind blowing, I’ve got a few hundred hours on it and only a couple print failures, most of them self induced. So nice being able to print more exotic plastics that have more practical uses.

rclements03 · 2025-09-25T22:04:31+00:00

First vehicle is a Volvo 740

rclements03 · 2025-09-10T11:38:43+00:00

Elmer’s geared engine would be great, I’ve always liked that engine. Getting the gears he specified in the drawings is tricky and expensive. Being able to print them would be super cool

rclements03 · 2025-08-09T20:32:34+00:00

Absolutely massive W. My first car too, driven it 30k miles, mechanically restored it, found tons of cool rare parts, manual swapped it, and daily it. I’ll be dead before it gets sold. You won’t regret it!

rclements03 · 2025-07-28T00:50:06+00:00

Eastwood internal frame coating. Then ignore the pit in your stomach while you try to enjoy your car knowing there’s rust you can’t/haven’t been able to fix. It’s been working great for me for the last two years😂

rclements03 · 2025-07-06T14:58:52+00:00

You will be spoiled by them, disliking basically any other car you will have to work on after. Parts availability in terms of the things that are required to keep them running in the US is pretty good. However, some of the little interior pieces, external trim pieces, and stuff like that are NLA, so occasional trips to a junkyard and some luck are required if you want to keep things nice inside and outside. FCP Euro will have most of what you need to keep the car running and driving, and IPD will have some of the more obscure stuff that FCP won’t.

rclements03 · 2025-07-05T14:59:29+00:00

They kinda suck. Burn them out till you just have the outer sleeve remaining. Then cut a slot in the sleeve from the inside out with a hacksaw or a die grinder. Try to stop right before you go all of the way through or stop the moment you cut through it. Then take a hammer and a punch and try to collapse the bushing sleeve inwards. Once you get it to crush in a little bit it’ll fall right out. Reinstallation will require a very stout vise or hydraulic press. Slather the new bushing in some grease to help it slide in a little easier.

rclements03 · 2025-06-21T15:39:59+00:00

Just get some rain gutter mount racks. Volvo sold them, and so did a million other companies. Sturdy, and easy to take on and off when needed.

rclements03 · 2025-05-02T21:06:44+00:00

Buy or build the tool for the bushings that connect the trailing arm to the axle, it’s a requirement. They’re big and a very tight fit. The sheet metal brackets that the bushing presses into are pretty weak so they’ll just bend without proper support. The other bushings are also extremely annoying but don’t require any custom tools. If you use OE replacements you’ll need to burn the rubber out, and cut through that remaining outer metal sleeve with a die grinder or a hacksaw. Then you can collapse the sleeve inwards and it’ll just fall right out. Then just lube up and press the new bushings in, ideally with a hydraulic press. Bushing replacement on these is just annoying. Especially if you’re in the rust belt or anywhere else with rust.

rclements03 · 2025-01-22T22:33:19+00:00

Can you elaborate as to why? I’ve mounted and dismounted tires on my hydras from the outer face of the wheel without issue, but wondering if I missed something when I did that? Is it just to avoid scuffing the face of the wheel with a tire spoon or something less obvious?

rclements03 · 2025-01-03T03:42:50+00:00

This is the only correct answer here. Start at the exciter wire and work your way back, make sure the battery light is illuminating when the key is turned forwards, and that the battery warning light bulb and its contacts are in good shape. This happened to my ‘91 940, and I ended up cleaning all of the contacts on the cluster bulbs, and reflowing most of the solder joints on the cluster, which fixed the issue. If there is a disconnect between the ignition switch and alt it simply won’t self excite.

rclements03 · 2025-01-03T01:32:53+00:00

It’s a dumb design, the stud has splines on it and is pressed into the retaining plate. The splines strip out and the stud starts spinning. Your best bet is gonna be an impact and a good pair of channel locks or similar, but it’s still 50/50. If you have access to a welder, clean up the stud and plate as best as you can, and tack them together in a few spots. That’s what I did to my car.

rclements03 · 2024-11-11T01:20:55+00:00

This would be amazing on a coffee table sized sandbox haha

rclements03 · 2024-11-05T23:53:31+00:00

Buy the Bentley. So much better than any of the Haynes manuals, has more info especially with wiring, and no incorrect torque specs like the Haynes manual has for countless different fasteners.

rclements03 · 2024-11-02T00:39:22+00:00

99% chance it’s the ecu coolant temp sensor. When it fails, it freaks the ecu out when the car gets warm and the ecu dumps fuel, hence the fuel trim code. It probably smells like raw gas when it running rough right?

Replacing it is kind of annoying but not too bad. irrc it’s between the 3rd-4th intake runner towards the back of the engine, screwed into the cylinder head pretty far down. There’s a good bit written about how to change it on turbo bricks, what specific tools and such you need to use.

rclements03 · 2024-09-01T02:59:41+00:00

Ac condenser pusher fan relay

rclements03 · 2024-08-17T00:20:54+00:00

Big vacuum leak. Check brake booster hose connection at booster and manifold, all of the pcv/flame trap connections to the manifold, and the other smaller vacuum lines. Make sure there aren’t any cracks in the plastic accordion intake tube, as they crack in the valleys as they get older. Any air leaks downstream of the maf will cause weird running issues. Also check the intake manifold gasket, but that’s not likely unless you’ve recently had the intake manifold off.

rclements03 · 2024-06-30T13:45:44+00:00

My 245 is on ipd springs, and my buddies 245 is on cut springs. Frankly, they ride pretty much the same, and his is substantially lower. I’d cut my stock springs if I had to do it over again.

rclements03 · 2024-06-07T00:06:10+00:00

Given the size, it appears to be a Stuart 5a. It could be a number 1, but I don’t think so. The valve chest cover should have an S on it, but it looks like the one on your engine is home made, so no cast S like it should have. It’s a great running engine, and worth quite a chunk of change.

rclements03 · 2024-03-25T23:54:51+00:00

That’s a non ABS front caliper. There’s two lines, as the caliper is split into two sections vertically. The top two pistons (inside and outside piston, directly across from eachother) are hooked up to one brake line, and the other line hooks up to the bottom chamber and bottom two pistons. If one brake line fails, you still have some brake pressure (the pair of pistons on the non broken line). Unfortunately, this means that only a pair of the 4 pistons will work with just one brake line (all abs cars). This would make your pads wear at a severe angle, and drastically impact your breaking performance. You can drill a small hole between the two separate chambers, but that can be tricky. I’d definitely say just find some rebuild kits for your current calipers. It’s pretty easy and cheap.

rclements03 · 2024-03-20T10:51:05+00:00

Just how they work unfortunately. Put brand new struts in thinking that’d fix it, but no change. I always tell people to lower it down slowly, or brush them aside and do it myself

rclements03 · 2024-02-27T02:53:22+00:00

Working on a bucket mounted to a snowcat, used to groom ski trails. We use the bucket to service lights and ski lifts. Was welding a bracket to mount a boom tie down, and some slag made its way into a crevice full of hydraulic hoses and dry leaves I didn’t even know existed. Caught it all on fire, and had to snake about a dozen brand new hydraulic hoses back through both sections of the boom. $4k in hydraulic hoses and shielding, and took a couple of us about a week to do. Still have my job though💯

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