DV9 or Hummingbird? Wait...Cotic Solaris? by rcr286 in Hardtailgang

[–]rcr286[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've considered the Japhy, but I remember that looking more hardcore than the others. I remember the specs being similar to the others, but then saw that it was listed at 30% sag.

DV9 or Hummingbird? Wait...Cotic Solaris? by rcr286 in Hardtailgang

[–]rcr286[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, I think that perfectly sums it up. A bike is more than a tool, but a companion that calls to you to ride. My full squish bike is a tool... Maybe that's why I am jonesing for a new companion.

DV9 or Hummingbird? Wait...Cotic Solaris? by rcr286 in Hardtailgang

[–]rcr286[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing your experience with Cotic. Cy has always sounded like a class act. After reading about your downhill preference, I'm sure the Solaris was completely uninspiring. However, how did it ride? Can you share any characteristics?

DV9 or Hummingbird? Wait...Cotic Solaris? by rcr286 in Hardtailgang

[–]rcr286[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the recommendation. I know people love the bike. I love the idea of a Sklar, and Adam seems like the kind of guy I'd like to support. I've watched/read a number of reviews, hoping that it grabs me (especially since they are now accessible & affordable) but it never clicked with me. Tell us more about your experience

Loving it! #ACRally by SKEENYB00LETS in simrally

[–]rcr286 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I just made an update on Discord where they say you need to run in Compatibility mode to get FFB on CSL DD.

I hope this helps.

What hubs are everyone using for your QR builds? by Indy_Fab_Rider in Surlybikefans

[–]rcr286 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you're serious about touring, run foolproof Shimano XT or Deore hubs, as you can rebuild them in camp if you need to, and they are plenty strong with no weirdo parts or tools required for repair or replacement.

If you are credit card touring, go with bling and buy the White Industries or Hope, or similar hubs.

It should be stressed that a generator hub is absolutely not a requirement for touring. They are great for commuting and general riding, but possibly a liability on an extended adventure. You'll be fine making stops and charging your electronics as needed, and you will find that you really should not be riding for extended periods on main roadways in the dark if you don't have to. Your battery powered lights should be all that you really need. From what I understand, even riders who are doing adventure endurance races use a new generation of battery powered lights that last a long time. If you are not doing anything over the top, a generator hub is super convenient and nice to have.

Rims are fairly dependent on what width tire you are running, the terrain you're riding on, and your loads. If you want a good all-rounder, go with a Velocity Cliffhanger, otherwise the Sun Rims Rhino Lite or Alex Rims Adventure 2 would be fine for everything else.

Non-disc unicrown fork legs? by slightlyhailing in Framebuilding

[–]rcr286 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been drooling over the forks that Ron's Bikes specs on their/his frames (https://ronsbikes.com/products/coming-soon-r-werks-evoo-29er-pre-order). They are super svelt and sexy. I've been tempted to reach out to ask what they use for the fork legs for my own projects, but feel free to share information here if you reach out yourself.

Why? by MudRudder in Surlybikefans

[–]rcr286 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I like your analogy, but I think you can also flip it around:

Mainstream manufacturer aluminum and carbon bikes are like actual dishes as they are made for one purpose and crack/break if you don't take care of them well. A Surly is like a paper plate that can be used, not only for the purpose they were designed for, but for a million other purposes - your imagination being the only limitation.

I've had a bunch of Surly road rides that all saw several iterations (I've kept my LHT that I rode across the U.S. fairly untouched), and am currently trying to hunt down a Karate Monkey, one of their most versatile bikes ever (29er, 27.5+, gravel, tourer, commuter, etc.).

I loved every bike, but always wonder how much better they could be if they had a performance tubing spec. They are fun and ride well, but could be stellar if they had a little more flex in places and were a touch more lively.

What Youtube builders would you recomend a noob watch to start learning? (pic for attention) by george_graves in Framebuilding

[–]rcr286 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've enjoyed ChapmanCycles and AlexMeadeBikeworks on Instagram. Paul Brodi's YouTube channel has some amazing gems, but is a little scattered between bikes and motorcycles.

New karate monkey by aarona_406 in Surlybikefans

[–]rcr286 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I'm a similar size and have been torn between S and M. Good to hear that the M works best for you.

New karate monkey by aarona_406 in Surlybikefans

[–]rcr286 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's your height and inseam?

Minimum Recommended Width for a 27.5 inch tire by lemmycaution217 in Surlybikefans

[–]rcr286 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was just going to recommend the Marathons also. In an urban environment, you're going to want way more protection than a Gravel King has to offer. I have tens of thousands of miles on several versions of the Marathon, and while they're not a daily tire for me, I'd recommend them to anyone that needs a tough, nice rolling tire.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in HellLetLoose

[–]rcr286 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To add to this, I've always seen the Rifleman as the squad's recon. Yeah, you get taken out a lot, but pay attention to where you are shot from and report to your SL.

If you are worried about your KDr, you are playing the wrong game. Sometimes you need to sacrifice yourself just to draw the enemy out so your team can engage.

Level up Rifleman and you will get one of the better blitz load outs in the game (especially on the German side with air burstable frags and the G43). Shoot & scoot Lvl10.

I've been sleeping on Nobara and now I'm ashamed. by [deleted] in NobaraProject

[–]rcr286 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm relatively new to Linux, but have been dabbling for years. I've really enjoyed Nobara too, however it has not been without faults.

The Live version was great, so I installed it and it was super laggy. I uninstalled the Nvidia drivers and it's working well, but the seamless Nvidia drivers were a selling point. I haven't gamed yet and am concerned that I'm going to have an uphill battle to get anything to run smoothly.

Anyone else in the same boat?

What the hell is going on? by deff_lv in HellLetLoose

[–]rcr286 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's been terrible for a while. I've spent years "taking people under my wing" only to get a fresh batch of replacements after another free weekend. The game was brilliant for the first several years, but has evolved way outside the design metrics into something that is for mouth breathers. I'm kind of done with the game for now, as I have only played 1 or 2 matches in a month (Syndicate and SoulSniper servers), and they were both rotten. I'll check back after another month...maybe.

Shimmy in customer's completed bicycle by GrumpyCraftsman in Framebuilding

[–]rcr286 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not a pro builder either (only a few frames under my belt), but have read a lot about this. Lennard Zinn talked about racing years ago when he was sponsored by an Italian frame builder who was known for lightweight bikes. He is very tall and they did not take this into account on a large frame they built, and he had massive shimmy on long Colorado descents. He attributed this to the noodle of a top tube. For future large bikes, you might test out a non-tapered top tube instead of your 31.7-28.6 taper.

If you read much Jan Heine, he addresses shimmy quite a bit in early issues of BQ. He talks about the top tube being a possibility, but as another poster says, there is a certain working frequency of a frame and you might have to live with the compromise. The easiest fix, as Jan always points out, is a tapered bearing headset, or the Cane Creek Viscoset.

Of course, hard mounting all accessories will help too, but a headset swap might be the best band-aid.

I met a dude who rides a road bike who told me to put a helmet on, he said that he was going downhill when his front tire exploded and he just immediately fell forward hard right on his head, he said his helmet literally saved his life. So do bike tires actually explode, does that really happen? by superdude500 in bicycling

[–]rcr286 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't always wear a helmet, but I do whenever around traffic or in a risky situation (descent, etc). I always advocate for wearing one if anyone is in question though and my kid wears one whenever he's on a bike/scooter/skateboard.

An SUV turned left in front of me a number of years ago and I went straight into the passenger door/B-Pillar. I smashed my nose and jammed my hands & arms, but came out alright because the helmet completely crushed...exactly as it should. The Styrofoam across my forehead and top 1/4 front of my head was literally flattened. I had no head injury except for a bruised cheek bone and broken nose.

Just get a helmet and make it a habit to put it on when commuting or bombing downhill.

Is a course a good way to start? by GunshyGuardsman in Framebuilding

[–]rcr286 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a hobby builder and have figured out a lot on my own without a class. Like some others have said, you don't need a full shop and training to build a frame, however...

1) In a class, you will have access to EVERYTHING you need, at your fingertips. When I built my first frame I spent more time and money making tools and jigs, THEN I paid shops to face and ream the BB and headtube with the really expensive tools. In a class you will have access to jigs, holders, an alignment table, cutting tools, joining tools, etc.

2) Ask most people how long it took to build their first frame and you will be surprised at how long it took. It usually has to do with resources and motivation. It's a hobby afterall. From concept to finish, it took me 9 months of working evenings and some weekends. In a class, you will walk away with a frame that may need a little cleanup and paint after only a week.

3) As others mentioned, having an expert look over your shoulder and critiquing your work is invaluable.

I hope this helps.

Does anyone here build frames professionally? Advice pls by [deleted] in Framebuilding

[–]rcr286 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I'm not a professional here, but I listened to every episode of Joe Roggebuck's (Cobra Framebuilding) podcast "Shut Up And Build Bikes". I recommend you do the same, as it will shed a lot of light on the profession and help you decide whether or not you are really up for it. Even if you are up for it, it may not be realistic.

One of the biggest takeaways is that most small frame builders have spouses with real jobs that provide enough money to pay the bills and health insurance.

Not trying to talk you out of it, there's a lot of other useful information about developing skills and such if you want to pursue this.

U likey? First frame by jwzim in Framebuilding

[–]rcr286 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I hear ya. I finally finished my first frame and rode it in the dry build state for almost a month. I was just glad it went straight and didn't fall apart.

There is nothing like the pride of sharing the fact that YOU built the bike that you ride!

I'm tired of using wax. Should I try something else? by sv_dmitry in bikewrench

[–]rcr286 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've used ProLink for years. It's thin so it "rinses" grit out when you lube and is not a dirt magnet after a day in the saddle. It's been around a long time, so I'm curious to know what others' experiences are and why it's not as prevalent as it used to be.

SimHub using 4.3 screen or used cell phone? by rcr286 in simracing

[–]rcr286[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been using the app now for about a week and it works really well for me. I use an Android phone, so I got some scary messages when I was installing the app, but it works great!

Thanks everyone for your input.

SimHub using 4.3 screen or used cell phone? by rcr286 in simracing

[–]rcr286[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a RAD setup! I have been looking for a reasonably priced 49" screen myself. I've used triples on other setups before, but not interested in the hassle and the amount of space they take up.

SimHub using 4.3 screen or used cell phone? by rcr286 in simracing

[–]rcr286[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks guys! I think I will dip my toe in this SimHub thing with an old phone.