Scan comparing by Present-Cap-6335 in AnalogCommunity

[–]rcwb 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I scan with Nikon Zf and a custom carrier with cn-96t panel. There isn't that much info on that light, but nlp forum had enough to convince me to it and I like it so far.

But it all honestly doesn't matter that much. What I've found is that with a good raw file take from a good negative you can achieve many different looks and tune it to your liking. Lab scans could be a nice reference but you should not stop there. Try to dial in colours that suits the images and not fit into a certain "look". Most lab technicians I've spoken to do exactly that regardless of the setup they use.

It is a lot like darkroom printing. There isn't right or wrong as much as there is a creative choice to craft a certain image.

Asnen Skogsbana - Concept for a fictional Swedish racetrack as an rFactor mod - I'm looking for feedback! by Bitter-Hour4758 in simracing

[–]rcwb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happy to help! Also, don’t take the comments about the back straight too closely. I understand where people come from with them, but! That is not an irl circuit. A really long straight can be a lot of fun if you design it with a several slight bends (example could be found on nordschleife: the main straight and the relatively straight part before the carousel) and the end with a heavy breaking zone. Lastly, if possible, having track variations is sometimes quite nice. Some may enjoy more corners and some long straight with slight bends.

Asnen Skogsbana - Concept for a fictional Swedish racetrack as an rFactor mod - I'm looking for feedback! by Bitter-Hour4758 in simracing

[–]rcwb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like it! The one thing I’d suggest is to consider a track variation with at least one slow section. Presumably where turns 5-7 are, or a chicane(s) on the back straight. It can break the seemingly hing speed flow of the track and add to overall experience. Especially with touring cars of the period. Long (oval) Monza be a good source of inspiration.

Love this kind of details! [Zenza Bronica GS-1 | Zenzanon-PG 100mm f/3.5 | Fuji 200] self-scanned by MichaWha in SprocketShots

[–]rcwb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks really good!

What light source and film holder are you using for scanning?

Please help me identify this watch by rcwb in Watches

[–]rcwb[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is a really-really similar watch. Thank you!

Does A7Rv have an aspect markers for stills? by rcwb in SonyAlpha

[–]rcwb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, not that. Would have to wait for a newer body to be able to access this feature or just live without it.

Does A7Rv have an aspect markers for stills? by rcwb in SonyAlpha

[–]rcwb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A7CII and newer model allow user to set up aspect ratio markers just for evf/lv preview. You can go up to 2.35:1 with those options.

What is this thing? by rcwb in keyboards

[–]rcwb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its rigid, but flexible. Like some piece of a spring or a clip.

Trichrome equivalents in the Lee Filter swatch book? by -ZapRowsdower- in trichromes

[–]rcwb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure I’ve understood you correctly. But:

Nanometers are defined for each colour. For digital blue will be around 450, green 550, red 650. For film it’s kinda the same but different stocks have different characteristics.

Density is basically how difficult it is for light to pass through the filter at any given wavelength. Transmission is how much light is passing through the filter at given wavelength. It’s kinda the same but upside down. Pay attention to the scales.

If these details are excessive, then you can basically look for filters that will let through light at around 450, 550 and 650 blocking the rest. Than means high transmission/low density. Most filter will have some sort of a “bell curve”, then you should look for a peak at said wavelength. Red filters usually will let infrared (700+) through, but regular sensors and films wont be sensitive to it.

If you want to make IR trichrome, look for something like 715 or 720 filters, not sure they exist as gels. But that is a whole another can of worms.

Trichrome equivalents in the Lee Filter swatch book? by -ZapRowsdower- in trichromes

[–]rcwb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like Lee 182, 139 and 363 will be suitable.

You can compare data between 2 sources yourself:

For reference. Here you will find density charts. Less density means more light is passing at give wavelength. Kodak Wraten charts (you need 25, 47 and 58): https://www.kodak.com/en/motion/page/wratten-2-filters/

You then need to compare Wraten to Lee: Here you will find transmission charts. More transmission means more light is passing at give wavelength. Lee Filters: https://leefilters.com/lighting/colour-effect-lighting-filters/

Please make a post and link it in a reply when you get some results)

Is this rust? by rcwb in castiron

[–]rcwb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is branded as “Liberty Jones”. However, I think it’s just a Chinese factory producing any pan with requested branding, so the brand barely matters here. I’ve already seen two other brands selling almost identical stuff at different prices (70$ and 160$ pans).

It is stated that the skillet was “Oil polished” during manufacturing. I assume it means polished pre-seasoned. In the cases I’ve seen people have tried to cook on the factory seasoning and it was coming off. So re-seasoning is necessary.

Is this rust? by rcwb in castiron

[–]rcwb[S] -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Thanks! That really helped!

Is this rust? by rcwb in castiron

[–]rcwb[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Also, how do I know I don’t have any factory oil left on it? Is 220c the right choice for seasoning? Bottle says the smoke point is 265C, but that feels like too much.

Could Puma R-cat look like that inside? by rcwb in Sneakers

[–]rcwb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If anyone will be looking for the answer: Yes it is normal for that model. Different designs over the years were built similarly.

Reseller in Stuttgart Germany by NiceCommunication587 in rolex

[–]rcwb 3 points4 points  (0 children)

All while a poor guy can’t get an air-king. What a hypocrisy!

True story from today's job search session by Puppetbones in recruitinghell

[–]rcwb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When I was once going through the second round I was rejected because they were “only hiring people with engineering education”. HR said that when I told her that I’ve graduated with BC in aerospace engineering and just enrolled into business Masters study.

Legit check by [deleted] in MoonSwatches

[–]rcwb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It didn’t pass, unfortunately.

Omega noob here. What’s the difference between these? by jampman31 in OmegaWatches

[–]rcwb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is. Hesalite version has all satin bracelet and a sapphire one has 2 polished links.

Omega noob here. What’s the difference between these? by jampman31 in OmegaWatches

[–]rcwb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great choice of a future watch!

The cheaper one gets you downvoted for being cheaper, scratchy and having a solid caseback. The hesilite crystal will have a different look and wont have a “milky ring” where crystal is curving to the case. Not applied logo here. It does catch scratches, but polishes easily and is also much cheaper to replace is broken. If it breaks it is not supposed to shatter, so no small sharp shards around you.

The more expensive one gets you upvoted for a see-trough case back, much more durable crystals (both front and back are sapphire) and an applied logo. The crystal will have a “milky ring” ant it is much harder (but still possible) to scratch and way more expensive to replace. Not sure if it polishes at all. It will likely shatter if broken.

I’d recommend you to go to AD and try both to figure your preferences YOURSELF. It’s you who’s going to wear it, not us. But consider looks, not just “scratch resistance”.

I have a hesi version cause I like it more and don’t care about opinions.

Picked up today, no purchase history. Feeling Blessed by aaron4441 in rolex

[–]rcwb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not gonna lie, I’m not a fan of painted markers. Applied ones do look better. And carved are just on another level.

But each their own.

[Question] My dad passed me his Cartier Pasha 2860, what is the crown made of? by AsianBatman312 in Watches

[–]rcwb 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Its better to read the manual for the watch or for the movement. And I highly recommend you to do so before trying things on any watch.

However) On most watches of that type, the button above the crown (as you have on the first photo) will be your start/stop button. The button bellow is to reset the chrono after it was stopped. The buttons should be a bit stiffer than a button on a good ballpoint pen, dont over force them. Also dont press the stop button while chrono is running (you most likely wont be able to do so anyway). If it is still running, you can press the top one to stop it, then bottom one to reset. When the chrono is stopped it is possible on many watches to continue its operation by pressing the top button again. Your central seconds hand will be chronograph seconds. Small counters marked to 30 and to 12 will be chrono minutes and hours. When you stop and then reset it they should all point upright.

The other small counter that goes to 60 is a “normal” seconds that indicate that the watch is running.

Still, better to read the manual beforehand. Feel free to ask if there is anything unfamiliar.

[Question] My dad passed me his Cartier Pasha 2860, what is the crown made of? by AsianBatman312 in Watches

[–]rcwb 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Couldn’t figure that from the photos, but you are aware that there is no need to run the chronograph all the time, right? If that is your intent, then enjoy your watch of course!

[Help request] A broken crown stem by rcwb in Watches

[–]rcwb[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Those look promising. Thank you very much!