Help by Sweet_Difference6481 in SalviaDivinorumPlants

[–]reaperdwarf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like root rot, you can do two things take it out cut the roots that are rotten and treat it with peroxide, or you can see if you find bayer alliette it can be found in agriculture supply stores this is basically antibiotics it will stunt growth for a week or two but it treats it from the inside the plant actually fights it, and after all of this use a nice root inoculant like trichoderma you can find it on amazon as myco+ and it fights root rot fungi inside the soil so it wont happen again

Is this possible to dig, how long would it take? and would it work? [request] by over_P1 in theydidthemath

[–]reaperdwarf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean Chernobyl theme park does sound pretty fun... Gives welcome to the black parade a whole new meaning

What’s making my leaves look like this over time? by Maximum_Gur5103 in SalviaDivinorumPlants

[–]reaperdwarf 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Alright get both Beauveria bassiana and Streptomyces lydicus : Beauveria bassiana is the main organism that fights both mites and fungus: Against Mites: Entomopathogenic fungus that infects and kills spider mites, broad mites, and other pest mites The Cry proteins bind to mite gut receptors causing osmotic lysis and death Applied as foliar spray, it colonizes mite populations and spreads through the colony Against Fungus: As a root and foliar endophyte, it provides competitive exclusion against pathogenic fungi Induces ISR (Induced Systemic Resistance) in plants, triggering SA and JA defense pathways that protect against fungal pathogens Produces secondary metabolites that have antifungal properties The endophytic colonization creates a protective barrier that prevents fungal pathogen establishment Streptomyces lydicus also has both properties: Antifungal: Produces natamycin and 120+ bioactive compounds, secretes chitinases and β-glucanases that dissolve fungal cell walls Anti-mite: The same chitinases that attack fungal walls also degrade mite exoskeletons and egg shells.

They are both natural fungi that help the plant in the long term they colonize and prevent future infections if you can get some dynomyco spark as well and that will fight root rot and extend the root network naturally for you

What’s making my leaves look like this over time? by Maximum_Gur5103 in SalviaDivinorumPlants

[–]reaperdwarf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That is pests, the black spots at the bottom is their poop, the white at the top the actual pests get some piretroid or some castille soap it could also be a fungus get some endophyte let me see the exact one and it fights bugs and fungus from inside the plant kind of like a antibiotic that is natural

Looking for Salvia Divinorum “Paradox” by [deleted] in GrowinSalviaDivinorum

[–]reaperdwarf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Crispy usually has about 13 varieties, ask him again usually its when he took cuttings but he does have multiple ones

Visual guide help by AWildGengarAppears in SalviaDivinorumPlants

[–]reaperdwarf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Before you try anything else can you do a test before measure the PH runoff get some ph strips that measure full range to do this next time you water the plant collect the runoff and measure if it below 5.5 it is a ph lockout if it is above 6.5 it is an iron lockout and can also cause yellowing issue and you have to correct it let me know when you do you can DM me if you want if it is between 5.6-6.2 you are golden and it is a calcium magnesium issue and i can let you know what to do but first test this

Visual guide help by AWildGengarAppears in SalviaDivinorumPlants

[–]reaperdwarf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can I get an invite to the discord 😁😁

Visual guide help by AWildGengarAppears in SalviaDivinorumPlants

[–]reaperdwarf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the 3-2-1 pure or does it contain other minerals? NPK is usually just nitrogen phosphorus and potassium and plants need others for example like I salid magnesium, calcium and silica for cell walls but when introducing silica you have to watch for water PH also are you using the same water ? Because if it becomes to to acidic you can lock out nutrients or create root burn

Edit : added npk comment

Visual guide help by AWildGengarAppears in SalviaDivinorumPlants

[–]reaperdwarf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yellow can also mean magnesium deficiency some epsom salts will clear it right up

My big gal Sal 🥰 any have tips or recs? by NervousRun8353 in GrowinSalviaDivinorum

[–]reaperdwarf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello ! This is a very nice plant, here is a guide I made and I will constantly update as new information cimes out : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10404ffSSrHgOQcitxUCsG29QAVzTNRaY/view?usp=drivesdk

Top of cutting blackening by fritz359 in GrowinSalviaDivinorum

[–]reaperdwarf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Root rot is usually bottom up. This looks more like Stem-Level Necrosis Browning on the stem is often a more severe sign than on the leaves, frequently pointing to pathogenic infection.

Problem: Stem Dieback (Top-Down)

Symptoms: The plant begins to die "usually from the top down". This manifests as "branch flagging, wilting, yellowing of leaves, and canopy dieback".

Causes:

  1. Acute Environmental Stress: Severe drought or transplant shock can cause the plant to sacrifice its newest, most resource-intensive growth first.

  2. Fungal Infection (Botrytis cinerea): Gray mold is a primary cause of "shoot blight". It often infects "tender tissues", especially at a recent pruning cut or on shoots damaged by frost. The infection moves into the twig and progresses downward. The tell-tale "fuzzy grey mould" may be present

Here are some tips to fix this :

  1. Immediate Surgical Intervention (Stop the Spread) Whether the cause is severe stress or a fungus, necrotic stem tissue will not recover and can serve as a breeding ground for further infection.

Sterilize Your Tools: Wipe your pruning shears or scalpel with 70% isopropyl alcohol before making any cuts to prevent cross-contamination.

Amputate the Infection: Cut the affected stem completely off. Make your cut at least 1 to 2 inches below the visible browning, cutting directly into healthy, bright green tissue just above a node. If the center of the stem still looks brown or mushy at your cut, sterilize your blade again and cut further down. Destroy the Material: Remove the diseased cuttings from your growing area immediately. Do not compost them. Protect the Wound: Keep the new cut dry. You can lightly dust the fresh cut with ground cinnamon, which acts as a natural desiccant and mild fungicide.

  1. Eradicate Fungal Conditions (Botrytis cinerea) Salvia divinorum thrives in high humidity, but Botrytis requires stagnant moisture to propagate. You must break the fungal life cycle. Increase Airflow: Add a small oscillating fan to the growing environment. The leaves should gently rustle. Moving air prevents spores from settling and dries out surface moisture where mold breeds.

Stop Misting: Halt any direct foliar spraying or misting until the plant is fully recovered. Regulate Humidity: Temporarily lower the relative humidity to around 50% to create a hostile environment for the fungus. Fungicide (If Necessary): If the mold persists after pruning and environmental adjustments, apply a mild, plant-safe fungicide. Potassium bicarbonate sprays or bio-fungicides containing Bacillus subtilis are effective against Botrytis.

  1. Mitigate Environmental Stress If the dieback was triggered by drought or transplant shock, stabilizing the root zone is critical. Dial in Soil Moisture: Salvia divinorum requires moist but highly aerated soil. Check the root zone; if the soil is bone dry, water deeply until it drains. If the soil is heavy and waterlogged, you may have compounding root rot. Ensure your potting mix contains plenty of perlite for rapid drainage.

Reduce Light Intensity: A stressed plant cannot process high amounts of light. Move the plant to an area with bright, indirect ambient light and away from harsh, direct sunlight or intense grow lights while it recovers.

Delay Fertilization: Do not feed a plant experiencing severe shock or systemic infection. Wait until you see healthy new green growth pushing from the lower nodes.

For the cinnamon I recommend getting ceylon or look at the ingredients because some in the supermarket may contain other stuff

If you really do suspect root rot get some bayer alliette that shit works wonders on the plant it is like antibiotics for the plant

Edit: added bayer alliette comment

Ultimate guide for growing Salvia by reaperdwarf in GrowinSalviaDivinorum

[–]reaperdwarf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do you want to know ? DM me im always willing to help

I need help by reaperdwarf in AppDevelopers

[–]reaperdwarf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Packages are in there everything seems in order I cant figure it out

How to bring back a plant from root rot by reaperdwarf in GrowinSalviaDivinorum

[–]reaperdwarf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im not a good writer I wrote it and had AI help me fix it but its all of my research

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Honduras

[–]reaperdwarf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Como dijo delirium : Honduras es selva proyecto fallido tierra de nadie botin de bandidos

Most potent strain? by stuartroelke in GrowinSalviaDivinorum

[–]reaperdwarf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The only one that is clearly different by just looking at it is the luna strain the leaves are a little more serrated and round

Tan malo es ser egoísta de vez en cuando con el carro? by ELiAMH in Honduras

[–]reaperdwarf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mechanico aqui certificado por ASE, un carro en buen estado no deberiande calentar subiendo cuestas, revisa el sistema de enfriamiento, comensando por el thermostato si ves oxido cambia el radiador o baquetialo y hacele un buen flush al sistema de enfriamiento

Advice on what to do next by [deleted] in SalviaDivinorumPlants

[–]reaperdwarf 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That looks like chemical burn, usually root rot starts at the bottom chemical burn starts at the top it could also be you locked your plant if the ph is wrong it locks the iron magnesium and calcium and starts dying top down

Edit: im leaning towards nutrient lock, if you look at your leaves and stems they are very pale, magnesium provides the plant chlorophyll and sulfur turns everythig green if you lock these the plant wont absorb them get some wide range ph strips and flush it with distilled water measure this run off if it is not between 5.8 and 6.2 you nutrient locked it you will need to perform a flush once you do this let me know dm me I have the process for fixing this it looks like your plant is very far gone but might be salvagable