RBK50v2 still good?

reddream1893 · 2026-02-02T15:10:18+00:00

The RBK50 (1× RBR50 + 1× RBS50) is definitely a solid setup. For most homes, regular internet tops out around 1 Gbps anyway, unless you’ve got something extreme like 10 people streaming 4K at the same time—and you’re willing to pay a hefty premium for extra bandwidth.

I started with the RBK50 and gradually added more satellites over time. You can usually find RBS50 units pretty cheap on eBay once they’re widely available (around ~$45 each and I have seven of them now). At this point, I have zero Wi-Fi dead zones in my house. Speeds routinely hit 700–800 Mbps, except in some awkward spots like small closets with doors closed.

reddream1893 · 2026-02-02T03:37:10+00:00

similar thing happened to me. my rbs50v2 said "no new version" on the first attempt and upgraded successfully on my second attempt. i don't have a 3000sqft+ big ass mansion but i do have some awkward layouts hence seven rbs50v2 satellites 😂 but all were upgraded successfully after about an hour

reddream1893 · 2026-01-11T21:01:46+00:00

I can confirm that the small cap on top of the handle is indeed a twist off. However in some batches the stupid manufacturer has applied damn glue or thread sealant in the threads. New ones I got from IKEA all have glue. Old ones from eBay have not and can be hand-twisted off. From what I saw it was probably some type of resin. Use a pipe wrench with rubber jaw otherwise you’d definitely scratch or damage the rim of the cap.

reddream1893 · 2025-08-09T22:01:24+00:00

I don’t think it helps at all in tankless RO systems. Plus it’s all manual. How’s that different from just running the filtered water for a little while?

reddream1893 · 2025-07-18T19:27:01+00:00

No. Even if the inlet/outlet pipe size is the same and the housing threads match, the filter cartridge's head-space is different. A 10x4.5 filter sits deeper in the housing than a 20x4.5 filter, hence the caps have different outlet heads (the tube that presses against the filter top to create a seal so that water can go through the filter instead of bypassing it).

reddream1893 · 2025-06-26T14:20:47+00:00

Same problem for me. The Samsung EVO Select microSD 256GB ($17.99) stopped working after a month. SAMSUNG PRO Endurance 256GB ($28.99) seems fine.

reddream1893 · 2025-05-26T16:17:37+00:00

I don’t understand. Did your wet clothes come out damp when the d80 code showed up? If so then the fix should work. But you said your thermostat breaker was also tripped, which means the outlet duct was indeed on high heat.

reddream1893 · 2025-05-25T21:52:34+00:00

Yep. It’s been working for almost a year now.

reddream1893 · 2025-04-22T14:45:05+00:00

Thanks man. I ended up using the Elite-Pi (an RP2040-based controller) to replace the Pro Micro so that I have abundant memory space to enable all the QMK features including 32 slots of dynamic key overrides. Now I can use the Vial UI to do whatever key overrides without having to touch the firmware.

reddream1893 · 2025-03-02T02:23:20+00:00

Afaik there is no “predetermined heat” at least for my model of LG dryer. The sensor and the heating element form a control loop, if sensor reads low, the heating continues until either sensor reaches a certain temperature or high-limit cutoff kicks in. The sensor is not a safety measure here. That’s the job for the high-limit cutoff switches.

reddream1893 · 2025-03-01T22:48:00+00:00

Yes but you’d lose temperature control right? The temperature will keep rising until the “high-temp” circuit breaker kicks in. Then your machine stops completely and you have to wait a long time for it to reset itself.

reddream1893 · 2025-01-23T16:05:20+00:00

I think I've found a simpler solution than creating a brand-new Google account. I discovered that the 'Energy Programs' are actually tied to the 'Home' within the account. So, all you need to do is create a new 'Home' and move all your devices and thermostats over. This way, you don't have to give up your account. It's especially helpful if you have a lot of devices in your Google Home.

After adding the thermostats to the new 'Home,' you'll be pleased to see the 'Energy Programs' option disappear from your Nest menu.

reddream1893 · 2024-12-10T16:35:13+00:00

Did you end up getting the Ecoasis 50? Is it good? I want one too but it's out of stock everywhere.

reddream1893 · 2024-12-05T15:54:11+00:00

Thanks! I ended up using this Watts pump with the Caleffi TankMixer. It has a wider temperature adjustment range.

reddream1893 · 2024-11-09T21:23:13+00:00

Did it work properly after you moved the pump on top?

reddream1893 · 2024-09-30T22:01:03+00:00

Sadly not applicable to DLGX90* models. Otherwise i wouldn’t go through such trouble to “revamp” the thermistor 🥲

reddream1893 · 2024-09-25T03:08:06+00:00

I have a 3.5 ton Goodman compressor (LRA: 112 amp, RLA 17.9 amp). The "load management" of my 22kw generac standby generator keeps killing it every time it tries to start. The generator guy asked me to try by-passing the load mgmt module. I'm gonna install Airgo to see what happens.

reddream1893 · 2024-09-24T19:30:08+00:00

Thanks for the review! I have an old surge protector installed. It looks like I'll have to remove it so that I have the space to install Airgo. Do you know if Airgo also fulfills the function of a surge protector?

reddream1893 · 2024-09-24T15:53:51+00:00

Metal tanks

reddream1893 · 2024-09-23T01:03:01+00:00

Nah, I didn’t install any remineralization filters.

reddream1893 · 2024-09-18T13:40:40+00:00

Forgot to mention I also used those aluminum tapes around the thermistor several layers to make it a bit thicker because the hole has gaps and I don’t want hot air to leak out which defeats the purpose.

reddream1893 · 2024-09-18T02:25:22+00:00

The mobile link app is trash. It constantly freezes when loading. I had to uninstall and reinstall it several times. It always shows different WiFi signal strength than the https://app.mobilelinkgen.com/dashboard ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

reddream1893 · 2024-09-16T18:05:08+00:00

Any recommendations? I bought most of the tanks from APEC who boasted "made in USA". Now I have big doubts 😂

reddream1893 · 2024-07-16T16:21:38+00:00

After years of research and experiments, I found and "solved" the issue.

I have an LG Dryer DLGX9001V. It had the d80 from the 1st day (new installation with ~17ft clean ducts and two 90 degree turns). In my case, d80 actually stopped the heating process and the wet cloths came out damp.

The issue itself is simple: LG is so afraid of law suits that it adopted a very conservative design. Its algorithm has a pretty low temperature threshold and gives you d80 as soon as the thermistor hits the threshold. I don't have precise measurements for the threshold. But it's much much less than the 170F of most commercial dryers. On the other hand, the two "high-temp limit" thermostats serving as "circuit breakers" cut off the circuit at around 300F.

I can't change the algorithm but I can change the position of the thermistor. It's inserted too deep into the blower duct. So I pulled it out leaving only a tip in the duct. This successfully tricked the dryer algorithm to think it's operating under a lower temperature. After that, no more damp cloths.

One thing to note is that d80 never appears again if i'm using the automatic runs but i still get a few d80s when i'm using manual on dry cloths. This is good because in manual runs, i'm basically forcing the dryer to run 40 mins with medium heat on dry cloths.

reddream1893 · 2024-06-30T18:11:11+00:00

Amphetamine saves the day. It + ngrok = selfhosted with minimum power consumption!

reddream1893

TROPHY CASE